My takeaway from all of this? The speedo is very optimistic...and seemingly so is the tach.

I measured both mine at 5% optimistic on N400.

You can use a site like gearingcommander.com to play with ratios, or you can just take the ratios from the owner's manual and do the math yourself...

primary ratio = 2.029
6th gear = 1.037
final ratio = 3.071
rear tire = 150/60x17

At 11,000 rpm, theoretically you get:

11000 rpm/2.029/1.037/3.071 * pi * (17in + 150mm*.6*2) ? mph
> (((11000 rpm_as_frequency / 2.029) / 1.037) / 3.071) * pi * ((17 inch) + (150 milli~meter * .6 * 2)) ? mph
= 121.987 mph

That's just rpm times tire circumference, where the circumference is pi times the rim diameter plus twice the tire height (which is equal to tire width times profile ratio).

(You can click the links above and play with the calculator -- it is all live.)

The limitations of this kind of math are:

• there is tire wear affecting the static height of the tire by up to 10mm reduction (and hence the circumference by pi times that),
• there is tire deformation from the static height calculated above (tire sag and centrifugal force tend to balance out), and
• and most importantly, there is tire slip (at skid) of 5% to 15% depending on the rubber compound and road surface.

Tire slip always makes the tire speed be greater than the road speed (or less when you are braking) -- tires are always slipping except when the vehicle is coasting in a straight line (with no force transmitted to the ground)...

 

I measured both mine at 5% optimistic on N400.

You can use a site like gearingcommander.com to play with ratios, or you can just take the ratios from the owner's manual and do the math yourself...

primary ratio = 2.029
6th gear = 1.037
final ratio = 3.071
rear tire = 150/60x17

At 11,000 rpm, theoretically you get:

11000 rpm/2.029/1.037/3.071 * pi * (17in + 150mm*.6*2) ? mph
> (((11000 rpm_as_frequency / 2.029) / 1.037) / 3.071) * pi * ((17 inch) + (150 milli~meter * .6 * 2)) ? mph
= 121.987 mph

That's just rpm times tire circumference, where the circumference is pi times the rim diameter plus twice the tire height (which is equal to tire width times profile ratio).

(You can click the links above and play with the calculator -- it is all live.)

The limitations of this kind of math are:

• there is tire wear affecting the static height of the tire by up to 10mm reduction (and hence the circumference by pi times that),
• there is tire deformation from the static height calculated above (tire sag and centrifugal force tend to balance out), and
• and most importantly, there is tire slip (at skid) of 5% to 15% depending on the rubber compound and road surface.

Tire slip always makes the tire speed be greater than the road speed (or less when you are braking) -- tires are always slipping except when the vehicle is coasting in a straight line (with no force transmitted to the ground)...

I generally use Gearing Commander. I also generally measured the tire to get an accurate circumference, which I have not done yet. But it should be the same as the 400 I had (same tires, very low miles). Slip is minimal on dry pavement...about 3% is what I calculate when racing LSR. 15% would be ridiculous, from my experience. In the case of losing tire height due to loading, that would shorten overall gearing...which would make things even more odd, numbers-wise. I am generally pretty meticulous about this, but more casual...right now. With all of the time I spent with my 400, and the 500 having the same internal ratios (but +2 teeth on the rear sprocket), I figure I have a general sense of what to expect. I've actually done these gearing calcs hundreds of times when racing at the track, on many different makes and models.

Interestingly, the Gearing Commander calc is showing 111.5 mph gearing vs the 122 you have shown above. I am not sure what is up with that? Perhaps I am overlooking something.

But I think you can tell from the tach reading, the gps/speedo readings, and the Gearing Commander calcs, something is not quite adding up. I will figure it out. I also want to get it on the dyno and see just how far off that tachometer is. We had our 400's on the dyno, and they both measured 46 HP SAE. We didn't pick up the tach signal, though, so nothing to compare there. Although we do still have a 400, so maybe some back-to-back testing in the future.

