Vortex Clip-Ons

21169 Views 17 Replies 8 Participants Last post by Edd09, Aug 9, 2021

Kiwi Rider

Discussion Starter · Apr 10, 2018 (Edited)

4

I decided to get the Vortex clip ons in the end as I'd had them on my last bike and quite liked them. Stick with what you know eh.

They are just a generic 41mm clip on with a 7 degree drop and no riser. So no guarantee they aren't going to foul with anything on the N400 but I think they should be OK. I will let you all know for sure if there are issues!

So they arrived in the freight today and I made a start after work striping the all the OEM handle bar parts off the bike.

The 6mm cap screws that hold the bar ends on have loctite on them and are mongrels to get off. I suggest using a rattle gun as I did.

To remove the OEM grips (so you can slide the clutch perch off) use a long thin screw driver and slide it up between the bar and the inside of the grip. Spray some lubricating spray into the gap and wiggle the screw driver around a bit. You will be surprised how easy the grips now twist off the bar.

Once I got the OEM bar off I set it up on a stool along side the Vortex one to compare drop angle and heights etc. You will see from the photos below that the OEM bar has a slightly larger drop angle. The difference in height measured at the end of the bars is 23mm.

Pipe Door handle Metal

It looks like I'm going to have to slide the triple clamps down the forks 5mm to give me enough clamping area for the Vortex clip ons as they have a higher clamp height. I'm not too bothered about that as it will sharpen up the steering if anything.

One tip for newbies to the clip on fitting game: Cover your whole handle bar/cockpit area with thick dust covers so that you dont scratch any part of the bikes body work whilst you are working. You dont have to use 70's throw back curtains like I do tho.

To be continued...

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SDM!

· #2 · Apr 10, 2018

Kiwi Rider said:
To remove the OEM grips (so you can slide the clutch perch off) use a long thin screw driver and slide it up between the bar and the inside of the grip. Spray some lubricating spray into the gap and wiggle the screw driver around a bit. You will be surprised how easy the grips now twist off the bar.

If you have an air compressor handy its much easier to use it. Place the nozzle on the bar close as you can get it to the grip blast it away, it takes a little assistance but you dont have to worry about scratching the bars. You can do the same putting them on, Slip the grip on just a little bit another few blast of air and whala your done. Just my two cents on this.

How much were your Vortex?

I went with a cheaper brand around $75.00 sucks being a racer on a budget but I will be having a blast I am sure :grin:

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Kiwi Rider

Discussion Starter · #3 · Apr 10, 2018

SDM! said:
If you have an air compressor handy its much easier to use it. Place the nozzle on the bar close as you can get it to the grip blast it away, it takes a little assistance but you dont have to worry about scratching the bars. You can do the same putting them on, Slip the grip on just a little bit another few blast of air and whala your done. Just my two cents on this.

How much were your Vortex?

I went with a cheaper brand around $75.00 sucks being a racer on a budget but I will be having a blast I am sure :grin:

Hey that's a great tip on the compressed air, cheers. I just got myself a compressor about 6 months ago, very handy.

I paid $200 NZD which is about 7,500 Phillipine Peso. I got a 20% discount as the local Vortex agent is a racer I know personally.
Best price I saw on ebay was $127 USD but the postage to NZ killed it.

Kiwi Rider

Discussion Starter · #4 · Apr 14, 2018 (Edited)

10

OK so they are on and tested and I'm very happy :smile:
I had these same 7 degree drop clip ons on my CBR and it lowered the bar height by about 2" from memory, so they transformed the riding position on that bike.
Not so with the Ninja as the riser is not so high on the OEM bars. So don't be concerned about ending up with a radically different riding position that is going to wreck your wrists etc. It's just a nice little lowering that gives it that bit more sporty feel and look.

The good news also is that they dont foul with any part of the N400. When installed so that your levers just have clearance off the front of the fairing on full lock you will still have enough clearance between the fuel tank and the grip for you fingers on the opposite handle bar.
And, this position gives you an acceptable bar angle (looking down from above), very similar to the standard angle I would imagine.
I did slide the triple tree down the forks 5mm though to have enough stanchion showing for the taller clamp of the Vortex. It leaves the fork caps just proud by about 1mm, looks best IMO.

