[Ace23]

I've had the resistor installed for about 2 weeks and haven't noticed any issues, but I do ride almost every day.

 

[Delurker]

Does anyone know how long I need to run the bike before expecting the CEL to go away once a condition is fixed? I pulled the resistor out for the sake of my battery and put the minimal amount of the switch there (see pics below). I started the bike - ran fine, no CEL. I disconnected the plug and started the bike, instant CEL. Still lit after I plugged it back in but I'm pretty sure it will take some "no error condition" cycles to clear.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Does anyone know how long I need to run the bike before expecting the CEL to go away once a condition is fixed? I pulled the resistor out for the sake of my battery and put the minimal amount of the switch there (see pics below). I started the bike - ran fine, no CEL. I disconnected the plug and started the bike, instant CEL. Still lit after I plugged it back in but I'm pretty sure it will take some "no error condition" cycles to clear.

AFAIK unless you get a Kawasaki dealer to plug into the Kawasaki diagnostics system (KDS) plug at the rear of the bike or you flash your ECU using software that has the ability to do same then you have to do the riding sequence that is mentioned on here somewhere in another thread. 'clearing error codes' maybe. I don't have time to search at the mo sorry.

 

[Boat]

AFAIK unless you get a Kawasaki dealer to plug into the Kawasaki diagnostics system (KDS) plug at the rear of the bike or you flash your ECU using software that has the ability to do same then you have to do the riding sequence that is mentioned on here somewhere in another thread. 'clearing error codes' maybe. I don't have time to search at the mo sorry.

Is this the one?

 

[Delurker]

I need the Service Code Erasing procedure or the one Kiwi mentioned, which entails some number of start/drive/warm up/whatever.

Edit note: Found it.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

I need the Service Code Erasing procedure or the one Kiwi mentioned, which entails some number of start/drive/warm up/whatever.

Edit note: Found it.

That's it. It's a pain in the arse to perform and you have to be really careful with your times but it does work. Let us know how you get on.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Is this the one?

View attachment 8759

In a word - No. :wink:

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Does anyone know how long I need to run the bike before expecting the CEL to go away once a condition is fixed? I pulled the resistor out for the sake of my battery and put the minimal amount of the switch there (see pics below). I started the bike - ran fine, no CEL. I disconnected the plug and started the bike, instant CEL. Still lit after I plugged it back in but I'm pretty sure it will take some "no error condition" cycles to clear.

That looks nice and neat. I was able to clear the Evap canister error code using the Woolich Software but not the PAIR valve even though there was a check box there for it. Kinda odd.
I may look at raiding the appropriate bits off the PAIR valve and do the same as what you've done here.

 

[Ace23]

I've had the resistor installed for about 2 weeks and haven't noticed any issues, but I do ride almost every day.

Update, it's been about 3 months and I haven't had any issues with the battery after installing the resistor in place of the EVAP system.

 

[yarddog]

does every model 400 have an evap system? in years past, only California bikes had them in the United States

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Update, it's been about 3 months and I haven't had any issues with the battery after installing the resistor in place of the EVAP system.

Cool, did you use the one from the block off kit (Spears?) or just one from an electrical shop?

 

[Jkoby27]

does every model 400 have an evap system? in years past, only California bikes had them in the United States

I am also wondering this question?

 

[yarddog]

I don’t think my bike has it, but I may have overlooked it. I’d had a few shots of bourbon by then so who knows.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

I don’t think my bike has it, but I may have overlooked it. I’d had a few shots of bourbon by then so who knows.

Have a peek inside the left hand fairing between rounds. It's near the front just below the fuel tank, quite a big box, cant miss it unless your vision is starting to blurr Lol.

 

[JFMNINJA400]

I am in New York, the east coast, and I have the EVAP canister. I just looked and like Kiwi said, you can’t miss it.
Left side of the bike, below the gas tank, you can see it with the fairing on. I will look into getting rid of it in the off season, which is here. :crying:

 

[Ace23]

Cool, did you use the one from the block off kit (Spears?) or just one from an electrical shop?

I used a generic 680 ohm half watt resistor like kwik rider suggested.

 

[Jkoby27]

@yarddog I have been looking into this more and I found that Spears racing makes a bracket to relocate the voltage regulator where the evap canister is located. Seems like a good idea to protect the voltage regulator and move it to a safer spot it won’t get damaged in a wreck. Here is the link.

https://www.spearsenterprises.com/p...htweight-aluminum-voltage-regulator-re-locator-kawasaki-ninja-ex-400-2018-2019/

 

[N4Fun]

Since I removed my EVAP and plugged the hose to the tank I've had a good amount of vacuum created in the tank, it's very noticeable when I open the gas cap to add gas. I have to get my fingernails under the edge of cap to pry it open. So I bought one way breather valves for dirt bike gas caps and replaced the plug in the hose with it. When I opened the hose it took a while for it to equalize pressure in the tank. See pics below. I did test if the one way function actually worked with a syringe and on these cheap valves it did not, water squirted right out of the vent holes. My feeling is that the system is built so little or no gas actually gets out through the vent, they wouldn't want fuel in the EVAP canister I would think. So I went ahead and installed and I'll see how it goes. At least I don't have to worry about fuel starvation.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Since I removed my EVAP and plugged the hose to the tank I've had a good amount of vacuum created in the tank, it's very noticeable when I open the gas cap to add gas. I have to get my fingernails under the edge of cap to pry it open. So I bought one way breather valves for dirt bike gas caps and replaced the plug in the hose with it. When I opened the hose it took a while for it to equalize pressure in the tank. See pics below. I did test if the one way function actually worked with a syringe and on these cheap valves it did not, water squirted right out of the vent holes. My feeling is that the system is built so little or no gas actually gets out through the vent, they wouldn't want fuel in the EVAP canister I would think. So I went ahead and installed and I'll see how it goes. At least I don't have to worry about fuel starvation.

There's no need to plug the hose to the tank. That will possibly be why your getting increased vacuum pressure in there. I left mine open and I've not had any issues.

 

[N4Fun]

There's no need to plug the hose to the tank. That will possibly be why your getting increased vacuum pressure in there. I left mine open and I've not had any issues.

In that case I paid $6 for a pretty red ornament to hang off my hose ?