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Completely up to you put personally I would not bother with the extra 1/8th - 1/4 turn with the tool. Esp a fit young fellow like yourself with strong hands Lol.
Only makes them harder to get off again and you run the risk of over tightening.

I had a case of a filter coming loose once and leaking when I did it just by hand, or actually followed the torque spec in the manual which was very low (like 9-10 Nm if I recall), so ever since then I've been doing another 1/4 turn with a wrench after hand tightening as recommended by others. Haven't had any problems with filters since. Of course the first time I did that I went way more than a 1/4 turn because I didn't think it was tight enough...went like almost a full turn. That turned out into a 3-hour oil change the next time because it was jammed stuck lol Learned my lesson lol 1/8 to 1/4 turn works great though.
 

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I had a case of a filter coming loose once and leaking when I did it just by hand, or actually followed the torque spec in the manual which was very low (like 9-10 Nm if I recall), so ever since then I've been doing another 1/4 turn with a wrench after hand tightening as recommended by others. Haven't had any problems with filters since. Of course the first time I did that I went way more than a 1/4 turn because I didn't think it was tight enough...went like almost a full turn. That turned out into a 3-hour oil change the next time because it was jammed stuck lol Learned my lesson lol 1/8 to 1/4 turn works great though.
Fair enough. What sort of a lock off system to you use on your Ninja to pass scrutineering? My SV just has a large diameter hose clamp that secures around the filter and then that is wired off to a drilled hole in one of the engine case lugs. I've always thought the set up looks a bit 'Heath Robinson'.
 

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Fair enough. What sort of a lock off system to you use on your Ninja to pass scrutineering? My SV just has a large diameter hose clamp that secures around the filter and then that is wired off to a drilled hole in one of the engine case lugs. I've always thought the set up looks a bit 'Heath Robinson'.

That's what I used to do as well on some of my bikes. But the HiFlo filters have drilled holes in the nut on the top so I just use that instead so there's no need to use a big hose clamp anymore.
 

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That's the tool I have too and it works well with any filter so that's what I've always used. Yeah you end up crushing the filter in the process but who cares since you're just going to toss it anyway? On the HiFlo filters you can still use a socket wrench to tighten it as long as you don't overdo it. I usually install them by hand until I can't turn them anymore, and then I put a wrench on the nut at the end and turn it another 1/8-1/4 turn.
This is a big no no.


I don't know why people have fetishes about overtightening an oil filter. There's literally picture instructions on the side of the box, and on the filter itself on how to put an oil filter on.


-oil on o-ring
-1/2 to 3/4 of a turn after the o ring touches the flange.




This isn't rocket science..
 

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That's the tool I have too and it works well with any filter so that's what I've always used. Yeah you end up crushing the filter in the process but who cares since you're just going to toss it anyway? On the HiFlo filters you can still use a socket wrench to tighten it as long as you don't overdo it. I usually install them by hand until I can't turn them anymore, and then I put a wrench on the nut at the end and turn it another 1/8-1/4 turn.
This is a big no no.


I don't know why people have fetishes about overtightening an oil filter. There's literally picture instructions on the side of the box, and on the filter itself on how to put an oil filter on.


-oil on o-ring
-1/2 to 3/4 of a turn after the o ring touches the flange.




This isn't rocket science..

Everybody is an expert!!!
 

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This is a big no no.


I don't know why people have fetishes about overtightening an oil filter. There's literally picture instructions on the side of the box, and on the filter itself on how to put an oil filter on.


-oil on o-ring
-1/2 to 3/4 of a turn after the o ring touches the flange.




This isn't rocket science..

Well that's how I've been doing it for years for reasons mentioned farther above, and it has worked well. 1/2 to 3/4 turns after the O-ring touches would be nowhere near enough. Had one come loose from doing it just by hand. Kawasaki specifies 12.9 lb-ft of torque for it...I can't do that by hand, certainly not gonna achieve that in half a turn after the O-ring touches. I'll check with the torque wrench next time but I doubt I've ever done more than like 15 lb-ft so I've been pretty close.
 

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Nothing expert about it, just saying everyone complains about the factory oil filter being too tight.. K&N has had issues that result in an outright ban of their nut style filters because people don't read or understand why the nut is there.


Kawasaki gives a torque spec because they take into account the thread size, o ring compression, and probably a couple other factors. Also a CYA factor for them. But every oil filter I've ever seen has a picture on the side to show how to tighten the filter because putting on a filter too tight is apparently a problem.


Even in this thread after trying to convey that you're not supposed to use the nut to tighten the filter and you should never use it, much less recommend it, someone still wants to use it because "they've never had a problem before" and "15ft lbs isn't that much" actually on a spot weld it is a very good amount. Keep using what works for you I guess until it doesn't. Go against what the manufacture of the oil filter recommends.
 

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Did my first oil change just a couple days ago. The smallest filter wrench I had was too big. So I put the wrench on the filter and shoved a couple bolts in between the band and filter. The bolt threads bit in and off it came. Where there's a will.
 

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Be very careful using channel locks to press in a caliper. I ruined two calipers once and had to pay for them. Since then I use an old brake pad against the piston and a cheap C clamp. Pliers will put uneven pressure on the piston and make them stick in the caliper bore.

The c clamp is a very easy and reliable method.

Would have saved me over two hundred dollars too.
Thanks for mentioning that!
Sorry about that, I always do that as well...couple old pads, or even the anti-squeak backing plates or whatever, anything to protect the pistons
 

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No doubt... the bike's original filter will be the most difficult to remove. Because, I'm going to follow the filter manufacturer's recommendation when I install the rest of my oil filters.
Had this scenario just the other day with the new SV. I was away form home and doing the first oil and filter change on the back lawn of my Air Bnb host in the dark using his house outside light and a half flat head torch, so not ideal conditions! Luckily I'd thrown in the van my vice grip style filter removal tool which has a chain that you wrap around the filter.
And yep, it was a mongrel to get off, but not quite as bad as my first Ninja filter removal episode.
I just dont get why they crank these suckers up so tight from the factory. They're exceeding their own guidelines as far as torque settings go and not lubing the mating surface. 🤔
 
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