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Went out to practice burnouts, got an ERROR 25 code back, clutch is slipping.

7K views 40 replies 11 participants last post by  Banjoboy 
#1 ·
Hey guys so I shot my clutch out after somewhat successfully learning how to do a burn out, this light came on as i was pulling onto my street and the gear shifter disappeared, is this more than a clutch? I just check the code and it is ERROR 25 so if you have an experience on this please elaborate on what my steps should be :)

here are some photos:
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#12 ·
This MIGHT explain what the OP experienced:

I think the error 25 has nothing to do with a sprocket change. Here's why:

The OP says the clutch is slipping now after his "burnout practicing". That means, that when the clutch is slipping, that the rpm of the rear wheel, in whatever gear he happens to be in, no longer matches the ratio of engine rpm to wheel rpm that the ECU has been programmed with, and so the ECU is generating the error 25.

The lesson here is that the 400's clutch is not robust enough to tolerate "burnout practicing'.

Jim G
 
#16 · (Edited)
Yeah, it's silly, a waste of rubber and damaging to your bike, but it's the bogan mating call. How else will they reproduce?

If you are asking how to troubleshoot the clutch slippage: No troubleshooting is necessary. If it is slipping, it needs a rebuild. If you are mechanically skilled, first read Jess Norton's web posting on the Ninja 400 clutch design problems and how to solve them, then read the service manual section on clutch replacement and/or watch a YouTube video on the process.

If you are not mechanically skilled, get a quote from your dealership. Might be a little costly.
Yeah, the N400 is a bit notorious for clutch issues due to weak springs, parts with more movement than they should have and poorly machined bits.
Practicing burnouts with those things in mind is a great way to burn it up.

I'm no mechanic, but it's potentially just the friction plates in this instance? The N400 with it's weak springs can make them wear more than they should.
If so that's probably a fairly simple task for anyone who can do an oil change and has a torque wrench. There are a bunch of videos online.

Basically it'll be:
  • Ordering new clutch gasket, just in case, might be ok though
  • Ordering new plates and soaking in new oil
  • Drop the oil (optional, alternative is leaning the bike a lot, I'd recommend it though)
  • Open clutch side
  • Release spring plate (slowly undoing each side)
  • Take off cover
  • Take clutch plates and steels out maintaining order (put them face down on something in correct order, so if you do it in reverse its correct)
  • Put new plates in following the reverse order (narrows/wides), i.e. when you pick up an old clutch plate, put in the new one matching the size, coat steels in oil when replacing
  • Attach cover
  • Attach spring plate (slightly tightening so the plate isn't on a weird angle) to torque
  • Reinstall clutch cover with new gasket if the current one is iffy
  • Guess I should add, put new oil in if you dropped it earlier

There's service manuals available around the internet which will explain how to do all of this properly.

Personally, if you're in there anyway, I'd be ordering at least the upgraded springs and thicker plates. Norton/Spears sells them. You'd want the clutch cable spring, and barnett clutch springs, and the barnett friction plates.

Wait and see if anyone calls this out as wrong, as like I mentioned I'm not all that mechanically inclined.
 
#18 ·
Hi @Jim G I think that you are referring to @dbrain 's post. Just read the factory manual for the clutch service. It is pretty straight forward. Actually if you are careful and a bit handy, a clutch is not to difficult for the average guy/gal who is not too scared to work on a bike. It does wonders for helping a guy to understand how they work, and will probably clear up the mystery of clutch cable adjustment too.
 
#19 ·
Yes, I emant dBrain's post. :) My unfavorable comments on the service manual are based on its "disassemble to smallest pieces even if you don't really need to" approach to removing and replacing the rear wheel and the kickstand. Read them to see what I mean. Guaranteed to turn off any amateur mechanic .

Jim G
 
#20 ·
I used to do the occasional rolling burnout on my 2002 R1. It was fun. Never tried to do one on the 400...

Speaking of burnouts, my best one was on my 2004 SV1000. I stopped at a gas station to get gas and went inside to pay with cash without removing my helmet. The B!tch behind the counter was very rude and told me to either remove my helmet or get out, because I could be in there to rob the place. I literally had the $20 bill in my hand to pay for the gas. I said "Screw you then lady!" and walked out. Then I got on my bike and backed it up right in front of the glass doors and did a huge fat smoky burn out right in front of the place...LOL I'm sure she called the cops after that, but if she did, they never found me. /HOOLIGAN
 
#30 ·
44/14 versus 41/14 is only a 44/41 = 7.3% gearing change. But a much larger tire, as Duckman points out, reduces that gearing change percentage (Mounting a larger tire is the same as reducing the rear sprocket's number of teeth). That's almost certainly why Duckman did not get the CEL.

Lots of unexpected, and stupid, things happen when motorcycle designs start using combinations of internal gear ratios and external speed sensors to determine or manage things like speed, gear indicator, and ABS, and riders modify gearing or tire size.

In this case, the collateral bad side effects (the CEL or ABS impairment) tempt riders to remove an important safety feature. Once Kawasaki finally figures out that riders are doing this, and its attorneys warn them about the potential legal liabilities, Kawasaki just might decide to do things the RIGHT way versus the cheapest way.

Jim G
 
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