 

You can get your tach error right from the alternator output -- see: (1) Is 13200 displayed RPM real? is 11800 real max RPM? | Ninja 400 Riders Forum

I think I mis-remembered -- my tach was 3% high, not 5% -- my speedo is 5% high.

 

You can get your tach error right from the alternator output -- see: (1) Is 13200 displayed RPM real? is 11800 real max RPM? | Ninja 400 Riders Forum

I think I mis-remembered -- my tach was 3% high, not 5% -- my speedo is 5% high.

I'm looking for something where the dyno can pick up rpm. On my other bikes the operator uses an inductive clamp on a coil wire at the ecu. But I'm not sure where to pick it up easily on this 500, since you can't just pop the seat to access the ecu wiring.

 

I measured both mine at 5% optimistic on N400.

You can use a site like gearingcommander.com to play with ratios, or you can just take the ratios from the owner's manual and do the math yourself...

primary ratio = 2.029
6th gear = 1.037
final ratio = 3.071
rear tire = 150/60x17

At 11,000 rpm, theoretically you get:

11000 rpm/2.029/1.037/3.071 * pi * (17in + 150mm*.6*2) ? mph
> (((11000 rpm_as_frequency / 2.029) / 1.037) / 3.071) * pi * ((17 inch) + (150 milli~meter * .6 * 2)) ? mph
= 121.987 mph

That's just rpm times tire circumference, where the circumference is pi times the rim diameter plus twice the tire height (which is equal to tire width times profile ratio).

(You can click the links above and play with the calculator -- it is all live.)

The limitations of this kind of math are:

• there is tire wear affecting the static height of the tire by up to 10mm reduction (and hence the circumference by pi times that),
• there is tire deformation from the static height calculated above (tire sag and centrifugal force tend to balance out), and
• and most importantly, there is tire slip (at skid) of 5% to 15% depending on the rubber compound and road surface.

Tire slip always makes the tire speed be greater than the road speed (or less when you are braking) -- tires are always slipping except when the vehicle is coasting in a straight line (with no force transmitted to the ground)...

You can get your tach error right from the alternator output -- see: (1) Is 13200 displayed RPM real? is 11800 real max RPM? | Ninja 400 Riders Forum

I think I mis-remembered -- my tach was 3% high, not 5% -- my speedo is 5% high.

Any idea of why Gearing Commander might be showing 111.5 as opposed to your 122 mph calc?

EDIT: So when I was calculating before, I was using the Ninja 400 calc and just adding two teeth to the rear sprocket, and subtracting 1000 rpm. That does not return the same result as the 2024 Ninja 500 calc they now have. I'm not sure what is going on there, but the Ninja 500 calc (which may have recently been added), matches up to your numbers.

I figured it out...the difference. The primary ratio is different from the 400. I looked my numbers up early, when my 500 was on order, from a website/press release sort of article, I recall. And they were listed as the same spec. Problem solved! Thanks again!

 

I pulled the numbers from the 500 owner's manual -- hopefully they are right (it's a lot harder to count transmission teeth on the N400 than on the 6R with the cassette!).

 

I did get the bike on the dyno for a few quick pulls, today. I didn't bother with the rpm signal right now...neither did I on either of the 400's. It made about what I expected. I figured near 50 hp. A little more than the 400's did, by a few. But obviously the bike's major gains are not at the peak. If I make any significant changes, I will measure things a little differently. I have had hundreds of dyno pulls on our racing-oriented machines. If I can find the run files for our 400's, I will overlay them to the 500. It is the same dyno, although not the same day.

I try to keep it to mostly fun with these little bikes. And it was fun to ride the bike over and meet up with a local racer/tuner I haven't dealt with in some years.

Showing 290 or so miles on the clock, now.

 

Could the tire expansion at that speed (which would increase circumference due to centrifugal force) be enough to account for it? At that speed it wouldn't take much.

 

I mentioned above, the issue was that I was not plugging the correct primary ratio into the equation (it was changed from N400 to 500). Gearing Commander has a calc for the 2024 500, now.

