[Kiwi Rider]

Thanks Anthony, yes he has sent an e-mail to woolich. But it was Friday afternoon...
As you know, you can't ring them.
We have Monday as well.
I won't bother your buddy with it but thanks anyways.
No wiring mods to clutch or stand or anything like that. It's back on standard gearing, standard battery showing no engine check light. Have removed Evap canister and Pair valve with 22ohm resistor fitted in place.
Gotta go racing!

 

[ME-Motorsports]

I'll look through the tickets, PM the tuners name/shop name so I know what I'm looking for

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Result!

I'll keep this brief, it's been enough of a saga as is but the good news is it's all sorted after another five hour session at the tuners yst.


What we found with our set up (may work for others?) was that we could not make changes to the TPS and IAT maps if there was any error code showing. Even using the disabling functions of the software did not seem to override this problem. So in short my bike was the issue and all my mods. Initially this time round the CEL was off but we had to remove the resistor I fitted to the end of the pair valve plug because it was causing my battery drain. So as soon as we did that the CEL came back on... back to square one.


How we got around it was by writing another version of maps to the ECU from another region. We uploaded part # 21175-1332 which is the US/CA/CO region. (where is CO??) Once we got this in the ECU we were able to run the auto tune process and in a little over an hour we were done.


I got a 1.8 HP gain from the new TPS and IAT fuel maps and then we tried adding 3 degrees of advance to the ignition map which the tuner guy said can give another one hp on a 300 parallel twin. But it only gave us another .2hp. So a two hp gain on the tuning on top of the two hp I got by fitting the scorpion exhaust is around 4 hp which is about 10%
Kawasaki claim 44.79 hp (33.4 kW) at the crank for the low output version of the N400 and I've got 44.69 at the rear wheel. Well happy with that!




Late edit: Anthony tells me you can just bridge out the PAIR valve connector plug to complete the circuit, you don't need a resistor in there. Another more final option would be to cut the plug off altogether and solder the two wires together.

 

[atomicmonkey]

Wow! Glad that harangue (Kiwi term) is over. Glad everything is so good. I think TST makes a plug that comes with their emission cover plate that does the same thing. And, according to the Kawasaki manual which I am searching for a diagram on removing the PAIR valve, CA=Canada and CO =Colombia

 

[Ginger rider nz]

I'll keep this brief, it's been enough of a saga as is but the good news is it's all sorted after another five hour session at the tuners yst.


What we found with our set up (may work for others?) was that we could not make changes to the TPS and IAT maps if there was any error code showing. Even using the disabling functions of the software did not seem to override this problem. So in short my bike was the issue and all my mods. Initially this time round the CEL was off but we had to remove the resistor I fitted to the end of the pair valve plug because it was causing my battery drain. So as soon as we did that the CEL came back on... back to square one.


How we got around it was by writing another version of maps to the ECU from another region. We uploaded part # 21175-1332 which is the US/CA/CO region. (where is CO??) Once we got this in the ECU we were able to run the auto tune process and in a little over an hour we were done.


I got a 1.8 HP gain from the new TPS and IAT fuel maps and then we tried adding 3 degrees of advance to the ignition map which the tuner guy said can give another one hp on a 300 parallel twin. But it only gave us another .2hp. So a two hp gain on the tuning on top of the two hp I got by fitting the scorpion exhaust is around 4 hp which is about 10%
Kawasaki claim 44.79 hp (33.4 kW) at the crank for the low output version of the N400 and I've got 44.69 at the rear wheel. Well happy with that!




Late edit: Anthony tells me you can just bridge out the PAIR valve connector plug to complete the circuit, you don't need a resistor in there. Another more final option would be to cut the plug off altogether and solder the two wires together.

Hey kiwi just curious what fuel did you run?

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Hey kiwi just curious what fuel did you run?

91.
He's done another EX400 that had a full Yoshi system fitted but he went the Power Commander route instead of ECU flash. They got 46.2 hp out of it but it was running 6 deg of advance on the ignition map.

 

[Ginger rider nz]

91.
He's done another EX400 that had a full Yoshi system fitted but he went the Power Commander route instead of ECU flash. They got 46.2 hp out of it but it was running 6 deg of advance on the ignition map.

