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You cut off just the head so that you will be able to slide the cylinders over the bolts, from the top -- use a hack saw, or an angle grinder if you have one, to cut the bolts -- you want to keep the bolts as long as possible, so don't cut off any more of the shank than necessary (i.e., just your blade width).

You won't torque the cut bolts -- you just screw them in a short way (see the updated picture above -- a good chunk of threads are still showing in the red circle) into 2 of the 6 holes in the crankcase with your fingers, then use them to align the cylinders as you lower the cylinders onto the crankcase, and once the cylinders are aligned and lowered, you unscrew the cut bolts with your fingers and remove them, and then install the original/real (i.e., uncut, with heads that can be torqued) 6 bolts thru the now aligned cylinders into the crankcase, from the top.

Nothing of the 2 cut bolts is left in the engine -- keep them and you can reuse them next time you take the cylinders off...
So I need to also add to the shopping list 2 M9 bolts? It doesn't say that in the manual.

As it says in the diagrams, 92154? 2018 Kawasaki Ninja 400 (EX400HJF) Cylinder Head | Babbitts Kawasaki Partshouse

Now do you make that 2 bolts, or replace the whole pack and go with 6?

Also regarding the head, in the manual it says you need to replace the 4 orings there - 2018 Kawasaki Ninja 400 (EX400HJF) Cylinder Head | Babbitts Kawasaki Partshouse

Labaled in the above link diagrams "92055" and "92055A/C"

A and C 92055 is a two different orings, there are 4 orings there acoording to the manual, yet it does not tell which one is which but from the picture it looks like 2 types (92055 and one of the A and C).

Which one do you get. Or just get 2 of everything..
 

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Forgive me for the stupid questions because I really dont understand how it works. How are you supposed to cut the heads off, how much do you exactly need to cut, and how are you supposed to torque those if you cut their heads off? I see that there are 6 M9 Cyl head bolts, do you torque those and simply leave the auxiliary head bolts without their head in the engine?

I have the service manual myself, but it's really simplified as if you are playing with lego..lol.
Yeah, but if you don't have the odd diameter bolts, which you can't get at your local shop or hardware store, then you can:
Use the existing bolts to guide it in. It's a bit tricky, but I did it just fine. You basically have to set the head block over the pistons, then insert the bolts to seat and tighten. You will see. But yes, best to order a couple up and cut the bolt heads off. It will make it easier, but not absolutely necessary.
 

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92055 is for the spark plug o-ring, I believe, and 92055A/C is for the oil (?) passage o-ring.

Whether you need A or C depends on your frame engine serial number -- from the Kawasaki website (owner center -> parts):

Rectangle Violet Eyelash Font Material property


(92055B is for the intake manifold o-ring, which you probably don't need.)
 

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Yeah, but if you don't have the odd diameter bolts, which you can't get at your local shop or hardware store, then you can:
Use the existing bolts to guide it in. It's a bit tricky, but I did it just fine. You basically have to set the head block over the pistons, then insert the bolts to seat and tighten. You will see. But yes, best to order a couple up and cut the bolt heads off. It will make it easier, but not absolutely necessary.
And did you re-use the same bolts? All 6 of them?

Also, 2018 Kawasaki Ninja 400 (EX400HJF) Cylinder/Piston(S) | Babbitts Kawasaki Partshouse

do you need to replace the ring piston set labeled "13008"? Or just down to the cylinder base gasket and the o-ring?
This too if you can :)

What was your shopping list of parts before tackling this job was, if you have any records?



92055 is for the spark plug o-ring, I believe, and 92055A/C is for the oil (?) passage o-ring.

Whether you need A or C depends on your frame serial number -- from the Kawasaki website (owner center -> parts):

View attachment 20535

(92055B is for the intake manifold o-ring, which you probably don't need.)
My frame serial number is JKAEX400GGDA11850, it does not match the GEA from the picture, or the number of the engine is what matters and by that I should go with 92055A?
 

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Actually, sorry, there is an engine number here:

Wheel Tire Vehicle Tread Automotive lighting

I doubt you would need to replace your piston rings -- you're just slipping the cylinders off and then putting them back on -- it does call for 1:10 moly : oil solution on everything, though.
 

