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The bike was in netural, you can always start the bike when in neutral without the clutch pulled...

@Rich T yeah all tight and was in neutral, 100%
What kind of battery was it? You gotta voltmeter to check battery at rest 'n under load? Unless you know the staus of the battery, everything else is just guess work.
 

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Unless you know the staus of the battery, everything else is just guess work.
Agreed.

And you want to measure the battery voltage at the clamps, not at the terminals, just to be sure.

And you want a reading while you're holding the starter button pressed (and "nothing" is happening)...

The gear position sensor (which it sounds like is possibly misbehaving?) is an analog component, so it is sensitive to a good battery charge for sure.

Unfortunately, it's also a mechanical component (like a rotary potentiometer, I believe), so it can fail or fall out of calibration -- but I'd expect your dash "N" light to be confused as well if that was the case...

One thing that might also be worth trying is reseating its connectors (and possibly putting some dielectric grease on them to keep moisture out?) which are inside a rubber boot near the ECU?
 

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What kind of battery was it? You gotta voltmeter to check battery at rest 'n under load? Unless you know the staus of the battery, everything else is just guess work.
Agreed.

And you want to measure the battery voltage at the clamps, not at the terminals, just to be sure.

And you want a reading while you're holding the starter button pressed (and "nothing" is happening)...

The gear position sensor (which it sounds like is possibly misbehaving?) is an analog component, so it is sensitive to a good battery charge for sure.

Unfortunately, it's also a mechanical component (like a rotary potentiometer, I believe), so it can fail or fall out of calibration -- but I'd expect your dash "N" light to be confused as well if that was the case...

One thing that might also be worth trying is reseating its connectors (and possibly putting some dielectric grease on them to keep moisture out?) which are inside a rubber boot near the ECU?

Okay I went on a short stop ride today, prior to exiting my house and starting the bike voltage dropped to 11.5v underload when starting which is fine, and second time short afterwards it started with no issues.
 

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Same issue. Today I had an appointment to have the 24 000 km maintenance and lo and behold, the bike does not start. The dashboard lights came on, but when pressing the start switch: nothing. I tried it all: first gear, neutral, clutch lever pulled, side stand up, side stand down, the works. Nothing. Even tried pushing it in 2nd and 3rd gear. Quickly gave up on that idea.

I got on the phone with the dealership's mechanic and he told me how to bypass the starter relay. I did that and the starter would whine a bit like it had no power. So I suspected the battery, checked the voltage and got 12.67 V reading. The shop manual says it needs a minimum of 12.6 V (though it was not clear that it for starting or just normal operation). Got on the phone again with the dealer and asked him about that and the service manager said that he thinks the battery needs about 14 V to start but he wasn't quite sure.

So, I hooked the battery to the battery tender and will leave it until tomorrow. So far, it has more than 13 V. Tomorrow morning I will take it to the dealer and have it checked out. I strongly suspect and hope that it is just the battery.
 

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Same issue. Today I had an appointment to have the 24 000 km maintenance and lo and behold, the bike does not start. The dashboard lights came on, but when pressing the start switch: nothing. I tried it all: first gear, neutral, clutch lever pulled, side stand up, side stand down, the works. Nothing. Even tried pushing it in 2nd and 3rd gear. Quickly gave up on that idea.

I got on the phone with the dealership's mechanic and he told me how to bypass the starter relay. I did that and the starter would whine a bit like it had no power. So I suspected the battery, checked the voltage and got 12.67 V reading. The shop manual says it needs a minimum of 12.6 V (though it was not clear that it for starting or just normal operation). Got on the phone again with the dealer and asked him about that and the service manager said that he thinks the battery needs about 14 V to start but he wasn't quite sure.

So, I hooked the battery to the battery tender and will leave it until tomorrow. So far, it has more than 13 V. Tomorrow morning I will take it to the dealer and have it checked out. I strongly suspect and hope that it is just the battery.
From what I see and tested the battery maxes out at about 13.2V after charging (while the engine is off).

I can also confirm that even if the battery shows 12.9V it could still be 'dead' and not start / give you problems, no matter how much you charge it. I read about it at other forums too.

