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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
In my quest to turn my Ninja into the skeleton bike I decided to rip another chunk of it off today. I've got a bit of a thing about emission control add ons, it's just extra clutter IMO. So I lowered my sights on the PAIR valve assembly today and removed it.

The PAIR valve system injects air taken from the airbox into the exhaust ports to aid further combustion of unburnt fuel left over from the combustion process. It's also a way of diluting emissions down for the sniffer test when manufacturers are trying to meet the stringent emission regs we have now like Euro 4.
Removing it has no effect on the way the bike runs but can reduce popping on deceleration esp if you are running an aftermarket exhaust system.

Here's how to remove it:

1. Remove the larger of the two hoses coming out of the RH side of the airbox.
P1000191.JPG

2. Remove the rubber hose attached to the pipe that goes into the rocker cover.
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3. Disconnect the electrical connection (light blue plug)
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4. You can now remove the PAIR valve assembly.
P1000194.JPG

5. Cover over the hole in the airbox with electrical tape or some sort of cap and find a plug for the rocker cover pipe. I found this rubber one at work and used 'Heldite' as a sealing compound. Great product, made in England so must be good :)
P1000197.JPG
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On a test ride I found the bike run exactly the same as before removal.
I do have another error code showing now - 64 Air switching valve malfunction, wiring open or short.
 

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Tst industries have a block off kit for this, I just purchased one. They seem to include an electrical plug to stop the bike from displaying a code too. Cheers for the how to Kiwi
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Correct resistor??

Ok I need some help with this one as electrics/electronics is a weak point with me. Initially I fitted a 22 ohm resistor into the end of the plug where the Pair valve was plugged in so i could eliminate error code 64. I got this figure of 22 ohms by doing a resistance test on the wiring of the PAIR valve. Whilst it cleared the error code it also flattened my battery by triggering some circuit to stay open or something like that.
Recently @kwik rider recommended a 680ohm/0.5W resistor so I purchased one last wkd and fitted that. But then when I went to start the bike this afternoon the battery was dead flat again..
Here's a pic of the one I purchased:
P1000807.JPG

I see TST industries do a block off plate kit for $35 but i only need the PAIR AIS Eliminator Circuit plug

https://tstindustries.com/tst-emission-block-off-kit-kawasaki-ninja-400-z400-2018.html

Anyone got any thoughts?
 

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Tst industries have a block off kit for this, I just purchased one. They seem to include an electrical plug to stop the bike from displaying a code too. Cheers for the how to Kiwi
That’s a great write up! Yes, tst includes a resistor in their kit.. I’ve seen other kits out there that do not include a resistor. I’m using the Graves plate with a resistor from tst. No check engine light.
 

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Ok I need some help with this one as electrics/electronics is a weak point with me. Initially I fitted a 22 ohm resistor into the end of the plug where the Pair valve was plugged in so i could eliminate error code 64. I got this figure of 22 ohms by doing a resistance test on the wiring of the PAIR valve. Whilst it cleared the error code it also flattened my battery by triggering some circuit to stay open or something like that.
Recently @kwik rider recommended a 680ohm/0.5W resistor so I purchased one last wkd and fitted that. But then when I went to start the bike this afternoon the battery was dead flat again..
Here's a pic of the one I purchased:
View attachment 8365

I see TST industries do a block off plate kit for $35 but i only need the PAIR AIS Eliminator Circuit plug

https://tstindustries.com/tst-emission-block-off-kit-kawasaki-ninja-400-z400-2018.html

Anyone got any thoughts?
I bought the graves kit first and realized there was no resistor, so then I ended up getting the tst kit too.. So now I have an extra plate and air box plug ?. But so I wouldn’t trigger the check engine light I had to do it.
 

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Thanks, yeah might be worth a try if I cant work out what the correct resistor to fit is.
And while we’re at it, get us the specs on the resistor to use for the Evap canister removal. I was planning to do both of these mods at the same time in the near future, but the engine code issue is what’s stopping me...
 

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I’ve seen in other threads that 680 Ohm .5 watt works for both. I just measured 463 Ohm resistance across the pins of the TST resistor plug I will install on my bike next time I perform fairings-off surgery. For reference, I got 683 Ohm on one of the 100 (which is 99 more than I need) 680-Ohm resistors I ordered for the carbon canister removal.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
And while we’re at it, get us the specs on the resistor to use for the Evap canister removal. I was planning to do both of these mods at the same time in the near future, but the engine code issue is what’s stopping me...
Ah yes code 3A Purge valve malfunction, wiring open or short I seem to have got rid of that one without fitting anything to the end of the plug. I think from memory the tuner guy was able to disable it using the Woolich software. There was also a check box there for the PAIR valve but annoyingly it did not work.

"electrical tape" the ghetto mechanics best friend !!!:sarcasm:
You betcha! I have multiple rolls of the stuff scattered far and wide so always close to hand. :biggrin:

... I just measured 463 Ohm resistance across the pins of the TST resistor plug I will install on my bike next time I perform fairings-off surgery.
Thanks for that, could be worth a try. I wondering why it so finicky with it's resistance? You can tell I'm a mechanical engineer and not electrical!
 

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I am not that familiar with the N400. I like the idea of getting rid of smog crap, but am not that familiar with the bike. Assuming the TST kit, Which fairing pieces have to come off to get at the respective parts?
 
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