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Actually, sorry, there is an engine number here:

View attachment 20537
I doubt you would need to replace your piston rings -- you're just slipping the cylinders off and then putting them back on -- it does call for 1:10 moly : oil solution on everything, though.
Engine and frame number is the same, 11850. So Should I go with A?

Yeah I just looked again at the manual and they are not marked as replacment parts. Are you supposed to pour the assembly lube inside them though?

And what about all the bolts? replace them too? washers in the list for sure...
 

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Yes, I would think A -- A and C are different size, so you'll know if you have the wrong ones when the time comes.

I have my moly oil in a squirt can -- I just squirt things so they have a nice coating before assembly -- it's really just added protection for the first few seconds of running. I would not remove or rotate the rings more than needed.

The bolts can be reused. In general o-rings, gaskets, seals, locknuts, and circlips need to be replaced, as do a few high-stress parts. The 4 "washers" on the head cover are technically listed as o-rings (92055-0143), so those should be replaced, unless you live on the edge (I did not replace mine, but I have spares just in case I end up with a leak).
 

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Okay, that is the list of parts that needed for the job from what I gathered. Please tell me if I forgot something:

Top end: 2018 Kawasaki Ninja 400 (EX400HJF) Cylinder Head Cover | Babbitts Kawasaki Partshouse

92055-0143 (4) - Cylinder head cover bolts washers
11061-1250 / 11061-1337 (1) - Cylinder head gasket -- Kawasaki made a new MPN for the gasket. Are they the same? Which one do I get?

CCT: 2018 Kawasaki Ninja 400 (EX400HJF) Camshaft(S)/Tensioner | Babbitts Kawasaki Partshouse

92055-086 (1) - CCT ORING

Clutch Cover: 2018 Kawasaki Ninja 400 (EX400HJF) Engine Cover(S) | Babbitts Kawasaki Partshouse

92055-0734 (1) - ORING
92055-1146 (1) - ORING

Cylinder head - 2018 Kawasaki Ninja 400 (EX400HJF) Cylinder Head | Babbitts Kawasaki Partshouse

92055-0074 (2) - ORING
92055-0133 (2) - ORING
92055-0944 (2) - ORING

Lets just say them both to be sure ^^

11004-0774 (1) - Head Gasket
92055-0890 (2) - O-Ring for the throttle body (?)
92154-2732 (2) - M9 bolts, if you want
92200-0363 (6) - M9 bolts washers
411AA0600- (2) - M6 bolts washers

Cylinder / Piston - 2018 Kawasaki Ninja 400 (EX400HJF) Cylinder/Piston(S) | Babbitts Kawasaki Partshouse

92055-0888 (1) - Infamous oring, only you need to buy the norton one
11061-1247 (1) - Cylinder base gasket

Snap rings that are labeled 92033 no need to mess with right?

Thermostat housing - 2018 Kawasaki Ninja 400 (EX400HJF) Water Pipe | Babbitts Kawasaki Partshouse

92055-0160 (1) - ORING

Water pump - 2018 Kawasaki Ninja 400 (EX400HJF) Water Pump | Babbitts Kawasaki Partshouse

11061-0875 (1) - Drain washer/gasket

2018 Kawasaki Ninja 400 (EX400HJF) Muffler(S) | Babbitts Kawasaki Partshouse - Muffler

11061-1249 (2) - Exhaust gasket
 

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Now for the (more) questions :D

According to a photo a member posted here long ago when the dealer did his job, there is another ORING that I couldn't find it's purpose in the order, the MPN is 92065-097 (Photo attached). Anyone have any idea?

Font Material property Parallel Number Paper


If you are not supposed to mess with the cylinder rings, does all that explaination about the postions and inserting the rings with the thumbs are useless for this job? Photo attached


Font Parallel Paper product Paper Document


  • You supposed to grease all of the orings with silicone (lithium?) grease and not yellow multi purpose grease, right?
  • Molybdenum disulfide oil is what commercially called assembly lube?

- Kawsakai mentions to use 2 different types of liquid gaskets sealants, what is the difference between them and if you dont go for the OEM sealants, which one to buy?
 