Ah thought you might've kinda wondering how much difference 98 will make. I've been running that all along. Finally found time to get mine booked in so looks like I've got some numbers to beat

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Ah thought you might've kinda wondering how much difference 98 will make. I've been running that all along. Finally found time to get mine booked in so looks like I've got some numbers to beat

Yeah I did wonder what fuel the 46 hp guy was using. Funny the tuner guy never mentioned fuel grades or offered opinion.
Does the guy up there use Woolich?

 

[Ginger rider nz]

Yeah I did wonder what fuel the 46 hp guy was using. Funny the tuner guy never mentioned fuel grades or offered opinion.
Does the guy up there use Woolich?

Yea he does hes going to tune it in a fortnight just going to get some codes disabled and just a tune. If theres a big enough difference in power I might get the other map tuned later on for a higher octane fuel. And definitely keen to get a quickshifter then go back to the strip

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Yea he does hes going to tune it in a fortnight just going to get some codes disabled and just a tune. If theres a big enough difference in power I might get the other map tuned later on for a higher octane fuel. And definitely keen to get a quickshifter then go back to the strip

Cool, remember that if you have any probs adjusting the maps in there then try writing the 1332 maps to the ECU.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Just found this clip on Youtube and it shows the process clearly for those interested:

 

[atomicmonkey]

I've just started the process of installing a Woolich Log Box. Took the headers off and had a new O2 bung welded in place for the new wideband sensor. Removed the PAIR valve and wrote 2,500 emails to Anthony and Rich at Woolich Racing....It took me awhile to understand the priciple of the O2 sensor and the fact that once the ECU is flashed, the sensor is not needed. A simple concept...going through cement between my ears!! As soon as a part arrives to repair my air temp sensor plug, I will start the logging process.

The first picture is of the missing PAIR valve and the plug to stop the code. The second is of the new Wideband O2 sensor....kind of like showing baby pictures!

 

[Kiwi Rider]

I've just started the process of installing a Woolich Log Box. Took the headers off and had a new O2 bung welded in place for the new wideband sensor. Removed the PAIR valve and wrote 2,500 emails to Anthony and Rich at Woolich Racing....It took me awhile to understand the priciple of the O2 sensor and the fact that once the ECU is flashed, the sensor is not needed. A simple concept...going through cement between my ears!! As soon as a part arrives to repair my air temp sensor plug, I will start the logging process.

The first picture is of the missing PAIR valve and the plug to stop the code. The second is of the new Wideband O2 sensor....kind of like showing baby pictures!

Good stuff mate, it's a learning curve for all of us. Yes the O2 sensor gets disabled at flash time simply by checking a box.
When we tuned my bike we found we had to make a new bung for the Wideband O2 sensor as there wasn't enough clearance to get it into the hole where we removed the bikes OEM sensor from. As my CAT has been removed we put it back behind where the cat was and on the side for ease of access.

 

[ME-Motorsports]

The second is of the new Wideband O2 sensor....kind of like showing baby pictures!

Just remember to actually disconnect the O2 sensor from it's quick connect as well! If you still leave it connected there, it will still attempt to use closed loop fuel control. So it is imperative to disconnect it - enabling the function in the advanced settings only disables the light, not the sensor itself due to how this ECU functions.

P.S., you didn't write 2500 emails, it was like three

 

[atomicmonkey]

My plan at the moment is to remove the stock O2 sensor cable completely, all the way to the ECU connector and to use the tiny dust protectors (that were removed to put the Woolich harness into the ECU) into the two new blank spots.

 

[ME-Motorsports]

My plan at the moment is to remove the stock O2 sensor cable completely, all the way to the ECU connector and to use the tiny dust protectors (that were removed to put the Woolich harness into the ECU) into the two new blank spots.

