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Ok, I’ve put a few hundred miles on the bike since installing the Arashi rearsets. I really have nothing bad to say about them. It takes a little bit to get used to the altered riding position and the different foot pegs which are a bit smaller than stock. Another issue is if you are running the stock exhaust like I am then you will need to remove the exhaust shield or your foot will interfere with it. The shift feel is much improved and it’s a nice firm click into each gear...

If you’re on the fence about the quality of the the Arashi rearsets, don’t be. They are worth every penny!
 

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Rear sets

Put Woodcraft Rearsets on it on Sunday.

Don't like the slop in the brake pedal, but you can't feel it when using your foot. I ordered some stainless precision shims to potentially lessen the left to right slop on the pin.

Also had to replace the left footpeg mount plate, as previous owner laid it down in grass and the plate bent as well as the shift lever.

Its set up as GP shift right now. Seems to shift ok at this point. Will dial in the lever position later.
 

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Anodizing Rear sets

I went with the Anodizing rear sets for 60 bucks(EBay). My expectations were low and after 6 track days on them, I am happy to report they fit awesome and have held up fine. My friend brought the exact same set from Amazon and he is happy with them as well. The instructions were horrible, I found a Utube video of a guy putting on the same set on his 400. The brake side was a pain, I had to get a different spring from Lowe’s. The one that came with the set is too thick. My friend had a shop put his on and they didn’t use the supplied spring either. I set mines up with GP SHIFT and zero issues. My friends is standard. Awesome bang for the buck!

I wanted the Arashi ones, they look awesome with the touch of red. But when I emailed the seller if they could be set up for GP SHIFT he wasn’t sure. Looking at Boats I am sure they could be, oh well.
 

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I went with the Anodizing rear sets for 60 bucks(EBay). My expectations were low and after 6 track days on them, I am happy to report they fit awesome and have held up fine. My friend brought the exact same set from Amazon and he is happy with them as well. The instructions were horrible, I found a Utube video of a guy putting on the same set on his 400. The brake side was a pain, I had to get a different spring from Lowe’s. The one that came with the set is too thick. My friend had a shop put his on and they didn’t use the supplied spring either. I set mines up with GP SHIFT and zero issues. My friends is standard. Awesome bang for the buck!

I wanted the Arashi ones, they look awesome with the touch of red. But when I emailed the seller if they could be set up for GP SHIFT he wasn’t sure. Looking at Boats I am sure they could be, oh well.
Yes, I can confirm the Arashi rearsets can be set up for GP shift. I tried it during install...
 

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So this (rearsets) is a mod I am thinking about doing but I'd like to see what some of you think before I do. I currently only use my Ninja 400 on the street, but I feel like when I scoot my butt back and try to get a decent tuck going on there's some back strain with the stock footpeg mount. Also, I have pretty small feet (size 8), with the stock config, I have to have my heel on the pegs to shift properly.


So for the people who have done these installs on their street bike. How is the comfort and do you think it's worth it to do this mod to a primarily street bike?
 

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Finally got around to installing the Arashi rearsets. I haven’t test ridden yet though...

Fitment is good. Stock brake light works with these and they provide a spring that you cut to length. Took me a bit to get it just right...

I had a few small issues when installing. The shift rod they provide is too long. I had to cut about 1/2” of thread off of each end in order to get the shifter low enough. Also, the heel guard was ever so slightly in the way of the shift rod end so I mounted it on the back side of the bracket and it gave me plenty of clearance...

I mounted them the furthest forward and lowest position and they are still about 2” further back and 1” higher than stock. It’s a pretty big difference...

My initial impressions from just sitting on the bike are positive...

I’ll take it for a spin tomorrow and update...

View attachment 9311

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Any chance you could put a pic up of the brake light switch and how long you cut the spring I've just installed the same rearsets and can't seem to get it so the switch will work
 

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Any chance you could put a pic up of the brake light switch and how long you cut the spring I've just installed the same rearsets and can't seem to get it so the switch will work
I’ll do it tomorrow and post a pic here...
 

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So this (rearsets) is a mod I am thinking about doing but I'd like to see what some of you think before I do. I currently only use my Ninja 400 on the street, but I feel like when I scoot my butt back and try to get a decent tuck going on there's some back strain with the stock footpeg mount. Also, I have pretty small feet (size 8), with the stock config, I have to have my heel on the pegs to shift properly.


So for the people who have done these installs on their street bike. How is the comfort and do you think it's worth it to do this mod to a primarily street bike?
What's great about rearsets is their adjustability and their tight machining tolerance (no slop or play) on their hinges. The good ones will have bearings for smoothness. Remember rearsets are designed primarily for track/race use so you don't be scraping toes and feet when on full lean. Pay attention to their specs: how much higher and further back can the pegs be set. Some rearsets have further offsets than others. Since it is a street bike, make sure it has a brake light compatible mechanical switch (spring actuated) just like stock. I would avoid the ones that forego the mechanical brake switch that rely on a banjo pressure switch. I've read that a banjo pressure switch is not as reliable and can fail in a short time. Hence, you'll be replacing those pressure switches often.

