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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Running Bonamici rearsets, but I'd imagine others have similar issues. Does anyone have any tips for increasing ground clearance on rearsets, especially the levers?
I mean technically I've increased clearance on my shift and rear brake levers using the ground to sand them down, but a less awkward way would be nice.

Both levers are adjusted as high as I can go. I guess I could maybe move the shift knuckle a little to lift the gear lever, although I'm pretty close to the limit already if not there.
I noticed Norton has a "stock footpeg riser", was thinking maybe I could put rearsets on that, but I'm also cheap and in Australia, so that would be an expensive trial.
 

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can I ask why? what "similar" issues are we having?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
can I ask why? what "similar" issues are we having?
This part:
I mean technically I've increased clearance on my shift and rear brake levers using the ground to sand them down, but a less awkward way would be nice.
I'm scraping levers a bunch, I would like to not scrape levers, or preferably anything unless I'm crashing. I don't think my lean angles on track are really worthy of scraping noises (low 50's looking at GPS device).

"Similar" because I'm sure other people have hit this. I've seen people on this forum talking about certain brands of rearsets having clearance issues for e.g., would imagine that was from experience.
 

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well being a Bonamici dealer I have to ask certain question...I have 3 sets on various builds with some pretty fast riders.....one set of vortex that "most" are complaining sit lower than other brands yet higher than stock.I have one guy on stock rear sets that's pretty quick and doesn't "grind". I'm running a pretty quick pace at JGP and no issues with these rear sets...BUT I'm well aware that I can't ride this bike like I do my SS which bring me to the question about your riding position? what's you level of riding and what other bikes have yuo owned and raced/track days? understand these bikes CAN'T be leaned over as far as a SS so hanging off the bike more is a must if you have a fast pace.also are you on stock suspension ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ah right. Yeah I definitely need to work on my body position, it's somewhere between "looks like he's trying" and "he's going right, but his body looks like he's going left". So that's a good call.
I sort of assumed the bike would hit high 50's without scraping if you have rearsets on, but sounds like that's not the case.

Riding level, I'm in the group below the fastest for this track. Fastest is 1:05 or faster, I'm getting low to mid 1:08's when I have clear track. Track record for my class is around 1:03. Other bikes are S1000RR and Street Triple but I was slow on them, so I don't think I can really compare.

Suspension is YSS stuff set up by a shop, nowhere near top of the line, but also doesn't squat when a butterfly lands on the tail like the stock suspension.
 

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hard to give any advice not knowing or seeing how you ride,but like I said,I have some fast experts that are on stock pegs and they don't grind and I have those rear sets on my bike that's a full blow race nike and don't have any issues at all,I also don't try to lean it over to far as I'm more worried about running out of tyre than grinding a peg !! get with a track coach.control rider or someone in the expert group to help you out is the best advice I can give you
 

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I unfortunately have the Vortex set and stupid long legs so finding a position that doesn't grind and give me cramps has been a chore. What I eventually found is the rear of the bike had to come way up and like @Duckman said I ended up dropping the front down some too. Before getting it all dialed in I would touch down here and there but now I don't touch at all and my peg height is not on the highest position. I am not a Pro rider but I'm not a slow rider either.

By the sounds of it you have a good pace so I am going to assume that you are fighting a riding position issue. Hard to say though like @jetpilot01 said without seeing video or a few pictures. If the bike is set up for the track, which it sounds like it is then there really shouldn't be any reason you'd be dragging anything unless you have some extreme angles on your shift and brake levers.

Post some pics or video of you riding and a picture of the rearset area so we can give stronger advise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Raise the bike. Get the Spears shock extender and drop the forks.
Oh interesting, thanks, I never really considered that. Googling it seems it can make handling a bit "heavier", but better than touching the ground with some hard things and lifting a wheel.

By the sounds of it you have a good pace so I am going to assume that you are fighting a riding position issue.
I definitely have riding/body position issues. I've been putting off working on it, as I was running stock bars and stock seat until this latest track day. Figured I'd be changing ergos soon so it was a bit of waste of time trying to get in a good position with the high stock bars.

I run a helmet cam, so I don't really have any body position examples until the track day photos come through, but I already know what they will look like, either crossed up or very slightly hanging off depending on how much I remembered to think about my body position for the given corner.

