more pics

 

Had to get a pic of my baby!

 

Interesting swap, cheaper option than an aftermarket one designed for a N400 but your limited by the eye centre distance as you found out.
I put this same shock in my old GSXR400 race bike and it slotted in perfectly, length was correct too.
Because your 100kg odd you will probably get way with it but if it's too stiff then change your spring rather than backing your preload right off as then your ride height will be even lower than it is now and the shock will not be operating in the sweet part of its stroke.
Let us know how you get on.

 

Installed the SPEARS rear height adjusters. Not too hard but gas tank needs to come off plus move a couple things under the gas tank. Still came up 5/8" short from stock with the GSXR shock so went with the lower mount points with the plates which came out about 3/8" taller then stock. Still have not checked sag.


You guys are correct, getting the rear rim back on is a PIA. I hope Fast by Frank makes a rear caliper mount for the N4.

 

Got any reviews on the shock? Hows the GSR rear shock treating you?

 

Will be at NJMP Lightning this Sunday for my first day on the N4. Hopefully Mark from MarkBilt will be there to help adjust what can be adjusted. Current gen GSX-R 6/7 shock out back with SPEARS ride height adjuster & K-Tech springs up front with pre-load adjusters.... and brand new Q3+'s...

 

What rate springs in the GSXR shock? It's a lot heavier bike so could be a bit stiff perhaps.

 

yeah probably on a lark with the GSXR shock but at least cheap!i... but check out the Frando radial caliper adapter dry fitted...piece to axle not connected...may need 1mm spacer for the caliper...still running the OEM caliper this weekends track day...

 

First blush rear 20mm loaded sag without my gear. I have not touched the shock other then Comp & Rebound in middle adj. Did not touch pre-load. Shorts t-shirt sneakers only. No Helmet, leather etc... I figure that's another 20lbs plus. We will see tomorrow when the suspension guy takes a looksy at it.


Pre-load adjuster & K-Tech springs fitted with adjustments made on the spacers for both. OEM oil & amt.

 

Was the 20mm difference taken from a true unloaded reading with the swing arm fully unloaded (ie. not on a rear stand) or was it with the weight of the bike on the rear wheel?

If its a true unloaded - rider sag difference then yes, it's too little. But if the 20mm is the difference between bike sag - rider sag then it's about right.

If it's the former then you need to back off the pre-load adjuster rings until you get an unloaded - bike sag difference of 10 - 15mm depending on whether its for track or road. Then check your rider sag again where you will be looking for 25 - 35mm depending on your intended use.
If you cant get the rider sag figure correct by using the pre-load adjuster then your spring is too stiff, simple as that.

 

Does that gixxer shock have both rebound and comp damping adjustment? I couldn't tell from the picture.

 

correct...both

 

So this is a K6/7 shock off the GSXR?
It was 5/8 shorter? So 15.87mm shorter?


I was born and raised in the USA and love the USA, but I prefer millimeters for all my measurements, especially on bikes because I can get so much more precise with simple numbers, versus fractions



I ran a GSXR 1000 shock on the SV, was the best way to go affordable and get all adjustments out of, well except high speed...cause it was a K5/6 I think as that one was the same length(I would have to check my excel spread sheet of measurements)

 

Nevermind, looked at my chart, shows the GSXR 600/750 rear shock K6-K10 is 315mm, I want to say the Ninja 400 rear shock is 320 eye to eye........

 

I own a 2006 GSX-R 750. The shock on my N4 is from a current gen GSX-R 600/750. 2010+ I'm guessing. The shock from my 750 would not fit on the N4 due the attachment points. I have a stock 2006 GSX-R shock in my arage. I believe the upper mount on the OEM is a bolt, not eyelet. I believe my original post stated with the GSX-R shock in the N4 the bike sat approx. 3/8" lower but I may be incorrect. Not sure how many mm.

 

Ok, thanks, gathering info, info junkie to find cheaper, superior alternative, options out there with anything.

That makes more sense as I had a K6 GSXR 1000 shock laying around and yes, both the upper was different mounting methods, and lower was also pretty far off, if I remember right, it used a bolt instead of eyelet/bushing open mount.

The 2011-19 GSXR 750 shock is 319mm, or at least according to what Ohlins shows, with a 65mm stroke.
Ninja 400 Ohlins is 320 eye to eye.

