Hi Kiwi,

Just curious, How much of a weight savings is that?

 

Great question! 715 grams or 1.58 lbs.

Did it throw a code from unhooking that switch? If it does, I am sure that can be removed through the ecu, or with a resistor, like is done with Kleen system removal.

Yep it brought up code 3A which is Purge valve malfunction, wiring open or short (Equipped Models)

So now I have two codes showing! Hoping to get all that cleared out with the re-flash.

 

Did it throw a code from unhooking that switch? If it does, I am sure that can be removed through the ecu, or with a resistor, like is done with Kleen system removal.

 

Is the EVAP canister required in all non-US models? I had one in my first bike in California but I think that's the only state in the US that requires it due to stricter emission standards.

 

Tried this today, with the intention of also taking care of the error code.
With just the removal of the left side fairing, I ended up leaving the purge line connected to the three-way joiner but removed and plugged it at the cannister end. This was because it looks like you can't access the joiner unless you have the tank and airbox off..

To prevent the error code, take a 680 ohm half watt resistor, and cut the legs so they're about 20 mm long. The legs can then be bent around and pushed into the purge valve socket. The resistor legs are a nice fit into the socket pins and should go in about a centimeter or so.

Job done, no purge valve error code :devil:

 

:sigh:

Nice work mate. Yeah my auto electrician friend said I could add a resistor to eliminate the error code but I wanted it all gone. I've got two other error codes showing anyways.

It's good to know what size ohm resistor is required for this mod though.

 

Y'all think the tst emission block off plate kit would prevent the code it done in conjunction with the evap can removal?

 

Not likely, as there is a plug in valve for the evap AND air induction system. I think you would need a resistor for each one. I used a 680 ohm 1/2 watt resistor for the evap. I think the ais kit from TST comes with 1 resistor only.

 

Are these evap canisters only on US bikes,ive not looked round my bike to see if its got one,tho I do not know what it looks like?

 

Evap.

 

The evap canister looks like a black soda can with three hoses going to one side. Well at least that's what the ones on my other bikes looked like. That's for clarifying the different systems vs. the tst kit. Looks like going to have to stop by the local electronics store...

 

Thankyou Mr Mike,
will now have look on my bike,
keith

 

UK models are Euro 4 compliant so you will have one.

 

I haven't done anything as yet to bypass the abs system sorry. That price eek, ridiculous!! But the evap resistor trick works well.

 

Did you remove your PAIR (air injection) valve too? I think yourself or someone posted what size resistor it requires. I know it's not 22ohm as that didnt work for me, just made my battery go flat!

 

Yes, worked fine for me.

 

Sweet thanks!
I going to make a resistor up for each system and remove all that junk :grin:

 

Just pulled the canister off...do I need to plug the nipple on the tank, or do I leave it open to vent to atmosphere?

 

Leave it open to pollute the planet, you naughty person you. :smile_big:

 

Thanks! Wish I would have asked *before* I let the tank (with that nipple plugged) sit on the floor of my garage with the sun hitting it through the open door (was hot) until pressure built and it started leaking fuel in a puddle on the floor.

 

Dragging this one back out - I didn't ride for a week or two while I was traveling/waiting for parts and my battery was dead when I went to ride yesterday. I'm guessing the circuit stays open with the ignition off and the solenoid plugged in, but with the resistor in, it completes the circuit so the resistor is constantly dissipating all the battery's charge as heat over time. I removed the solenoid from the canister and disassembled the solenoid itself, I see if it's enough when plugged in to still avoid the light - if not, I'll reassemble at least the solenoid part, which should be enough.

 

Well I'm glad I'm not the only one who has had this issue. I've tried two different types of resistor now with no luck so I've just gone back to ignoring the light which is going to be on anyways because of the gearing change.
Man bikes are getting complicated these days. Doesn't encourage modding! :grin:

 

Hi everyone

I'm from Thailand.

I remove it already. If u don't push the resistor ( 1kohm 2watt recommend ).
The check engine light will be show and the engine power will be drop a little bit.

