Just a weeee bit hard to see in that photo. Can you get a little closer.
I'll say it then lolThat one’s a little over done. It’s probably ok but because I don’t want to be liable if you crash and die I’d say get another one and do it over.
I can verify that going up even one tooth on the countershaft sprocket, from 14 (stock) to 15, does indeed throw a code 25. This is apparently due to a routine in the ECU that compares engine RPM to speedometer value when the clutch is out. It also takes away the gear indicator....I believe either plus 1 or minus 1 in front will will throw a code.
Just do the clutch lever cut out hack, change your gearing and be happy.I can verify that going up even one tooth on the countershaft sprocket, from 14 (stock) to 15, does indeed throw a code 25. This is apparently due to a routine in the ECU that compares engine RPM to speedometer value when the clutch is out. It also takes away the gear indicator.
The stock overall ratio for 41-tooth rear and 14-tooth front is 2.93. Going to 15 in the front makes it 2.73, which is 7.3% different. The software apparently has an error window of 7%. As others have posted, the fault indication can be bypassed by jumpering the clutch lever sensor because the code ignores any RPM vs. speedo difference when the clutch is pulled in (which makes sense). Doing that, however, allows you to start the engine with the bike in gear and the clutch out, which clearly has the potential for expensive (and possibly painful) trouble.
Here's a handy chart that I keep in my garage. I could have gone with stock front and 39 rear to get 2.79 overall ratio, which would have given me most of the rev drop at highway speed that I wanted and stayed within the presumed software error window. But it's a lot easier and cheaper to swap out the countershaft sprocket, and I didn't realize that it was going to be such an issue.
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If I only knew how to hack the ECU software to widen the window to 10%, I'd do it! Hmmmm, maybe I should ask someone at Volkswagen...
All kidding aside, this to me is an example of engineers who don't ride solving a problem that doesn't exist with a tool that cannot be used by the product owner. I understand that one can imagine a scenario in which a failure mode might possibly be caught by this speed vs. RPM comparator, but really - in 50 years of riding motorcycles I have never once had or heard of anyone having a situation in which it would have been genuinely helpful. On the other hand, people change their gearing all the time.
It totally sucks to be forced to choose between deciding on the gear ratio I want and having a constant check-engine indicator (and no gear indicator). For what? A possible indication that my clutch might be slipping or my chain might have broken? I certainly don't need software to tell me that!
I'm not sure about your logic behind wrong motor oil, but my bike is still almost brand new and I keep my tire pressure at exactly the factory specified values. The value that triggers the problem is likely right at the edge of the software window, and slight variations in sensor data (speedo and tach) account for it.I keep thinking all you guys having this trouble are using the wrong motor oil or tire pressure or something.
Code 25: Gearshift sensor, and the gear position indicator no longer works (two blinking dashes instead of a number, except for neutral).What error code does it throw?
Oops! Sorry about the misunderstanding. Tire diameter actually would make a difference, so that wasn't a totally crazy comment. If the RPM vs. speedo value were right at the hairy edge of a software window, 5 psi just might be the difference between an error code and no code. Not sure, though. (I use 5psi because that's how overinflated both of my tires were when I get my brand new zero-miles bike home and checked them.)It was a joke. 😎
Yeah, I am going to do that but it doesn't make me happy. It sucks to bypass an actually useful thing in order to deal with a not-useful thing.Just do the clutch lever cut out hack, change your gearing and be happy.
Yeah, that's going to be my new habit as of this very moment! I bypassed the clutch interlock five minutes ago.I always pull the clutch when starting the bike, even if it is in neutral, then slowly release it to make sure I did not mess up. I don't know if everybody does that, but I was taught this habit and I believe it is important.