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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys so I shot my clutch out after somewhat successfully learning how to do a burn out, this light came on as i was pulling onto my street and the gear shifter disappeared, is this more than a clutch? I just check the code and it is ERROR 25 so if you have an experience on this please elaborate on what my steps should be :)

here are some photos:
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Sounds like you modified the gearing? If so, you'll need to jump the safety switch.
 

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Works on my '18 650 Here's a piece of a post on the Versys 300 forum about it. Supposedly some kind of cure.
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Dunno why, it just does. The cure is simple, all you have to do is jump the clutch safety switch at the clutch lever. You can read all about it HERE!
Interesting. Never heard of that before. We have run gearing from 14/41 to 14/44 and never seen this problem. But good to know.

Maybe just an ABS issue???
 

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Interesting. Never heard of that before. We have run gearing from 14/41 to 14/44 and never seen this problem. But good to know.

Maybe just an ABS issue???
Maybe? It's a weir d deal; sometimes it takes awhile show up too, like 150 mi.
I went up a tooth on the front, 'n jumped the switch like @Boat's pic, 'n prolly have 700 mi since, no problem.
I just gotta make sure I'm in neutral or clutch is in when I start the bike. :LOL:
 

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Maybe? It's a weir d deal; sometimes it takes awhile show up too, like 150 mi.
I went up a tooth on the front, 'n jumped the switch like @Boat's pic, 'n prolly have 700 mi since, no problem.
I just gotta make sure I'm in neutral or clutch is in when I start the bike. :LOL:
I’ve gone back and read the thread from the beginning. I have to agree with sbk1198’s posts. There’s no way changing sprockets could cause this problem.

But I totally believe all the people that say they’ve seen it on their bike. 😊
 

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This MIGHT explain what the OP experienced:

I think the error 25 has nothing to do with a sprocket change. Here's why:

The OP says the clutch is slipping now after his "burnout practicing". That means, that when the clutch is slipping, that the rpm of the rear wheel, in whatever gear he happens to be in, no longer matches the ratio of engine rpm to wheel rpm that the ECU has been programmed with, and so the ECU is generating the error 25.

The lesson here is that the 400's clutch is not robust enough to tolerate "burnout practicing'.

Jim G
 

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I really believe that burnouts are abusing your bike. It is not designed for it. What is the point? Spirited riding is fine; even wheelies if you can do them well. But just to make smoke?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I've never done a sprocket change or messed with the sprocket on my bike.

This MIGHT explain what the OP experienced:

I think the error 25 has nothing to do with a sprocket change. Here's why:

The OP says the clutch is slipping now after his "burnout practicing". That means, that when the clutch is slipping, that the rpm of the rear wheel, in whatever gear he happens to be in, no longer matches the ratio of engine rpm to wheel rpm that the ECU has been programmed with, and so the ECU is generating the error 25.

The lesson here is that the 400's clutch is not robust enough to tolerate "burnout practicing'.

Jim G
THIS though, I do believe this could be part of the reason why I'm getting this error code. Do you know by any of a chance a way to troubleshoot this?
 

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I've never done a sprocket change or messed with the sprocket on my bike.



THIS though, I do believe this could be part of the reason why I'm getting this error code. Do you know by any of a chance a way to troubleshoot this?
If you are asking how to "clear" the error, there are instructions on this forum. Just search the forum. If you are asking how to troubleshoot the clutch slippage: No troubleshooting is necessary. If it is slipping, it needs a rebuild. If you are mechanically skilled, first read Jess Norton's web posting on the Ninja 400 clutch design problems and how to solve them, then read the service manual section on clutch replacement and/or watch a YouTube video on the process.

If you are not mechanically skilled, get a quote from your dealership. Might be a little costly.

Lesson learned: Learning to do burnouts, especially on a small displacement motorcycle with too wide a rear tire (for style reasons), is COSTLY. Best to be avoided.

