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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone deciding to run shell T4 deisel 15w40 oil in there kawi 400, or other diesel oil similar?? and how are the results? TY
 

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is this a recommended oil? no matter what oil, what results would you see until something bad had already happened?
 

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Just put in what Kawasaki recommends in the manual. Can't go wrong with that.
 
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:cool: Been running Rotella 15w40 from 750 miles and did first change at 300 miles with the oil I got from the dealer when I bought the bike 10w40,I have 2500 on her now ,I have run the Rotella 15w40 in all my other bikes for years and no problems, Always warm up the engine good before starting out in the morning and Always drain when hot when changing, enjoy the site and the bike and be safe,(y)
 

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:cool: Been running Rotella 15w40 from 750 miles and did first change at 300 miles with the oil I got from the dealer when I bought the bike 10w40,I have 2500 on her now ,I have run the Rotella 15w40 in all my other bikes for years and no problems, Always warm up the engine good before starting out in the morning and Always drain when hot when changing, enjoy the site and the bike and be safe,(y)
Yeah, myself, 'n a lotta high mileage FJR peeps run Rotella 'n never had a problem. Double (y) (y)
 

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I use Chevron Delo 400 Le 15W40 diesel oil. The first bike I used it in was a Ninja 650 that I put 115,000 miles on before selling it. It still didn't need oil added between 5,000 mile oil and filter changes. The second bike is a Honda CBR500R with 63,000 miles. The Ninja 400 that I owned for awhile before I gave it to my daughter got the same oil.

The advantage of diesel oil is that it doesn't have the friction modifiers that conventional oils have, so that there is less risk of clutch slippage, and it is cheaper than so-called "motorcycle oil".
 

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I use the synthetic Rotella T6 5W-40, and have been in my other bikes for a number of years. It meets all the specifications listed in the manual. It does tend to lose viscosity a little faster than other synthetics, but it also starts with a slightly higher viscosity index which helps mitigate that. (Note that any synthetic is better than any dino oil in this regard.)

I know that the T6 breaks down a bit faster than other synthetics, so I aim for 2,500 mile oil changes to play it safe. Since it only costs ~$20 a gallon, I don't mind doing changes a little more frequently.

Also, you can get a longer version of the oil filter to add a bit more oil capacity (in addition to extra filtering media) to the system. Oil filter reference info For comparison, my EX500 holds twice as much oil as the smaller Ninjas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I use Chevron Delo 400 Le 15W40 diesel oil. The first bike I used it in was a Ninja 650 that I put 115,000 miles on before selling it. It still didn't need oil added between 5,000 mile oil and filter changes. The second bike is a Honda CBR500R with 63,000 miles. The Ninja 400 that I owned for awhile before I gave it to my daughter got the same oil.

The advantage of diesel oil is that it doesn't have the friction modifiers that conventional oils have, so that there is less risk of clutch slippage, and it is cheaper than so-called "motorcycle oil".
Quick Note, I did not find MA/MA2 ratings on the Chevron or Valvoline Premium Blue. Why is this? I thought those MA/2 ratings were nessisary
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
is this a recommended oil? no matter what oil, what results would you see until something bad had already happened?
Nothing bad has happened, just wondering how everyones doing with it, and why others choose to spend more on Moto oil, per cost $$.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just put in what Kawasaki recommends in the manual. Can't go wrong with that.
Its just not cost effective; thats the reason. e.g. Honda wants you to run Gn4 Honda oil in all there bike, as their name branding, and GN4 Honda oil, was rated the worst viscosity of all oil branding. And why do you suppose this is? Because Honda wants you back in the shop with engine problems!! DONT FALL FOR THEIR BAIT, ITS A TRAP
 

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:cool:Run Rotella 15w40 oil (y)(y) and always warm the engine up real good before starting out in the am and when doing changes drain when hot, enjoy and be safe...
 

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Its just not cost effective; thats the reason. e.g. Honda wants you to run Gn4 Honda oil in all there bike, as their name branding, and GN4 Honda oil, was rated the worst viscosity of all oil branding. And why do you suppose this is? Because Honda wants you back in the shop with engine problems!! DONT FALL FOR THEIR BAIT, ITS A TRAP
I mean no disrespect here.. But I'm going to call Bull S*** on this theory. All vehicle manufacturers spend enormous amounts of money to hire engineers and develop products to enhance the performance and longevity of their motorcycles. I haven't looked at any oil viscosity comparisons, so you may well be right about that particular aspect of Honda's GN4 oil. But, Honda has one of the best reputations in the industry. They didn't get that reputation by intentionally causing problems to make additional work for their dealer's service departments.
 

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Its just not cost effective; thats the reason. e.g. Honda wants you to run Gn4 Honda oil in all there bike, as their name branding, and GN4 Honda oil, was rated the worst viscosity of all oil branding. And why do you suppose this is? Because Honda wants you back in the shop with engine problems!! DONT FALL FOR THEIR BAIT, ITS A TRAP
I respect your opinion but I don't agree with this. First, if it ruined the engines, Kawasaki would be on the hook for many of the repairs. Everything for the first year by default and many people do buy the extended warranty. These costs would all be incurred by Kawasaki. If the failure happens outside the warranty, Kawaski does not make money off these as they almost never own the actual repair shops. Also, if it were ever to come out that Kawasaki was recommending a product that damaged their engines, there would be massive lawsuits in addition to the damage to the brand name.

For now, I don't see any evidence why we can't trust the recommendation of the actual engineers who designed and tested the engines. You can buy "the fancy oil," but I don't see any overt reason to at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I respect your opinion but I don't agree with this. First, if it ruined the engines, Kawasaki would be on the hook for many of the repairs. Everything for the first year by default and many people do buy the extended warranty. These costs would all be incurred by Kawasaki. If the failure happens outside the warranty, Kawaski does not make money off these as they almost never own the actual repair shops. Also, if it were ever to come out that Kawasaki was recommending a product that damaged their engines, there would be massive lawsuits in addition to the damage to the brand name.

For now, I don't see any evidence why we can't trust the recommendation of the actual engineers who designed and tested the engines. You can buy "the fancy oil," but I don't see any overt reason to at this point.
Its not that Im buying the fancier OIl. Its simply the fact that im saving money, and burning less oil. E.g. My krt400 brand new from the factory burned 2 to 4oz of oil in the frst 1k miles, and Shell T4 had zero losses.
 

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Its not that Im buying the fancier OIl. Its simply the fact that im saving money, and burning less oil. E.g. My krt400 brand new from the factory burned 2 to 4oz of oil in the frst 1k miles, and Shell T4 had zero losses.
Interesting. I have over 8000 miles on my N400 and have never had to add oil after my standard oil changes. But even if I did, the extra 2 oz's of oil is not a significant amount of money. Not sure if there is any significant savings with going with another brand of oil.
 
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