 

Picked up few good deals for the 500, from eBay. Since I want to try out taller gearing, I found this hub and sprocket from a 400. It has the stock 41T on it, vs the 43T of the 500. The hub is the same part #. Best of all? Only $32 shipped! Having a separate hub to swap in for gearing tests makes things a lot easier.

The bike came with the tall windscreen. I am not really fond of those. I tried one on the 400, and didn't care for it. I found a new take-off 400 screen on eBay, for $45 shipped. Yes, it is a little different at the front, but it should do me for a while.

And my final eBay score was a set of 3D printed mirror block-offs, for those rare occasions they will be useful (testing top speed). They were $15. We'll see how they are.

I also picked up a couple of items from Amazon. Inexpensive stuff. I'm not trying to break the bank, and honestly it is nice that there is a wealth of oem spare parts out there that will fit this bike. Also having a good selection of inexpensive aftermarket parts is a welcome change from the $2k exhausts and $4-5k carbon wheels I have bought in the past. Those parts are beautiful, but I just can't afford them anymore.

 

So, while I'm waiting on these few parts, I've been thinking about exhausts. On Racheal's 400, I just put a cheap muffler on it. I don't think you can beat the sound and looks for $73, tbh. She is pretty happy with it. She also has a 300 that has a Spark/Brock's full system. The 400 sounds similar, just deeper in tone.

You can also see a couple of other mods, like the fender delete and the tank grips. Those grips are way better than what comes on the 500, and they were not that pricey.

Anyway, I am trying to decide whether to go with the full pipe on mine (Chinese). The pipe seems pretty decent, as a copy of the Akrapovic. But I am looking at costs. I guess I would need an ECU flash to go with it. I am pretty sure these mail-in flashes are going to put you in the ballpark, but not exact on your AF. Too many pipe vendors for one flash to fit all. At the track I normally use a power commander because I can adjust the mapping easily and for different fuels. But both a flash and a Power Commander puts the price way up there.

I guess I have to think about it more. With just the slip-on, for under $100 you get the sound and the weight reduction. For about $600 or so, you get that plus around 5 hp more. I just wonder how different the bike feels with it not falling off as much on top? I know it would help with my top speed goals, but I am not planning to topping it out daily.

The third option I am considering it getting the full setup, and just mounting up the slip-on for now. I think it saves a little to get them both at the same time (muffler and pipe). It looks like the muffler will just fit as a slip-on without issue, until if/when I decide to go with the full setup. Then all I have to do is wade through the 175 eBay vendors offering the exhausts.

 

So, while I'm waiting on these few parts, I've been thinking about exhausts. On Racheal's 400, I just put a cheap muffler on it. I don't think you can beat the sound and looks for $73, tbh. She is pretty happy with it. She also has a 300 that has a Spark/Brock's full system. The 400 sounds similar, just deeper in tone.

Looks like the exhaust is an akropovich knock-off which is fine for me. Mostly looking at the extra space my heel won't be hitting it like it does on the stock one (size 12 clod-hoppers and on longer rides I end up with the ball of my foot on the peg). Is it a lot louder than the OEM unit or is it just a bit deeper? I'm looking to keep it closer to stock and hold onto the OEM. No plans for reflash, power commander, etc. The $75 would be a fine experiment even if it doesn't do what I'm looking for. I could swap that back and forth based on mood. Do you have a link for it perchance?

Oh, and just for giggles, if you nudged it up to 116mph you can smile and when people asked how fast you went today you can answer Mach 0.15.

 

Ok, nothing earth-shattering in this post. But I did pick up a decent set of 300 "clone" mirrors from Amazon. The most notable feature for me is that they fold inward. I need this feature in our garage. I have a set here that does not fold (left over from my 400). Obviously they look a lot better than the stockers. Yes, you might have to move your elbows for the best view, but that is fairly common on sport motorcycles, anyway. At 6', the view is pretty darn good for me. I looked at those "Rizoma" clones, but they didn't seem very functional.

