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Is that the SBK tail and not the GP tail?
Yes, it has the original SPK tail section. I had already purchased two full kits before the GP bodywork was available and after verifying through Jesse that the upper would fit the original belly and mids I just purchased the upper and the adapters. I am glad I bought the adapters, I would have spent a long time getting the spacing correct on my own. If you choose to use the stock fairing bracket you will have to fabricate a gauge bracket to relocate the gauges back and up slightly to allow additional space for your lowered clip-on locations. I also welded my steering stops to maximize my distance, still lost a bunch though, don't need it on the track but find the limits while moving in and out of the pits and in the garage.
If you look closely you will see where I added two additional attachment points, one to each side where the upper overlaps the stock plastic tank shroud. I didn't like how loose that area was so I fabricated an aluminum tab that I attached to the tank where the rubber grommet was for the shroud that we have to cut. This area is tight now and does not move or vibrate at speed.
The hardware kit is a bit pricey but I understand why, there is a lot of R&D that goes into it and their craftsmanship is top notch. I have been in this game for a very long time and choose to do a lot of it myself because for one I can, I enjoy doing it and it saves me a bunch of money to spend on stuff I can't do or don't want too. ;)
 

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I moved reg/rect by drilling and tapping the vertical small frame tube and used red thread locker to secure. All I purchased from Norton was the upper and the fairing stay adapters.
Hey I got the same fairing kit from Norton how hard was to fit the tail in, did you have to cut anything from the frame ? Thanks
 

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I have installed both. The stock looking tail requires several tabs to be removed and the GP only needs two removed. Aligning the back two can be difficult, however the back two tabs/mounts are easy to bend to fit. I do recommend using metal collard spacers for the mounting points. I had a bunch leftover from the original bodywork that I used.
 

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Hey I got the same fairing kit from Norton how hard was to fit the tail in, did you have to cut anything from the frame ? Thanks
I had to trim the rear tabs and z bend them to get them to align to the holes. It wasn't very difficult. Just touch up with paint when done.

There are two side rail stock mounts that need to be neatly removed and painted.

Grab some pj1 frame black paint.
 

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The reg/rect is a standard move, the bracket comes in the hardware kit.

The tail doesn't require as much mod as some of the others, but I had to make a Z bend out of the two wings.
Do you have any pic of how you located the voltage regulator
 

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Do you have any pic of how you located the voltage regulator
I thought I did on my phone, must have deleted. I can snap a picture tonight. It's the relocation kit sold by Norton-motorsports.com

 

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Does anyone have any tips for installing the fairings? Are there marks where to drill holes?
I am just trying to understand the actual process of putting the fairings on, having them stay in place while I mark them where I need to drill holes.

Any tips would be appreciated. I already grounded off the back tab. I was waiting to grind off the other attachment points on the tail until I got my fairings and could look at it.
 
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Does anyone have any tips for installing the fairings? Are there marks where to drill holes?
I am just trying to understand the actual process of putting the fairings on, having them stay in place while I mark them where I need to drill holes.

Any tips would be appreciated. I already grounded off the back tab. I was waiting to grind off the other attachment points on the tail until I got my fairings and could look at it.

All holes are marked in the bodywork. It's pretty straight forward. However, you always want to mount the upper and lower together off the bike with any bodywork to ensure they sit together correctly. There's a pretty thorough How-To article on installing bodywork here. It's for bodywork on an R3, but the process and techniques still apply for any bodywork on any bike really.
 

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I used rivet style dzus fasteners on all three sets I've assembled. It doesn't matter which end you start with the upper or the belly pan. The mids will have all of the female sides of the dzus fasteners attached to it. What I found works best is to fit each piece before drilling, there are times when there is some light dremel work required to have each piece fit well to each other. There should be obvious indentions in the glass that indicates where the attachment points are. I drill out the outside one first just large enough to get a Sharpie in it to mark the piece that is being assembled. This entire task is much easier if you have a helper but can be done solo. Now you can drill out the outer piece to size and can slightly oversize the other side where you will be attaching the dzus fastener (female). After you verify that the holes line up you can drill out for the rivets and attach the female side to the mid section.

I did forget to mention that this is to be done off of the bike.

Wash, rinse and repeat for the other side, leave the pieces assembled and fit the the last piece. (This is where it gets difficult by yourself because it it bulky and flimsy). I did find that the GP upper fitment to the mids is not as good as the original upper. I had to clean up some edges to get the alignment correct, take your time and use a sanding drum not a cutter when removing material.

I also found that nearly all of the female locking tabs had to be bent inward (closer to the bodywork) to get the proper engagement without struggling every time with reassembly.

Another note, the areas where bolts go through always get nylon/plastic washer to protect the glass. The belly bolts get collard spacers fitted as well as the tail section tank and rear mounting points. These tend to be high stress areas that will break out the fiberglass if just bolted in place even with nylon washer.

If this doesn't make sense or is not clear enough hit me up on a PM.
 

