That’s the purge valve- not a sensor. The loose hose should go from that purge valve port back to the throttle body to burn the stored fumes. I would reconnect it unless you are building a race bike and then you would want to eliminate all of it to cut weight.

 

Thanks, yeah, I went ahead and reconnected that hose. Crazy it was disconnected when I took that fairing off.

Going to just leave it all on the bike. This thread is interesting but that weight won't make a difference for me just on the street so it's fine.

 

Bumping this thread again because I've seen a few diagrams and photos that aren't really matching my situation.

I was installing the TST frame slider kit and found out I have a California bike apparently..... in South Carolina. Go Figure. Anyway it has the evap canister, lucky me.

When I went to relocate the canister I saw that the second male tube fitting had nothing connected on the sensor as shown in red here (I reused an image from this thread, this isn't mine exactly):

Not sure if that's normal though cause I also had a loose hose with a spring clip on it even. But, the loose hose isn't the simple line out of the fuel tank, it goes back under the fuel tank. Thinking it came loose during dealer installation I just clamped it onto the open male peg of the sensor. No issues with 10 miles of riding thankfully but now I'm thinking that second peg is supposed to be open on that sensor?

Here's what it looks like with that hose disconnected again - this was how it was when I first took off the fairing on a new bike.

Is this correct? The diagram from the service manual isn't making a lot of sense.

Because the service manual seems to say that it should be connected, like this?

 

The forward nipple on the left side of the gas tank is the fuel tank overflow. If you overfill the tank it will drain through this directly onto the ground.

The rear nipple on the left side of the gas tank is a vent that goes into the charcoal canaster, if fitted. If no charcoal canister, it goes into a connector (14069 "Breather, Fuel Tank) which then goes to the ground.

Without charcoal canister.

Charcoal canister

 

This was very helpful, thanks!

 

Most racers just leave them both open. One is a vent, the other an overflow if you overfill into the cap area.

 

Generally run them into overflow bottles, right? Might be wrong/might vary by bike, but I had been told the overflow can get some love at large lean angles with a full enough tank.
Personally I just kept anything that was routed to the bottom of the bike, and instead routed them into an overflow bottle. So that was:

• Coolant overflow, direct from radiator to overflow bottle (no OEM holding fluid). Overflow bottle mounted to frame below the radiator outlet.
• Fuel overflow, into overflow bottle
• Vent, after evap removal, straight into overflow bottle, which I mounted where evap used to be

Works well for me, generally neither have anything in them unless I wash the bike with the tubes connected.

 

Sorry to belabor this! I got one small cap on the T junction and one large on the airbox. Do I use the second small cap to plug the tank vent that went to the EVAP canister? Or leave it open? Is the second small cap a spare?

 

My preference is to leave it open. I run a line from the vent into a catch, along with the overflow line. Figure it’s better for the vent to be open and this has been working great for me

 

Hey mate
As you’ve highlighted, I’ve used the cap to seal off the T-junction, however I’ve not capped off the line from the tank. Instead, I have both lines from the tank running to an overflow container as my bike is a race bike. This works really well for me. I hope that helps

 

Thanks! My bike is track only as well. Is capping the vent I circled more appropriate for a street bike? That vent is to bring fuel vapors to the charcoal canister,right? Anyone doing the line down to nowhere instead of a bottle like in the other pic?

 

Anyone know?

 

I am installing the Norton Motorsports Block off plate and AIS removal kit. It comes with 2 small vacuum caps. The first one goes on the T junction, correct? Does the second cap plug the gas tank where the hose connected from the evap canister? Or do I run the hose down instead? Or does the second cap go somewhere else?
Like these previous photos?:

 

Sorry, another one. I removed the evap canister, and left the purge valve to avoid a CEL until eliminator plug is delivered. I then blocked the tube going from the canister to the valve, and ran the one from the tank into a catch can, where my fuel overflow is also running.
Does anyone see any issues with this? What does the valve itself do?