Anyway, here they are:

They were $38. Very good quality. They came with nuts, bolts, and insulating pads (which I did not use any of that).

Amazon.com: KEMIMOTO Compatible with Ninja 300 Mirrors Motorcycle Rear View Mirror Compatible with Ninja 250 ZX 6R 636 300R EX300 ABS 2011-2018 / Ninja 400 2018-2023 : Automotive

Amazon.com: KEMIMOTO Compatible with Ninja 300 Mirrors Motorcycle Rear View Mirror Compatible with Ninja 250 ZX 6R 636 300R EX300 ABS 2011-2018 / Ninja 400 2018-2023 : Automotive

www.amazon.com

My main reason for posting this is that there are some versions that claim to fold, but apparently don't. I can verify this is a solid set. I'm sure there are some who are still new to this mod, as well.

 

Nice and they do look better that the longer mirrors that came in the bike.

I did the same with replacing the stock mirrors and going with the 300 mirrors.
They work great.
The mirrors in my 4RR are about the same length as the 300 mirrors.

 

Ok, I got my oem 400 "short" windscreen. It was advertised a new take-off. How new is it? Never been on a bike new.

For $45 with shipping and tax it can't be beat, imo.

Here is the comparison between the two windscreens:

You can see the huge difference in size. The 500 screen also has Decepticon-style "fangs" on it.

Here are the 3D-printed mirror block-offs. Very slick and cheap at under $16 shipped. Let me say right off, these are not a good choice for the street. Situational awareness is very important when riding on public roads. I will be putting the 300 mirrors back on for day-today use.

Front view, before and after (300 mirrors mounted, so they are smaller than what comes with the bike).

As for the "fangs", this is how that area looks now. I think it looks pretty good.

I also weighed the mirrors. Stock mirrors are 11.5 oz each, the 300 version about 9.5 oz each, and the block-offs .2 oz for the pair. When I switch back the the mirrors, I might weigh the windscreens. They feel quite different in weight.

Where I got the 400 windscreen (seem to be a number of these new ones available cheap right now):

KAWASAKI 39154-0028 WINDSHIELD for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for KAWASAKI 39154-0028 WINDSHIELD at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Where I got the block-offs:

Mirror Delete Blank Block Off Plate for Kawasaki Ninja 300 250 400 125 ZX6R 636 | eBay

Block Off Plate Works with Kawasaki Ninja 300, 250, 400, 125 & ZX6R 636 Mirror Delete Block Off Plate These are used if you are removing the side mirrors for track day to secure your upper fairing. Easy to install very durable. Uses existing mounting hardware (does not come with additioal bolts)...

www.ebay.com

Anyway, I'm happy with these inexpensive changes. I'll rarely use the block-offs, but they will look great when I do.

 

So, completing these windscreen thoughts...

One potential area of concern with the 400 windscreen is at the very tip where it meets the fairing.

Seems like a potential area to rub a spot in the paint, with vibration. I imagine there is something clear/adhesive for that spot. Maybe like trimming a piece off of a phone screen protector or something? I just noticed it, so not sure yet.

Oh, and the 400 windscreen is about 5 oz. lighter than the tall one that came on my 500. 13 oz. vs 1 lb. 1.8 oz. I was curious.

 

Regarding the point where the windshield may rub, 3M sells clear protection tape for car door edges. It's at most auto shops. Perhaps that would do.

 

I never noticed any potential rubbing issue when I installed the N400 double bubble windscreen on my N500, but I just took a look at my bike out of curiosity. It’s close, but doesn’t quite touch. No rubbing or any issues so far. I have 4 track days on the N500 using the DB windscreen (my GF has the exact same setup on her N500 fwiw). What is probably helping me is that the double bubble comes with a rubber gasket(s) for the mounting bolts, which slightly pushes the screen away from the bike. So thin rubber gaskets around the mounting locations might also be the trick to avoid rubbing.

