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Discussion Starter #21
Yeah, my luck Ill buy some risers and they wont fit, lol. At the 1", you didnt have to reroute the cables at all?
Dear Mr no tools... :wink: I have just measured the bars and they are 22mm diameter (7/8" in ancient units), and, yes, no re-routing at all for 1" risers and everything nice and free.

My risers:

 

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Thx Jim.
With that info I tried to look up that particular brand of riser and had no luck so I went with these, just in case I need to go higher.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0068FV596/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Next up, Im thinking about bar end mirrors.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JRR9JIA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=tremonte0b-20&linkId=08e8c099d5258c43856b5def27566283
I dont plan on doing any lane splicing, and the factory mirrors are pretty useless..
 

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Discussion Starter #23
That riser kit looks like a great idea. I had no idea that such a thing existed; I'd be interested to know how it works out.

Personally, I am less convinced by bar end mirrors. Won't that involve the removal of the bar end weights that are there to dampen vibrations from the engine?

A lot of folk dislike the existing mirrors, but I don't find them useless. Sure, your shoulders take up part of the view (normal, unless you have much wider mirrors) and they do vibrate on their rubber mountings, but I still find them useful and they do let me track traffic behind me - they aren't great, but for me at least they perform their function. However... if anyone can tell me how to eliminate their vibration I am all ears!
 

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...Personally, I am less convinced by bar end mirrors. Won't that involve the removal of the bar end weights that are there to dampen vibrations from the engine?
True but the mirrors act as a vibration dampner too. My bar end mirrors dont vibrate as much as the fairing mounted ones did.
I didnt have the OEM mirrors on for long but I think from memory they had better vision than lot of others I'd had on previous bikes.
 

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That riser kit looks like a great idea. I had no idea that such a thing existed; I'd be interested to know how it works out.

Personally, I am less convinced by bar end mirrors. Won't that involve the removal of the bar end weights that are there to dampen vibrations from the engine?

A lot of folk dislike the existing mirrors, but I don't find them useless. Sure, your shoulders take up part of the view (normal, unless you have much wider mirrors) and they do vibrate on their rubber mountings, but I still find them useful and they do let me track traffic behind me - they aren't great, but for me at least they perform their function. However... if anyone can tell me how to eliminate their vibration I am all ears!

The riser worked. They installed to 1.5in. after I told them to go only 1in., but I decided to try it out. Feels real good with no issues with the cables. Not leaning on my wrists anymore at all.
The only bugger is that these particular risers are for oval type bar mounts, not the block type. So there is a gap on the outside edge all the way around the original mounts. Ill keep them for now and try and find a block type mount. Live and learn!


As for the end mirrors, there are multiple types as well. You can get a clamp mount type that goes around the outside of the weights, or those that replace the bolt and screws into the weight mount.
 

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Im assuming you used the flat plate style? Ive found them in a multi height kit that goes from 1" - 1.5" in four steps.

Ive also found risers that are 2", 3"and 4" fixed size, in the L type. Do you feel you may need to higher than 1" in the future?

How tall are you?
At 5' 11", I feel like Im leaning over a bit more than I should.

Also, how thick are the handlebars?

Thx!


Ive purchased the sliders (kawa green), the LED lights, the relay, and the extended windshield (meter cover).

I also bought a few Apace Vision reflective safety harnesses. My riding jacket isnt all that reflective or bright. I can use them at work too.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QIJFI86/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


How do you guys feel about the rear fender eliminator and a sequential programmable break light?
https://www.amazon.com/2018-2019-KAWASAKI-NINJA400-Eliminator-Compatible/dp/B07PJD79R2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=2019+kawasaki+Z400+fender+eliminator&qid=1563234817&s=gateway&sr=8-3


https://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-Ninja-Integrated-Sequential-Smoked/dp/B07HJJ8BHC/ref=pd_day0_hl_107_20?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07HJJ8BHC&pd_rd_r=e6619c9c-a75b-11e9-b055-c790120e382f&pd_rd_w=BPywH&pd_rd_wg=FzIxO&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=6CA4GDYVWEYJ15241H8X&psc=1&refRID=6CA4GDYVWEYJ15241H8X
Hey, man! Where did you get get your sliders from?
 

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Hey, man! Where did you get get your sliders from?
From China!

I ordered mine off of Ebay. They havent arrived yet.


Jimmy, the thread originator, ordered his from Lazada, which Im assuming is somewhere in Taiwan. Im basing my purchases off of his list in the second page of this thread.


Some of this is based off of the 2018 - 19' 400 Ninja components, as the Z400 doesnt have as many after market parts. Since the Z400 is basically the same as the Ninja other than the handlebars, suspension, and other non frame and engine parts most of them "should" be compatible.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
So there is a gap on the outside edge all the way around the original mounts.
Thegame101, to be honest, my risers also don't align perfectly (I've used them on lots of bikes and never had any that do). They look a lot better, and don't draw the eye though, if you paint the exposed shiny aluminium. All I did is spray some black paint into the aerosol's lid, let it evaporate a little, and then apply with an artists brush. Looks just fine and easy to remove with sovent, so nothing too permanent!

Glad to hear the risers are working for you though. It is like my wife said, it's surprising what difference an inch or so makes... ?
 

