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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello guys and first of all, sorry for making a post about this controversial mater (Coolants) and something already debated in the forum, although i have read all the older posts about coolant i still have some questions. Any info will be gladly appreciated.

I am from Portugal and over here we dont have Engine Ice or Water Wetter or Prestone or any of those coolants from the USA, what we have widely available is Motul products, I bought 2 bottles of Motul Motocool Expert to replace the stock coolant but i dont know if it is safe to use. It says it is safe on motorcycle engines made of aluminium, safe on gaskets, rubber and sealants but it doesn't say it is silicate free, i read all over the internet that bikes need silicate free coolant but i also believe the OEM coolant that is green has silicates in it. So what should i do? Can i use Motocool on my N400? Has anyone used it before? What do you have to say about Motocool Expert or silicate coolants in bikes?

Motocool Expert: MOTOCOOL EXPERT - Motul

I know this is a boring topic and an exhausted one, but the info can help me make up my mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Dunno 'bout that particular product, butt from my experience, anything with Motul on the label is good. ;)
Thanks, either that or i go with OEM coolant from my dealer. I am skeptical because a guy back in 2012 used it in his XT660 and 8k Km later the water pump mechanical seal failed, but its the only case of damage i heard, could be his seal was already faulty.
 

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Yup, I would use the Motul, it meets all the recommended specifications from kawa. It's nice they added the extra bitter flavor to discourage drinking.

PS, mechanical water seals fail commonly, especially at higher mileage.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yup, I would use the Motul, it meets all the recommended specifications from kawa. It's nice they added the extra bitter flavor to discourage drinking.

PS, mechanical water seals fail commonly, especially at higher mileage.
Thank you for the input! I think i will use these bottles and see how it goes. The bike that the seal failed had 28k Km or around 17k miles, weird but i believe some yamaha models have problems with water pump seals, the MT-07 is one of them i think, the early models at least.
 

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Yeah, pretty much all production vehicles have aluminum engines, bikes and cars, so coolant manufacturers would have to formulate there products to meet manufacturers specs, just to stay competitive.

PS, i'm gonna change and flush my coolant this week as well. Let me know if you have a gasket under the coolant reservoir tank. Cause my resorvoir tank will tend to leak coolant, and I don't know exactly if it's a lack of gasket under the reservoir cap.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I believe the reservoir tank cap has no gasket or rubber seal, but i will check. Does it leak from the cap or at the end of the overflow hose?
 

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It's a small micro leak coming from the cap area. Nothing gushing, I will only see dried up coolant spots just below the cap area. I'm gonna install a 1.6 bar radiator cap I purchased from Spears long ago. It should fix it, I hope.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That is weird, mine is at the full line since i got the bike, never spilled or smelled any coolant. Yo can try going on a really aggressive ride in a hot day, you want to warm the bike as much as possible, and when you get home or in the middle of the ride check for coolant leaking when the bike is still hot and running, visually look, dont touch any coolant. I can only see it coming from the cap if it gets so hot and overflows to the level of the cap or you have too much water in the coolant and it evaporates with heat and comes out through the reservoir cap, either way, change the coolant and see if the problem persists before installing the new radiator cap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
It's a small micro leak coming from the cap area. Nothing gushing, I will only see dried up coolant spots just below the cap area. I'm gonna install a 1.6 bar radiator cap I purchased from Spears long ago. It should fix it, I hope.
In this diagram from the service manual it looks like it should have a rubber seal in the reservoir cap!
Cooling Exploded view.png

Link to the part number and diagram:

And here are some more pages about the cooling system and the coolant:
Coolant flow chart.png Coolant.png
 

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I coulda sworn my gasket is MIA. Anyways, I'm about to put her into surgery, need to replace the cylinder coolant seal with the Norton seal. Also a coolant flush is due (perfect timing). Going to add Samco silicone radiator hoses. Just can't wait to get it all done, and ride it worry free!
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Nice, glad to hear that! Good luck with the surgery, get that rubber seal on the cap and let me know how it turned out. If you can take some pictures or video of the surgery i would love to watch. I love to work and watch people work on bikes, i am still working my garage to build a little motorcycle shop for myself. I have quite some bikes to restore.
 

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I figure, by doing this task, I'll be able to observe the condition and specifications of some of the components in the engine. And I'll be more familiar with the tear down when the time comes for valve adjustments. I'll be sure to document any weird things or tricks that I probably will come by for those like you who are interested. Stay tuned...
 
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With all that said, does the coolant color really matter? As long as it meets all standarts, is it really a thing to go by?
 

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If you can match the color of your bike, why not? :p. We're a crazy bunch when it comes to modifying our motorcycles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
With all that said, does the coolant color really matter? As long as it meets all standarts, is it really a thing to go by?
I dont know, i prefer to look at the specifications sheet, for me the color is just die in the coolant to make it visible. There are some coolants out there that are clear as water with no color. I just make sure to flush every little drop of the old coolant out, mixing coolants is a NO NO, fill with distilled water 3 or 4 times and run the engine until the fan comes on and drain, repeat until clear water comes out. Also i think "kawasaki Aluma-cool" (OEM coolant) its cheaper than motul but i already bought the 2 bottles.

 

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This is the most detailed DIY for coolant flush that I have ever seen. Credit to "Ninja 250 Motorcycle Maintenance".

 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Called my dealer today to know the price on the OEM Kawasaki Aluma-Cool, he said he doesn't sell it! I am done with this dealer, he aint seeing one penny from me.
 

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I haven't preformed a coolant change on mine yet (3 year mark approaching soon, and probably will hang to that a bit more cause I dont really ride lately), I did preform it once on my old bike 3 years ago and that was the first time and only time I did it, simply drained the coolant, and then the resevior I think, closed, filled resevoir and the radiator, left the radiator open, turned on the bike, and as coolant level was going down poured some more until it settled on the top end, closed it and then filled resevour if needed. (I really dont remember it that great), but that's about how I learned to do it. As much as I can remember.

Oh and kids.. dont open the radiator while engine's hot. And use gloves as coolant cancerous....
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Oh and kids.. dont open the radiator while engine's hot. And use gloves as coolant cancerous....
Learned that the hard way in my old Kubota L245 tractor, 2nd degree burn in my hand, glad it was only water in the radiator, no coolant. The water shot like 10m high in the air, i was under an apple tree and the leaves all died from burning. The tractor was overheating and we needed to add water frequently. NEVER AGAIN I AM GOING TO TOUCH A CAP WHEN HOT OR WARM. I still have PTSD. That summer i didnt ride because of my burn.
 
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