 

So the gaskets are under the screen? Interesting. I guess with any small clearance I was thinking the vibes of the twin might be an issue at some rpm. I don't know. I'll either space it out, or more likely put a small clear protector under it. I've seen and I think had some twins where you could see the shaking of the screens clearly. I want to say the EX500 we had was like that. These don't seem to strum as much as that one, if I recall. Been a long time since that one!

 

Yes, gaskets are under the screen. I have found that the windscreen screws need to be retightened after each track day. Just a quarter to half turn, but they do vibrate loose when the bike is consistently at high RPM.

 

So, decided to try to install the 400 fender delete that I got. This particular model worked great on Racheal's 400, so I ordered one. Since then, one of the board members mentioned having trouble with a different model and fitting the turn signal stalks of the 500.

I'll keep it brief and say no problem fitting the signals on this particular one. They were the usual pain, but I expected that.

I am giving the link to this part, but with fair warning. This particular one was machined a little off. So I had to space it up off the undertail with some washers (basically, it is slightly offset and wouldn't drop into the groove in the undertail). As I said, the first one we got was perfect. This one was a bit of a pain, and imperfect. But for $33, I can accept it. It isn't worth the time to correct a flaw that only myself and the internet know exists.

Amazon.com

 

Trying to decide between these two batteries. The Antigravity is a lot lighter, and more expensive. But the Kemimoto has higher cranking specs, and still cuts the weight of the stocker in half. It is also $45 cheaper. I am not sure which way to go. Antigravity has a great reputation in the circles I've travelled (in fact, I currently have a 1534cc project bike with a 24v start setup using two of the 360CA Antigravity). Kemimoto's reputation, I am not sure?

I'm sure either will do the job. The Amazon reviews for both are comparable, I'd say. Tough call, for me.

 

Another small change today. I ordered a slip-on, and I went ahead and cleaned up the rear of the bike more.

First I deleted the helmet lock and left passenger peg bracket. That saved nearly 1.5 lbs by my trusty kitchen scale.

Then I installed this exhaust hanger, which cost $28 and change, shipped. It is made of steel, and heavy. Still saves about half a pound.

This was an amazingly tool-intensive affair, considering the small number of fasteners. But the new and old parts used different sizes.

I had to raid my parts bin for a few items, but the main one was a nut, bolt, and washers to hold the brake reservoir. I also used a metal bushing instead of the rubber/metal stuff that came stock, in order to make up the space between the factory muffler and the hanger. Again, no big deal for $27 +SH and tax, imo. And let me mention again, this thing is steel and sturdy. Yeah, it could be a lot lighter...but it could also cost a lot more, too. Here is the link:

USA For KAWASAKI Ninja400 2018 2019 2020 Exhaust Hanger Muffler Support Bracket | eBay

Exhaust Hanger is a high-quality designed for KAWASAKI Ninja400. For KAWASAKI Ninja 400 2018-2020 Exhaust Hanger Muffler Bracket Motorcycle. 1 x Exhaust Hanger. Applicable Range.

www.ebay.com

The exhaust is supposed to arrive early next week, so we will see what surprises are in store there. I'm trying not to spend too much and so far the items have been of acceptable quality.

So far I have done the following:

Replace mirrors with N300 mirrors
Install mirror block-offs (look nice, will rarely use)
Remove front reflectors
Install RAM mount for GoPro
Install small bar ends (more on that soon)
Remove passenger peg hanger and helmet lock
Remove oem muffler hanger and install new
Install N400 windscreen
Install tidy tail

I have the slip-on coming, and a few more parts in the pipeline. Also due for an oil change soon, and maybe I will test out that 400 gearing. The bike used a little oil in the first 400 miles, but still well within the sight glass. I also cleaned and lubed the chain. 421 miles on the clock, so far.

 

So, after 421 miles I am averaging 54 mpg. That is with a mix of riding, and not babying the bike. I have topped it out, and had it on the dyno as well. That seems like great mpg, all things considered.