I'll go out next track day with a mission to think about my body position and see how it goes. I think my incorrect assumption was that a stock height N400 with rearsets would be hitting close to or over 60 degrees before scraping. If that's not the case then yeah, sounds like my shoddy body position is limiting my corner speed and/or I should consider raising the bike.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No. Actually just the opposite if done correctly.
Nice, thanks!

I chased up my suspension guy, apparently my shock has 5mm of ride height adjustments in the rear, which would give me around 15mm additional ground clearance (no idea how the math works, guess angles etc). So I'll top that out and see how it feels next track day. Apparently it should only effect the front end "slightly", internet seems to suggest it will make tip in easier but may effect stability. See how noticeable it all is and adjust down from there if I'm having dramas.

Will also work on body position so I look less ridiculous when the lazy track photographer uploads stuff 6 months later.
 

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Quite a few variables here. Have you raised the bike at all? What's the shock length? What's your front ride height? What tires are you using? All of those things affect the height and ground clearance. Additionally, I assume your rear sets are already set at their highest setting, but how high is that? Then it's a matter of body and foot position in the turns. Lets see some picture of you in a turn. If you're trying to ride it like **** Doohan used to, then yeah you're going to scrape a lot of stuff on these bikes lol I've seen kids dragging elbows on the 400 without scraping pegs, so it's all in how much you hang off the bike. I used to scrape occasionally...very rarely only in certain turns at a couple of tracks when I had Vortex rear sets. It was enough that it made me want to switch to Woodcraft which can go about 20 mm higher or so. No dragging toes or scraping anything since I've made the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Quite a few variables here. Have you raised the bike at all? What's the shock length? What's your front ride height? What tires are you using?
Honestly, the only thing I can answer confidently there is the tires, which are 110/70, 140/70 Supercorsas. I recently had a fork catridge kit installed and a new shock. I do not believe they raised anything during that, but I guess by default the parts may have changed the geom a little.

Shock (YSS MG456) -- Catridge Kit (YSS 20mm Cartridge Kit)

I can apparently increase the shock length with ease +5mm, so I will try that for my next track day for science.

Body position I definitely need to work on, I'm somewhere between luggage and Dick (to avoid censorship) Doohan. So that is 100% a problem. I guess I just assumed with rearsets the bike would happily hit very high lean angles without scrapes, but it sounds like that is not the case unless you raise the bike.

Images I wont have until the track photographer puts stuff online, which can be anywhere up to a month later. But I can tell you it's not going to be pretty, be surprised if I'm getting off the bike at all half the time.
All I really have at the moment is helmet cam footage, here, but that won't be very representative of body position, and mostly put up because a friend asked me to follow him initially for footage (636). Which went fine until I went in too hot ("feel wise", video wise in hindsight I probably could have made it easy) at one point and bailed on a corner.

Thanks for the help guys. I'll see how I go raising the bike, and make an effort to finally commit to learning proper body position, instead of being lazy. I only just installed clip ons. So I justified myself being lazy about BP because of stock bars, no excuses now.

Going to have to put a TODO note on the back of my windscreen or something, have a habit of getting on track and forgetting to do the things I set out to work on.

Additionally, I assume your rear sets are already set at their highest setting, but how high is that?
Hm, I'll have to measure.. somehow. But yeah, already at their highest setting. Still running road shift, I may be able to get more height out of the shift lever by going to race shift (assuming that involves flipping the knuckle). Doesn't help the brake lever, but also less concerned about that.
 

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Honestly, the only thing I can answer confidently there is the tires, which are 110/70, 140/70 Supercorsas. I recently had a fork catridge kit installed and a new shock. I do not believe they raised anything during that, but I guess by default the parts may have changed the geom a little.

Shock (YSS MG456) -- Catridge Kit (YSS 20mm Cartridge Kit)

I can apparently increase the shock length with ease +5mm, so I will try that for my next track day for science.

Body position I definitely need to work on, I'm somewhere between luggage and Dick (to avoid censorship) Doohan. So that is 100% a problem. I guess I just assumed with rearsets the bike would happily hit very high lean angles without scrapes, but it sounds like that is not the case unless you raise the bike.

