[Teazy Rider]

Hi, it's a 2018. Maybe they have changed it? That would be a pita.

Just some thoughts.. Was there already an error code/ or did you turn the keyswitch on before fitting the resistor? As if there was an existing error for the purge valve, or the resistor wasn't in place then that would trigger the error and it would need to be cleared by the usual methods (riding a special sequence, or plugging in a code scanner thingy). The resistor prevents any new instance of a purge valve error. Just to double check, the colours for a 680 ohm resistor are blue, grey, brown. then a gold band is a tolerance of 5%.

Would be a bummer if there is a change in the way the ecu checks for the valve!

Yeah, I may or may not have turned on the key before fitting the resistor? I tried the 680 ohm resistor and ordered an EVAP/Canister Removal kit from (PVE-023) from a company called SmartMoto in Greece of all places. Neither worked to eliminate the error code. I'm having my ECU flashed now, hope that works .. .. .. 🙄 Here are the resistors that I have.

 

[dbrain]

Now that this post has been revived. Does anyone have an image of what a stock Ninja 400 without an evap canister looks like? I.e. what does it do with the vent line?

I want to remove the canister, primarily to get some space on the left side, but I'm paranoid about plugging things / leaving things open that are petrol related. Figure a Ninja 400 without the emissions junk must have something in its place (at the tank vent), so I could do something similar.

 

[Teazy Rider]

Now that this post has been revived. Does anyone have an image of what a stock Ninja 400 without an evap canister looks like? I.e. what does it do with the vent line?

I want to remove the canister, primarily to get some space on the left side, but I'm paranoid about plugging things / leaving things open that are petrol related. Figure a Ninja 400 without the emissions junk must have something in its place (at the tank vent), so I could do something similar.

In the photo from further back, you see the two hoses for gas tank overflow and vapor vent. They simply run to the belly pan, no problem. Also, the voltage regulator is relocated to a safer spot. In the closer up you see the black connector for the purge valve with a white bypass unit plugged into it and just above it the hose that was attached to the evap canister closed with a clamp and screw. Hope this helps .. .. ..

 

[dbrain]

In the photo from further back, you see the two hoses for gas tank overflow and vapor vent. They simply run to the belly pan, no problem. Also, the voltage regulator is relocated to a safer spot. In the closer up you see the black connector for the purge valve with a white bypass unit plugged into it and just above it the hose that was attached to the evap canister closed with a clamp and screw. Hope this helps .. .. ..

Ah, thanks! Sorry, missed that somehow while skimming the pages.
This is for a track bike, so any vents need to run into a bottle. Additional vents make that more annoying, but I guess I can McGyver something.

 

[dbrain]

Sorry, another one. I removed the evap canister, and left the purge valve to avoid a CEL until eliminator plug is delivered. I then blocked the tube going from the canister to the valve, and ran the one from the tank into a catch can, where my fuel overflow is also running.
Does anyone see any issues with this? What does the valve itself do?

I guess my concern is the valve has some kind of vacuum involved and will break/crack the shits if I've plugged it's inlet.

 

[Kiwi Rider]

Sorry, another one. I removed the evap canister, and left the purge valve to avoid a CEL until eliminator plug is delivered. I then blocked the tube going from the canister to the valve, and ran the one from the tank into a catch can, where my fuel overflow is also running.
Does anyone see any issues with this? What does the valve itself do?

I guess my concern is the valve has some kind of vacuum involved and will break/crack the shits if I've plugged it's inlet.

AFAIK all the valve does is open at certain times (not sure when) to allow the contents of the canister to pass into the inlet tract so it can be burnt in the combustion chamber. You wont damage it.

 

[dbrain]

AFAIK all the valve does is open at certain times (not sure when) to allow the contents of the canister to pass into the inlet tract so it can be burnt in the combustion chamber. You wont damage it.

Thanks! I was going to leave the thing until I had the eliminator plug, but needed somewhere to mount a catch can for racing and it was the perfect place. So figured why not.

 

[Coffee Drinker]

I am installing the Norton Motorsports Block off plate and AIS removal kit. It comes with 2 small vacuum caps. The first one goes on the T junction, correct? Does the second cap plug the gas tank where the hose connected from the evap canister? Or do I run the hose down instead? Or does the second cap go somewhere else?
Like these previous photos?:

 

[Coffee Drinker]

Anyone know?

