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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I’m attempting to change my oil and filter today for the first time.
The filter on my Z is not cooperating. I’m an average size guy and have removed many filters. I consider myself a shady tree mechanic. This sucker is stuck. I tried a filter wrench which tightens down the more you twist the ratchet and a grip it strap wrench which has a rubber strap. The grip it dented the filter slightly on that end. Which is the strongest part of the filter. Still it won’t budge. Anyone else have this problem. I’m tempted to grab a screwdriver and hammer.
And yes I’m turning it lefty loosie.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I didn’t want to buy the OEM filter end. The replacement filters I purchased from STG has a molded in spot for a socket to attach. I’ll probably pick up a set of those aggressive looking pliers.

Thanks!

Thought this stuff only happened to me.
 

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Thought this stuff only happened to me.
Nope, Rest assured, you're in good company when it comes to unexpected problems while working on our bikes. Some of us do it well enough, and find those problems often enough, to have earned a merit badge along the way. :smile:
 

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I’m attempting to change my oil and filter today for the first time.
The filter on my Z is not cooperating. I’m an average size guy and have removed many filters. I consider myself a shady tree mechanic. This sucker is stuck. I tried a filter wrench which tightens down the more you twist the ratchet and a grip it strap wrench which has a rubber strap. The grip it dented the filter slightly on that end. Which is the strongest part of the filter. Still it won’t budge. Anyone else have this problem. I’m tempted to grab a screwdriver and hammer.
And yes I’m turning it lefty loosie.
ah, the notorious OEM oil filter.. no nut on it to use a regular wrench. i tried the strap wrench and the regular oil filter wrench but didnt budge.
This worked for me (el cheapo option) but then i guess you ve tried this as well.
lefty loose is correct. screwdriver should be the last resort and you sure are heading that way unless something clicks.
 

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I didn’t want to buy the OEM filter end. The replacement filters I purchased from STG has a molded in spot for a socket to attach. I’ll probably pick up a set of those aggressive looking pliers.

Thanks!

Thought this stuff only happened to me.



It happens to everyone with the removing the OEM filter for the first time. They actually torque them on there to spec.



I hope this doesn't need to be said but, DO NOT USE THE NUT TO INSTALL THE FILTER.


That nut on the back of the filter is for removal only. You can cause a leak at the spot weld if you use it to put the oil filter on. The issue is so bad a lot of tracks have BANNED K&N oil filters because of a defect in their filters. Also if you're using a K&N I'd suggest next time to look at the HiFlo Filtro filters. They're good quality and are very similar to OEM.
 

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On a side note here, since the discussion is on oil filter removal. I've found fitted oil filter wrenches like in the photo Jkoby27 posted.. At my local auto parts stores.. Advance Auto, Pep Boys, O'Reilly's, etc.. Go to the oil filter area, look for oil filter removal tools/wrenches, and you'll probably see 6 or 7 of these fitted tools in various sizes. Find one to fit the new oil filter you brought in hand, pay the approx. $5 for the tool, and you're off to the races next time oil change day arrives. Is it as robust and shiny as an OEM tool that costs $20-$30?.. well no. But it's certainly capable of working for a DIY rider doing his/her own oil changes, and not running an assembly line service routine. :nerd:
 

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On a side note here, since the discussion is on oil filter removal. I've found fitted oil filter wrenches like in the photo Jkoby27 posted.. At my local auto parts stores.. Advance Auto, Pep Boys, O'Reilly's, etc.. Go to the oil filter area, look for oil filter removal tools/wrenches, and you'll probably see 6 or 7 of these fitted tools in various sizes. Find one to fit the new oil filter you brought in hand, pay the approx. $5 for the tool, and you're off to the races next time oil change day arrives. Is it as robust and shiny as an OEM tool that costs $20-$30?.. well no. But it's certainly capable of working for a DIY rider doing his/her own oil changes, and not running an assembly line service routine. :nerd:
I'm gonna one up you :wink:
https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=oil filter removal tool
https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=oil filter

Lol all in good fun! :grin:
 

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I've used many, many different kinds of oil filter wrenches over the years and the nylon strap style has worked best for me: https://www.amazon.com/Tools-3149-Nylon-Strap-Wrnch/dp/B0002SR4MM/ref=pd_sbs_263_t_2/140-0393392-4824242?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002SR4MM&pd_rd_r=17529512-f0ce-4219-b52e-1d416663c3b3&pd_rd_w=9CMSl&pd_rd_wg=1yYVt&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=82A8P7D04ZBE55S0YW6X&psc=1&refRID=82A8P7D04ZBE55S0YW6X And grabbing it with two hands with some sand paper wrapped around the filter has also worked well. I don't recommend the "stick a screwdriver through the filter" method.
 