Speaking of gauges, I am having a tough time getting used to this sloped digital tach. I really like the good old-fashioned, round, analog stuff. My H2 had kind of a combo (round, but digital sweep), and I wasn't thrilled with it it, but liked it better than this style. I guess I will get used to it, but the tach just doesn't do it for me.

 

Better mileage than a Prius even while wringing it out and having 5,000x more fun? That's a bargain. Not to mention you aren't in a Prius. I'm with you on the tach thing. As much as I'd like the 500 SE in red/black (gorgeous bike regardless of $$$ or CC's) I prefer the round normal type on my '21.
It's funny to think I'll be happy to add the 500's when I find that 2-3 year old one that someone put 250-500 miles on and parked at half the price of a new one like I did with this one. Even then I wouldn't be selling the 400 to get there. They have so much in common but from what I gather they feel different when riding. Keep the '21 for the sport/touring and the 500 for playing on the mountain roads for day runs? Hmm. Yeah, I could do that! Meanwhile I'm having fun watching you tweak yours and learning some of what works well. Thanks! Keep it up!

 

Better mileage than a Prius even while wringing it out and having 5,000x more fun? That's a bargain. Not to mention you aren't in a Prius. I'm with you on the tach thing. As much as I'd like the 500 SE in red/black (gorgeous bike regardless of $$$ or CC's) I prefer the round normal type on my '21.
It's funny to think I'll be happy to add the 500's when I find that 2-3 year old one that someone put 250-500 miles on and parked at half the price of a new one like I did with this one. Even then I wouldn't be selling the 400 to get there. They have so much in common but from what I gather they feel different when riding. Keep the '21 for the sport/touring and the 500 for playing on the mountain roads for day runs? Hmm. Yeah, I could do that! Meanwhile I'm having fun watching you tweak yours and learning some of what works well. Thanks! Keep it up!

Yeah, sometimes it is just a particular "thing" about a different bike. She has a 300 and 400, and I have the 500. In the past I also had a 300 and 400 at the same time. I really like those 300's...there is just something about them. So I can see keeping a 400 and 500, for sure.

 

I got some short levers in the mail today. They were $30 and change, shipped. I have a set of Pazzo's somewhere, I believe. Pazzo's are now listing at $199!

Anyhow, pretty simple install. And I really like these. My Pazzo's were black with a silver adjuster, but I figured I'd try something different. I also installed the small Puig bar ends off of my old 400. That is another topic, entirely. The small bar ends look great...but buzz a lot, as expected. So they might be finding their way off of the bike, soon. The stock 500 bar ends already weigh nearly 2x what the 400 comes with.

These levers are of good quality. Are they as good as the Pazzos? Probably not, but without a pair in my hands all I can say is that for $29+SH, these are pretty darn good.

Amazon.com

As for the functionality, well I have large hands. But I do like the lever feel better on the clutch. I consider them mostly an aesthetic mod (for my purposes), though. And they accomplish that goal nicely, imo. I am very happy with them, especially for the cost!

 

I just got these and installed them on my '21 400 and frankly they are a nice improvement. I went black levers with the red adjuster which matches the bike. When I first opened the box I thought for a moment they felt like plastic but they are just that light. Three long rides and they are a much welcome improvement over stock. The standard clutch is so light that you can one-finger it with these and the front brakes are perfect with 2 fingers. I do have the Barnett clutch spring upgrade sitting in the box with the oil, filter, crush washer and such. Guess what tomorrows project is?

 

These guys offer some sweet power upgrades for the ninja 500
Dano's Performance

 

OOPs

http://www.danosperformance.com/Ninja%20500%20Superbike%20Package.htm

 

I could see a 70 hp one of these really flying on the track. I think one or more of the small EX motors before (250/300/500) might have had problems with breaking the cranks when you really upped the power. Not sure what the max a 400/500 can take is, before reliability is a major issue. If it can take 70 hp and live, that is pretty impressive when you consider the low entry fee on the bike. It isn't like this thing was engineered like an H2R.