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It depends on the connection, where it is located in the bike, and the importance of it's electrical connection.

The dielectric grease is there as a waterproofing and anti corrosive lube for the connection.

Certain connections will have rubberized sealing connections that are made well enough in it's sealing it won't be necessary for the dielectric grease.
These are also connections that will be open and closed the least whereas the greased connections are probably used more often for disconnection and reconnection.

That's my best explanation for how connections differ and why grease is used and not used. 👍
40 years an electronic tech and 3 years building, testing, and bringing online Naval weapons systems for the DDG war ships experience. 😁🇺🇸
thanks for the insight..I appreciate it!
 

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6's. Was gonna get the 5's but they didn't have both tires in stock.. They did have 6's in stocks though so.....a few bucks more but worth it.
I've never ridden 6's, but 5's were great all weather tires.
The only problem I had with 5's was rear scalloping(on heavy bike with heavy throttle hand).
That shouldn't be an issue on the on a 400.
Post your thoughts on the 6's after a few miles.
 

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I've never ridden 6's, but 5's were great all weather tires.
The only problem I had with 5's was rear scalloping(on heavy bike with heavy throttle hand).
That shouldn't be an issue on the on a 400.
Post your thoughts on the 6's after a few miles.
Certainly. I have heard nothing but good things on these tires but we will see how they hold up to 800 mile weekly commutes to work once the weather is above 45* constantly.
 

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Hard wired the heated grips into switch power. Cleaned up the wiring that was done by the dude that owned the bike before me. He installed the USB outlet without the relay. Super easy but he used waaaay to long a wire. I tapped into the wire that was used to provide 12v power to the USB and soldered in my heated grips power lead. Then just jumped to the horn ground and bobs your uncle. Tomorrow I will play with the chain, add some thin foam tape to some of the body panels that nestle up against one another, and adjust the headlight beams. Mine were a bit high. Need to work on the photos I took of the valve adjustment and post them here somewheres.
 

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For those of us that have hit the magic number of miles for valve checks id like to add my findings to the collective. First I might like to mention that I put an extreme amount of miles on my commuters in a relative short amount of time. 13k miles since I bought it and started riding it as a commuter shortly after. From roughly June to October I put 13k miles on it. So the constant daily use might have affected the outcome of my valve check. That being said....
Cylinder 1 Ex. .25 .25
In. .15 .17
Cylinder 2 Ex. .25 .26
In. .13 .14.

All of them but the Outboard intake are tight. Gonna replace all of them......Joy!

Also noticed that the service manual is kinda janky in places. ended up using the chopstick in the spark plug hole method to verify compression stroke tdc. Easier than using engine timing markings.
 
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