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I use a large pair of channel locks...always have. I bought a large pair for doing brake jobs to just press the caliper pistons back in(works like a charm, just make sure you have a rag over the fluid reservoir up top so it does not gyser out of there)


I also use those on oil filters where I can fit them in, usually at creative angles I can get a good enough bite to loosen it enough to do the rest by hand. I always hand tighten my filters.
 

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Yep, always hand tighten only. It doesn't take much overtightening to make an oil filter leak. Been there, done that.
 

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I use a large pair of channel locks...always have. I bought a large pair for doing brake jobs to just press the caliper pistons back in(works like a charm, just make sure you have a rag over the fluid reservoir up top so it does not gyser out of there)


I also use those on oil filters where I can fit them in, usually at creative angles I can get a good enough bite to loosen it enough to do the rest by hand. I always hand tighten my filters.
I service a lot of plant and machinery as part of my work. 16" Channel lock tongue and groove pliers is our go to every time. Like you said, you only have to get them in on some sort of angle with minimal contact and then the sheer grip strength they provide will do the rest.

+1 for hand tighten only, never use a tool.
 

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Also check to make sure the o-ring comes off with the filter..........watched a guy when I worked on Volvos put a new filter on with the old o-ring stuck on the filter mount......double stacked the o-rings, put oil in the car started it up and wondered why oil was shooting out all over the floor, lol :)


Never had this happen to me on a motorcycle, but always something I double check
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I went to my local auto parts store
last night and picked up a pair of those red handled filter pliers YardDog posted. They worked! It was still difficult to brake that filter loose.
I saw the OEM style filter tools at the auto parts store as well. I was tempted as they were only a few bucks. However, I purchased two HiFlo filters which this tool wouldn’t fit. I also know which ever one I picked would be that wrong size. This was my third trip looking for a tool to remove the blasted oil filter. I wasn’t exactly happy about it . A simple oil and filter change causing so much trouble.
I don’t have a vast amount of tools at my disposal since I moved from S. Florida.
Yes, I know the tab is only for removing the filter but good info. to share.
Anyway, I managed to get the oil and filter changed but it did come at a cost. I ended up busting my reconstructed knuckles on the concrete floor breaking the drain bolt loose. My Z has drawn first blood!
After I wiped the blood from the floor. I took her for a short easy spin around the block checking for leaks, all looks good. I called it a nite.

I did use OEM Kawasaki regular oil but did install an aftermarket magnetic drain plug. I plan to change the oil again around 1000 miles and see if there’s anything attracted to it.

Today it nice and cool around 60 degrees. I was out blasting the streets!

Thanks !
 

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I use a large pair of channel locks...always have. I bought a large pair for doing brake jobs to just press the caliper pistons back in(works like a charm, just make sure you have a rag over the fluid reservoir up top so it does not gyser out of there)


I also use those on oil filters where I can fit them in, usually at creative angles I can get a good enough bite to loosen it enough to do the rest by hand. I always hand tighten my filters.
Be very careful using channel locks to press in a caliper. I ruined two calipers once and had to pay for them. Since then I use an old brake pad against the piston and a cheap C clamp. Pliers will put uneven pressure on the piston and make them stick in the caliper bore.

The c clamp is a very easy and reliable method.

Would have saved me over two hundred dollars too.
 

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I went to my local auto parts store
last night and picked up a pair of those red handled filter pliers YardDog posted. They worked! It was still difficult to brake that filter loose.
I saw the OEM style filter tools at the auto parts store as well. I was tempted as they were only a few bucks. However, I purchased two HiFlo filters which this tool wouldn’t fit. I also know which ever one I picked would be that wrong size. !

That's the tool I have too and it works well with any filter so that's what I've always used. Yeah you end up crushing the filter in the process but who cares since you're just going to toss it anyway? On the HiFlo filters you can still use a socket wrench to tighten it as long as you don't overdo it. I usually install them by hand until I can't turn them anymore, and then I put a wrench on the nut at the end and turn it another 1/8-1/4 turn.
 

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That's the tool I have too and it works well with any filter so that's what I've always used. Yeah you end up crushing the filter in the process but who cares since you're just going to toss it anyway? On the HiFlo filters you can still use a socket wrench to tighten it as long as you don't overdo it. I usually install them by hand until I can't turn them anymore, and then I put a wrench on the nut at the end and turn it another 1/8-1/4 turn.
Completely up to you put personally I would not bother with the extra 1/8th - 1/4 turn with the tool. Esp a fit young fellow like yourself with strong hands Lol.
Only makes them harder to get off again and you run the risk of over tightening.
 

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Be very careful using channel locks to press in a caliper. I ruined two calipers once and had to pay for them. Since then I use an old brake pad against the piston and a cheap C clamp. Pliers will put uneven pressure on the piston and make them stick in the caliper bore.

The c clamp is a very easy and reliable method.

Would have saved me over two hundred dollars too.



Am I the only one who uses his fingers to push the pistons back in? Slow movement, never saw the need for a tool.
 
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