3/8 would be 9.5 mm converted. All interesting info, and with the spears mounts we can go up 5 and 10 mm, of course changing the swingarm angle

 

So the rear GSXR shock has to be 2010 or newer. I will check around for one. How did the rear feel on Lightning? Was a suspension guru there to dial it in? A few of the guys at NYST we’re talking about this set up. They have 400s and they are gonna go with the GSXR rear shock. What are your thoughts on the rear now?

 

Looks like it needs to be a 11- on up from what I can tell, so 2011 - 2019 rear shock

 

Check out E-bidding websites, I’m being pretty specific on that. Just got out of warranty in May and have a small trail of possible fluid leaking from my rear shock, so I may pull the trigger on the purchase of one. Would adjustment be needed since the gsxr and N400 are very different in weight alone not considering my weight and the weight of gear and backpack with tons of books for schooling.

 

Unfortunately I never made it on track. Was feeling pain on my drive to track that morning. Left side back. Ureter spasms from a kidney stone. I still have a 2mm & a 12mm stone in my left kidney. Well I guess the 2mm decided to drop into the ureter. Stopped in Walgreens in Millville for Ibuprofen. Sucked down 800mg and pain went up. Got to Lightning and talked to John with N2 and told him my situation. He was great and offered credit. Puked twice before I got home. Went to ER and passed the stone. I am under the care of a urologist. Had ureteroscopy earlier this year for another big stone. I've had lithotripsy multiple times. So now I have to wait until 07.14 T-Bolt to get bike on track.


With a cold GSX-R shock last Saturday, I got right at 20mm sag loaded with myself and no track gear (leathers, helmet etc...). I weigh around 185. No adjustments made to Pre-load. Comp & Rebound set in middle adjustments. The GSX-R '11+ shock is alittle shorter eye-eye then the OEM N4 shock. SPEARS ride height adjusters help make up the difference. But I am NO suspension Guru.


Also, I do have the FRANDO radial MC on my bike. I have a Brembo MC on my GSX-R. I know a lot of ppl will cry FRANDO copied Brembo but they do not look identical. FRANDO got a positive write-up in Britains FASTBIKES mag. An editors brother raced his 675 with one and gave it a thumbs up. The FRANDO radial MC was around $159 shipped to me in PA. FRANDO is in Taiwan, not china. I also have the FRANDO radial brake caliper adapter but not on the bike yet. Works with 100mm bolt spread radial calipers. Another option other then SPEARS Brembo NON-Radial option. Brembo 40mm calipers are not cheap even used on eBay. Brembo radial calipers are cheaper & more plentiful. SVRacing should be coming out with an adapter for the Tokico/Nissin calipers. I guess if you race these options may not be palatable/legal.


I did find another keyless gas cap option on eBay that I like a lot better then the first one I purchased. It had support bolt channels/towers down to the gas tank and was around $35.


I have the MotoRicambiXP bodywork on the bike. I would NOT recommend this brand. Belly pan was a nightmare. I can only guess manufacture variances. Uppers went on great. No issues. Belly pan I had to butcher. Seems like left side mid is short. Gianluca was not sympathetic. Even posted on YouTube for him to see issues. No joy. I have a HINDLE full exhaust so that is not the issue. Stick with AB.


My N4:
Dunlop Q3+
FRANDO 15mm radial mc
Brake line
K-Tech springs 80/85 (on recommend from K-Tech)
Chinese Pre-Load adjusters (spacers cut for both adj & springs)
WC clip-ons
WC Keyless ignition
TYGA steering stops
TYGA front axle sliders
WC frame sliders (race-cut)
R6 throttle tube
SPEARS clutch return spring
KAWASAKI warrantied NEW clutch
MacGyver Kickstand bypass (cut off)
Chinese keyless gas cap
Hindle full exhaust (no re-map per WC rep)
TYGA exhaust hanger
Vortex rear-sets
SPEARS ride height adjuster
'11+ GSX-R 600/750 OEM shock
MotoRicambiXP bodywork (almost all)


Waiting to install:
SPEARS clutch bits & bobs
FRANDO radial caliper adapter

 

Unfortunately I never made it on track. Was feeling pain on my drive to track that morning. Left side back. Ureter spasms from a kidney stone. I still have a 2mm & a 12mm stone in my left kidney. Well I guess the 2mm decided to drop into the ureter. Stopped in Walgreens in Millville for Ibuprofen. Sucked down 800mg and pain went up. Got to Lightning and talked to John with N2 and told him my situation. He was great and offered credit. Puked twice before I got home. Went to ER and passed the stone. I am under the care of a urologist. Had ureteroscopy earlier this year for another big stone. I've had lithotripsy multiple times. So now I have to wait until 07.14 T-Bolt to get bike on track.