 

[moto_popo]

Hey mate
As you’ve highlighted, I’ve used the cap to seal off the T-junction, however I’ve not capped off the line from the tank. Instead, I have both lines from the tank running to an overflow container as my bike is a race bike. This works really well for me. I hope that helps

 

[Coffee Drinker]

Hey mate
As you’ve highlighted, I’ve used the cap to seal off the T-junction, however I’ve not capped off the line from the tank. Instead, I have both lines from the tank running to an overflow container as my bike is a race bike. This works really well for me. I hope that helps

Thanks! My bike is track only as well. Is capping the vent I circled more appropriate for a street bike? That vent is to bring fuel vapors to the charcoal canister,right? Anyone doing the line down to nowhere instead of a bottle like in the other pic?

 

[Billy Red]

Thanks! My bike is track only as well. Is capping the vent I circled more appropriate for a street bike? That vent is to bring fuel vapors to the charcoal canister,right? Anyone doing the line down to nowhere instead of a bottle like in the other pic?

My bike did not have a canister and both hoses from the left side of the tank go out at the bottom by the side stand. There is a larger plug that goes on the right side bottom of the air box.

 

[Coffee Drinker]

My bike did not have a canister and both hoses from the left side of the tank go out at the bottom by the side stand. There is a larger plug that goes on the right side bottom of the air box.

Yeah I plugged the airbox along with the block off plate. The kit came with 2 small plugs also. One obviously for the T, the other one not so clear on?

 

[dbrain]

Yeah I plugged the airbox along with the block off plate. The kit came with 2 small plugs also. One obviously for the T, the other one not so clear on?

Honestly, I can't remember at this point, it might be worth asking on "Ninja 400 Racers Worldwide" Facebook group, Jesse Norton floats around on there as does other staff, and lots of people who would have done this.

AIS block off I used the TST kit, because I have a stock ECU and figured avoiding a CEL would be useful. I only remember plugging one cap on the airbox.
Evap canister removal I just removed and used a elimination plug. The tube from the tank I ran into the overflow container, the other port I just plugged with a bolt and tape, as it was mostly about keeping dust/dirt out from memory. So I only really capped one area.

So I don't really know what the second cap is for, you may be right and it was meant for the tank, but personally I figure it's a vent hole, would rather keep it open.

 

[Coffee Drinker]

Sorry to belabor this! I got one small cap on the T junction and one large on the airbox. Do I use the second small cap to plug the tank vent that went to the EVAP canister? Or leave it open? Is the second small cap a spare?

 

[moto_popo]

Sorry to belabor this! I got one small cap on the T junction and one large on the airbox. Do I use the second small cap to plug the tank vent that went to the EVAP canister? Or leave it open? Is the second small cap a spare?

View attachment 23138

My preference is to leave it open. I run a line from the vent into a catch, along with the overflow line. Figure it’s better for the vent to be open and this has been working great for me

 

[moto_popo]

My preference is to leave it open. I run a line from the vent into a catch, along with the overflow line. Figure it’s better for the vent to be open and this has been working great for me

Also, I wouldn’t worry about the spare cap.

 

[Duckman]

Most racers just leave them both open. One is a vent, the other an overflow if you overfill into the cap area.

 

[Grantman]

The forward nipple on the left side of the gas tank is the fuel tank overflow. If you overfill the tank it will drain through this directly onto the ground.

The rear nipple on the left side of the gas tank is a vent that goes into the charcoal canaster, if fitted. If no charcoal canister, it goes into a connector (14069 "Breather, Fuel Tank) which then goes to the ground.

Without charcoal canister.

Charcoal canister

 

[dbrain]

Most racers just leave them both open. One is a vent, the other an overflow if you overfill into the cap area.

Generally run them into overflow bottles, right? Might be wrong/might vary by bike, but I had been told the overflow can get some love at large lean angles with a full enough tank.
Personally I just kept anything that was routed to the bottom of the bike, and instead routed them into an overflow bottle. So that was:

• Coolant overflow, direct from radiator to overflow bottle (no OEM holding fluid). Overflow bottle mounted to frame below the radiator outlet.
• Fuel overflow, into overflow bottle
• Vent, after evap removal, straight into overflow bottle, which I mounted where evap used to be

Works well for me, generally neither have anything in them unless I wash the bike with the tubes connected.