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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hooked up a waterproof USB type A and C power outlet / voltage gauge today:



With the lid closed, the voltage gauge is still visible:



My iPhone charges pretty quick with the USB-C to lightning cable from apple.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Where did you get it? I'm sold.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JGV2HML

You can tap into the accessory power/ground leads right in the loom next to that punchout, assuming you have the accessory relay kit already installed ($20 from Kawasaki, or about half as much for a comparable unit anywhere else - it plugs into the harness right below the punchout and provides power to the leads right next to it as well as the ones below the pillion seat).

The punchout is removed from below with a philips screwdriver. Solder/crimp in some 4mm bullet connectors to make everything clean, or just splice/tap in if you don't care.

No need to remove the fairings.
 

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JGV2HML

You can tap into the accessory power/ground leads right in the loom next to that punchout, assuming you have the accessory relay kit already installed ($20 from Kawasaki, or about half as much for a comparable unit anywhere else - it plugs into the harness right below the punchout and provides power to the leads right next to it as well as the ones below the pillion seat).

The punchout is removed from below with a philips screwdriver. Solder/crimp in some 4mm bullet connectors to make everything clean, or just splice/tap in if you don't care.

No need to remove the fairings.
Awesome! Thank you so much!:grin:
 

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Thanks everyone to great posts. I took your cues and installed a similar model:

BlueFire Upgraded Aluminum Alloy Quick Charge 3.0 USB Car Charger Socket & 2.4A USB Port IP66 Waterproof Dual USB Power Outlet with Voltmeter for Car Boat Marine Rv Motorcycle(Silver-Green) Amazon.com: BlueFire Upgraded Aluminum Alloy Quick Charge 3.0 USB Car Charger Socket & 2.4A USB Port IP66 Waterproof Dual USB Power Outlet with Voltmeter for Car Boat Marine Rv Motorcycle(Silver-Green)

I got the green readout with aluminum trim, for the green readout of course!

12979



12978


Th install was super easy. I purchased the relay from my local shop. Pop the side fairing off, install the relay, put side fairing back on, install usb, and attach wires that came with the outlet to the awaiting barrel connectors on the bike.

You do have to purchase a male and female barrel connector from your local hardware store and crimp them onto the outlet supplied wires.

This now makes monitoring voltage output super easy. Important when trying to figure out how much electrical draw I can accommodate fro the 400. Installed my heated jacket thermostat as well. See that writeup.
12980
 

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Update: the above outlet has succumbed to the vibrations. What was first a blown fuse, replaced, and worked a bit. Now, it is just a rattle. I replaced it with a similar one, that is all over amazon. Green usb ports, obviously! Went for the full black look this time. I think it looks better.

17552


17553
 

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Hooked up a waterproof USB type A and C power outlet / voltage gauge today:



With the lid closed, the voltage gauge is still visible:



My iPhone charges pretty quick with the USB-C to lightning cable from apple.
I know I'm bringing this back from the dead but I think it's worthwhile as I didn't even notice that knockout and wiring we're already there til I saw a video on it and there are probably a ton of ppl who also don't. Anyhow this can easily be done for under $30 with a relay, outlet, electrical tape, and 4mm male and female bullet connectors. I listed the outlet $15 and relay $9 come with 2 that I used below. It's not difficult but it's really tight so best to do when you already have the left fairing removed. The outlet I listed I had to cut those circle things off the wires(sorry not sure what they are called and don't care to look it up) and put the male bullet on the positive and female on the negative and they connect right in to the provided factory wiring. The other thing tricky a bit is that outlet was a real tight fit, there's no threading in the knockout but I just kept turning it and very slowly but surely it went down, toward the end it's tough to grip but I put on some rubber garden gloves. That YouTube video helped me a good bit.


uxcell Car Motor DC 12V 40A 4 Pin SPST Relay 2 Pcs Amazon.com: uxcell Car Motor DC 12V 40A 4 Pin SPST Relay 2 Pcs: Industrial & Scientific

12V USB Outlet, ADSDIA 12V/24V 36W Aluminum QC3.0 USB Car Charger Waterproof Dual Fast Charger Socket Power Adapter Outlet with LED Display for Car Boat Marine Motorcycle Scooter RV Golf Cart DIY Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PP7RLT...t_i_V7A8EKBKQF7A7BRXPA7Y?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
19049
 

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Uh, yeah, good solution, mentioned before, but also, it seems to me like most of these outlets are coming out of China, and the quality is definitely suspect. I have gone through one in my N400. My gf has gone through two in her SV1000. It's a bit more vibration'y, and seems to separate the internals. It becomes a rattle. Just tried a new one with a rubber washer on the inside, as well as the outside. Used the rubber cover o-ring from the old one to double up on the new one. Trying to reduce vibrations. Super convenient, but would love to find a 'bomber' one....
 

