[NinjaBird]

Sato Racing products.

SATO RACING | Oil Filler Caps

www.satoracing.com

Have their bar ends, rearsets, oil cap.

 

[Michael Moore]

The 2020s have a different part number on the pull rod, but no change on the numbers for the springs or plates.

 

[Norton-Motorsports.com]

The 2020s have a different part number on the pull rod, but no change on the numbers for the springs or plates.

Correct, 2020 models have an updated pull rod and pressure plate bearing, but the other issues still exist. See the full article here with 2020 updates:

Kawasaki Ninja 400 / Z400 (Ninja 500 / Z500) Clutch Slipping, Poor Shifting, False Neutrals, and Dropping Gears - Explained and Fixed!

***Update 2024*** The Ninja 500 / Z500 is showing the same issues, as it’s the same components for the most part between the Ninja 400 and 500. Items that are different: clutch pull rod and bearing (updated in 2020 on the Ninja 400), and clutch springs. Our Ninja 500 Race Spec Clutch Kit has been

www.norton-motorsports.com

 

[NinjaBird]

Correct, 2020 models have an updated pull rod and pressure plate bearing, but the other issues still exist. See the full article here with 2020 updates:

Kawasaki Ninja 400 / Z400 (Ninja 500 / Z500) Clutch Slipping, Poor Shifting, False Neutrals, and Dropping Gears - Explained and Fixed!

***Update 2024*** The Ninja 500 / Z500 is showing the same issues, as it’s the same components for the most part between the Ninja 400 and 500. Items that are different: clutch pull rod and bearing (updated in 2020 on the Ninja 400), and clutch springs. Our Ninja 500 Race Spec Clutch Kit has been

www.norton-motorsports.com

Yes, I am planning on doing the full work kit you sorted. Great development. Just have to work up the confidence and time to do the full job. The external spring kit helps with the lever pull and seems to add some very minor help with the clutch slipping less, but probably just my hopeful projection. It cant be more than 1-2 percent better for clutch grip. So, stiffer spring job before, or after I burn my original clutch plates? Hmmm... Or a full new clutch with five springs instead of three...

And combining with the shifter star/rod upgrade in this job for sure.

 

[Norton-Motorsports.com]

Yes, I am planning on doing the full work kit you sorted. Great development. Just have to work up the confidence and time to do the full job. The external spring kit helps with the lever pull and seems to add some very minor help with the clutch slipping less, but probably just my hopeful projection. It cant be more than 1-2 percent better for clutch grip. So, stiffer spring job before, or after I burn my original clutch plates? Hmmm... Or a full new clutch with five springs instead of three...

And combining with the shifter star/rod upgrade in this job for sure.

If you replace the clutch springs before your plates are toast, your plates will last much longer and save you money...

 

[Lucros]

I can't remember which spring I had gotten as I got it a quite a while back, but its the one where you have to cut the rubber cable boot off and it doesn't come with washers, and i think i liked it at one point but now its meh clutch levers dont fully return, but, its been on for idk... i probably got it around 1k so 7k miles?

 

[Flash Bantam]

This is becoming a popular mod in the wake of the clutch issues so I thought I'd give it it's own thread encase folk are doing a search for it.

The idea is that the spring helps return the clutch arm positively and eliminates any chance of the plates slipping AS LONG AS YOU HAVE THE CORRECT FREE PLAY IN YOUR CABLE.

It goes on down at the motor end of the clutch cable between the cable mount and the clutch arm. You cut the rubber boot off the exposed part of the cable and thread the spring on. It's a bit fiddly and you may want to give yourself more slack in the cable while you do this.

Spears Racing are doing a spring for this job now at the very reasonable price of $4.99. Scroll right down to the bottom of this page to see the listing: https://www.spearsenterprises.com/ex400.html

I just had a rumage through the random spring box at work and found one about the right diameter. Needs to be able to slip over an 8mm thread.
Unfortunately I cut mine down a little short and found the spring didnt have enough tension on it to make a good difference. So I added an extra lock nut to take up some space and apply more pressure. You can do this by cutting a slot in an 8mm nut with a hack saw just wide enough to slip over the cable. (see 2nd pic). When you tighten the two nuts against each other make sure the slot is to the back and unseen so the job doesn't look too Heath Robinson. :biggrin:

View attachment 6285

View attachment 6287

Clutch action feels nice and 'snappy' now and it's good to have a bit more pull to it as it's ridiculously light in std form.