If you dont ride for however many time, you should always keep it above 12.9V so it wont degrade. Also, it still hasn't happened to me again as I started putting some mileage back again, but I read in another thread here that if that happens you should try and move the bike whilist trying to start as it may be some sensor.
 

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Still doing it after recharging. The dealer had no mechanic to check the battery on Saturday, so I will bring it in again for a check Monday. Just to make sure that I don't spend the money needlessly replacing the battery if the problem is elsewhere.
 

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Hi all have a 400 allso and have a starting problem as well battry is good as the starter turns perfectly but I tried priming befor starting as well but can not seem to find out what it culed be So wat happens is I tern the key to on poseishe swich the kill swech on and hear it prime then I heat the starter it terns over like nomel do this +- 3 to 5 time (starter trens perfecly ) and evenly it starts when it on there are not problems at all but thos Hepens all the time and the bike is a 2018 but it only have 3000km/ 1800+- ml on the clock any help with this to please help 🙂 if posebel
 

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Ok will check the battery as from your recommendation lats hope that is it as the starter turns like a charm so rhay y I thort it can not be the battery but lat me give that a try firs and see thank you for you in put
 

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So I got the bike back. The battery is OK, they did not find anything wrong. They even put the ECU on a different bike. So after they took it apart and put it back together, it works. Their theory is that there may have been a bad contact either from vibration or corrosion.

On the plus side, apparently my bike is very well maintained. :cool:
 

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Today I had an issue anothe time starting. You can hear the fuel priming but the bike doesn't respond. Took a video while doing so too. Only after when I pulled in the clutch (it was on netural, there was no need), it had difficuly turning but it started. Is is the battery? What are the odds of it being the fuel pump / fuel filter / fuse?

 

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So it started after you pulled in the clutch lever? But cranked slow like the battery was weak?
If yes, then I would think battery first and then starter second.

If you can take it somewhere and have them charge it, like O'Reilly's here in the USA(which is where I work my second job) can test the battery to make sure it is good or tell you it is near the end of it's life, and put it on a charger for you.
I have chargers at home myself.

Based on the video, right, it does nothing almost as if it did not recognize the bike was in neutral, or clutch was not engaged or kickstand safety. Or in the wiring or starter switch/kill switch, but if that was the case with kill switch or kickstand down while in gear, the fuel pump does not even prime/run I think.
If the pump primes and works we can probably rule out alot of those systems as well as pump and etc.

If bike is in gear and kick stand down, it does not prime the pump until kickstand is up or bike is shift into neutral. Clutch, at least on mine has no impact, but if I did not have the switch jumpered it would also act the same I believe.
If the kill switch is off, same thing pump does not prime but the gauges and everything light up and the RPM's go through the self-test.

This issue would be more in the charging and starting system if the fuel pump primes and turns on fine.

But the bike will start if in neutral with the kickstand down, it is just when you shift into first with the clutch pulled in it does not like, if the kickstand is still down.(without testing if I remember right)
Clutch not engaged, and not starting, if it thinks its not in neutral is a easy work around. Jumper the connector on the clutch switch mounted on the clutch perch. The same thing we do for the CEL and flashing blank gear indicator when we change the gearing. I did this because I changed my gearing.

Of course have to be careful starting bike with it in gear. :)

The only other thing I can think of that might be far fetched is something with that tip-over switch or relay that prevents the bike from running if it becomes damaged or takes a hit from dropping the bike.
But I also think that kills the fuel pump.
Or wiring or grounds for the starting system or any safety related to the starter not engaging at all, but other systems working.

At least this is my thoughts for what they are worth, I could be totally wrong and its something else.
 

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So it started after you pulled in the clutch lever? But cranked slow like the battery was weak?
If yes, then I would think battery first and then starter second.

If you can take it somewhere and have them charge it, like O'Reilly's here in the USA(which is where I work my second job) can test the battery to make sure it is good or tell you it is near the end of it's life, and put it on a charger for you.
I have chargers at home myself.

Based on the video, right, it does nothing almost as if it did not recognize the bike was in neutral, or clutch was not engaged or kickstand safety. Or in the wiring or starter switch/kill switch, but if that was the case with kill switch or kickstand down while in gear, the fuel pump does not even prime/run I think.
If the pump primes and works we can probably rule out alot of those systems as well as pump and etc.