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I had to do quite a bit of dremel work in some contact areas on mine because they didn't overlap right, or the total thickness was too much and the Dzus fastener didn't reach. In fact most of the Dzus fasteners were a struggle at first because they were too short for the thickness of the bodywork. On half of mine I had to take the nylon washers off so they could reach. Bending the Dzus receivers also helps as mentioned above. Careful with the tail. It does require a bit of force to put on but you don't want to force it too much because it doesn't flex a whole lot. If I was to go through this process again, I would probably just get the longer Dzus fasteners which would make the belly pan and mids go on much easier without any dremeling.
 

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All holes are marked in the bodywork. It's pretty straight forward. However, you always want to mount the upper and lower together off the bike with any bodywork to ensure they sit together correctly. There's a pretty thorough How-To article on installing bodywork here. It's for bodywork on an R3, but the process and techniques still apply for any bodywork on any bike really.
All holes are marked in the bodywork. It's pretty straight forward. However, you always want to mount the upper and lower together off the bike with any bodywork to ensure they sit together correctly. There's a pretty thorough How-To article on installing bodywork here. It's for bodywork on an R3, but the process and techniques still apply for any bodywork on any bike really.
Thanks Jesse. I looked through it and yes it is very thorough. I am going to pick up some tools for the install. This will be my first race fairing install. So fingers crossed it goes well.:geek:
 

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I had to do quite a bit of dremel work in some contact areas on mine because they didn't overlap right, or the total thickness was too much and the Dzus fastener didn't reach. In fact most of the Dzus fasteners were a struggle at first because they were too short for the thickness of the bodywork. On half of mine I had to take the nylon washers off so they could reach. Bending the Dzus receivers also helps as mentioned above. Careful with the tail. It does require a bit of force to put on but you don't want to force it too much because it doesn't flex a whole lot. If I was to go through this process again, I would probably just get the longer Dzus fasteners which would make the belly pan and mids go on much easier without any dremeling.
Thanks for the info. Is the Dzus fastener the actual part with the ring that you put in and turn? Or the rivet? You are saying that because of the thickness of the bodywork, the quick turn fastener (Dzus Fastener) was not quite long enough to go through and get a good bite to secure the belly pan? Where could you get longer ones?
 

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I used rivet style dzus fasteners on all three sets I've assembled. It doesn't matter which end you start with the upper or the belly pan. The mids will have all of the female sides of the dzus fasteners attached to it. What I found works best is to fit each piece before drilling, there are times when there is some light dremel work required to have each piece fit well to each other. There should be obvious indentions in the glass that indicates where the attachment points are. I drill out the outside one first just large enough to get a Sharpie in it to mark the piece that is being assembled. This entire task is much easier if you have a helper but can be done solo. Now you can drill out the outer piece to size and can slightly oversize the other side where you will be attaching the dzus fastener (female). After you verify that the holes line up you can drill out for the rivets and attach the female side to the mid section.

I did forget to mention that this is to be done off of the bike.

Wash, rinse and repeat for the other side, leave the pieces assembled and fit the the last piece. (This is where it gets difficult by yourself because it it bulky and flimsy). I did find that the GP upper fitment to the mids is not as good as the original upper. I had to clean up some edges to get the alignment correct, take your time and use a sanding drum not a cutter when removing material.

I also found that nearly all of the female locking tabs had to be bent inward (closer to the bodywork) to get the proper engagement without struggling every time with reassembly.

Another note, the areas where bolts go through always get nylon/plastic washer to protect the glass. The belly bolts get collard spacers fitted as well as the tail section tank and rear mounting points. These tend to be high stress areas that will break out the fiberglass if just bolted in place even with nylon washer.

If this doesn't make sense or is not clear enough hit me up on a PM.

That all makes sense. I think it will also come together even more once I have the fairings and am actually doing the drilling/install. I am going to really try and take my time. Maybe I can get my wife to come down to the garage to help hold pieces when needed. :sneaky:

My old CBR 600 track bike was built by my buddy. I ended up buying the bike from him because his wife did not want him doing track days anymore. So I bought that bike with most the mods already done (including track fairings). He installed the fairings and I think did a decent job. So I hope if he could do it, I can do it. I am pretty proud of this bike. It is the most work I have done to any of my motorcycles. (never taken an ECU out, never installed a clutch... though I tried on my pitbike but did not have all the right tools). I definitely have a sense of accomplishment so far with the build. I also like knowing how everything works and how it was installed. Should make maintaining particular parts easier.

The forum has been very helpful for the build, as well as the youtube videos Sportbike Track gear 400 build series. I looked through Jesse's clutch install write up as well. That was quite helpful for my install. It was very detailed.
 

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You are saying that because of the thickness of the bodywork, the quick turn fastener (Dzus Fastener) was not quite long enough to go through and get a good bite to secure the belly pan? Where could you get longer ones?
Yes to the first question. So I had to use a dremel to make the bodywork thinner in the overlap area (mostly at the edges).

You can get all sorts of those fasteners from Kurveygirl.com
 

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I replaced one of the dzus at the middle front fairing mating point with a rivet on nut plate and used a bolt to secure that section. There are other places on the bodywork that use bolts, so I didnt mind.
 
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