This is becoming a popular mod in the wake of the clutch issues so I thought I'd give it it's own thread encase folk are doing a search for it.

The idea is that the spring helps return the clutch arm positively and eliminates any chance of the plates slipping AS LONG AS YOU HAVE THE CORRECT FREE PLAY IN YOUR CABLE.

It goes on down at the motor end of the clutch cable between the cable mount and the clutch arm. You cut the rubber boot off the exposed part of the cable and thread the spring on. It's a bit fiddly and you may want to give yourself more slack in the cable while you do this.

Spears Racing are doing a spring for this job now at the very reasonable price of $4.99. Scroll right down to the bottom of this page to see the listing: https://www.spearsenterprises.com/ex400.html

I just had a rumage through the random spring box at work and found one about the right diameter. Needs to be able to slip over an 8mm thread.
Unfortunately I cut mine down a little short and found the spring didnt have enough tension on it to make a good difference. So I added an extra lock nut to take up some space and apply more pressure. You can do this by cutting a slot in an 8mm nut with a hack saw just wide enough to slip over the cable. (see 2nd pic). When you tighten the two nuts against each other make sure the slot is to the back and unseen so the job doesn't look too Heath Robinson. :biggrin:

View attachment 6285

View attachment 6287

Clutch action feels nice and 'snappy' now and it's good to have a bit more pull to it as it's ridiculously light in std form.

Ordered my clutch arm spring but while brousing through Spears catalog I also ordered their racing clutch springs. This project will push my mechanical skills but I think it will be a fun if I take my time. Thanks Kiwi!

 

[Kaosad]

Well I have done 7000KM with just the clutch spring arm mod and it has become apparent to me that the biggest shortcoming on this bike is this F*&^ing rubbish clutch. I have had it drop out of gears and for a bike with under 50hp it is rubbish to launch. I find up-shifts are super vague without any positive "click" into higher gears.

Kawasaki really drop the ball on this part IMO.

 

[Grantman]

Well I have done 7000KM with just the clutch spring arm mod and it has become apparent to me that the biggest shortcoming on this bike is this F*&^ing rubbish clutch. I have had it drop out of gears and for a bike with under 50hp it is rubbish to launch. I find up-shifts are super vague without any positive "click" into higher gears.

Kawasaki really drop the ball on this part IMO.

Has your clutch started to slip?
I was also amazed they made such an error with the clutch wear allowance, but as far as mistakes go, thankfully an easy fix.
I replaced the clutch springs and adjusted length pull rod at 1000km to preempt any problems, and have done an additional 9,500km beating on the clutch with no problems.
Shifting is good, although I've got aftermarket rearsets with a different angle of attack on the shift shaft.
Launching does take a good amount of practice, but I enjoy launching this thing hard constantly.

 

[Jackpine]

Had my first false neutral the other day but blame myself. "Click.. Bang!..neutral" I think it was on a second to third shift and did not unload the throttle enough or was just being lazy. Also get a few failed shifts when not using the clutch. I write that off due to "riding" the shift lever which probably keeps a bit of pressure on things.
Bike needs a spark interrupter for clods like me. LOL

 

[Michael Moore]

Dropping out of gears or lack of positive shifting should be a shift mechanism/transmission (or rider) problem, not a clutch problem. The clutch transmits or breaks power, it doesn't move the selector drum or shift forks around. As long as the clutch is disengaging completely there's nothing else for it to do with the shifting process.

Dropping out of gear sounds like either you aren't getting full movement of the shift pawl or you've got a bent/worn shift fork or the gearbox/selector mechanism needs shimming for proper engagement or you've got worn dogs on the gears or the selector star needs some attention. Or maybe something else.

If there's been a big change in shift lever angle (or position with rearsets) you may have lost the two 90 degree angles (when not shifting) in the linkage. Once you get too far away from 90 degrees you start to lose leverage/travel.

Poor shifting can also be something as simple as boots that are too clunky, or a lever that needs to be raised/lowered if your ankle is running out of travel.