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You have to use your thumbs to get the cylinders over the piston rings -- I think the manual is referring to "inserting them (along with the pistons) into the cylinders" as you lower the cylinders, not "inserting them onto the pistons", since you never removed them -- unless for other reasons, you won't be removing them (or messing with them any more then incidentally needed, other than to squirt them wit moly oil solution).

The "Moly oil" solution they call for is 1 part assembly lube (I use Sta-Lube SL3331) mixed with 10 parts engine oil; occasionally, they call for pure "moly grease" (like on pusher of the clutch release shaft), which is straight assembly lube.

Don't forget your liquid gaskets (2 or 3 different ones?) -- I bought the expensive Threebond stuff -- I expect you can get by with anything...

That parts list looks right -- thanks for posting it! No need to mess with the piston circlips. I don't see the use for 92065-097 -- I wonder if that is just the crush washer for the oil pan drain plug (like 11061-0417)? I totally forgot I was mailing those M9 washers around with someone else when they ran out of stock!

As for the cylinder head cover gasket,I bought (but didn't actually use, since I reused my original one, so it is still in a box) 11061-1337, but the Kawasaki website lists 11061-1250 -- I don't know the difference.
 

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You have to use your thumbs to get the cylinders over the piston rings -- I think the manual is referring to "inserting them (along with the pistons) into the cylinders" as you lower the cylinders, not "inserting them onto the pistons", since you never removed them -- unless for other reasons, you won't be removing them (or messing with them any more then incidentally needed, other than to squirt them wit moly oil solution).

The "Moly oil" solution they call for is 1 part assembly lube (I use Sta-Lube SL3331) mixed with 10 parts engine oil; occasionally, they call for pure "moly grease" (like on pusher of the clutch release shaft), which is straight assembly lube.

Don't forget your liquid gaskets (2 or 3 different ones?) -- I bought the expensive Threebond stuff -- I expect you can get by with anything...

That parts list looks right -- thanks for posting it! No need to mess with the piston circlips. I don't see the use for 92065-097 -- I wonder if that is just the crush washer for the oil pan drain plug (like 11061-0417)? I totally forgot I was mailing those M9 washers around with someone else when they ran out of stock!

As for the cylinder head cover gasket,I bought (but didn't actually use, since I reused my original one, so it is still in a box) 11061-1337, but the Kawasaki website lists 11061-1250 -- I don't know the difference.
Regarding the mos2 oil (if that's how you call it?), in the manual it says weight ratio of 10:1, is that 10 part engine oill and 1 part mos2 grease?

I don't really know about all this stuff so forgive me for the many questions. I have tried searching this on ebay and this is what I got at a reasonable price plus shipping -

It says it's an oil additive, but can it be used for assembly?

Or I can just mix a bit of engine oil and mos2 grease and pour/squirt it where needed? But how can i make this precise?

Regarding the liquid gaskets, Kawa mentions 2 different ones, but they are overpriced. If I were to use an aftermarket brand like threebond, which ones will I need and what is the difference between them?
(As kawasaki mentions to use two for their reasons I suppose)... which ones did you bought?
 

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I'm not sure what that additive is -- it almost looks like it is for normal running at 50:1 -- maybe it could be used for assembly at a different ratio?

The assembly lube is really thick, like a grease -- if not diluted, it just sticks where you put it (like on the clutch release shaft).

I use:

Amazon.com: Sta-Lube SL3331 Extreme Pressure Engine Assembly Lube, 10 Wt Oz : Automotive

I wasn't especially precise -- I did 1:10 by volume, not by weight -- I assumed the densities were close.

I mixed it well and then squirt it over anything that might be dry because of disassembly and shop rags, etc.

I just keep it in a squirt can:

Amazon.com: GOLDENROD (707) Industrial Pump Oiler with Flex Spout - 12 oz. Capacity : Automotive

I bought the (expensive) Kawasaki liquid gaskets, which are ThreeBond:

92104-0004 = TB 1211F (white, soft?)
92104-1064 = TB 1216B (black, stiff?)

BTW I actually contacted ThreeBond and the specs for the different products are all over the map -- even for just a change in the last letter -- so I just went with what the OEM called for.
 

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I'm not sure what that additive is -- it almost looks like it is for normal running at 50:1 -- maybe it could be used for assembly at a different ratio?