I guess my concern is the valve has some kind of vacuum involved and will break/crack the shits if I've plugged it's inlet.

 

AFAIK all the valve does is open at certain times (not sure when) to allow the contents of the canister to pass into the inlet tract so it can be burnt in the combustion chamber. You wont damage it.

 

Now that this post has been revived. Does anyone have an image of what a stock Ninja 400 without an evap canister looks like? I.e. what does it do with the vent line?

I want to remove the canister, primarily to get some space on the left side, but I'm paranoid about plugging things / leaving things open that are petrol related. Figure a Ninja 400 without the emissions junk must have something in its place (at the tank vent), so I could do something similar.

 

In the photo from further back, you see the two hoses for gas tank overflow and vapor vent. They simply run to the belly pan, no problem. Also, the voltage regulator is relocated to a safer spot. In the closer up you see the black connector for the purge valve with a white bypass unit plugged into it and just above it the hose that was attached to the evap canister closed with a clamp and screw. Hope this helps .. .. ..

 

Normal..on a warm sunny day I can hear mine 20 ft. away 🐉

 

Hello guys, anyone that has plugged the vent line from the tank had vaccum problems? I believe there is another breather hole in the tank cap but dont know if it is tow-way or one-way. The kit from smartmoto electronics has 3 plugs, one for each hose, there should be no vaccum i believe. On my bike still with the evap system in hot days there is a lot of pressure in the tank, there is even a small whistle coming from the gas tank cap, i believe it breathes in and out gas vapor, when i open the cap it quickly blows all the pressure out and you can hear it very clearly. I havent done the delete yet but i am considering it.

 

Thanks so much! @Kiwi Rider, the cap is a little rubber thing that was delivered with my block off plate for the AIS removal. I couldn’t work out what is was for but it worked for this so I’m stoked. Thanks again for the response

 

What you've done with the breather hose looks perfectly acceptable as it's only vapor that will be exiting it.
I cant work out what you've capped the tee fitting with but it also looks good.

 

Hi all
First post, so forgive me if this has been answered. I have removed the evap canister and I’m wondering about the very short breather line that’s left running from the tank. I’ve done this for the time being, but should I get a longer line and route toward the ground like the overflow line?

Also just double checking this will do the trick to plug where it splits off under the tank, as opposed to the screw solution?

Thanks in advance

 

Quick update:
We had to plug the hose coming from the tank. The gas smell around the garage was a bit too much for one night. She will let me know if issues regarding the vacuum occur.

 

My girl did her Ninja 400 2018 EVAP canister deletion today using Smart Moto electronics sensor and plug. The procedure was super easy (99% of the time was spent to take the left fairing off). As said above in order for her to put the plug on the three way hose a removal of the tank and airbox was needed, so instead she put the plug here(see the red circle) leaving only a tiny hose (92192C). When she changes sparkplugs or delete her PAIR valve and airbox removal is needed, she may swap the plug to the three way hose. My point is that the delete requires only fairing removal. See the picture below and feel free to ask her if something is unclear on her insta @kotaronis

Her weight savings were ~ 682 grams. The kit weighs 3 grams. Photos and brief video of the steps you can see on this link - www.instagram.com/p/CKd0oaAHwXm
I wrote this post just, because even tough lots of you guys have said something on the topic at the end some things were left unclear.

 

My girl did her Ninja 400 2018 EVAP canister deletion today using Smart Moto electronics sensor and plug. The procedure was super easy (99% of the time was spent to take the left fairing off). As said above in order for her to put the plug on the three way hose a removal of the tank and airbox was needed, so instead she put the plug here(see the red circle) leaving only a tiny hose (92192C). When she changes sparkplugs or delete her PAIR valve and airbox removal is needed, she may swap the plug to the three way hose. My point is that the delete requires only fairing removal. See the picture below and feel free to ask her if something is unclear on her insta @kotaronis View attachment 16772
Her weight savings were ~ 682 grams. The kit weighs 3 grams. Photos and brief video of the steps you can see on this link - www.instagram.com/p/CKd0oaAHwXm
I wrote this post just, because even tough lots of you guys have said something on the topic at the end some things were left unclear.