Ive taken quite a few photos as I know what it's like when you are trying to decide whether to buy something or not. I had trouble with glare off the aluminium fork caps!

Windshield Vehicle Automotive exterior Motorcycle accessories Motor vehicle

Motor vehicle Auto part Motorcycle accessories Vehicle Engine

Auto part Vehicle Automotive lighting Car Engine

Optical instrument Camera accessory Cameras & optics Photography Bicycle handlebar

These next two photos are supposed to show the clearance at lock to lock but probably hard to tell. Trust me, its all good!

Vehicle Motor vehicle Auto part Motorcycle accessories Motorcycle

Auto part Vehicle Car Engine Wheel

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Tire Vehicle Motorcycle accessories

There's always a fly in the ointment though eh... When I went to put the front brake lever assembly back on I found the inside corner of the master cylinder just fouled with the clamp of the right hand clip on. I could have got round this by sliding the clip on bar right out to its full extension but then a)the bars would have been sticking out slightly further than stock and b) I think the bars look better sticking through the clamp and into the cockpit a little. So I filed down the clamp a bit instead. See below. Probably looks a bit drastic in the photo ha ha.

Technology Glasses

But I rectified it with a black marker pen... who me rough?

Lastly: Before you try to refit the brake master cylinder you need to remove this locating clip as it prevents the line coming out of the master cylinder from going low enough. It screws on to the bottom of the top yoke and can be removed with a 5mm allen key used upside down. Yes its a little fiddly to get to.

But don't let those two little things put you off getting a set of these. I think it's a great mod and they are lighter to boot. I can't say I noticed any significant difference in control of the bike, but definitely no negative effects. Just a bit more of a lean into the wind.
Two of my riding buddies both thought they looked better than the stock ones. I'll let you decide.

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Engine-R

· #5 · Apr 14, 2018

Congrats Kiwi, that looks absolute great.

falkdal

· #6 · Nov 18, 2018

I may be mistaken here but I'm pretty sure the clipons are intended to mount UNDER the triple clamp, not above it. I am waiting on my own set to arrive and that's how I'll be installing them on the racebike (where I want as aggressive a riding position as possible). I also prefer as wide a bar as possible for better leverage so I should be able to avoid your clearance issue that way.

By the way, sliding the forks up 5mm is a pretty drastic geometry change. You probably notice it less on the street, but on the track that would be a major change and could turn a stable bike into a twitchy one that folds the front. We would usually play with fork height in 1-2mm increments up or down to dial in a racebike - the clip-ons shouldn't necessitate that kind of geometry. I'm very curious (and a bit concerned now) that this kit is generic and won't clear the bodywork when mounted under the triple, guess I'll find out.

I know the Woodcraft mounts under the triple and has a riser to bring it up enough to clear the bodywork, my friend is installing that so we'll be able to compare notes.

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Kiwi Rider

Discussion Starter · #7 · Nov 18, 2018 (Edited)

falkdal said:
I may be mistaken here but I'm pretty sure the clipons are intended to mount UNDER the triple clamp, not above it.

The Woodcrafts are designed to go under the top yoke which is why they have the two piece clamp and the riser to clear the top of the side fairings.
The Vortex's are designed to go on top of the yoke hence they dont have either of the aforementioned features.
I've owned and used both types of clip on.
Obviously you can fit them under the yoke if you drop your fork stanchions out of the top yoke to slip them in there, but you wont have enough clearance on your side fairings.

The 41mm clip on that Vortex make are not specifically designed for the Ninja 400 rather a generic design hence the small clearance issue I had with the right hand one fouling the brake master cylinder.

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sbk1198

· #8 · Nov 18, 2018

Kiwi Rider said:
The Woodcrafts are designed to go under the top yoke which is why they have the two piece clamp and the riser to clear the top of the side fairings.
The Vortex's are designed to go on top of the yoke hence they dont have either of the aforementioned features.
I've owned and used both types of clip on.
Obviously you can fit them under the yoke if you drop your fork stanchions out of the top yoke to slip them in there, but you wont have enough clearance on your side fairings.

The 41mm clip on that Vortex make are not specifically designed for the Ninja 400 rather a generic design hence the small clearance issue I had with the right hand one fouling the brake master cylinder.

^All of this.

