[Delurker]

Just pulled the canister off...do I need to plug the nipple on the tank, or do I leave it open to vent to atmosphere?

 

[Delurker]

Thanks! Wish I would have asked *before* I let the tank (with that nipple plugged) sit on the floor of my garage with the sun hitting it through the open door (was hot) until pressure built and it started leaking fuel in a puddle on the floor.

 

[Delurker]

Dragging this one back out - I didn't ride for a week or two while I was traveling/waiting for parts and my battery was dead when I went to ride yesterday. I'm guessing the circuit stays open with the ignition off and the solenoid plugged in, but with the resistor in, it completes the circuit so the resistor is constantly dissipating all the battery's charge as heat over time. I removed the solenoid from the canister and disassembled the solenoid itself, I see if it's enough when plugged in to still avoid the light - if not, I'll reassemble at least the solenoid part, which should be enough.

 

[Delurker]

Did this work for you with no battery flattening issues? I'm wondering what the resistance value is of that TST plug.

I measured 463 Ohm.

 

[Delurker]

Does anyone know how long I need to run the bike before expecting the CEL to go away once a condition is fixed? I pulled the resistor out for the sake of my battery and put the minimal amount of the switch there (see pics below). I started the bike - ran fine, no CEL. I disconnected the plug and started the bike, instant CEL. Still lit after I plugged it back in but I'm pretty sure it will take some "no error condition" cycles to clear.

 

[Delurker]

I need the Service Code Erasing procedure or the one Kiwi mentioned, which entails some number of start/drive/warm up/whatever.

Edit note: Found it.

 

[Delurker]

I’d remove the valve or replace it with a long hose if you want something there, because I’m pretty sure it needs to breathe both ways. I left a cap over that little nipple on the tank while I was doing some tank-off work - the sun coming in through my open garage door hitting the tank on the floor heated it enough to build pressure with nowhere for it to go. The result was a big pool of fuel on my garage floor.

 

[Delurker]

Since this thread has been resurrected, quick PSA for anyone reading it and worrying if replacing the evap purge valve with a resistor is going to drain their battery, I found the actual cause of my battery drainage a while back and fixed it.

My Innovv K2 dash cam came with a power converter that was drawing current even with the ignition off (and even with the park shock feature disabled). They went through two iterations of updates to the converter, but the real fix was to wire a relay into the circuit to cut battery power to the converter 10 seconds after the acc circuit lost power (i.e. key off). This allows the last file to finish being written, but stopped the power drain. My bike sat weeks during this past winter and no batter drainage issues since I installed a relay.

 

[Delurker]

Isn't that the same thing that TST sells?

View attachment 15904

That’s for the PAIR valve, not the Evap canister valve.