Images I wont have until the track photographer puts stuff online, which can be anywhere up to a month later. But I can tell you it's not going to be pretty, be surprised if I'm getting off the bike at all half the time.
All I really have at the moment is helmet cam footage, here, but that won't be very representative of body position, and mostly put up because a friend asked me to follow him initially for footage (636). Which went fine until I went in too hot ("feel wise", video wise in hindsight I probably could have made it easy) at one point and bailed on a corner.

Thanks for the help guys. I'll see how I go raising the bike, and make an effort to finally commit to learning proper body position, instead of being lazy. I only just installed clip ons. So I justified myself being lazy about BP because of stock bars, no excuses now.

Going to have to put a TODO note on the back of my windscreen or something, have a habit of getting on track and forgetting to do the things I set out to work on.


Hm, I'll have to measure.. somehow. But yeah, already at their highest setting. Still running road shift, I may be able to get more height out of the shift lever by going to race shift (assuming that involves flipping the knuckle). Doesn't help the brake lever, but also less concerned about that.
Some things to help with that, although one of them will be a bit of a pain to do now and would've been easier done when installed.

1. Front ride height: measure how much of the fork tube is visible above the top triple clamp. For me it's at 20mm at the moment just to give you an idea.

2. Rear height: generally referred as the shock length. Measure center of eyelet to center of eyelet. Basically impossible to do on the bike, need to have the shock off. However knowing that is not all that relevant if you can't do much about it anyway, so if you can adjust the height, crank it all the way up as far as it goes. Make sure you follow the guidelines in the manual in case there isn't an actual hard stop for the adjuster. It's basically just like a screw that you thread in or out more so if you go too much it'll come out so don't go too far! lol I'm not familiar with that brand but Ohlins, K-tech, Bitubo, etc usually have a diagram that show what's the point that you should exceed when adjusting it.

3. Take a picture of the side of the bike in the rear sets area. Also, a crude measurement is to somehow hold the bike upright on the ground and leveled, and measure from top or bottom of the foot peg to the ground. I did this with Vortex and Woodcraft when I compared them. However since @jetpilot01 is a Bonamici dealer, maybe he can enlighten us on how much higher they can go relative to stock.

With all that said, unless the Bonamici rear sets sit very low compared to other brands (which I doubt), my bet is on your body positioning as being the main cause of you scraping around. You're probably over-leaning the bike and are really flirting with the edge of grip. But I'll reserve judgement until I see some pics of you at full lean. Just speculating at this point.
 

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I like how @sbk1198 used the word "enlighten" !! that enlightened my day 😝 sooooooo I can actually measure 3 bikes 1) stock bike with stock rear sets 2) hulk w/ bomamici rear sets 3) capt america w/vortext and I actually have a set of woodcraft i can mount just to get a measurement . all in all what @sbk1198 is spot on with what he just wrote,something with your riding style is compromising the bikes hardware ! as I said previously,it's IMPERATIVE you get with a control rider or coach at your local track and have him follow you with a camera and he should be able to give you some helpful advice !!
 

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I like how @sbk1198 used the word "enlighten" !! that enlightened my day 😝 sooooooo I can actually measure 3 bikes 1) stock bike with stock rear sets 2) hulk w/ bomamici rear sets 3) capt america w/vortext and I actually have a set of woodcraft i can mount just to get a measurement . all in all what @sbk1198 is spot on with what he just wrote,something with your riding style is compromising the bikes hardware ! as I said previously,it's IMPERATIVE you get with a control rider or coach at your local track and have him follow you with a camera and he should be able to give you some helpful advice !!
That would actually be a very useful comparison to see the numbers for all those 4 if you can take those measurements. Put the aftermarket ones at the highest setting and then measure all the same way. I've only done that with Vortex and Woodcraft and I don't remember the numbers exactly but I recall that Woodcrafts were about 20 mm higher.
 

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VORTEX ARE HORRIBLE 💩 for race that is ! I will post all that data ASAP but just a reference , if you look at the fastener that holds the rubber chain guard in place,the stock pegs lay under the swingarm,the vortex is about even with the bottom of the swingarm,bonamici close to the fastener and woodcraft above it..huge differences !!
 
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