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Discussion Starter #29
True but the mirrors act as a vibration dampner too. My bar end mirrors dont vibrate as much as the fairing mounted ones did.
I didnt have the OEM mirrors on for long but I think from memory they had better vision than lot of others I'd had on previous bikes.
How do you find them in terms of looking down to use them. Part of my concern with bar end mirrors is having to really take my eyes off what is in front of me to look into them. I use mine a lot to keep track of what's around me, and this feels like it would be dangerous... I guess I just need to try them!
 

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Jim.
The difference is this...
You have to bring in your elbows and lean to see whats behind you and still take your eyes off the road, or you can look down for a sec and see whats behind you without any extra motion..


IMO, the more I use, and see the options for the stock mirrors, such as extenders and risers, Im thinking another option. The mirrors suck. The options for getting extension for the mirrors suck. Being said, Im looking at other options before I take them off, lol.
 

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Thegame101, to be honest, my risers also don't align perfectly (I've used them on lots of bikes and never had any that do). They look a lot better, and don't draw the eye though, if you paint the exposed shiny aluminium. All I did is spray some black paint into the aerosol's lid, let it evaporate a little, and then apply with an artists brush. Looks just fine and easy to remove with sovent, so nothing too permanent!

Glad to hear the risers are working for you though. It is like my wife said, it's surprising what difference an inch or so makes... ��

We have a bunch of pool noodles that we used to stuff in the holes of the log cabin we used to live in to keep the cats out... Long story..
Im thinking of 3in1 or Breakfree on the metal to seal and then cutting out a sized section of the foam to bring it to flush. add a zip tie or two..


BTW!
For the green on the Z400 the description is Candy Lime. Looking for matched vinyl and tubes so I can make muscle and sinew. So far no joy. Looks like Ill have to buy a few samples to narrow it down.
 

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How do you find them in terms of looking down to use them. Part of my concern with bar end mirrors is having to really take my eyes off what is in front of me to look into them. I use mine a lot to keep track of what's around me, and this feels like it would be dangerous... I guess I just need to try them!
I dont find it to be an issue but they are a bit smaller than the OEM mirrors so your field of view is less. You learn to glance at them quite quickly once you get used to where they are on the bike.
 

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So, here's an update on where I am at with upgrades/mods so far...

6 LED Oval driving lights. The additional front lights are really needed for safety here in Thailand, so that drivers treat you like a big bike and give you a little space, rather than ignoring you as a scooter "flea". The sliders proved to be a perfect location for mounting the lights, and imho fit in well together.

Whilst doing the electrics I also added a simple 2A USB charging port on the handlebars and also a second "low tone" horn to add some punch to my horn sound - again, essential in Thailand! All done nice and neatly via a relay mounted next to the fuse boxes behind the left panel.


The frame sliders. Again, cheap protection on a bike I ride for sporty fun in the Northern Thai twisties ($40).
6LED driving lights. Not too big and work really well on this bike.
Relay used to add additional electrical devices.

Err... that's all for now! I'd love to hear what you other folks have been doing? Share the love :)

Jim, can you give a quick and dirty on how to wire the lights to the fuse box?
I plan on following your model with mounting on the sliders. The sliders, lights and relay are in route. This being said, Im a commercial truck driver, not a dentist!
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Jim, can you give a quick and dirty on how to wire the lights to the fuse box?
Thegame101, it's not too complicated - from memory... I removed the seat and the left cover, then pulled the left fuse box off its mount and tested the wires where they enter the rear of the box with a multimeter to find an ignition switched live (shows ~12v with ignition on, zero with it off), then "vamped" into that wire with a tail to go from there to the relay. I took the permanent live for the relay directly from the positive terminal of the battery, and added the earth by attaching a cable to a nearby bolt that is attached to the bike frame. I'm attaching a picture to show which terminals these are on a relay.

With that all done you just take the positive "out" feed from the relay (pin 87) to your new lights, USB, whatever. Have fun!

My relay mounted neatly between the two bike fuse boxes - fits just great there.

 

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LED lights came in today. Just waiting on the relay.



I had also bought some vinyl in metallic lime green, but then had to cancel the order after I found out how difficult it was going to be to apply. Still looking for candy lime trim tape.
 

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Thegame101, it's not too complicated - from memory... I removed the seat and the left cover, then pulled the left fuse box off its mount and tested the wires where they enter the rear of the box with a multimeter to find an ignition switched live (shows ~12v with ignition on, zero with it off), then "vamped" into that wire with a tail to go from there to the relay. I took the permanent live for the relay directly from the positive terminal of the battery, and added the earth by attaching a cable to a nearby bolt that is attached to the bike frame. I'm attaching a picture to show which terminals these are on a relay.

With that all done you just take the positive "out" feed from the relay (pin 87) to your new lights, USB, whatever. Have fun!

My relay mounted neatly between the two bike fuse boxes - fits just great there.


Jim, When you "vamped" the ignition wire, how did you do it? Clamp, twist, solder?

Wondering because you live in a high humidity, rainy area as do I in the Pacific NW.
I was looking at using a T clamp to splice into the wire, but I cant find anything waterproof/outdoor. Same with the other connectors that will be going into the relay.


I figure Id use caulking tape to seal everything up if needed. However, if you arent having issues then I will probably skip it.
THX!!
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Jim, When you "vamped" the ignition wire, how did you do it? Clamp, twist, solder?
I just used a simple T-tap connector thingy like this.

A lot of people speak negatively about them, but I have never had a problem with them for a simple trigger use like this. Alternatively, you could peel some insulation back and solder your wire in and wrap with tape, but this is cleaner and easy to remove too if ever desired...
 
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