 

I've had the resistor installed for about 2 weeks and haven't noticed any issues, but I do ride almost every day.

 

Update, it's been about 3 months and I haven't had any issues with the battery after installing the resistor in place of the EVAP system.

 

Does anyone know how long I need to run the bike before expecting the CEL to go away once a condition is fixed? I pulled the resistor out for the sake of my battery and put the minimal amount of the switch there (see pics below). I started the bike - ran fine, no CEL. I disconnected the plug and started the bike, instant CEL. Still lit after I plugged it back in but I'm pretty sure it will take some "no error condition" cycles to clear.

 

AFAIK unless you get a Kawasaki dealer to plug into the Kawasaki diagnostics system (KDS) plug at the rear of the bike or you flash your ECU using software that has the ability to do same then you have to do the riding sequence that is mentioned on here somewhere in another thread. 'clearing error codes' maybe. I don't have time to search at the mo sorry.

 

I need the Service Code Erasing procedure or the one Kiwi mentioned, which entails some number of start/drive/warm up/whatever.

Edit note: Found it.

 

That's it. It's a pain in the arse to perform and you have to be really careful with your times but it does work. Let us know how you get on.

 

does every model 400 have an evap system? in years past, only California bikes had them in the United States

 

I am also wondering this question?

 

I don’t think my bike has it, but I may have overlooked it. I’d had a few shots of bourbon by then so who knows.

 

Have a peek inside the left hand fairing between rounds. It's near the front just below the fuel tank, quite a big box, cant miss it unless your vision is starting to blurr Lol.

 

I am in New York, the east coast, and I have the EVAP canister. I just looked and like Kiwi said, you can’t miss it.
Left side of the bike, below the gas tank, you can see it with the fairing on. I will look into getting rid of it in the off season, which is here. :crying:

 

@yarddog I have been looking into this more and I found that Spears racing makes a bracket to relocate the voltage regulator where the evap canister is located. Seems like a good idea to protect the voltage regulator and move it to a safer spot it won’t get damaged in a wreck. Here is the link.

https://www.spearsenterprises.com/p...htweight-aluminum-voltage-regulator-re-locator-kawasaki-ninja-ex-400-2018-2019/

 

Since I removed my EVAP and plugged the hose to the tank I've had a good amount of vacuum created in the tank, it's very noticeable when I open the gas cap to add gas. I have to get my fingernails under the edge of cap to pry it open. So I bought one way breather valves for dirt bike gas caps and replaced the plug in the hose with it. When I opened the hose it took a while for it to equalize pressure in the tank. See pics below. I did test if the one way function actually worked with a syringe and on these cheap valves it did not, water squirted right out of the vent holes. My feeling is that the system is built so little or no gas actually gets out through the vent, they wouldn't want fuel in the EVAP canister I would think. So I went ahead and installed and I'll see how it goes. At least I don't have to worry about fuel starvation.

 

There's no need to plug the hose to the tank. That will possibly be why your getting increased vacuum pressure in there. I left mine open and I've not had any issues.

 

I’d remove the valve or replace it with a long hose if you want something there, because I’m pretty sure it needs to breathe both ways. I left a cap over that little nipple on the tank while I was doing some tank-off work - the sun coming in through my open garage door hitting the tank on the floor heated it enough to build pressure with nowhere for it to go. The result was a big pool of fuel on my garage floor.

 

The valve breathes both ways, its supposed to stop fuel from coming but allow air both ways.

 

I don't have this evap can. Should I be worried?

 

I have one I can send you!!:grin:

 

Remember its a box not a can, specifically its a rectangular box not a cylinder and is black with a black band around it so easy to miss if you're peeking thru the fairing and don't have good light...

 

Right its a box with a metal bracket, I am familiar with it, and swear mine had it, it does not. I currently have the fairings off the bike and its not there


The thing that has me baffled is I swear I saw it on mine and its not there now.......lol oh well, guess I never had it, maybe I saw it on one of my other bikes or something?
Not sure now, anyway, no longer a problem for me