There are lots of things I'd look at to improve shifting before ever looking at the clutch.

cheers,
Michael

 

[Delurker]

I agree that the stock clutch & shift mechanism on this bike are pretty weak, from the springs (the one on the cable, the ones that hold the pressure plate, and the detent spring) to the shift shaft and star. I’m sure the Kawasaki engineers were thinking of this as a learner’s bike more so than a sportbike when they designed in these areas.

The redesign of the 2020 pull rod & pressure plate bearing is a very positive step for getting full wear from the clutch plates, but there are other things you can do to fix shifting and clutch issues, assuming it isn’t your left foot causing them. Norton has a nice write-up in their DIY section, I’ve posted refs to it a couple times, but I think it’s really good and informative, so HERE it is again.

 

[Kaosad]

Dropping out of gears or lack of positive shifting should be a shift mechanism/transmission (or rider) problem, not a clutch problem.

You are right on that, it could be me and my technique and poor shifter engagement.

Finally pulled my finger out and went ahead and ordered some spears racing parts to hopefully fix the problem. I was sort of hoping that it might be something I could take back into the dealer and get it fixed under warranty.

 

[Michael Moore]

I hope you get it sorted out without too much problem. Catching unexpected neutrals isn't good for one's peace of mind!

 

[mindcrime79]

that speer spring is hardly stiff enough to return the arm fully. should be slightly longer and more stiff from my experience. not impressed.

 

[Ninja400_Rider]

Ninja400R Clutch Cable Spring Kit - Kawasaki Ninja 400 / Z400 from Norton MotorSports worked really well. It was an easy installation. I would advice to remove the clutch handle by removing one bolt on the handle and the cabe comes off very easily without loosing any of your settings at clutch handle side and you do not need to move the nuts next to the new spring / boot. This way it was easy to remove the cable from the bottom clutch arm also. As far as the clutch free play, now it is a little difficult to see, but you can definitely feel the tension to measure it back to 2 mm to 3 mm. If your original play was about 2 - 3 mm, more than likely you should not need to make any adjustments. Your clutch should start engaging about the same as prior to the spring installation. I have also ordered the Barnett Heavy Duty Clutch Spring Kit, but may wait to install them around 2000 miles. Thanks to many of the folks on this forum to make this an easy install.

 

[JimShortz]

that speer spring is hardly stiff enough to return the arm fully. should be slightly longer and more stiff from my experience. not impressed.

I did mine myself, cutting down a larger spring - pretty straightforward really, and cheap. I already posted what I did in a thread about bike mods, but really it should be here. So:

"Being cheap I just bought a compression spring from eBay for $5. I bought a stainless spring with 1.6mm diameter wire and 16mm outer diameter. God knows why I bought quite so wide a spring since I have had to add a stainless sleeve (from some tube I keep in, in various sizes, for just such jobs) at each end to hold it in place properly! Anyway, an advantage is that I can still keep the rubber boot in place - all good in the end, and the wire diameter/spring strength seems ideal. To avoid sleeving, a 13mm spring with a similar wire diameter would be desirable. I bought a spring 150mm long with the intention to cut down, which I did, to about 60mm or so. You could buy a 60 or 70mm long spring and avoid the cutting, but I liked the idea of having a spare for if I got the tension wrong (I didn't!). All fitted and working now and the clutch lever is a little stiffer (fine by me) and returns quickly, with no slip at all - whatever I do... VERY PLEASED."

 

[ItsMeGeoff]

That is good to hear. I was slightly iffy on buying it due to the shipping costing twice as much as the spring but if it works I'm game.

same here. when I found out about the clutch issue. I was disappointed but if this issue has a way then I'm in. give me that N400 😁

 

[NinjaBird]

Just an update on my clutch post Barnett plates and Norton springs: it makes wheelies super fun on the N400. Just do a throttle roll off/on and there is so much grip in the clutch it comes right up. For the under $100 clutch job, and a very easy job to do yourself, it really makes the N400 a much better moto than stock clutch for the 2018/19 version. The extra clutch plate material on the Barnett plates are surely a huge part of this, not just the stiffer springs. If you're going in, it's worth the $75 for the better plates. I have zero worry about burning this clutch out, beyond just having fun with it!

 

[ChazakAmatz]

Maybe this question has been asked, but I'm ordering the 3 clutch springs from Barnett... do I also need the return spring or will just the 3 be fine?