Good info. Always good to not have to remove the tank and airbox.

 

This is not a "how to" but just some pics from the Evap canister removal from a California Z400. I received a "California Kawasaki Purge Valve Bypass" from KawasakiBrad out of Canada. It was a matter of fiddling around and thinking about what would actually be removed and where the electric part plugs in. Kind of a Zen project. I left the tubes in place for now, the canister itself has only two tubes and no electronics. After the Purge Valve Bypass was installed, took it for a 10 mile ride around town and some freeway. The Z400 thinks it has a Evap Canister, No codes/errors!
A note: It did not trigger a code after I disconnected the tubes but left the stock valve on. But you know these 400s, with my luck the codes/errors would show up much later. So glad I bought the Purge Valve Bypass.

 

This is not a "how to" but just some pics from the Evap canister removal from a California Z400. ...

Nice work. Those hoses dont weigh anything much so may as well leave them if you want but I would block the one going to the throttle bodies so no crap gets in there.

 

Isn't that the same thing that TST sells?

 

That’s for the PAIR valve, not the Evap canister valve.

 

Kiwi, Think you and I are close in weight so we're on a mission to ride a light motorcycle. I tried to ride a buddies BMW F800GS, almost made it out of the parking lot and realized there was no way to touch the ground, traded right back before I did something stupid.
KawasakiBrad parts aren't cheap after shipping but are specialized. You've seen me wrestle with error codes so hopefully this will go smoothly.

 

Been in contact with KawasakiBrad in Canada who steered me in the right direction. Just purchased a CA Kawasaki Purge Valve Bypass. https://kawasakibrad.com/shop/ols/products/purge-valve-bypass
So I'll get to drop another 1.5 lbs off of the Z400. After this mod it should weigh 348.5 lbs (158 KG) with a full tank.

 

Good job. Yeah seems like his plugs are the solution. I’ll look into it and see what the international freight options are like.

 

I did learn today the California model has the same ecu as the rest of the United States. Hopefully the resistor will fix it. M

 

If you go to the workshop manual > section 3 Fuel system > page 98 ECU identification, you will see the different ECU part #'s.

US = 21175-1332, CAL = 21175-1371

Not sure if it actually matters with what your trying to do though, just passing it on.

 

Since this thread has been resurrected, quick PSA for anyone reading it and worrying if replacing the evap purge valve with a resistor is going to drain their battery, I found the actual cause of my battery drainage a while back and fixed it.

My Innovv K2 dash cam came with a power converter that was drawing current even with the ignition off (and even with the park shock feature disabled). They went through two iterations of updates to the converter, but the real fix was to wire a relay into the circuit to cut battery power to the converter 10 seconds after the acc circuit lost power (i.e. key off). This allows the last file to finish being written, but stopped the power drain. My bike sat weeks during this past winter and no batter drainage issues since I installed a relay.

 

i found a 33 ohm resistor local three pack for 4 bucks. coupled with the rest of the circuit and splice i figure another .2-.5 ohms should leave me just in spec of 30-34 ohms for the purge valve

 

Yarddog, that's pretty sharp of you. You should have been a mechanic.

 

what i am saying is my bike is not equipped with the evap system from the factory, and does not have a connector to add a resistor to. i am selling the bike, and going with a flash tune software is not an option at this point.

at this point i think my only option is to splice into one of the O2 sensor circuits and maybe add a terminal and wire to the ecu connctor if it is blank. going from the schematics, i'll have to add the circuit to the ecu connector and use a resistor there to stop the fault from logging. i was hoping the connector was hidden inside the harness or something but that does not seem to be the case