That is above and beyond. KUDOS! *Clap clap clap*

 

[thewittes1]

That is above and beyond. KUDOS! *Clap clap clap*

Did u just initiate the slow clap?:clap:

 

[atomicmonkey]

Initial Review
Woolich Racing Log Box
Stock 2018 2018 KRT

Rationale for spending $700 for an ECU Flasher:
I am building up my N400 to be my perfect canyon/mountain bike. In the end, I decided that all of the bikes that I was in the market for were either over powered, over priced or too unreliable. I kept coming back to the N400 as the winner of my canyon bike showdown. My only concern was the Ninja’s power output at 9,000’-11,000’ (2,700-3,400 meters) elevation in the Colorado Rockies. I felt the bike, combined with minimal mods (full exhaust, racing air filter, dyno/flash tune) would help ensure that this bike did not disappoint. At first, I was going to put the full exhaust on and go have a dyno day and call it quits. After reading several great posts on tuning the bike yourself, I decided that an ECU flasher like the ones from Woolich Racing or FlashTune were the way to go for my circumstances. One thing led to another and after more studying and many emails to Woolich’s N.A. customer support guru, Anthony, I decided that the Woolich Autotune/Log Box would be the best choice for fine tuning sea level and high elevation bin maps. I decided on Woolich Racing because the product was solid, proven, they had an N400 bin file and Anthony (ME-Motorsports) has an N400 and is a contributing member to this forum.

Installation:
1-The first requirement was to remove the PAIR Valve. You can easily plug the holes and call it a day but I decided to order the block off kit with the resistor plug from TST ($34). One of the easiest mods you can do. This mod helps keep the new data consistent and focused on real values.

2-Wide Band Sensor and Controller- The Woolich Log Box requires and includes a wide band O2 sensor and controller. I removed the stock header pipe and took it to an exhaust welder to remove the stock sensor bung and re weld the larger O2 sensor bung. ($60) Another easy mod.

3-Wire Harness- I then removed most of the fairings and fuel tank and lead the new harness to the appropriate places. Fairly straight forward. Getting at the ECU plug to install 4 small wires was a bit of a patience exercise but not too bad. I just followed the excellent instructions from WR. This probably took 2 1/2 hours including removing the stock O2 sensor wires all the way to the ECU (my choice). The Zeitronix O2 sensor controller required power from the included relay. I tapped into the suggested tail light wire. Super easy and very clean. While I had all the panels and tank off, I decided to do the trunk mod that TaiMC did the fantastic how to do:clap:. I even used the same carpet from HomeDepot…Thanks TaiMC.

Auto Tuning:
The real fun starts now. I downloaded both the software and a N400 bin file to start off with (my first time to use Windows, so that has been a bit of a laughable challenge). I flashed my ECU with the new bin file, turned on the Log Box and went for several long rides to record data. I then came home and brought in the Log Box and downloaded the data files into the software. I spent about an hour looking over all that brilliant data in all kinds of formats. Most of it looked greek to me (sorry theoriginalpapa :grin: !) I then hit the magic autotune button and created a new map for IAP and TPS, and saved it to a new bin file. I then wrote that file to me ECU.

Driving:
It is recommended to do this procedure 4-5 times to smooth out the maps and I definitely will. But let me tell you that with a stock bike, there was a very nice difference while driving. Smoother throttle changes, engine sounds better (despite the stock exhaust) and the power seems to keep pushing through 10K rpm. I hit the rev limiter twice while playing around. So much fun!

Final Thoughts:
I can’t wait to get the full exhaust and do this all over again. I am not sure if I have gained anymore horse power but the way it delivers it is really great. I fully recommend any of the Woolich Racing products. And a huge thanks for all the great forum contributors that provided so much insight….cheers! PS Sorry Anthony if I have butchered any of the tech stuff here….

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Initial Review
Woolich Racing Log Box
Stock 2018 2018 KRT
….

Great review and pleasing to hear it all worked well for you. Given my isolated location, this probably would have been a cost effective option for me. I like the idea that you can revisit the tuning process after any future mods.

 

[atomicmonkey]

I like the idea that you can revisit the tuning process after any future mods.

Another benefit is the ability to have multiple bin files for different riding needs. One for track day and another for long trip/highway fuel economy etc...It takes less than 5 minutes to write a bin file to the ECU.

The one drawback for me is the steep learning curve. There is a lot to learn. The WR website, their customer service and this forum really helped me overcome most of this...I still live in the age of rejetting carbs and tuning by smell and feel