I'm surprised you went with the Vortex then. I went with the Woodcraft ones because I can mount them under the clamp, and therefore lower the bar height even more than with the Vortex. I had the Vortex clip-ons on the R3, then switched to Woodcraft to try them on and I liked them better. So when I got the 400, I put the Woodcraft ones on the 400 since they're the same diameter, and put the Vortex clip-ons back on the R3. There is a noticeable difference in height between the 2 brands, and I think for racing/track day purposes, the Woodcrafts are better.

Kiwi Rider

Discussion Starter · #9 · Nov 18, 2018

sbk1198 said:
^All of this.

I'm surprised you went with the Vortex then. I went with the Woodcraft ones because I can mount them under the clamp, and therefore lower the bar height even more than with the Vortex. I had the Vortex clip-ons on the R3, then switched to Woodcraft to try them on and I liked them better. So when I got the 400, I put the Woodcraft ones on the 400 since they're the same diameter, and put the Vortex clip-ons back on the R3. There is a noticeable difference in height between the 2 brands, and I think for racing/track day purposes, the Woodcrafts are better.

A supplier mate of mine had a pair sitting on the shelf he shifted onto me at a good price. I'd had them before and quite like the look so it was an easy buy.
Nothing against the Woodies at all.

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sbk1198

· #10 · Nov 18, 2018

Kiwi Rider said:
A supplier mate of mine had a pair sitting on the shelf he shifted onto me at a good price. I'd had them before and quite like the look so it was an easy buy.
Nothing against the Woodies at all.

Woodies! haha...I'm gonna have to start using that term from now on :grin:

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b0Xcrash

· #11 · Nov 19, 2018

Thanks Kiwi.

I like the Vortex as well because you can put them above the top triples and run street trim as well, a 5mm drop does not seem drastic to me, but maybe I am all wrong....heck I am usually dropping 10-15mm on my track bikes and still have great stability.
I will admit I am not a suspension expert geometric engineer. :grin:

What was the weight difference in the Vorts over the stock, each clip-on?

Kiwi Rider

Discussion Starter · #12 · Nov 19, 2018

b0Xcrash said:
Thanks Kiwi.

I like the Vortex as well because you can put them above the top triples and run street trim as well, a 5mm drop does not seem drastic to me, but maybe I am all wrong....heck I am usually dropping 10-15mm on my track bikes and still have great stability.
I will admit I am not a suspension expert geometric engineer. :grin:

What was the weight difference in the Vorts over the stock, each clip-on?

Yes I agree with you about the 5mm drop not having a big influence. I didnt notice any change at all in my street riding.
Maybe I'm just not 'in tune' enough either Lol.

Each clip on was 405 grams (.9lb) lighter than stock. :nerd:

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falkdal

· #13 · Nov 21, 2018

Hey guys. On the clearance issue if one were to try and mount them under the triple, what parts are interfering? Is it the bars/hands holding bars hitting the bodywork, or is it more the throttle cables and housing? I ask because with the Motion Pro revolver throttle kit the cables exit the housing on top rather than from underneath, so that might help clearance issues? Similarly would removing the clutch side electrical housing and using a mini start/stop switch allow enough room?

I am still waiting on mine to be delivered, and the bike is not ready to be put together with bodywork for some time, sorry for asking questions I could eventually test myself once all the parts are here.

Kiwi Rider

Discussion Starter · #14 · Nov 22, 2018

falkdal said:
Hey guys. On the clearance issue if one were to try and mount them under the triple, what parts are interfering? Is it the bars/hands holding bars hitting the bodywork, or is it more the throttle cables and housing? I ask because with the Motion Pro revolver throttle kit the cables exit the housing on top rather than from underneath, so that might help clearance issues? Similarly would removing the clutch side electrical housing and using a mini start/stop switch allow enough room?

I am still waiting on mine to be delivered, and the bike is not ready to be put together with bodywork for some time, sorry for asking questions I could eventually test myself once all the parts are here.

Just went out and had a measure up. There is 50mm clearance between the bottom of the switch block and the top of the fairing on the clutch side and 45mm on the throttle side. If I was to take them off and put them underneath the top yoke this drops the clip ons by 50mm. So there's your clearance gone.
But it gets worse. As you turn the bars towards the tank and the front of the fairing the clearance reduces to as little as 15mm clearance at the tank end. So, as I said previously, it's a no go with OEM fairings. Race fairings maybe yes.

