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ECU flash using Woolich Racing software

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#141 ·
atomicmonkey said:
I decided on Woolich Racing because the product was solid, proven, they had an N400 bin file and Anthony (ME-Motorsports) has an N400 and is a contributing member to this forum.
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I will probably follow suit for the same reasons. Quick question on the bin file though - do they have one just for the stock bike or is there one for full exhaust + highflow air filter as well? Or can you use the same bin file for either situation as a baseline for autotune?
 
#142 ·
Foobar said:
I will probably follow suit for the same reasons. Quick question on the bin file though - do they have one just for the stock bike or is there one for full exhaust + highflow air filter as well? Or can you use the same bin file for either situation as a baseline for autotune?
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You can save your stock bike bin file, they also have a stock bin file on their website. I used one of their's that came with the log box. It seemed better than my original. ME-Motorsports has started a different post or thread about his N400, I am pretty sure he is going to go all out with all sorts of info. Once you Autotune, it does not matter anymore. The bin file you just created is complete custom to your bike. My next addition will be a full exhaust and I will start the Autotune all over. I think if you don't have the Log Box/Autotune, with just the tuning box, it would be helpful to either know tuning and adjusting maps pretty well or be able to get a pre done bin file that has same set up as your bike. ME-Motorsports would be able to answer this much better than me...
 
#143 ·
atomicmonkey said:
You can save your stock bike bin file, they also have a stock bin file on their website. I used one of their's that came with the log box. It seemed better than my original. ME-Motorsports has started a different post or thread about his N400, I am pretty sure he is going to go all out with all sorts of info. Once you Autotune, it does not matter anymore. The bin file you just created is complete custom to your bike. My next addition will be a full exhaust and I will start the Autotune all over. I think if you don't have the Log Box/Autotune, with just the tuning box, it would be helpful to either know tuning and adjusting maps pretty well or be able to get a pre done bin file that has same set up as your bike. ME-Motorsports would be able to answer this much better than me...
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Thanks for the additional info - I was just wondering what baseline files were available for various performance mod configurations, but I guess the autotune pretty much makes that irrelevant since it will compensate and adjust for whatever mods are on the bike.

I have some basic general knowledge of tuning from having used tools like ROM Raider and ECUTek on my cars, but I've always used a professional tuner's base file to tweak. This will be my first attempt at a bike and without a tuner, so I'm hoping the autotuner does a good enough job of hitting optimal targets and then I'll just tweak from there.
 
#144 ·
Foobar said:
Thanks for the additional info - I was just wondering what baseline files were available for various performance mod configurations, but I guess the autotune pretty much makes that irrelevant since it will compensate and adjust for whatever mods are on the bike.

I have some basic general knowledge of tuning from having used tools like ROM Raider and ECUTek on my cars, but I've always used a professional tuner's base file to tweak. This will be my first attempt at a bike and without a tuner, so I'm hoping the autotuner does a good enough job of hitting optimal targets and then I'll just tweak from there.
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As of how it sits right now, the only files available for download are those with the software which includes the OEM ECU images from all the ECUs supported across the globe. The problem with "unrestricted" files is you don't necessarily know what you are going to get. I have seen other companies "unrestricted" maps actually lose power on the dyno compared to a stock OEM ECU image. So it's important to be wary and skeptical of what you download/use because it's not always going to be right for your bike/car/etc fitted with x/y/z modifications running on such and such fuel...

I am doing a build and putting all my data/maps/etc there, it is in the electronics section: https://www.ninja400riders.com/forum/93-electronics/3657-my-little-electronics-build.html Once the hard parts start to arrive over the next day or so I will have more to contribute there. But in the mean time if you do decide to purchase the products I can provide you with a temp map to get started while you let auto tune handle the rest.
 
#146 · (Edited)
Zebrina39 said:
Diagnostics codes viewing and clearing in software with two clicks; one to view, one to clear.
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Well if you want to get technical, then it is one to open up diagnostics, one to clear the codes, one to acknowledge the codes have been cleared and one to close diagnostics.

So it is, technically, one click to clear codes ;)


Still vastly better than what others out there have either having nothing and thus requiring a purchase of more hardware to include an adapter cable and OBD II scanner, a trip to the dealership or follow the manual, pain in the ass, clearing process:
Service Code Erasing
• The service codes stored in memory of the ECU can be erased using Kawasaki Diagnostic System.
If the Kawasaki Diagnostic System is not available, do the following procedures.
1. Turn on the ignition switch and start the engine.
2. Keep the idling speed more than 30 seconds.
3. Run the vehicle more than 5 minutes at a speed of 40 km/h (25 mph) or more.
Be sure to keep the engine running during procedures 2 and 3 for more than 10 minutes in total.
4. Turn the ignition switch off.
5. Repeat the above procedures 3 times.
6. Start the engine and check that the yellow engine warning indicator light (LED) goes off.
 
#147 ·
Dynojet degrees vs real degrees vs 5:2

Kiwi Rider said:
91.
He's done another EX400 that had a full Yoshi system fitted but he went the Power Commander route instead of ECU flash. They got 46.2 hp out of it but it was running 6 deg of advance on the ignition map.
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30 years of ecu tuning results:



Conclusion: Dynojet measures their degrees differently than probably, anybody else in the whole world.
 