With a cold GSX-R shock last Saturday, I got right at 20mm sag loaded with myself and no track gear (leathers, helmet etc...). I weigh around 185. No adjustments made to Pre-load. Comp & Rebound set in middle adjustments. The GSX-R '11+ shock is alittle shorter eye-eye then the OEM N4 shock. SPEARS ride height adjusters help make up the difference. But I am NO suspension Guru.


Also, I do have the FRANDO radial MC on my bike. I have a Brembo MC on my GSX-R. I know a lot of ppl will cry FRANDO copied Brembo but they do not look identical. FRANDO got a positive write-up in Britains FASTBIKES mag. An editors brother raced his 675 with one and gave it a thumbs up. The FRANDO radial MC was around $159 shipped to me in PA. FRANDO is in Taiwan, not china. I also have the FRANDO radial brake caliper adapter but not on the bike yet. Works with 100mm bolt spread radial calipers. Another option other then SPEARS Brembo NON-Radial option. Brembo 40mm calipers are not cheap even used on eBay. Brembo radial calipers are cheaper & more plentiful. SVRacing should be coming out with an adapter for the Tokico/Nissin calipers. I guess if you race these options may not be palatable/legal.


I did find another keyless gas cap option on eBay that I like a lot better then the first one I purchased. It had support bolt channels/towers down to the gas tank and was around $35.


I have the MotoRicambiXP bodywork on the bike. I would NOT recommend this brand. Belly pan was a nightmare. I can only guess manufacture variances. Uppers went on great. No issues. Belly pan I had to butcher. Seems like left side mid is short. Gianluca was not sympathetic. Even posted on YouTube for him to see issues. No joy. I have a HINDLE full exhaust so that is not the issue. Stick with AB.


My N4:
Dunlop Q3+
FRANDO 15mm radial mc
Brake lines
K-Tech springs 80/85 (on recommend from K-Tech)
Chinese Pre-Load adjusters (spacers cut for both adj & springs)
WC clip-ons
WC Keyless ignition
TYGA steering stops
TYGA front axle sliders
WC frame sliders (race-cut)
R6 throttle tube
SPEARS clutch return spring
KAWASAKI warrantied NEW clutch
MacGyver Kickstand bypass (cut off)
Chinese keyless gas cap
Hindle full exhaust (no re-map per WC rep)
TYGA exhaust hanger
Vortex rear-sets
SPEARS ride height adjuster
'11+ GSX-R 600/750 OEM shock
MotoRicambiXP bodywork (almost all)


Waiting to install:
SPREARS clutch bits & bobs
FRANDO radial caliper adapter

So sorry about the kidney stones, that sucks!!
Also sucks about the bodywork.

Sounds like a pretty good setup you have going...sometimes, someone has to be the for runner on the cheap stuff to find out what works, and what does not.

I sometimes like doing that myself, so others can benefit.

I like the Frando caliper mount....I might look into that.....thought about running another R6 brembo master up front since I had such wonderful results on my SV with one, steel lines and a radial caliper......not sure if I want to turn the 400 into another corner carving, track weapon...or if I might just wait to see what happens and what ends up being the Aprilia RS 660 though.......

 

anything APRILIA makes my gums sweat!

 

I swapped out the stock shock with a current Gen GSX-R 600/750 shock. Was actually a lot easier then I thought. Got the bike up on the frame stand. Took some measurements first. Took off rear wheel. Got the impact driver out and removed the stock shock. Both the stock and the GSXR shock run M10 bolts upper & lower and I used the stock bolts. One bolt is longer then the other so mark them. Fitted the new GSXR shock in. Upper mount is dead on. NO fenagling. Lower mount just needs 2 M10 washers to take up some slop. The GSXR shock is narrower on the lower mount the stock shock. Looks like plenty of clearance. GSXR spring is wider but seems to clear all+. First blush lowered back end by 5/8 ". Will check twice. I bought the SPEARS ride height plates so they will go on when I figure out how much I truly lost (5/8"?). Or make adjustable dogbones out of rose joints and threaded rod. Or Soupy's makes adjustable ride height dogbones.

I believe my original post stated with the GSX-R shock in the N4 the bike sat approx. 3/8" lower but I may be incorrect. Not sure how many mm.

Ok I bought a 11-17 GSXR 6/750 rear shock, measured eye to eye with a tape measure and converted it to mm.
I came up with 311.15 mm when converted to milimeters.

