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Emailed Woodcraft Technologies about when availability of clipons and rearsets last night, and had a reply this morning. I've used their products and have no complaints. I'll paste the reply in full:
Yes, we are. We already have a couple clipon options, and we just finished up the design for the rearsets and are moving into production. I'm aiming to have the rearsets ready for sale before the middle of April. We're also building bodywork, engine covers, frame sliders and more...
With respect to the clipons, when I tested them I found that more than anything the bike needed a little more room if you're an average size person. Here are the 3 options:
12-1403 Clipons. Bars are very similar to OEM as far as their distance from seat to bar. They are 1.5 lower than OEM at the end of the bar. (good for small riders - 5'6" and shorter). No bodywork modifications needed.

12-4541K3 or 12-4541 Clipons. Bars 25mm (K3) or 30mm (standard 4541) forward of stock (better for average riders) and can be adjusted from 0 to 15mm lower than stock. No bodywork modifications needed.
12-2541 Clipons. Bars 30mm forward and 25-30mm lower than stock. Need to cut plastic molding between bodywork and frame and also trim away the "point" of the stock bodywork for clearance. Since I'm racing my bike, this is what I elected to do.
If you need any help at all, please don't hesitate to call us. The 4541K3's on not on the site yet, but we can make them here.
Thanks, Eric Wood President Woodcraft Technologies Inc. 978-297-2977 Fax 978-297-2922 www.woodcraft-cfm.com


 

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Emailed Woodcraft Technologies about when availability of clipons and rearsets last night, and had a reply this morning. I've used their products and have no complaints. I'll paste the reply in full:
Yes, we are. We already have a couple clipon options, and we just finished up the design for the rearsets and are moving into production. I'm aiming to have the rearsets ready for sale before the middle of April. We're also building bodywork, engine covers, frame sliders and more...
With respect to the clipons, when I tested them I found that more than anything the bike needed a little more room if you're an average size person. Here are the 3 options:
12-1403 Clipons. Bars are very similar to OEM as far as their distance from seat to bar. They are 1.5 lower than OEM at the end of the bar. (good for small riders - 5'6" and shorter). No bodywork modifications needed.

12-4541K3 or 12-4541 Clipons. Bars 25mm (K3) or 30mm (standard 4541) forward of stock (better for average riders) and can be adjusted from 0 to 15mm lower than stock. No bodywork modifications needed.
12-2541 Clipons. Bars 30mm forward and 25-30mm lower than stock. Need to cut plastic molding between bodywork and frame and also trim away the "point" of the stock bodywork for clearance. Since I'm racing my bike, this is what I elected to do.
If you need any help at all, please don't hesitate to call us. The 4541K3's on not on the site yet, but we can make them here.
Thanks, Eric Wood President Woodcraft Technologies Inc. 978-297-2977 Fax 978-297-2922 www.woodcraft-cfm.com


Sounds good, yes I agree with him about having the bars slightly forward from the OEM position for more room. Will watch with interest.
 

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They're available now.

Props to @smallbored for the heads up.

I see they have gone for fitting under the top yoke instead of on top. Looks quite good as long as you don't mind a bit of stanchion showing where the OEM bar clamps originally were.
The height looks to be about the same as the Vortex but I see they are a bit more expensive. Gotta pay for quality though :)

https://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=12-4541K3
 

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Has anyone snagged a set yet?
 

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Has anyone snagged a set yet?
Yes! I snapped a picture mid install to show the difference between the WC set at the same angle, but bottomed out and the difference was quite striking; problem is due to a known bug with Nexus phones the picture is lost in the ether never to be seen again.

