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yeh 4.3 was mine should try again soon, biggest impact is weight, kiwi you should be able to get 4 seconds. Also any news on what makes the Canadian model more powerful?
Yep, they dont have all the Euro 4 bull$hit on them and the ECU tune will be different. Ignition timing etc. Just starting to look into all this now.
Basically it appears Australasia, Thailand (why them I dont know) and UK/Europe get the strangulated Euro 4 compliant model unfortunately.
Will keep you posted.
 

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Yep, they dont have all the Euro 4 bull$hit on them and the ECU tune will be different. Ignition timing etc. Just starting to look into all this now.
Basically it appears Australasia, Thailand (why them I dont know) and UK/Europe get the strangulated Euro 4 compliant model unfortunately.
Will keep you posted.
As long as its not actually anything different to the engine everything should be able to be set up the same as the unrestricted model i hope
 

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Just for information, the tested acceleration of the RC 390 from KTM from 0-60 mph (0-100 km/h) is 5.5 seconds.
Just to remind you of when i said i was hitting around 4.3 stock while the engine was still in break in, here's a video of a guy hitting under 4.2 seconds fully stock and fully geared up :) as I said before im thinking 4 seconds is easily possible with the bike
 

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Yes Emud I believe everything I see, the only problem I have is to trust those numbers.
And I also will tell you why, for an exact, real exact, measurement you need Highspeed GPS like it is used in WRC Rallye cars and to analyse those numbers you'll also need a special software - a GPS measurement via phone just to say it easy, is not correct enough and only for the little boys, but never for professionals.
I know we live in the modern Smartphone-Times with all this gimmicks and must believe what we see on it's screen, even when it is the greatest bs.
Maybe you want to search and read about the possible recording rhythm of GPS-oriented devices, I guess it could help for better understanding.
haha i know i know let me just have this win for now
 

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I was using the below setup about 7 years ago (my below post is 7 years old, lol, from another board). It is advertised as a 10hz transmitter (although it may be actually 5HZ, interpolated to 10…can’t remember). Basically you pair the transmitter to your phone, and use a phone app to log the data to an excel spreadsheet. Then you can do whatever you want with it.
Warp12 said:
I picked up one of these:

It is a Bluetooth GPS sending unit. The basic problem with typical handheld GPS units is that they update so slowly, usually once per second. Meaning that you can easily get a reading that is inaccurate. I personally have seen this when comparing GPS results to data logged runs. Using the proper hardware and software combination, you can get some great results with one of these Qstarz units, and they will update at a 5-10hz rate. This will be a great data-logging tool. :thumbup:
Using a few datalogged runs, I was able to produce this simple spreadsheet comparison chart:

I was able to overlay the data from multiple runs and produce a line chart of time-to-speed roll-on comparisons in various gears. As with anything, being able to collect and analyze the proper data is key. The same holds true for testing methodology. All the data in the world won't help you if you don't really understand what it is telling you!
Surprisingly, they still sell that unit, for about $80:

https://www.amazon.com/Qstarz-BT-Q818XT-Channel-Bluetooth-Receiver/dp/B003YCZINA

Qstarz also makes a lap timer for about $400. It has lots of extra features, especially for timing things over set distance and such. That's the type of setup that I really want to get. Using the phone was a bit clunky.
 

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Received my battery today, it weighs 0.7 kilos while stock weighs around 3.1kgs, after install I went to do some 0-60 mph runs, My best time is now 4.15 and thats with the 160 rear tyre so Im thinking maybe a 4 second time is possible with a full system and a tune?
 

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Received my battery today, it weighs 0.7 kilos while stock weighs around 3.1kgs, after install I went to do some 0-60 mph runs, My best time is now 4.15 and thats with the 160 rear tyre so Im thinking maybe a 4 second time is possible with a full system and a tune?
What exactly are you using to measure this time? Do you have any video? I'm interested to see how you are launching the bike.
 

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What exactly are you using to measure this time? Do you have any video? I'm interested to see how you are launching the bike.
next sat ill record a video with a mate, Im just going of by gps and a mates helmet footage, to get best time I found on launch you have to rev real high "I go around 8k rpm" and drop as fast as you can without the front going of the ground, I also make sure not to go into 3rd gear at all as I find 2nd gear hits 112km. weight is the most important part imo, im now at 69kgs, the bike has also lost a bit of weight "around 8.5kgs" but the most Important part is definitely the first second on launch, you cant be to scared of dropping the clutch :)
 