Jim G
 

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I really believe that burnouts are abusing your bike. It is not designed for it. What is the point? Spirited riding is fine; even wheelies if you can do them well. But just to make smoke?
Yeah, it's silly, a waste of rubber and damaging to your bike, but it's the bogan mating call. How else will they reproduce?

If you are asking how to troubleshoot the clutch slippage: No troubleshooting is necessary. If it is slipping, it needs a rebuild. If you are mechanically skilled, first read Jess Norton's web posting on the Ninja 400 clutch design problems and how to solve them, then read the service manual section on clutch replacement and/or watch a YouTube video on the process.

If you are not mechanically skilled, get a quote from your dealership. Might be a little costly.
Yeah, the N400 is a bit notorious for clutch issues due to weak springs, parts with more movement than they should have and poorly machined bits.
Practicing burnouts with those things in mind is a great way to burn it up.

I'm no mechanic, but it's potentially just the friction plates in this instance? The N400 with it's weak springs can make them wear more than they should.
If so that's probably a fairly simple task for anyone who can do an oil change and has a torque wrench. There are a bunch of videos online.

Basically it'll be:
  • Ordering new clutch gasket, just in case, might be ok though
  • Ordering new plates and soaking in new oil
  • Drop the oil (optional, alternative is leaning the bike a lot, I'd recommend it though)
  • Open clutch side
  • Release spring plate (slowly undoing each side)
  • Take off cover
  • Take clutch plates and steels out maintaining order (put them face down on something in correct order, so if you do it in reverse its correct)
  • Put new plates in following the reverse order (narrows/wides), i.e. when you pick up an old clutch plate, put in the new one matching the size, coat steels in oil when replacing
  • Attach cover
  • Attach spring plate (slightly tightening so the plate isn't on a weird angle) to torque
  • Reinstall clutch cover with new gasket if the current one is iffy
  • Guess I should add, put new oil in if you dropped it earlier

There's service manuals available around the internet which will explain how to do all of this properly.

Personally, if you're in there anyway, I'd be ordering at least the upgraded springs and thicker plates. Norton/Spears sells them. You'd want the clutch cable spring, and barnett clutch springs, and the barnett friction plates.

Wait and see if anyone calls this out as wrong, as like I mentioned I'm not all that mechanically inclined.
 

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Zguy: This is a great and mercifully brief (comapred to the service manual) description of the process. I'll save this for If I ever need to do my clutch.

Jim G
 

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Hi @Jim G I think that you are referring to @dbrain 's post. Just read the factory manual for the clutch service. It is pretty straight forward. Actually if you are careful and a bit handy, a clutch is not to difficult for the average guy/gal who is not too scared to work on a bike. It does wonders for helping a guy to understand how they work, and will probably clear up the mystery of clutch cable adjustment too.
 

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Hi @Jim G I think that you are referring to @dbrain 's post. Just read the factory manual for the clutch service. It is pretty straight forward. Actually if you are careful and a bit handy, a clutch is not to difficult for the average guy/gal who is not too scared to work on a bike. It does wonders for helping a guy to understand how they work, and will probably clear up the mystery of clutch cable adjustment too.
Yes, I emant dBrain's post. :) My unfavorable comments on the service manual are based on its "disassemble to smallest pieces even if you don't really need to" approach to removing and replacing the rear wheel and the kickstand. Read them to see what I mean. Guaranteed to turn off any amateur mechanic .

Jim G
 

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I used to do the occasional rolling burnout on my 2002 R1. It was fun. Never tried to do one on the 400...

Speaking of burnouts, my best one was on my 2004 SV1000. I stopped at a gas station to get gas and went inside to pay with cash without removing my helmet. The B!tch behind the counter was very rude and told me to either remove my helmet or get out, because I could be in there to rob the place. I literally had the $20 bill in my hand to pay for the gas. I said "Screw you then lady!" and walked out. Then I got on my bike and backed it up right in front of the glass doors and did a huge fat smoky burn out right in front of the place...LOL I'm sure she called the cops after that, but if she did, they never found me. /HOOLIGAN
 
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