I now realize I don't have any pictures of the finished product so I'll update this post after work, but in the meantime, for those that will undoubtedly perform the same install here are a couple things to note:

  • If you like the stock angle of the bars, you will need to rotate the master cylinder banjo bolt ~60 degrees, potentially having to change the line if you want them more narrow.
  • If you prefer a wider angle, no adjustment may be needed, the play in the brake line at full lock to the left and right will decide the amount of adjustment necessary.
  • The bike definitely feels more vibe(y) if you don't install weighted bar ends concurrently. My set was purchased from another forum member so they did not come with any bar ends or caps unfortunately.
  • These bars come a bit long, so you can either cut them, leave them long, or shorten them by sliding a little more through the clamp towards the middle of the bike during installation.
Also, thank for the super tip @Kiwi Rider I didn't scuff anything or have any accidents having draped a towel over the bodywork and windscreen.
 

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Clip Ons - Risers?

For a race bike, Ninja400R.com recommends the Woodcraft clip-ons. When getting clip ons for the N400, do you need the 1.5" risers as well? or no risers?
 

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I just went with the bike specific version from STG...

https://www.sportbiketrackgear.com/woodcraft-kawasaki-ninja-400-2018-clip-on-riser-assembly-w-bars/

But...for a race bike with race bodywork you can probably go lower...

Something to keep in mind is the rise is not the rise over stock. It’s the amount of rise from the clamp...

This is a pretty common question. There’s a clip on specific thread on here if you look in the Parts Section. Or maybe someone else can find the link and post it here...or this post will probably be merged with it...
 

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For a race bike, Ninja400R.com recommends the Woodcraft clip-ons. When getting clip ons for the N400, do you need the 1.5" risers as well? or no risers?
Because the Woodcraft clip ons bolt on below the top yoke then you will need a riser. What height riser will depend on whether you have OEM fairing or lower cut race fairings, as Boat said.
 

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Well I just finished installing the throttle side. I’ll do the clutch side tomorrow...

Here’s a few pics for comparison. The wheel is perfectly straight in the pic from the rear so you can see the height difference...

I set the clamp 1/4” below the triple. I have 1” bar sticking through the riser for more room while lane splitting...
 

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Well I just finished installing the throttle side. I’ll do the clutch side tomorrow...

Here’s a few pics for comparison. The wheel is perfectly straight in the pic from the rear so you can see the height difference...

I set the clamp 1/4” below the triple. I have 1” bar sticking through the riser for more room while lane splitting...
:goodjob: Looks good, any clearance issues at that height?
 

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All done with the install. Pretty easy job overall...

Right now I have the CRG Hindsight LS mirrors mounted directly to the Woodcraft bar end plug. It feels pretty sturdy so I may just leave it like that. If it gets loose over time I will get the proper bar end mirror adapters..

1964F623-D1B6-40AE-A779-3A150F40ABB6.jpeg

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5BCB723E-0780-4CB9-B20D-DA1B96B7655E.jpg

A8F3221F-397B-4776-AB9C-C3E53EA97B2B.jpg
 

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Look good! What kind of fork cartridges are those? They remind me of something.
 

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I bought some Woodcraft clip ons from Norton Motorsport and have just installed them. Not too hard, just time consuming getting all the angles, clamp gaps and symmetry just right.

They are about 40mm further forward and 30mm lower than stock. This is the max I could get out of them before my levers hit parts of the forward trim. I definitely prefer the sportier stance and would have dropped them further if I could. Perhaps the adjustable chinese levers I've got coming will allow me to avoid those trim corners and drop the bars even further.
As the bars are also further forward, they contacted the dash at full lock. I ended up superglueing some nuts as spacers against the steering lock stops to limit the steering range. This is something I've done on my race bikes with no issue when I've modified the brakes to run dual lines with double banjo from the master. Note this obviously means you can't use the steering security lock.

Reusing the stock grips was a bit of a pain on the clutch side. Two screw drivers wedged underneath it finally got it started coming off.









 

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Nice job, yes it's not one that you can rush, lots going on there with one part affecting another. I had thought I might have fitted rear sets after I put the clip ons on but don't feel the need overly for street riding.
 

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I was able to keep clearance with my woodcrafts. I have seen that my fingers will touch the faring up front when I turn full lock in a low speed parking lot style turn. I thing to worry me.
Maybe you could play with the angle of the clip-ons on the fork tubes to clear up your clearance issue.
 
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