Something else to consider: If you remove the OEM bars and fit Wood craft clip ons or some other brand UNDER the top yoke then you have at least an inch of exposed fork stanchion showing above the top yoke. Cool if you like that look but odd if you dont. And if you drop the front end a little like I have then your showing even more of it.

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falkdal

· #15 · Nov 26, 2018

Kiwi Rider said:
Just went out and had a measure up. There is 50mm clearance between the bottom of the switch block and the top of the fairing on the clutch side and 45mm on the throttle side. If I was to take them off and put them underneath the top yoke this drops the clip ons by 50mm. So there's your clearance gone.
But it gets worse. As you turn the bars towards the tank and the front of the fairing the clearance reduces to as little as 15mm clearance at the tank end. So, as I said previously, it's a no go with OEM fairings. Race fairings maybe yes.

Something else to consider: If you remove the OEM bars and fit Wood craft clip ons or some other brand UNDER the top yoke then you have at least an inch of exposed fork stanchion showing above the top yoke. Cool if you like that look but odd if you dont. And if you drop the front end a little like I have then your showing even more of it.

Thanks, much appreciated. The clip-ons arrived the other day and am in the process of installing them with the MP Revolver 2 kit. For now I'm mounting them above the triple - the bike doesn't have any bodywork or tank now so there's no way to check interference. Once the bike is all back together with the race bodywork I'll see if I can make it work below the triple.

I don't mind the look, a lot of R3 and other lightweight race bikes in AFM has forks poking out of the triple for the same reason. For the street I agree it would look a bit odd.

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Shadow12345

· #16 · Jul 12, 2021

Kiwi Rider said:
I decided to get the Vortex clip ons in the end as I'd had them on my last bike and quite liked them. Stick with what you know eh.

They are just a generic 41mm clip on with a 7 degree drop and no riser. So no guarantee they aren't going to foul with anything on the N400 but I think they should be OK. I will let you all know for sure if there are issues!

View attachment 827

So they arrived in the freight today and I made a start after work striping the all the OEM handle bar parts off the bike.

The 6mm cap screws that hold the bar ends on have loctite on them and are mongrels to get off. I suggest using a rattle gun as I did.

To remove the OEM grips (so you can slide the clutch perch off) use a long thin screw driver and slide it up between the bar and the inside of the grip. Spray some lubricating spray into the gap and wiggle the screw driver around a bit. You will be surprised how easy the grips now twist off the bar.

Once I got the OEM bar off I set it up on a stool along side the Vortex one to compare drop angle and heights etc. You will see from the photos below that the OEM bar has a slightly larger drop angle. The difference in height measured at the end of the bars is 23mm.

View attachment 829

View attachment 831

It looks like I'm going to have to slide the triple clamps down the forks 5mm to give me enough clamping area for the Vortex clip ons as they have a higher clamp height. I'm not too bothered about that as it will sharpen up the steering if anything.

One tip for newbies to the clip on fitting game: Cover your whole handle bar/cockpit area with thick dust covers so that you dont scratch any part of the bikes body work whilst you are working. You dont have to use 70's throw back curtains like I do tho.

View attachment 833

To be continued...

How did you lower the triple clamp, had to retreat halfway through because I couldn't figure it out

Kiwi Rider

Discussion Starter · #17 · Jul 12, 2021

Shadow12345 said:
How did you lower the triple clamp, had to retreat halfway through because I couldn't figure it out

slacken off the locking bolts on the lower yoke fully then really carefully and slowly loosen off the two 6mm cap screws that lock the top yoke. I use a rubber hammer and keep tapping the top yoke until it starts to move with each blow of the hammer. You dont want the triple tree to drop too quickly on you as it's hard to lift it back up again if you go too far.

Edd09

· #18 · Aug 9, 2021

2

Kiwi Rider said:
slacken off the locking bolts on the lower yoke fully then really carefully and slowly loosen off the two 6mm cap screws that lock the top yoke. I use a rubber hammer and keep tapping the top yoke until it starts to move with each blow of the hammer. You dont want the triple tree to drop too quickly on you as it's hard to lift it back up again if you go too far.

just wanted to ask if anyone tried to use the bonamici clip ons on a stock body work? Cause I found a generic type that matches the bonamici clip ons. I want to mount them under the yoke. Thanks in advance guys.

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