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OEM snorkels? do we need them? my bike is track only with Hindle
full, Norton re-flash AND MWR filter. are they making any difference for me?
 

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Nope toss em, the snorkels that go into the airbox up front by the frame, or where the ABS pump is on ABS models......remove em'

I know Norton said to remove them because they are or can be restrictive, not sure how much but I could see them definetly being a choke point for getting air into the box, when I removed them for sure.....I think the airbox is not getting enough flow into it for starters, but there is a point where you hit the wall of its enough now and anything past that is just a waste.

But stock it seems the box is pretty choked up and restrictive, so I would toss em'

I will say, as you are probably familar with older bikes, ditching the airbox for some pods or just running the aluminum/plastic velocity stacks on the old carb bikes you can hear the air flow much louder, definetly gets louder without them but I knew that would happen from past experiences.

I know, its dirt getting by, but if its a race bike and you rebuild it 2-3 times a season should not matter much...I am talking the old carb bikes, when you run just velocity stacks and no pods, no filter, nothing, these snorkels serve no purpose in filtering the air or particulates (and yes I know the velocity stacks are different than these snorkels, but I am talking about the increase in noise for those that remember the older days of removing airboxs altogether)
 

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Nope toss em, the snorkels that go into the airbox up front by the frame, or where the ABS pump is on ABS models......remove em'

I know Norton said to remove them because they are or can be restrictive, not sure how much but I could see them definetly being a choke point for getting air into the box, when I removed them for sure.....I think the airbox is not getting enough flow into it for starters, but there is a point where you hit the wall of its enough now and anything past that is just a waste.

But stock it seems the box is pretty choked up and restrictive, so I would toss em'

I will say, as you are probably familar with older bikes, ditching the airbox for some pods or just running the aluminum/plastic velocity stacks on the old carb bikes you can hear the air flow much louder, definetly gets louder without them but I knew that would happen from past experiences.

I know, its dirt getting by, but if its a race bike and you rebuild it 2-3 times a season should not matter much...I am talking the old carb bikes, these snorkels serve no purpose in filtering the air or particulates
My thoughts on the snorkels...1- to help the manufacturer tune the bike for emissions 2- to help each cylinder to receive the exact same amount of air. (or maybe one needs a tiny bit more than the other because of temperature).

I am not sure if removing them completely does any harm. Interesting that Norton goes to the effort to design and manufacture a specific style of snorkel and to open up the box even more. I think there is a good thread here on it, I will have to search it later tonight.
 

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When I purchased and installed Norton's velocity stacks and tune, Jesse told me to at minimum remove the snorkels but I'd get the most if I cut the airbox. I also run with the Sprint p08 air filter.
 

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I was thinking of ditching the snorkels. This thread just reminded me. With no track days for awhile, I have time to experiment. I checked my after market air filter after the 1st season and it was practically spotless. I cleaned it anyway. Last season was 95% track use. The air filters on my gixxer’s were dirty after one season of use. It’s just a pain in the arse to have to remove the gas tank to clean the air filter, plugs, etc. I will wait until I have a few things to do under the tank.
2D40E0B3-BFA0-442D-8815-59D2539ACB7D.jpeg
 

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I was thinking of ditching the snorkels. This thread just reminded me. With no track days for awhile, I have time to experiment. I checked my after market air filter after the 1st season and it was practically spotless. I cleaned it anyway. Last season was 95% track use. The air filters on my gixxer’s were dirty after one season of use. It’s just a pain in the arse to have to remove the gas tank to clean the air filter, plugs, etc. I will wait until I have a few things to do under the tank. View attachment 12162
That's a great idea. I might cut the airbox open too, in preparation for getting new stacks from Norton. I need to wait on that until the virus is a bit more stable.
 

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do yourself a huge favor and ditch the oem veloicuty stacks and go with a set from Norton. they are pricy, but an honest 4hp?! folks spend 800 bucks on exhaust and gain what, 3 hp TOPS???? usally about 1-2hp. the stacks are well worth the cost by far. barely loses any hp down low, and gains hp on high end of rpms like a mofo!!
 

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do yourself a huge favor and ditch the oem veloicuty stacks and go with a set from Norton. they are pricy, but an honest 4hp?! folks spend 800 bucks on exhaust and gain what, 3 hp TOPS???? usally about 1-2hp. the stacks are well worth the cost by far. barely loses any hp down low, and gains hp on high end of rpms like a mofo!!
I agree. And none of that makes a difference if your ECU is factory tuned.
 

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I wanta do the Norton v stacks, 'n drill some holes in the bottom of the air box, but gotta wait to recover from the ECU flash, full Acro, K&N, block off plate financial drain. I'd be nice to have a little more on top when pass'in cars 'n such. (y) I did rip out the intake snorkels whilst I was in there, so that's a start. :p
 

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Just curious. Will your flashed ECU recognize and adjust to the increased air flow after your future mods to the air box?
Great question. With the PC V, (And other such devices.) you have to load a map for the variables/state of tune, but the way I understand the ECU flash is that it "widens" the parameters, so that your engine adjusts to a wider range of options? Didn't have to tell the thing I have full Acro, K&N, storkels removed, block off plate... etc it just knows.
Butt, I'm just a simple hill billie, not sure how all this works? My bike does seem to run properly, like the ECU know all the stuff I've done.
Also, I wonder 'bout the lambda sensor thing; I have a Power Commander FC on my FJR, and they recommended unplugging it, (So I did.) but wut if I left it plugged in? Seems it would b better if the ECU knew the exhaust gas mixture?
 

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I hope Jesse does not mind me sharing an email response from him. I asked him his thoughts on re tuning/re flashing for just doing velocity stacks.

" you definitely need to re-tune it for the velocity stacks. Changing the stacks will make your current tune useless. It may still start and seem to run okay, but fueling will be way off in various places. We have a flash with tuning that is done specifically for the Velocity stacks and Akra full system so it will be spot in with your bike and you can zero out the power commander if you have us flash it, plus you'll get the host of other improvements that you noticed with your wife's bike previously.

Jesse Norton
Customer Service
Norton Motorsports
www.Norton-Motorsports.com"

So, I have a great dyno tune right now and I know that messing with the V-stacks and airbox will make my tune...un tuned. I think when this virus thing stops, I will swap out to his ECU and throw his stacks in. It is just the right thing to do.
 

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I’m going to do vstacks, airbox, and TB’s at the same time, trying to decide what to do with my current fueling setup (PCV and the DJ quickshifter). Not sure if I should keep the DJ stuff or go with a standalone quickshifter and Bazzaz/aRacer ECU/stock ECU flash. Depends on what’s going to be available, as far as getting proper fueling.
 
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