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I’m wondering how hard it is to get to the upper shock mounts to flip them
It’s not too difficult. Pull the tank and the ECU and the upper bolts are right there. Norton’s support bracket kit works well to secure the ECU tray. It comes with washers to use as spacers for the bottom shock bolt.

Get a couple more washers to space out the linkage so it won’t rub on the spring as described earlier in this thread.

So what bike is in your future? An Aprilia?
 

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So what bike is in your future? An Aprilia?
No way. After owning a KTM, Ducati, and Husqvarna...I'm done with Euro bikes!

Not sure yet. I'll keep riding the 400 until I decide...leaning towards a standard or adventure bike...
 

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Get a couple more washers to space out the linkage so it won’t rub on the spring as described earlier in this thread.
Myself and some others haven't had an issue with rubbing. I noticed that the upper spring mount is about 1/8" smaller in diameter than the spring's ID. That means the spring can shift left or right a fair amount. I was very careful when reassembling mine to keep the spring centered until it was tightened down. It would be best to make a spacer to ensure it stays centered, but once it's loaded it should do a decent job of staying put. I have a hunch that this could be the difference in whether there are clearance issues.
 

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Hi guys,
This is by far the most complete topic I've ever seen. It has so much information that I couldn't even dream of.
Thanks to you all for the hard work at home and the gathering data. Since bike/year/model to Max McAllister video I've learned so much.
Next is to find a GSXR shock in good condition and start myself dealing with.
Wish I could find those prices here as well, such a bargain
Thanks again
I'll come back later with the result
Cheers
 

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Awesome thread, thanks to all who have contributed... I got a zero mile 2012 rear GSX-R 600 shock for $40!

However, I took a chance based on the table below and bought an ebay GSXR1000 03-04 shock for $50, hoping I could swap the spring out of it, but no dice, it is about 5mm larger diameter.... so be warned that this chart does not mean the springs can interchange with each other... just FYI...

Code:
BIKE MODEL    RATE (kg/mm)    RATE (lb/in)    RIDER (lb)
EX500 OEM     5.4             300             X
EX250F OEM    7.9             440             X
EX250J OEM    9.3             520             X
EX400H OEM     10.0             560             190-220

98-00 GSXR600    6.4             360             90-120
01-03 GSXR600    8.0             450             120-150
04-05 GSXR600    7.6             425             115-145
06-09 GSXR600    9.4             525             170-200
11-13 GSXR600    10.1             565             195-225

00-03 GSXR750    7.2             400             95-125
04-05 GSXR750    7.3             410             100-130
06-07 GSXR750    9.5             530             175-205
08-10 GSXR750    9.5             530             175-205
11-13 GSXR750    10.5            590             210-240

01-02 GSXR1000    7.7             430             115-145
03-04 GSXR1000    8.6             480             135-165
05-06 GSXR1000    8.1             455             125-155
07-08 GSXR1000    10.1            565             195-225
09-11 GSXR1000    11.6            650             240-280
For example, thegenius46m may have been able to use the spring off an '01-'03 600 or an '05-'06 1000 instead of buying one from RT.
 

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Thanks for all the info everyone! Picked up a 2017 GSXR600 shock and the Norton mount kit, finished the install last night.

Getting a torque wrench in there was a bit of a pain, but overall not a terrible job. I set the shock up per Norton's recommendations but I haven't touched preload. Hopefully it gets above freezing this week so I can test it out and make some adjustments.

16283
 

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Looks like it's going to peak up toward the 50s this week, hoping to dial in my shock a bit. First step is reducing preload, the rear seems to have almost 0 static sag.
 

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Finally got er done today
Let us know what you think of it once you get a few miles on it.

I like that first picture - it’s got the two main necessities in it - a beer and a dead blow mallet! Along with a few other optional items...
 

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What about the battery tray? No need to worry about it after mount the bracket upside down?
A lot of us have used this:


One thing to note when you are adjusting the compression damping - the screw in the center is the low speed and the hex adjuster is the high speed.
 

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Looks like it's going to peak up toward the 50s this week, hoping to dial in my shock a bit. First step is reducing preload, the rear seems to have almost 0 static sag.
So I did reduce preload on my shock a bit and it's much better. In the spring I'm going to try and find a shop that does suspension setup to see about getting it dialed in a bit more.
 

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One thing to note when you are adjusting the compression damping - the screw in the center is the low speed and the hex adjuster is the high speed.
Are you sure about that? Norton says the opposite and I set mine to that. If its the opposite then I’ll need to readjust. So far it feels really good. I really can’t believe the difference over stock. It’s a very noticeable improvement...
 

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Are you sure about that? Norton says the opposite and I set mine to that. If its the opposite then I’ll need to readjust. So far it feels really good. I really can’t believe the difference over stock. It’s a very noticeable improvement...

View attachment 16723
Yes, I talked to Jesse about it, because it looked like it was backwards on their website. He agreed and said he would fix that when he had time. He and Jeremy are awfully busy making cool things for our bikes, and winning championships, so I don’t blame him for not getting to it yet.
 

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If it feels good you might not need to touch it. The low speed and rebound adjustments are very effective, but at least on the shock I’m using the high speed compression doesn’t have a lot of effect. It’s not the only three way shock that I’ve heard of that is that way.

Here’s a diagram of a valve on a similar shock:

16724


The blue needle varies the area of the low speed passageway, and the orangish hi speed nut preloads the purple spring against the green shim stack seat.

The shims flex when the piston speed is “medium”, and at high speed the increasing oil pressure compresses the spring to allow more oil flow around the edge of the shim stack, to allow the suspension to absorb sharp edged bumps.
 

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I installed the GSXR rear shock a couple weeks ago, and went on an all-day ride (230 miles) last weekend. Impressions: Whoa, super easy to install. I did not bother with a taller bracket.

I had to remove the rear tire mud fender on the swingarm to install the GSXR shock, but didn't need to open up under the seat at all. The GSXR shock slipped in and bolted up with just a slight (~1/2") rise of the rear tire. I did put in washers around the bottom bolt, but I had those sitting around.

That was it! The reason I don't care that the rear is slightly lower is because my front fork tubes are already lowered due to my woodcraft clipon risers (I have clamped them above the top clamp instead of below). Also, even without this, I doubt most street riders would even notice the small change in fork geometry (I did experiment with this before buying the clipons, and it is subtle).

I decided to adjust the shock to about 5 turns out for compression and rebound damping as a starting point, and brought tools on my ride to adjust it. I never bothered, although it clearly was "loose", ie, there was some extra movement and slop with acceleration/deacceleration and some bumps. But the reason I bought the rear shock was to make the rear more compliant than OEM, and it definitely was! That is, sharp bumps and rough roads were less jarring on my butt and low back. So I'm super happy with it. I brought the settings in a couple turns and will play with it.

This thread may make it seem like installation is a big deal. It is not. You do not need to change the mounting bracket. It is a drop in replacement, you just need two standard washers from a hardware store. If you really want to minimize your head angle change, lower the front fork tubes 1-2cm on the clamps (which is super simple also). But some people may prefer the slower steering, and like I say, it is a subtle change that is hard to notice anyways...
 
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