[Kiwi Rider]

Hi Kiwi,

Just curious, How much of a weight savings is that?

Great question! 715 grams or 1.58 lbs.

Did it throw a code from unhooking that switch? If it does, I am sure that can be removed through the ecu, or with a resistor, like is done with Kleen system removal.

Yep it brought up code 3A which is Purge valve malfunction, wiring open or short (Equipped Models)

So now I have two codes showing! Hoping to get all that cleared out with the re-flash.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

What are the benefits?

Probably none other than reduced weight.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

This is a real interesting information and it means that Kwaki did a hard work to reduce the weight wherever they can.
With my guess of weight savings I've been a little bit off the track when I'd think the EVAP-System from the N400 has the same weight like the one from my bike (which weights around 1000 grams more) - I won't compare anymore...

That technology, like ABS units etc, just seems to be getting lighter and more compact with each model.
A good friend of mine has just bought one of the new Ducati V4 Panigale. I was looking at his EVAP canister on the wkd and it was even smaller than the N400 unit and probably lighter.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Tried this today, with the intention of also taking care of the error code.
With just the removal of the left side fairing, I ended up leaving the purge line connected to the three-way joiner but removed and plugged it at the cannister end. This was because it looks like you can't access the joiner unless you have the tank and airbox off..

To prevent the error code, take a 680 ohm half watt resistor, and cut the legs so they're about 20 mm long. The legs can then be bent around and pushed into the purge valve socket. The resistor legs are a nice fit into the socket pins and should go in about a centimeter or so.

Job done, no purge valve error code :devil:

:sigh:

Nice work mate. Yeah my auto electrician friend said I could add a resistor to eliminate the error code but I wanted it all gone. I've got two other error codes showing anyways.

It's good to know what size ohm resistor is required for this mod though.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

hey kiwi, I just noticed today my "check engine light" is on, All I did was remove the evap system, is your check engine light on after removing your evap canister?

Yep, it's because you have an open circuit where you disconnected the plug. If it bothers you then you can do what kwik rider did below:

To prevent the error code, take a 680 ohm half watt resistor, and cut the legs so they're about 20 mm long. The legs can then be bent around and pushed into the purge valve socket. The resistor legs are a nice fit into the socket pins and should go in about a centimeter or so.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

LOL good idea Kiwi or here's a even better one, just use my flash tool? once again kiwi you have tricked me, I went to pull the evap off only to notice you need to take the fuel tank and air filter box off in order to get to the purge line, so I got lazy and just put the 8mm bolt that was on the canister housing into the line that connects to the 3 way purge connection, you think this will do?

Ha, yeah I'm not big on the small details :grin:
Yep that 8mm bolt will be just fine and dandy. Maybe add some sealant as well on the thread like gasket goo.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Thankyou Mr Mike,
will now have look on my bike,
keith

UK models are Euro 4 compliant so you will have one.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

I haven't done anything as yet to bypass the abs system sorry. That price eek, ridiculous!! But the evap resistor trick works well.

Did you remove your PAIR (air injection) valve too? I think yourself or someone posted what size resistor it requires. I know it's not 22ohm as that didnt work for me, just made my battery go flat!

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Yes I did that at a later stage, and yes I used the same value (680 ohms) resistor. I commented when you were having flat battery issues that 22 ohms would be too low a resistance and was probably giving the ECU I/O (input/output) logic a hard time -causing a 'lock' or 'race state' condition :sad:

Thanks, I will get on to that tomorrow as I've got the day off.
I've got a shocking memory but I do remember now you sorting me out regarding the 22 ohm resistor kerfuffle. It did get rid of the error code but opened another whole can of worms.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Just pulled the canister off...do I need to plug the nipple on the tank, or do I leave it open to vent to atmosphere?

Leave it open to pollute the planet, you naughty person you. :smile_big:

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Dragging this one back out - I didn't ride for a week or two while I was traveling/waiting for parts and my battery was dead when I went to ride yesterday. I'm guessing the circuit stays open with the ignition off and the solenoid plugged in, but with the resistor in, it completes the circuit so the resistor is constantly dissipating all the battery's charge as heat over time. I removed the solenoid from the canister and disassembled the solenoid itself, I see if it's enough when plugged in to still avoid the light - if not, I'll reassemble at least the solenoid part, which should be enough.

Well I'm glad I'm not the only one who has had this issue. I've tried two different types of resistor now with no luck so I've just gone back to ignoring the light which is going to be on anyways because of the gearing change.
Man bikes are getting complicated these days. Doesn't encourage modding! :grin:

 

[Kiwi Rider]

TST industries block off plates kit comes with the resistor/connector already, I used that.

Did this work for you with no battery flattening issues? I'm wondering what the resistance value is of that TST plug.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Does anyone know how long I need to run the bike before expecting the CEL to go away once a condition is fixed? I pulled the resistor out for the sake of my battery and put the minimal amount of the switch there (see pics below). I started the bike - ran fine, no CEL. I disconnected the plug and started the bike, instant CEL. Still lit after I plugged it back in but I'm pretty sure it will take some "no error condition" cycles to clear.

AFAIK unless you get a Kawasaki dealer to plug into the Kawasaki diagnostics system (KDS) plug at the rear of the bike or you flash your ECU using software that has the ability to do same then you have to do the riding sequence that is mentioned on here somewhere in another thread. 'clearing error codes' maybe. I don't have time to search at the mo sorry.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

I need the Service Code Erasing procedure or the one Kiwi mentioned, which entails some number of start/drive/warm up/whatever.

Edit note: Found it.

That's it. It's a pain in the arse to perform and you have to be really careful with your times but it does work. Let us know how you get on.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Is this the one?

View attachment 8759

In a word - No. :wink:

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Does anyone know how long I need to run the bike before expecting the CEL to go away once a condition is fixed? I pulled the resistor out for the sake of my battery and put the minimal amount of the switch there (see pics below). I started the bike - ran fine, no CEL. I disconnected the plug and started the bike, instant CEL. Still lit after I plugged it back in but I'm pretty sure it will take some "no error condition" cycles to clear.

That looks nice and neat. I was able to clear the Evap canister error code using the Woolich Software but not the PAIR valve even though there was a check box there for it. Kinda odd.
I may look at raiding the appropriate bits off the PAIR valve and do the same as what you've done here.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Update, it's been about 3 months and I haven't had any issues with the battery after installing the resistor in place of the EVAP system.

Cool, did you use the one from the block off kit (Spears?) or just one from an electrical shop?

 

[Kiwi Rider]

I don’t think my bike has it, but I may have overlooked it. I’d had a few shots of bourbon by then so who knows.

Have a peek inside the left hand fairing between rounds. It's near the front just below the fuel tank, quite a big box, cant miss it unless your vision is starting to blurr Lol.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Since I removed my EVAP and plugged the hose to the tank I've had a good amount of vacuum created in the tank, it's very noticeable when I open the gas cap to add gas. I have to get my fingernails under the edge of cap to pry it open. So I bought one way breather valves for dirt bike gas caps and replaced the plug in the hose with it. When I opened the hose it took a while for it to equalize pressure in the tank. See pics below. I did test if the one way function actually worked with a syringe and on these cheap valves it did not, water squirted right out of the vent holes. My feeling is that the system is built so little or no gas actually gets out through the vent, they wouldn't want fuel in the EVAP canister I would think. So I went ahead and installed and I'll see how it goes. At least I don't have to worry about fuel starvation.

There's no need to plug the hose to the tank. That will possibly be why your getting increased vacuum pressure in there. I left mine open and I've not had any issues.