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Thanks for the replies and emudshit definitely do some videos after break in would be much appreciated ^.^ I’m currently 285 pounds (typical fat American) but once I get my bike I’ll be hitting up the gym, as it stands now it would cost me to much gas, the closest gym sucks, all the others are across town lol
my $.02- If you need to lose weight, just going jogging everyday (outside cuz treadmills are bullshit). Jog everyday (5/7 days a week tbh- (2-3 days on, 1 day rest, 3 days on- 1 day rest, repeat), and always do a little more than you did the day before no matter how sore or tired you are-( even if you take longer to do the distance). Get up to at least 4-6 miles/day and eat right and the weight will fall off. I'm not a doctor nor nutritionist- i just ran XC for 8 yrs and got fat every off-season and had to do this **** to get back down to a 6:15/mile... QQ. It sucks not gonna lie. BTW: We did have to do weights about 4x/month and weights seemed to speed up my metabolism(made me hungrier), and often made me over-eat that night/next day. however as long as you eat the same amount as you've consciously calculated is okay, weights are a good tool, but **** they can make your body crave extra food, even more than being fat does and it is easy to overeat. Also, set a routine for the jog, as in FORCE yourself to always go RIGHT after work or not at all that day which counts as your 1 rest day- no matter what. it's what i do. sorry you probably weren't looking for a lesson. Peace
 

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I was using the below setup about 7 years ago (my below post is 7 years old, lol, from another board). It is advertised as a 10hz transmitter (although it may be actually 5HZ, interpolated to 10…can’t remember). Basically you pair the transmitter to your phone, and use a phone app to log the data to an excel spreadsheet. Then you can do whatever you want with it.


Surprisingly, they still sell that unit, for about $80:

https://www.amazon.com/Qstarz-BT-Q818XT-Channel-Bluetooth-Receiver/dp/B003YCZINA

Qstarz also makes a lap timer for about $400. It has lots of extra features, especially for timing things over set distance and such. That's the type of setup that I really want to get. Using the phone was a bit clunky.
For my track days i use an iPhone with Harry’s lap timer. I also pair to a Bluetooth Dual XGps150 and that is much more accurate.
 

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Looking at all these comments... I weight 90kg without any gear on, considering all the gear its at least 94-95.. and on a stock bike. what should i say then lmao.


But all honesty, if you dont take it to the track, I think its meaningless to invest time money and energy to remove weight from the bike. I think they did a great job on the weight factor on this bike, takes any bike in his catgorey.
 

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Looking at all these comments... I weight 90kg without any gear on, considering all the gear its at least 94-95.. and on a stock bike. what should i say then lmao.

But all honesty, if you dont take it to the track, I think its meaningless to invest time money and energy to remove weight from the bike. I think they did a great job on the weight factor on this bike, takes any bike in his catgorey.
Kawasaki did do a good job building the bike - but they did it to a price point, and for most of us its great the way it is, Some people want there ninja 400 to be quicker than your ninja 400 but to get it lighter means better equipment and a higher price.

Why 0 to 60, Cause its a fun figure to know..! It doesn't have to be relevant to anything. Its a gauge of performance and bragging rights.. Take Emudshit for example hes putting allot of thought and cleverness into getting his bike to be as quick 0 to 60 as he can... Why...?? cause its fun to have a goal and achieve it.
 

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But all honesty, if you dont take it to the track, I think its meaningless to invest time money and energy to remove weight from the bike. I think they did a great job on the weight factor on this bike, takes any bike in his catgorey.
I feel completely deflated by that comment... my life no longer has purpose... :crying:
 

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Looking at all these comments... I weight 90kg without any gear on, considering all the gear its at least 94-95.. and on a stock bike. what should i say then lmao.


But all honesty, if you dont take it to the track, I think its meaningless to invest time money and energy to remove weight from the bike. I think they did a great job on the weight factor on this bike, takes any bike in his catgorey.
I used to commute on a sv1000....trust me..weight makes a difference, try splitting through traffic with a 200kg+ bike lol or try riding in slow traffic through the city with a heavy bike, its just terrible. and its not very expensive to lighten up, infact I think a lot of the mods are free aka evap removal, pegs removal, pair valve removal and getting a fender eliminator is thought to be a natural thing now days anyway. the only thing I can think of that really costs money is a battery and exhaust, but even then I made my own full system, purchased a 50$ cheap Chinese ebay exhaust and paid only 90$ for my lithium battery so 140$ and my bikes 10kgs/22lbs lighter :) im happy with that. thats 140 AUD not USD also my bikes 12kgs lighter but thats due to sprockets, bar ends, mirrors and a new chain that part I do admit is expensive lol
 

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Someone posted that shedding 7 lbs is like gaining 1 more hp. I'm totally for decreasing weight on a vehicle because it improves overall performance. I can actually feel the difference in the weight loss. And that's a great satisfying feeling.

I find it addicting actually; next mod is a lithium battery when the stocker craps out. :grin:
 

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And yes Mr Mike 0-60 matters because you can compare all vehicles in that range. Plus it is a great measure of torque and gripsion....real word I made up.
 
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