So with that being said, and stock at 320mm:

5/8" = 15.875 mm
3/8" = 9.525 mm

Shorter by 3/8" is our winner as that puts us at 320.675, 5/8 would be too much.....

So using the Spears and raising 10mm gets us 321.15, and might get us from the stock 9.5 swingarm angle to about 9.7/9.8 swingarm angle.

If only the adjusters gave us another 5mm for +5, +10 and +15mm, give a 3rd adjustment with stock shock lenght of 12.3 more in that perfect sweet spot with an adjustable shock like the OHLIN's.
Then with the GSXR shock we could get that swingarm angle of more like 10.7 ish.
So I guess every little bit helps, and we should be able to drop the front some to help out back....

If I can measure the stock shock eye to eye and confirm the difference, then I can be 100% sure.

 

...Then with the GSXR shock we could get that swingarm angle of more like 10.7 ish.
So I guess every little bit helps, and we should be able to drop the front some to help out back....

If I can measure the stock shock eye to eye and confirm the difference, then I can be 100% sure.

This is where it can be confusing. Lowering the front steepens your steering rake angle and reduces your trail and all those good things that aid quicker turn it BUT it actually reduces your swing arm angle and worsens your pro squat/anti squat equation. So best to drop the front first and then start crunching the numbers from there to work out what you need to do shock length wise to improve your swing arm angle.

Ps. I just measured my OEM shock as it's sitting on the shelf gathering dust. 321mm eye to eye centres.

 

Do you think the GSXR shock is a viable economical option with the ride height bits from SPEARS? I should be at Thunderbolt next Sunday 07.14. I think I am a tad higher then stock now using the lower ride height option. Does that line up with what you see?

 

Does anybody have OEM N4 shock spring rate & OEM '11+ GSXR 600/750 shock spring rate? Thx...Paul

 

According to Racetech the GSXR 600 rear shock spring rate is 10.1 kg/mm and the 750 is 10.5 kg/mm.
Showa 40 mm

Unknown what the 400 is stock...........

 

What about flipping the upper bracket it bolts to upside down? A buddy did it and I think he said it raised the bike about 1 cm?

 

So it looks like flipping them around gives you at least 14-15mm extra.

What a headache to get those two 10mm bolts out that are attached to the top tabs for the shock mounts; that secures the tray to them.


I just removed them since they do not serve much of an extra purpose, the tray will sit on the top of those plates if it drops down, and the back of the engine casing as well, plus there are two bolts at the back for the battery tray reinforcement, so I think it should be good without them.
Also looks like the Spears kit removes them as well.

I cut the tabs off the shock mount plates and smoothed out where they were welded.
Once I get two M10 washers I will mount it up.

 

I installed the GSXR shock flipping the stock shock mounting plates upside down(after cutting the tabs off and cleaning it up and powder coating and painting it)
It is stiff as a champ compared to stock and I can tell a difference in height it seems to sit higher, also sits higher on the rear Pit Bull stand and I am pretty sure I will need to re-adjust my chain now.

I measured the GSXR shock with tape measure(sorta dirty and probably not super accurate) and came up with the 311.15 mm as indicated in my earlier post.

I measured the stock N400 shock in position 3 on preload and came up with 317.5 mm ...hmmm cause I think its actually 320 eye to eye? At least going by what Ohlins says theirs is, unless they measure it at a adjusted out more position?
Also Kiwi got 321mm eye to eye, so maybe 320 is more accurate?

So that is a 6.35 inch drop, but I think its more like 10mm difference and that 3/8 Scook said...

Even if its only 6.35mm shorter, flipping the mounting plates around gave me a difference of 14.19mm, off the bike mounted plate to plate and bolted together, one flipped over one right side up


So lets say 15mm longer, so we get 7.84 or 8.74 mm of lift with the GSXR shock, or closer to 5mm if the N400 shock is 320mm and my GSXR eye to eye is spot on.
Either way I do not see us getting less than 5mm lift and more than 10mm lift flipping the plates around with GSXR shock. MagikDuck said his friend got 1cm, so that is 10mm.

I used two M10 stainless washers on the bottom mount to take up the left to right slop like Scook said. Of course I had a pack of 5 washers and two where same width, two other the same width and one at a slighter thicker than the other two.

Next I made some measurements with a digital caliper that is accurate to the allowances.
I also measured the lower shock bushing the bolt goes through on the N400 stock shock and the GSXR shock.

