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PAIR valve removal

19K views 19 replies 12 participants last post by  Toqui 
#1 · (Edited)
In my quest to turn my Ninja into the skeleton bike I decided to rip another chunk of it off today. I've got a bit of a thing about emission control add ons, it's just extra clutter IMO. So I lowered my sights on the PAIR valve assembly today and removed it.

The PAIR valve system injects air taken from the airbox into the exhaust ports to aid further combustion of unburnt fuel left over from the combustion process. It's also a way of diluting emissions down for the sniffer test when manufacturers are trying to meet the stringent emission regs we have now like Euro 4.
Removing it has no effect on the way the bike runs but can reduce popping on deceleration esp if you are running an aftermarket exhaust system.

Here's how to remove it:

1. Remove the larger of the two hoses coming out of the RH side of the airbox.
Pipe Auto part Automotive exhaust Exhaust system Fuel line


2. Remove the rubber hose attached to the pipe that goes into the rocker cover.
Auto part Engine Automotive lighting Vehicle Car


3. Disconnect the electrical connection (light blue plug)
Auto part Vehicle Engine Car Pipe


4. You can now remove the PAIR valve assembly.
Hand Room


5. Cover over the hole in the airbox with electrical tape or some sort of cap and find a plug for the rocker cover pipe. I found this rubber one at work and used 'Heldite' as a sealing compound. Great product, made in England so must be good :)
Product Door Glass Room Interior design

Auto part Engine Automotive engine part Vehicle Metal


On a test ride I found the bike run exactly the same as before removal.
I do have another error code showing now - 64 Air switching valve malfunction, wiring open or short.
 
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#5 ·
Correct resistor??

Ok I need some help with this one as electrics/electronics is a weak point with me. Initially I fitted a 22 ohm resistor into the end of the plug where the Pair valve was plugged in so i could eliminate error code 64. I got this figure of 22 ohms by doing a resistance test on the wiring of the PAIR valve. Whilst it cleared the error code it also flattened my battery by triggering some circuit to stay open or something like that.
Recently @kwik rider recommended a 680ohm/0.5W resistor so I purchased one last wkd and fitted that. But then when I went to start the bike this afternoon the battery was dead flat again..
Here's a pic of the one I purchased:
Resistor Passive circuit component Technology


I see TST industries do a block off plate kit for $35 but i only need the PAIR AIS Eliminator Circuit plug

https://tstindustries.com/tst-emission-block-off-kit-kawasaki-ninja-400-z400-2018.html

Anyone got any thoughts?
 
#7 ·
Ok I need some help with this one as electrics/electronics is a weak point with me. Initially I fitted a 22 ohm resistor into the end of the plug where the Pair valve was plugged in so i could eliminate error code 64. I got this figure of 22 ohms by doing a resistance test on the wiring of the PAIR valve. Whilst it cleared the error code it also flattened my battery by triggering some circuit to stay open or something like that.
Recently @kwik rider recommended a 680ohm/0.5W resistor so I purchased one last wkd and fitted that. But then when I went to start the bike this afternoon the battery was dead flat again..
Here's a pic of the one I purchased:
View attachment 8365

I see TST industries do a block off plate kit for $35 but i only need the PAIR AIS Eliminator Circuit plug

https://tstindustries.com/tst-emission-block-off-kit-kawasaki-ninja-400-z400-2018.html

Anyone got any thoughts?
I bought the graves kit first and realized there was no resistor, so then I ended up getting the tst kit too.. So now I have an extra plate and air box plug ?. But so I wouldn’t trigger the check engine light I had to do it.
 
#12 ·
I’ve seen in other threads that 680 Ohm .5 watt works for both. I just measured 463 Ohm resistance across the pins of the TST resistor plug I will install on my bike next time I perform fairings-off surgery. For reference, I got 683 Ohm on one of the 100 (which is 99 more than I need) 680-Ohm resistors I ordered for the carbon canister removal.
 
#17 ·
The Sportbike Trackgear video that shows the AIS removal says that the reed plate needs to STAY, as it provides the perimeter SEAL. Apparently, there is no perimeter seal on either the OEM plate or the aftermarket plates. Without it, you will likely get some air leakage under the blockoff plate (whether you use the OEM or aftermarket plate).

Jim G
 
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