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Just completed the same voltmeter USB on the "new" Ninja in my shop. Fairings are still off. Frame sliders,, rear spools,, mirrors and integrated tail/turn already done.. windshield on the way,, grips,, Have a few more goodies to go.....more wiring to route.. stay tuned.....
🐉
 

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Just completed the same voltmeter USB on the "new" Ninja in my shop. Fairings are still off. Frame sliders,, rear spools,, mirrors and integrated tail/turn already done.. windshield on the way,, grips,, Have a few more goodies to go.....more wiring to route.. stay tuned.....
🐉
Bet its way way easier with the fairing off, lol... I dread taking them off and was able to get it all done without removing but real tight and alot of patience.
 

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Uh, yeah, good solution, mentioned before, but also, it seems to me like most of these outlets are coming out of China, and the quality is definitely suspect. I have gone through one in my N400. My gf has gone through two in her SV1000. It's a bit more vibration'y, and seems to separate the internals. It becomes a rattle. Just tried a new one with a rubber washer on the inside, as well as the outside. Used the rubber cover o-ring from the old one to double up on the new one. Trying to reduce vibrations. Super convenient, but would love to find a 'bomber' one....
:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

There are some small manufacturers in China that do not produce very good quality products.
I don't understand why you have to use the original reserved hole for installation.
Maybe you can choose another solution, many users in China, lower price and better quality.
The quality of this brand is very good.This company is specialized in the production of mobile phone bracket and charging cable company. It doesn't need to be connected to the original circuit, but directly connected to the battery. It only costs $20.
Support fast charging
19198
19199
 

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Amazon.com: YonHan USB Type C Charger Socket with 5V/3A USB-C & Quick Charge 3.0 Ports, Waterproof Power Outlet with LED Digital Voltmeter for 12/24V Marine Boat Car Truck Motorcycle and More : Automotive

You can tap into the accessory power/ground leads right in the loom next to that punchout, assuming you have the accessory relay kit already installed ($20 from Kawasaki, or about half as much for a comparable unit anywhere else - it plugs into the harness right below the punchout and provides power to the leads right next to it as well as the ones below the pillion seat).

The punchout is removed from below with a philips screwdriver. Solder/crimp in some 4mm bullet connectors to make everything clean, or just splice/tap in if you don't care.

No need to remove the fairings.
How will i know whats the positive and negative wire from the bike the color of the wires are the same its both black
 

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A simple 12V test light will do it. Use the clip-on end to ground to the battery ground or any part of the grounded frame. The other end is sharp enough to pierce through the wiring's protective coating. The positive wire will light up the handle of the tool, the negative will not. All it does is complete the circuit inside the test light.
6/12 Volt Circuit Tester (harborfreight.com)
 

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And an update, onto my third one. These things are not very durable. The n400 does not vibrate in a way that would expect this. Going to take the old one apart and see what seems to be breaking… Love the dual outlet with voltmeter. But come on. Seems like these are made from glass. An unfortunate minority upholding the stereotype of the majority.
 

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There it is. The innards. Exposing the reason.
White Light Product Camera lens Font


Passive circuit component Circuit component Hardware programmer Camera lens Microcontroller


The solder becomes a sharp break point, and the initial bend from straight up to 90 degrees from install starts the weakening. Then its clearly enough vibrations to slowly weaken the bend points at the solder. This also explains weird low voltage instead of just off, with only 1 of the two broken. It would just require a rubber mat under it and a wide rubber band around them to keep them insulated and stop the vibrations/shaking. Arrgh.
 

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If you put some marine grade heat shrink tubing over the wires and housing (together) as they leave housing, to encourage them to bend somewhere other than where the solder is, that can save you. This is one of the (many) reasons automotive harnesses are crimped rather than soldered -- because the solder leeches down the wire making it brittle just beyond. But even crimps can break this way with enough bending -- I did the heat shrink trick to my front ABS connector and wire (together) after I heard of a few folks experiencing a similar break right at the crimp -- mine won't break there! :)
 
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