N400 lower shock bolt bush 40.43mm width, diameter = 17.99mm
GSXR lower shock bolt bush 36.07mm width, diamter = 17.00mm

Would have been nice if N400 lower shock bush diameter was closer to GSXR one, cause could have just swapped them out, but its almost 1mm larger and will not fit I tried for a good bit, then I measured and said nope.

2x M10 stainless steel washers 3.75-3.80mm thickness, or 3.82mm with one washer 1.90-.93mm thick, total width with GSXR shock bushing plus two washer = 39.89 mm
-.54mm difference over stock, this should suffice.

 

Sounds about right to me. What kind of sag numbers are you seeing? I'm about 185 without gear (leathers, helmet etc...) and saw right at 20mm loaded with a cold shock and rebound & comp set in middle. I did not touch pre-load at all. I believe we can swap out springs ourselves. Just need to buy those spring compressor thingys on eBay. With back end 5mm up may need? to lower tubes in triples to raise the front end? My GSX-R has been raised on both ends with fork extenders & a Penske shock. I do agree with you that the back end feels much firmer & taller. Maybe not as much sag as compared to OEM? ?Did you state that the OEM GSX-R shock is height adjustable? My only concern now is that even with the K-Tech springs 80/85 in the forks the front end still needs better internals/carts to deal with the firmer shock. Im not ready to shell out $1k yet for Ohlins or K-Tech etc.... carts. I would probably chat with Matt Patton. My carts in my GSX-R are stock and are fine for my level (intermediate) at the track. He uses GSX-R carts in his retro fits.


We just need to get this shock in front of a suspension guy to see if the OEM springs etc... are not compatible.


I will prob be at Pocono in a week or so and then hopefully NJMP the following weekend. Pocono will prob have NO suspension guy but NJMP should but he runs the show (Mark-Markbilt). I have my clutch out now and I did replace the shift shaft oil seal. Barnett springs & the SPEARS bits n' bobs going in. That shift adj kit REALLY tightens up that shift shaft slop.

 

Sounds about right to me. What kind of sag numbers are you seeing? I'm about 185 without gear (leathers, helmet etc...) and saw right at 20mm loaded with a cold shock and rebound & comp set in middle.

Ok, shame on me, I know that is the very first thing I should do, but I have not.
I only weigh about 150-155 without gear.
I do not have anyone to really help me.......but maybe its time my 14 year old son learns, he does good with most stuff, but this one, and my OCD I will need grace and patience if he does it any different than I would want. Lol I am not that hard to live with....I think.

I believe we can swap out springs ourselves. Just need to buy those spring compressor thingys on eBay.

I would think so, appears to just be a Showa 40mm shock


Yeah, I made my own fork compression tool like the Race Tech one(for tearing down the inverted forks), but even better in my opinion. I fabricated, measured and welded it all up myself and powder coated it.


I will have to look at the spring tool for shocks and maybe do the same thing

With back end 5mm up may need? to lower tubes in triples to raise the front end? My GSX-R has been raised on both ends with fork extenders & a Penske shock. I do agree with you that the back end feels much firmer & taller. Maybe not as much sag as compared to OEM? ?Did you state that the OEM GSX-R shock is height adjustable?

Edit - correction: With back up, stock up front might be good, but I left mine dropped 4.35mm up front.

I also drained the fluid out and added 15w or 20w fluid up front and an extra +20mm fluid. Also installed preload adjusters. I will need to check my documentation on this as well. I know this is "not" cartridges and springs, but its better than stock.

Edit- more I thought of: Something else to consider is if you remove the stock clipons, and mount clip-ons underneath the triples you have way more fork to work with, that would give us alot of extra room to raise the front end, and you can get clip ons with risers to move them up further mounted underneath top triple. But I think stock height or even dropped 5mm is all the room we need.

yep, its not an easy, twist this knob, adjustment like a K-Tech or Ohlins, but yes you can adjust the rear shock height on a GSX-R. The upper shock mount has a nut with some threads, I know you used to be able shim/washer stack those puppies some and get 3-6mm out of that raising up the back end some?

Can you still do that with these on the GSX-R 600/750???

My only concern now is that even with the K-Tech springs 80/85 in the forks the front end still needs better internals/carts to deal with the firmer shock. Im not ready to shell out $1k yet for Ohlins or K-Tech etc.... carts. I would probably chat with Matt Patton. My carts in my GSX-R are stock and are fine for my level (intermediate) at the track. He uses GSX-R carts in his retro fits.


We just need to get this shock in front of a suspension guy to see if the OEM springs etc... are not compatible.