In addition, you'll want to match rearsets with clip-ons to get that total sporty feel and position. I too felt very unnatural with the stock configuration when wanting to tuck or lean aggressively (5'7"). With clip-ons and rearsets, tucking has a more natural engaging sensation. So if it's bugging you that much, I say go for it! You can always go back to stock form.
 

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Any chance you could put a pic up of the brake light switch and how long you cut the spring I've just installed the same rearsets and can't seem to get it so the switch will work
Sorry for the delay. You probably already have it figured out. Here’s the pic you requested. My method for determining length was to bend it a little at a time and test it until I found a length that worked. Don’t cut it until you have it set just right. Then you can play with the little bottom bracket if you need to adjust some more because the holes are slotted...hopefully this helps someone.
 

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Picked up the Arashi 2.0 Rearsets and will be installing them this weekend. Anything to look out for or other words of advice from others who've done the same?
 

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Picked up the Arashi 2.0 Rearsets and will be installing them this weekend. Anything to look out for or other words of advice from others who've done the same?
How did you get on? Have you got a different brake line that will reach the new rear brake mc location?

I've just ordered the 2.0 Arashi rearsets and the Yoshimura Goodridge brake line extension Part # YOSH-14710-CH. I'm leaving the remaining brake lines stock.
 

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I didn't need to extend the brake line - I was able to pull it further back to fit. I also rerouted the brake light cable away from the last cable holder and pulled an inch or two through the second one further up. It reaches the mounting location fine.

I ran into two issues that I'm going to have to figure out:

1) The brake light won't activate as there doesn't appear to be enough movement at the right angle between the brake lever and the actuator. I tried sizing the included spring in different lengths and bends and I just can't get it to work consistently. In the few times that I got it to work, it ended up getting stuck on the ON position - not good. Anyone else run into that issue?

2) I had to adjust the brake cable tensioner all the way to the lowest setting and it appears that it is still pushing the brake line in such that there's a bit of brake pressure at rest position. Again, anyone else run into this?

One issue that I as well as other aftermarket rearset users have encountered is the shift-side heel guard interferes with the shift rod in some of the user-selectable peg positions. The fix is to mount it on the inside towards the bike instead. See my picture in the post below.
 
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OK, I adjusted the brake some more (I had more room on the adjustment nut that I didn't realize) and I discovered that the bracket for the brake light actuator can be adjusted as well to cant in a different angle. It is more directly inline with the spring bracket so it pulls straight down now. I ended up breaking the spring that came with the rearset since it was kinda flimsy but was able to bend the OEM one to fit my needs and everything appears to be in order now.



 

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Foobar, mind sharing what kind of engine case covers those are in the photo? They look similar in style to T-Rex's.
 

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Foobar, mind sharing what kind of engine case covers those are in the photo? They look similar in style to T-Rex's.
In fact, they are T-Rex. :clap:
 
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I didn't need to extend the brake line - I was able to pull it further back to fit. I also rerouted the brake light cable away from the last cable holder and pulled an inch or two through the second one further up. It reaches the mounting location fine.

I ran into two issues that I'm going to have to figure out:

1) The brake light won't activate as there doesn't appear to be enough movement at the right angle between the brake lever and the actuator. I tried sizing the included spring in different lengths and bends and I just can't get it to work consistently. In the few times that I got it to work, it ended up getting stuck on the ON position - not good. Anyone else run into that issue?

2) I had to adjust the brake cable tensioner all the way to the lowest setting and it appears that it is still pushing the brake line in such that there's a bit of brake pressure at rest position. Again, anyone else run into this?

One issue that I as well as other aftermarket rearset users have encountered is the shift-side heel guard interferes with the shift rod in some of the user-selectable peg positions. The fix is to mount it on the inside towards the bike instead. See my picture in the post below.
That's good news re the brake line for ABS models. I think I might just be able to cancel my order for the brake line extension (hopefully!).

Aside from the issues, how do you rate the new peg position? Any idea on how the position differs from stock (50mm further back, 50mm up etc)?
 

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I have to take it for a longer ride but it's raining today so I won't be able to do that yet. In my current configuration it's about 2.5 inches above and 5 inches back from where the stock peg is, at least by my eyeball measuring.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
I have to take it for a longer ride but it's raining today so I won't be able to do that yet. In my current configuration it's about 2.5 inches above and 5 inches back from where the stock peg is, at least by my eyeball measuring.
5 inches is like 125mm! Did you mean 5cm? They look good.
 

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5 inches is like 125mm! Did you mean 5cm? They look good.
I did a closer inspection, it's more like 4 inches back from stock. The precision finish is pretty damned good in my opinion. We'll see how it holds up - the Chinese have been working with Aluminium long enough that I trust it's good so long as they actually tried to do it right.

Also, the bike is sitting on a rear stand so the angle looks more exaggerated than it's supposed to be since the ass is up in the air.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
I did a closer inspection, it's more like 4 inches back from stock. The precision finish is pretty damned good in my opinion. We'll see how it holds up - the Chinese have been working with Aluminium long enough that I trust it's good so long as they actually tried to do it right.

Also, the bike is sitting on a rear stand so the angle looks more exaggerated than it's supposed to be since the ass is up in the air.
I've had a bunch of them now with no issues, you'll be sweet.
 
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