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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys,
I finally go tired of not knowing what the real water temps & oil temps are on my 2021 Ninja 400. My engine runs cooler than most with my 2nd reflash, but still, no one seems to really know what the gauge hash marks mean. So I made a drain plug probe, & a thermostat housing probe. I did not shoot a photo of the drain plug, but here's a shot of the housing that I just finished tonight. It has a chromate finish to stop any corrosion. The probe is a standard SAE thermocouple that goes to a digital reader. I can measure both temps at the same time. What's the reason for all of this, well, when I was heavily involved in Honda Grom speed parts, I probed the oil temps, only to fine that the Honda engine's oil never got over 185 degrees. So it would make oil, water would condense in the oil pan, because it would never boil out. So, more data.
Brian

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2018 Kawasaki Ninja 400
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Well thats unique to say the least. There's cheaper options for sure, like a radiator cap with thermometer. I have one on both my Minimoto and R3. The 400 has the Norton Racing cap, so no thermometer.
 

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I believe I posted here in the past what the lines on the temp display mean.

3 bars = 70 deg C
4 bars = 85 deg C
5 bars = 100 deg C
6 bars and red light = 110 deg C

I forgot what 2 bars is but it doesn't really matter much anyway because you're not really going to be that low when riding. I think it's either 55 or 60 degrees though.
 

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One engine, 2 wheels, reformed squid rider 😂🐙
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Awesome tuner logic with this setup and good to see someone's theory turn into an actual product.
I look forward to seeing what you find for temperatures. 👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Guys,
There is a reason that I put the water sensor probe where I did. The thermostat & temp probe SEE the highest water temps coming out of the engine, before the water is cooled by the radiator. Radiator cap thermometers are notoriously inaccurate, and the coolant is then after the radiator. The real reason for all of this is that I'm helping build a few Moto America Junior Cup engines this year, and we will surely be dealing with hot engines. This will show me, if we need to add a second lower radiator to the upper OEM unit to sufficiently cool the engine during a long race. It will also tell us if the team removes the thermostat, and replaces it with a flow restrictor, what size restrictor is needed for a specific weekend. It's all good data, all positive, and it should be fun.
Brian
 

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I believe I posted here in the past what the lines on the temp display mean.

3 bars = 70 deg C
4 bars = 85 deg C
5 bars = 100 deg C
6 bars and red light = 110 deg C

I forgot what 2 bars is but it doesn't really matter much anyway because you're not really going to be that low when riding. I think it's either 55 or 60 degrees though.
This is good info, I have too write this down somewhere. I had too convert all these too Fahrenheit. So the 400 runs cooler than I thought, I am usually at 3 or 4 bars on the track.
When I had the ECU flashed, I think I had them set it too 205 F for the fan too come on. I know for sure I had the fan set for 205 F on my 7fiddy by the dyno tuner. He asked if I wanted 195 F or 205 F, I thought 195 F was too low. Stock it was set too 222 or 224 F on the Gixxers.
I know above 234 F is head gasket destroying temps, I have had several older BMWs and know this for a fact. 🥺🥺🥺
 

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Guys,
I finally go tired of not knowing what the real water temps & oil temps are on my 2021 Ninja 400. My engine runs cooler than most with my 2nd reflash, but still, no one seems to really know what the gauge hash marks mean. So I made a drain plug probe, & a thermostat housing probe. I did not shoot a photo of the drain plug, but here's a shot of the housing that I just finished tonight. It has a chromate finish to stop any corrosion. The probe is a standard SAE thermocouple that goes to a digital reader. I can measure both temps at the same time. What's the reason for all of this, well, when I was heavily involved in Honda Grom speed parts, I probed the oil temps, only to fine that the Honda engine's oil never got over 185 degrees. So it would make oil, water would condense in the oil pan, because it would never boil out. So, more data.
Brian
Something to remember here is water doesn’t need to boil to evaporate. Yes, more heat and lower humidity make it evaporate more quickly but if your oil really needed to get to 212 degf to get rid of condensate there would be an awful lot of vehicles running around with oil pans full of water.

After it rains does your driveway need to be boiling to dry off? :)
 

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This is good info, I have too write this down somewhere. I had too convert all these too Fahrenheit. So the 400 runs cooler than I thought, I am usually at 3 or 4 bars on the track.
When I had the ECU flashed, I think I had them set it too 205 F for the fan too come on. I know for sure I had the fan set for 205 F on my 7fiddy by the dyno tuner. He asked if I wanted 195 F or 205 F, I thought 195 F was too low. Stock it was set too 222 or 224 F on the Gixxers.
I know above 234 F is head gasket destroying temps, I have had several older BMWs and know this for a fact. 🥺🥺🥺
I think it runs hotter than most other liquid cooled bikes. Most bikes run around 170-180 degrees. 85 to 100 C is like 185 to 212, but that seems to be on par for these bikes. But it varies a lot...outside temp is a big factor. I've seen my zx6r run anywhere from like 165 when it was in the 40s outside to around 205 on a hot day at Roebling when it was in the high 90s.
 

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Or read the sensor via OBD2 (at least the coolant temp). DIY Code Reading / Clearing via ODB2

oh snap…hmm do I smell Raspberry Pi, a little coding and a small lcd/tft some 3D printed housing and mount, to have onboard data acquisition in almost real time?! lol, wonder what the delay would be, latency…..

I mean I guess you could just use your phone and Bluetooth adapter to see it…
 
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