I will prob be at Pocono in a week or so and then hopefully NJMP the following weekend. Pocono will prob have NO suspension guy but NJMP should but he runs the show (Mark-Markbilt). I have my clutch out now and I did replace the shift shaft oil seal. Barnett springs & the SPEARS bits n' bobs going in. That shift adj kit REALLY tightens up that shift shaft slop.

Right I rode mine today to work, roughly 52 miles, and it's way better for handling. It feels planted way more, more precise and re-active.

Is it stiff, and can I feel every bump and imperfection in the road? Uhh, yeah pretty much...a yes.
Do I like it? Yes
Will my neck and lower back like it? Pretty dang sure a resounding nope on that one.

But, I can tell a difference. It seems to drive harder out of the corners, more planted and less squat.
Feels to me more agile, and maybe its just my mind dealing with the stiffer shock.

Also I have a bad habit I formed many years ago of weaving back and forth in the lane, scrubbing tires in or preventing "table tops" down the middle of the tire wear on long straight rides, like interstates, highways.(talking 1993 when I started that and first started riding on the street, stories about riding with old guy veterans that said to do it, scrub the dust and oil/etc. off the tires urban myths, etc.)

I do this safely. I also know this does not heat up the tires any, as motorcycle tires do not behave the same way as car tires do and F1, GT, etc. so scrubbing to keep heat in them, back and forth motion would not.

But I can tell it no longer squats or squishes the back end feeling all loosey/goosey, noodley out back anymore. I mean it was not horrible before like the 05 Ninja 250 was, but I could definitely feel it.

Also I will know on the ride home for sure, but again drive through the corners feels better. The back end before on hard drives and hard accel felt like the tire was breaking loose or greasy sometimes before, which I do not think it was. Cause now more swingarm angle should make it break loose more than squat would, who knows, I will know for sure later.

I messed with all the setting, pre-load ( I thought the way it came was way too pre-loaded for my weight), low and high speed compression, rebound (lower mount I think is way off) cause I did it in a hurry in the driveway as I was leaving this morning and I get my adjustments mixed up sometimes. I thought clockwise was all the way in soft, and then you turn towards hard X amount of turns. But the darn embossed shows the direction arrows, as I read them the opposite, so not sure where it is right now, lol

I also would like to do carts up front, but not sure myself either on investing and since most have you cutting the fork tubes, not committed to that kind of tear down and work right now...sounds like a winter job for me.


I am anxious to hear what the suspension experts and race setup says/shows to see what we have.

 

On the ride home to me, almost night and day. I went out at lunch and messed with the rebound, and believe I got the adjustments right. It feels better, not as teeth chattering and more forgiving and smooth on the bumps.

It is way more responsive and feels better, feed back 10 times better, more planted feeling, much smoother and better drives. Maybe its placebo effect but it feels like an entirely new bike.
I am no Rossi, Hayden or Colin Edwards, but I feel faster with it and smoother. Reminds me of how the SV handled but not as twitchy and sensitive.

 

Good one, sounds like you've had a win then. You should still get your son to help you measure your bike and rider sag though. Not essential but then you will know your in the ball park. The main mistake people make is thinking that the unloaded figure is taken when the bike is on a rear stand. And keep fiddling with compression and rebound clickers until your completely happy.

 

….SO where did you end up with the adjustments? Comp & rebound. I haven't touched them yet.

 

I had the GSXR 600/750 shock on my old GSXR400 race bike. Sorry for any confusion. I cant remember the settings now.
The K-tech shock I have on my Ninja 400 I am currently at -2 clicks on the recommended settings listed in the manual that came with the shock. But when the weather gets warmer I plan to get out and do some serious testing/evaluation. Completely different scenario for road set up but I like the fact that now if I do a track day I can tweak it to suit.

 

HI All, Got 6 sessions in today at Pocono's North Course. Back end felt fine to me. I had preload backed off. I think I was getting 25mm sag with me on bike and no gear. I didn't fiddle with any adjustments. Just rode. I have current gen GSX-R 600/750 shock, SPEARS rear ride height adjust & K-Tech springs up front (.80 & .85) with preload adjusters lightest adjust. Could put the bike wherever I wanted and anybody who has ridden Pocono knows how bad the transitions from the infield to the banking is. Rode around a couple big bikes today so I was happy.

 

Nice one, sounds like you ended up with a good upgrade there. Beating the big boys is always pleasing. :biggrin:
25mm rider sag is a good average setting for the track.
It might be worth having a play with the clickers if you can be bothered/are interested. Just take a note of what they are set on now so you have a known baseline to revert back too.