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Apples to apples that's
1 lb on the front
0.4 lb on the rear

with the monkey thrown at it
2.8 lb on the front
4 lb on the rear

that's some serious shedding with the speciality hardware bits.

Thanks for taking the time and putting in the effort @jetpilot01 !
 

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This just adds more to the confusion lol I don't know why, but in your first thread when you first got the wheels (this one: looked what just showed up !!) you did these side by side measurements with just the wheels, without anything on them and the difference was 1.3 lbs for the front and 1.4 for the rear. Only problem is you hadn't weighed the sprocket carriers, but @Duckman weighed the stock one at 2.3 lbs (which is pretty crazy that it's that heavy by the way!!), and although I don't know how much the MOS carrier weighs, I'm willing to bet anything that it's less than that. So the difference should be around 3 - 3.5 lbs combined. But now you're showing only 0.4 for the rear and 1 lb for the front...so not sure where the discrepancy is.

That's it...I'll be doing all of this as well lol The boss man is gonna want to see in-house proof, and he said he's going to wait and see if they come apart on me at Daytona before he decides if he should buy a set or not lol If they survive next weekend he might get a set lol
 

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This looks VERY interesting, but it is very unclear where the largest specific savings come from. i.e. what specific bits and pieces are getting the weight from 30.1 lb to 18.1 lb. It seems like the big weight savings are coming form something other than the raw wheels.

Can you give us details?

Jim G
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok so took a little time to weigh the wheels alone with no hardware ,spacers only, to full hardware also you can see the differences in aftermarket sprocket (aluminum) rotor (SS) Ti bolts x3 aluminum nuts x6

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
ok I found the reason the #s weren't adding up (or down) where I have a stack of good used tyres, I grabbed a 150/70 instead of a 150/60 so it's pretty simple, 2lb loss if you just change out the wheel, another min 2 changing out hardware I have shown. I will weight my "race" spec set up soon (-7>8 #s)

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I was surprised how much difference it made when I changed from the OEM rear tire to a Bridegstone Battlax BT-090 140/70-17. That knocked 1.76 lb off the rear tire weight!! That's just the rear tire only. I have not explored front tire possibilities.

Jim G
 

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I was surprised how much difference it made when I changed from the OEM rear tire to a Bridegstone Battlax BT-090 140/70-17. That knocked 1.76 lb off the rear tire weight!! That's just the rear tire only. I have not explored front tire possibilities.

Jim G
Yea Jim, the difference between a Dunlop GPR300 150/60, a Michelin EVO 140/70, and a Metzler Z8 150/70 could possible be a kilo. @sbk1198 how's that for metric. I'm working on it. :)

But also Jim, you can't assume the same difference on the front. Sometimes the rear may be lighter but the front heavier in comparison to other brands. I all depends on the tires.

Example:
The stock GPR300 150/60 rear weighs about 12.0 lbs. The rear Dunlop slick 140/70 weighs 10.7 - 11.4 lbs. But the front GPR300 110 weighs about 7.9 lbs and the front 110 slick weighs a porky 8.6 lbs.

If you're wondering about the range on the rear slicks I quoted it's because I've weighed 3 rear medium compounds that ranged from 11.0 to 11.4 lbs, and a hard compound that weighed 10.7 lbs. Same tire, different compound. Go figure.
 

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Yea Jim, the difference between a Dunlop GPR300 150/60, a Michelin EVO 140/70, and a Metzler Z8 150/70 could possible be a kilo. @sbk1198 how's that for metric. I'm working on it. :)
Yes I could really feel the difference when I made that tire swap. Makes sense, since the tire has the absolute largest radius of any part on the wheel. But I get that you racers want and need specific tire characteristics that sometimes come with only heavier tires.

Jim G
 

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Good work @jetpilot01 ! That's a good scientific comparison! :D Now I don't have to do it anymore :)

So we got the final numbers...2 lbs lighter in the rear and about 1.3 in the front. I do want to do a spin test once I get my tires on tomorrow. I did it with just the wheels, without tires, and the front seems to spin pretty nicely, but the rear was pretty stiff. It didn't want to spin much, but I'm not sure how that will compare once I put a rear tire on. In theory, more weight around the rim should mean more moment of inertia, so it should spin more...but how much more? I'll find out soon.
 

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The 0.6 lb one (the 4th photo) is remarkable - no "hub" at all, similar to the one I bought for my 2008 ZX-6R, but mine is heavier - 0.86 lb.

Who makes the one in your photo? I take it its for the Ninja 400?

Jim G
 

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@Jim G why would I be posting products NOT for the N400? the whole thread is on wheels for the N400......is the cold getting to your memory up in the great white north🥶🥶
What I was actually asking is: Is this rotor ONLY usable on the Ninja 400, or does it fit other Kawasaki models? Or, does the same source offer this rotor in configurations that fit other bikes? That 0.6 lb weight is the lowest I have seen by far. The only weakness is there is no ABS ring and no apparent way to fit one (for the street versus track).

And, where did you find it?

But yes, the weather here has been depressing. RAIN, LOTS of it, for the past several weeks - more than we have ever experienced before, and VERY dark and gloomy, and COLD. as a result. We need the lights on all day. And then there's the COVID which at our age is a big threat. And as a result of the weather, no way to get my motorcycle "happy lift". Sigh . . .

Jim G
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
@Jim G as a Spears dealer, I sell these. they're race specific as no ring as you noticed, so even if it does fit the Z or other models, you wouldn't want to use this for street use for obvious reasons !

time to do what everyone else is doing, moving to FL !!
 
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