The assembly lube is really thick, like a grease -- if not diluted, it just sticks where you put it (like on the clutch release shaft).

I use:

Amazon.com: Sta-Lube SL3331 Extreme Pressure Engine Assembly Lube, 10 Wt Oz : Automotive

I wasn't especially precise -- I did 1:10 by volume, not by weight -- I assumed the densities were close.

I mixed it well and then squirt it over anything that might be dry because of disassembly and shop rags, etc.

I just keep it in a squirt can:

Amazon.com: GOLDENROD (707) Industrial Pump Oiler with Flex Spout - 12 oz. Capacity : Automotive

I bought the (expensive) Kawasaki liquid gaskets, which are ThreeBond:

92104-0004 = TB 1211F (white, soft?)
92104-1064 = TB 1216B (black, stiff?)

BTW I actually contacted ThreeBond and the specs for the different products are all over the map -- even for just a change in the last letter -- so I just went with what the OEM called for.
Yeah I will seriously have to find a way to source all that stuff (Liquid gaskets, assembly lube)- none ships to my country.


Will that work? you have to mix it as well?

What will be the difference between this and engine oil eventually?
 

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For the assembly lube, maybe just go to an auto parts store and ask what they recommend?

I'd guess the Lucas is fine -- on the back it says it contains zinc, moly, and other high-pressure additives for maximum protection during engine break-in. Amazon reviews say it is very thick.
 

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I did my valves, I just liberaly applied motor oil.
🐉
You didn't use any mos2 grease / oil it all?

Another question, according to the manual in order to remove the exhaist pipes you need to take apart the muffler body too, maybe in order to get it out of the way completely, idk, is this true? according to this you need to buy the muffler body gasket as well.
 

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Don't know about the muffler., but on my cam and journals I only used the same oil I run in it. I may have done wrong but I would think a worn in engine wouldn't require the lube used in a new engine
🐉 ZZ
 

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Yeah I will seriously have to find a way to source all that stuff (Liquid gaskets, assembly lube)- none ships to my country.


Will that work? you have to mix it as well?

What will be the difference between this and engine oil eventually?
This is the same one I got and I used it when I re-assembled the cylinder head and put the cams back in. However I also have another lube that's more of a paste, that's meant specifically for steel parts rubbing against other steel parts...like cam lobes on the valve lifts. I used that too.
 

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You didn't use any mos2 grease / oil it all?

Another question, according to the manual in order to remove the exhaist pipes you need to take apart the muffler body too, maybe in order to get it out of the way completely, idk, is this true? according to this you need to buy the muffler body gasket as well.
The exhaust can be removed as a whole unit if you want. It's only being held in place at the exhaust ports of the cylinder and then back at the muffler with a bolt. No need to separate them unless you really want to for some reason.
 

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Guys a few more questions...

- How to clean the pistons crowns while they're in place, assuming I do not want to pull them up and further mess with stuff more than I have to. How to prevent debris / dirt from falling off depeer into the engine?

- Does pulling off the cylinder head requires at any stage to pull the shims / buckets out of their place? Considering I am looking to steer off a valve adjusment at this time.

- Rubber O-rings. In the manual Kawasaki have instructions for "Grease" and "Silicone Grease", While replacing the thermostat housing and later posting about that here, I learned that silicone grease is better for o-rings. However in the manual it states to use "grease". not "silicone grease". The engine have a few that requires replacing once you open it up, together with the exhaust o-rings and CCT o-ring as well. Should you use "normal" grease like kawa states in the manual, or silicone grease? Is it even safe to have grease coating on rubber o-rings that are inside the engine?

- Kawsaki calls for using 2 liquid gaskets throughout this entire process just for the cylinder head cover. In the manual they say to apply the first one and draw a line all over it. Then they call for the second one and say to use it only on the lips of the cover, but they already drawed over it for the first one...?

Book Font Parallel Publication Paper


- Cam sprockets bolts. Kawa says to use a non permant locking agent. What to buy? I am assuming you need one that stands heat, but what kind. I have loctite 242. Is that good enough?

- Does rubber o-rings and engine gaskets have a shelf life? Assuming it's being stored well...
 
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