If bike is in gear and kick stand down, it does not prime the pump until kickstand is up or bike is shift into neutral. Clutch, at least on mine has no impact, but if I did not have the switch jumpered it would also act the same I believe.
If the kill switch is off, same thing pump does not prime but the gauges and everything light up and the RPM's go through the self-test.

This issue would be more in the charging and starting system if the fuel pump primes and turns on fine.

But the bike will start if in neutral with the kickstand down, it is just when you shift into first with the clutch pulled in it does not like, if the kickstand is still down.(without testing if I remember right)
Clutch not engaged, and not starting, if it thinks its not in neutral is a easy work around. Jumper the connector on the clutch switch mounted on the clutch perch. The same thing we do for the CEL and flashing blank gear indicator when we change the gearing. I did this because I changed my gearing.

Of course have to be careful starting bike with it in gear. :)

The only other thing I can think of that might be far fetched is something with that tip-over switch or relay that prevents the bike from running if it becomes damaged or takes a hit from dropping the bike.
But I also think that kills the fuel pump.
Or wiring or grounds for the starting system or any safety related to the starter not engaging at all, but other systems working.

At least this is my thoughts for what they are worth, I could be totally wrong and its something else.
When the previous OEM battery gave me trouble (Which I replaced 4 months ago) when I pressed to start it gave me a tick tick tick sound. Not on this occasion.

I installed the new battery myself according to all the instructions (I have a suitable charger), however, the battery production date was December 2016. Which put it to 5 years of shelf life. I activated it with the acid pack and all, but if you look at Yuasa website they say that the storage life for a non activated AGM battery is 5 years. Mine is not Yuasa but I think you could take that as reference.

According to all of that, what's your take on this? If you look at the troubleshooting guide at the service manual it could either be a bad battery or some switch. Bike has 15,300 km's.
 

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Today I had an issue anothe time starting. You can hear the fuel priming but the bike doesn't respond. Took a video while doing so too. Only after when I pulled in the clutch (it was on netural, there was no need), it had difficuly turning but it started. Is is the battery? What are the odds of it being the fuel pump / fuel filter / fuse?

You're gonna need a multimeter to check possible causes.

If the battery is good, needs at least 12.6V to start. And voltage should be at 14.5~14.9 V when under varying RPM's and load.

Check basics like air filter, and battery connection tightness, fuses. Check that the clutch safety switch at the handlebar is not broken off, take it apart and check for dirt and corrosion between the contacts.

Check the starter relay. It's in section 16.45 of the service manual. You can bypass this by jumping the terminals of the relay. If the jumper bypass works the relay is toast.

Even if the bike starts and voltage drops to below 12.6V, the alternator or R/R are toast. You'll have to check which is faulty.

Good luck!

PS, do yourself a favor and get a voltmeter you can attach to the auxiliary DC outlet of the bike. Then you know what the voltage is at all times. I do this to all my vehicles.
 
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Today I had an issue anothe time starting. You can hear the fuel priming but the bike doesn't respond. Took a video while doing so too. Only after when I pulled in the clutch (it was on netural, there was no need), it had difficuly turning but it started. Is is the battery? What are the odds of it being the fuel pump / fuel filter / fuse?

That was exactly what my bike did before i got the battery tender, even that crackling sound when you press the start button. The battery tender solved the problem for me, it has been 2 years and still the original battery and no signs of that problem. I got an "optimate 4".
 

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Battery voltage is a good place to start but does not tell the whole story. You need amperage as well as voltage. Voltage = pressure, amperage = flow. Think of a batteries output like water flow. Your home has 60 psi of water pressure/ voltage and you want to fill a swimming pool. Which would fill the pool faster at 60psi, a garden hose or the hose off a fire truck? The starter on your motorcycle is the largest consumer of amperage. You may have the pressure/voltage, but without adequate flow/amperage, the starter will not work. This is why a load test is necessary to determine battery health. Finally, watts is a measure of the total water in the pool, weather from low voltage and high amperage or high voltage and low amperage, the final cumulative level is watts.
When filling a dry lead acid battery one should wait 20 to 30 minutes after filling the battery for the acid to permeate the plate before charging. The battery, depending on manufacture date, will need a lengthy low amperage charge before being put into service.
 
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