Discussion starter · #148 ·
marc99 said:
30 years of ecu tuning results:



Conclusion: Dynojet measures their degrees differently than probably, anybody else in the whole world.
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A couple of days in a dyno room looking over some dudes shoulder:

Questions: So when my tuner added three degrees of advance to my ignition map are you saying that it's actually more or less than three degrees?

Even though he runs a Dynojet dyno system is the fact that he did the Ignition map changes through the Woolich software not the determining factor here?

Thanks for sharing your experience.
 
#149 · (Edited)
Kiwi Rider said:
A couple of days in a dyno room looking over some dudes shoulder:

Questions: So when my tuner added three degrees of advance to my ignition map are you saying that it's actually more or less than three degrees?

Even though he runs a Dynojet dyno system is the fact that he did the Ignition map changes through the Woolich software not the determining factor here?

Thanks for sharing your experience.
Click to expand...
If you change the ign timing 3 degrees in the ecu w Woolich or other software, it's a real 3 degree change.

If you change the ignition timing with a power commander 3 dynojet degrees, it's more like 1 to 1.5 real degrees.

Marc Salvisberg
As far as how it affects custom tuning, well it doesn't. You use the ign number that delivers the best power.

The danger appears when people w/ a pc say "10 degrees" (about 4 real degrees) and people w/ Woolich or sim software mistakenly add 10 REAL and way too much ign adv degrees to their ecu.

Marc Salvisberg
 
Discussion starter · #150 ·
marc99 said:
If you change the ign timing 3 degrees in the ecu w Woolich or other software, it's a real 3 degree change.

If you change the ignition timing with a power commander 3 dynojet degrees, it's more like 1 to 1.5 real degrees.

Marc Salvisberg
As far as how it affects custom tuning, well it doesn't. You use the ign number that delivers the best power.

The danger appears when people w/ a pc say "10 degrees" (about 4 real degrees) and people w/ Woolich or sim software mistakenly add 10 REAL and way too much ign adv degrees to their ecu.

Marc Salvisberg
Click to expand...
Ah gotcha, you were talking about Power commanders. That would explain why they put as much on it as they did. They would have just been looking for the optimal setting.
Cheers for the explanation, I had been wondering about that as it sounded pretty radical to me and was wondering why my advance was half of his on the same engine.
 
#154 ·
ME-Motorsports said:
No idea!

Maybe it is just older IGN modules? I did some research last night and it looks like they have made some changes to their hardware so maybe things have gotten more true to form when adjusting timing using their products?
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Nope. New hardware, too. I can't imagine being off by a factor of 2 being an oversight. Especially if most tuners know it and many have asked about it.

I might never have noticed it, except that Factory Pro made a "bejillion" different ignition advance rotors in different number of degrees for "half a bejilliion" different bikes - and am pretty familiar with what +2, +4 and +6 degrees of real ign adv do to hp and NOx readings.

Sorry for the Greek!

Marc Salvisberg
 
#155 ·
marc99 said:
Nope. New hardware, too. I can't imagine being off by a factor of 2 being an oversight. Especially if most tuners know it and many have asked about it.

I might never have noticed it, except that Factory Pro made a "bejillion" different ignition advance rotors in different number of degrees for "half a bejilliion" different bikes - and am pretty familiar with what +2, +4 and +6 degrees of real ign adv do to hp and NOx readings.

Sorry for the Greek!

Marc Salvisberg
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Haha, luckily for you Marc I understand Greek. Normally I'd start chanting toga, toga, toga... but this weekend is St. Paddys and I've got some Irish in me so no Toga parties this weekend.

But yeah for odd, huh? I haven't used their ignition modules since I last pulled mine off of my personal bike shoot, 7-8 years ago, right around the time I started being the Woolich distributor here in the US.

How I figured it out was by trying to advance timing in a bike that is known for a significant timing cut in the upper RPMs. Trying to add the degrees the manufacturer nixed in the ECU resulted a very minimal gain to the point where it would likely be chalked up to just variance between pulls. It wasn't until after advancing it several more times in varying increments that we started to pick up the same power one would as if you had simply edited the ECU to begin with changing the values there.
 
#156 ·
@ME-Motorsports

Question. The bug is itching, and though I'm planning on dropping the dough on next years budget, I might bite now. Is stock a wideband or narrowband? I want to keep it closed loop if I could, if not, hybrid, but I'm trying to stay away from full time open loop as my main goal is to switch to E85. Also, I can't find info about knock sensors, does it come with one? If not, are you just using cans? Lastly, what are the stock IDCs sitting at? Trying to gauge how much headroom the fuel system has.
 
#159 ·
atomicmonkey said:
Stock is narrowband. If you keep the stock header and go with a wideband sensor, you can easily have the new bung welded in place of the old one as the wideband sensor will fit in the same place. The rest would be best answered by Anthony, ME-Motorsports.
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Cool thanks! I'll just get a bung welded on my new header

marc99 said:
Why e85?
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Better fuel. Widens the powerband, keeps gas temps down, and keeps the engine cleaner. I'm in MN and pretty much every station has it so no logistic hurdle for me.
 
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