[stikflote]

Thankyou Mr Mike,
will now have look on my bike,
keith

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Thankyou Mr Mike,
will now have look on my bike,
keith

UK models are Euro 4 compliant so you will have one.

 

[Doc-Ram]

Tried this today, with the intention of also taking care of the error code.
With just the removal of the left side fairing, I ended up leaving the purge line connected to the three-way joiner but removed and plugged it at the cannister end. This was because it looks like you can't access the joiner unless you have the tank and airbox off..

To prevent the error code, take a 680 ohm half watt resistor, and cut the legs so they're about 20 mm long. The legs can then be bent around and pushed into the purge valve socket. The resistor legs are a nice fit into the socket pins and should go in about a centimeter or so.

Job done, no purge valve error code :devil:

nice work....will give this a shot today.

Any similar hack for ABS plug? FTECU makes a plug but that's $250 :surprise:

 

[kwik rider]

I haven't done anything as yet to bypass the abs system sorry. That price eek, ridiculous!! But the evap resistor trick works well.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

I haven't done anything as yet to bypass the abs system sorry. That price eek, ridiculous!! But the evap resistor trick works well.

Did you remove your PAIR (air injection) valve too? I think yourself or someone posted what size resistor it requires. I know it's not 22ohm as that didnt work for me, just made my battery go flat!

 

[Doc-Ram]

I haven't done anything as yet to bypass the abs system sorry. That price eek, ridiculous!! But the evap resistor trick works well.

Yeah, bought resistor yesterday, will wire it in today.

Did you remove your PAIR (air injection) valve too? I think yourself or someone posted what size resistor it requires. I know it's not 22ohm as that didnt work for me, just made my battery go flat!

TST industries block off plates kit comes with the resistor/connector already, I used that.

Unfortunately, I removed the dash during bodywork install, and left the switch on and drained the battery. I'll wire in the resistor for Evap canister today and bump start and check for codes (hope no more codes).

 

[kwik rider]

Did you remove your PAIR (air injection) valve too? I think yourself or someone posted what size resistor it requires. I know it's not 22ohm as that didnt work for me, just made my battery go flat!

Yes I did that at a later stage, and yes I used the same value (680 ohms) resistor. I commented when you were having flat battery issues that 22 ohms would be too low a resistance and was probably giving the ECU I/O (input/output) logic a hard time -causing a 'lock' or 'race state' condition :sad:

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Yes I did that at a later stage, and yes I used the same value (680 ohms) resistor. I commented when you were having flat battery issues that 22 ohms would be too low a resistance and was probably giving the ECU I/O (input/output) logic a hard time -causing a 'lock' or 'race state' condition :sad:

Thanks, I will get on to that tomorrow as I've got the day off.
I've got a shocking memory but I do remember now you sorting me out regarding the 22 ohm resistor kerfuffle. It did get rid of the error code but opened another whole can of worms.

 

[b0Xcrash]

Yes I did that at a later stage, and yes I used the same value (680 ohms) resistor. I commented when you were having flat battery issues that 22 ohms would be too low a resistance and was probably giving the ECU I/O (input/output) logic a hard time -causing a 'lock' or 'race state' condition :sad:

Nice, so the same 680 ohm 1/2 watt resistor works on the AIS as well as the evap system without pulling down the battery??

 

[kwik rider]

Yes, worked fine for me.

 

[b0Xcrash]

Yes, worked fine for me.

Sweet thanks!
I going to make a resistor up for each system and remove all that junk :grin:

 

[Delurker]

Just pulled the canister off...do I need to plug the nipple on the tank, or do I leave it open to vent to atmosphere?

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Just pulled the canister off...do I need to plug the nipple on the tank, or do I leave it open to vent to atmosphere?

Leave it open to pollute the planet, you naughty person you. :smile_big:

 

[Delurker]

Thanks! Wish I would have asked *before* I let the tank (with that nipple plugged) sit on the floor of my garage with the sun hitting it through the open door (was hot) until pressure built and it started leaking fuel in a puddle on the floor.

 

[Delurker]

Dragging this one back out - I didn't ride for a week or two while I was traveling/waiting for parts and my battery was dead when I went to ride yesterday. I'm guessing the circuit stays open with the ignition off and the solenoid plugged in, but with the resistor in, it completes the circuit so the resistor is constantly dissipating all the battery's charge as heat over time. I removed the solenoid from the canister and disassembled the solenoid itself, I see if it's enough when plugged in to still avoid the light - if not, I'll reassemble at least the solenoid part, which should be enough.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Dragging this one back out - I didn't ride for a week or two while I was traveling/waiting for parts and my battery was dead when I went to ride yesterday. I'm guessing the circuit stays open with the ignition off and the solenoid plugged in, but with the resistor in, it completes the circuit so the resistor is constantly dissipating all the battery's charge as heat over time. I removed the solenoid from the canister and disassembled the solenoid itself, I see if it's enough when plugged in to still avoid the light - if not, I'll reassemble at least the solenoid part, which should be enough.

Well I'm glad I'm not the only one who has had this issue. I've tried two different types of resistor now with no luck so I've just gone back to ignoring the light which is going to be on anyways because of the gearing change.
Man bikes are getting complicated these days. Doesn't encourage modding! :grin:

 

[b0Xcrash]

Well I'm glad I'm not the only one who has had this issue. I've tried two different types of resistor now with no luck so I've just gone back to ignoring the light which is going to be on anyways because of the gearing change.
Man bikes are getting complicated these days. Doesn't encourage modding! :grin:

Thank you to both of you, I bought the resistors, and I saw Kiwi had an issue and now another so yeah, sorry you guys were the guinea pigs, but I am holding out until there is a better solution.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

TST industries block off plates kit comes with the resistor/connector already, I used that.

Did this work for you with no battery flattening issues? I'm wondering what the resistance value is of that TST plug.

 

[Delurker]

Did this work for you with no battery flattening issues? I'm wondering what the resistance value is of that TST plug.

I measured 463 Ohm.

 

[s.sirapol]

Hi everyone

I'm from Thailand.

I remove it already. If u don't push the resistor ( 1kohm 2watt recommend ).
The check engine light will be show and the engine power will be drop a little bit.