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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone know what type the front and rear indicator/signal light bulbs are?

Wanting to order a set of LED indicators to replace the incandescent crap.
 

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While there's an obvious screw for removing the rear signal glass to facilitate changing the bulbs, I don't see an obvious way to remove the front turn signal glass. Am I missing something?

Hmm, for that matter, while I find LED replacements for the RY10W, I so far haven't seen one for the WY10W. Curious. I'll keep looking. I know entirely new signal stalks with LED arrays are available, but that'd be a bit of work to replace which a single "bulb array" wouldn't be (did it on my old bike and was quite pleased with the result).

EDIT: And, answering my own second question, research suggests that the WY10W is basically a T13 bulb, where the "13" refers to the length of the "bulb" portion. There are some T10 and T15 options that should work in theory... Do I want to be the first to try it...?

Anyway, back to the front signals... How does one get access to the bulb?
 

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OK, as a way of saving what I've discovered for future reference, here are some options for replacing the rear turn signals with LEDs. Keep in mind you'd need an electronic flasher to keep the blink rate normal. https://tstindustries.com/TST-2-Pin-LED-Flasher-Relay-Gen2-F.html

For the fronts, these should do nicely: https://www.amazon.com/AMAZENAR-2-Pack-BAU15S-Signal-Lights/dp/B072XH5GND
The size difference compared to standard bulb: "bulb" portion may be a bit wider, but is not wider than the largest incandescent dimension I found for that type of bulb, so should not be a problem. Total length is 2.5 to 4.8 mm longer (basing on dimensions from two different manufacturers of the incandescent bulb). Looks like there's plenty of room inside the glass for that.

For the rears, these are smaller than the stock bulb: https://www.amazon.com/Extremely-240Lums-Generation-Non-Polarity-12V-24V/dp/B01KY7GCXW however, not nearly as many LEDs thus not nearly as bright as these: https://www.amazon.com/AMAZENAR-2-Pack-7443-Signal-Lights/dp/B01N4ROSKM which are as much as 7.4 mm longer than the incandescent bulb. Not sure if there's enough clearance to the back of the glass for that... maybe... Hard to tell by eyeballing it. In the middle is https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Stock-10Pcs-T10-194-168-W5W-2835-20SMD-400-Lumens-LED-Wedge-Light-Bulbs-12V/263577222438 which may be what to go with but for a pack of 10 to be that cheap is concerning (then again, LEDs don't cost much really). Those are slightly smaller than the stock bulb.

For reference, here are the dimensions of the stock bulbs, based on a few different dimensions provided by bulb manufacturers for that type bulb:

Front bulbs including connector are up to 19 mm wide, up to 37.5 mm tall.
Rear bulbs including connector are up to 13.5 mm wide, up to 32.6 mm tall.

I'll have to remove the existing bulbs to be quite sure of the connection type. As mentioned above I can't figure out if there's a simple way to get to the front turn signals, however.
 

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Tried removing the existing bulbs just now. Rear bulb was no problem. I can't figure out how to get to the front bulbs, however. I removed the lower cover section (eight push-to-release fasteners and two hex screws) which allowed me to grab the back of the socket, but no amount of twisting or pulling could make it budge. Granted, it's difficult to get much leverage when reaching around 180 degrees like this. The type of bulb in there should be a push-and-turn release, but that would mean removing the glass, which also doesn't budge though it does have a tab on the side that makes it seem like it should.

I'm reluctant to be too forceful with anything when I don't know if I'm even doing the correct action. Anyone figured it out yet?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
tried removing the existing bulbs just now. Rear bulb was no problem. I can't figure out how to get to the front bulbs, however. I removed the lower cover section (eight push-to-release fasteners and two hex screws) which allowed me to grab the back of the socket, but no amount of twisting or pulling could make it budge. Granted, it's difficult to get much leverage when reaching around 180 degrees like this. The type of bulb in there should be a push-and-turn release, but that would mean removing the glass, which also doesn't budge though it does have a tab on the side that makes it seem like it should.

I'm reluctant to be too forceful with anything when i don't know if i'm even doing the correct action. Anyone figured it out yet?
Are you replacing with LED or dual filament? Hope this helps...


IMG_20180705_135535.jpg
 

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So it is a turn I need to do to the socket, same as the rear. Thanks for that. It just isn't turning as easily as the rear socket did, but then as I said it's difficult to get leverage when reaching around 180 degrees. I'll go ahead and order up some LEDs and a new relay and give it a go with a bit more force.
 

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Note, when it comes to the rears, the second link I saved above will not work! Those are T20 size bulbs, which have a wider connector. I didn't even notice those were T20 until I received them today. The size we need is used by T10, T13 and T15. I have ordered the 4-pack in the first link for the rears, instead -- even though they list a brightness of 240 lumens versus 400 lumens for that 10-pack, I'm just a little wary of the 10-pack as possibly not being very good about heat dissipation or something. So, I'll stick with the same brand as I got for the fronts, which I linked to above as well.

The brightness of these fronts (rated 600 lumens) is something to behold. Here's a quick video. The camera doesn't do it justice as it compensates. I should have recorded how much of the garage was being lit up by it compared to the stock incandescent bulb.
 

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I have a set of rear turn signal "bulbs" arriving Tuesday and will check them out, making a similar comparison video. They are the Amazenar 4-pack with 18 of type 3014 LEDs, with a circle of LEDs around the outside. The 3014 type are not as bright or intense as the 2835 type used on the fronts that I got, but the circular pattern should make them all right.

However, I just found a seller in Hong Kong of those brighter T10s with the 2835 type LEDs -- same as in that 10-pack from the seller in California, but this seller is selling just a pair. Per bulb it's more expensive, but as I really don't need 10, and it's only $4 with free shipping, I decided to get a pair of those as well. Obviously, shipping from Hong Kong versus neighboring California will take longer, so I'll have to do a comparison of the two after I get the second shipment. The 2835 type are brighter and more intense but arranged in a square pattern, so the distribution of light into the reflective surface of the signal pod may not be as good. We shall see!

There are even brighter LED options out there, like 5050 type, but those don't have integrated heat sinks so may not last as long because they'll cook themselves to death.
 

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NOTE: SuperBrightLEDs.com now has EX400-compatible listings. They didn't when I was looking up parts before. I got turn signals from them for my XJ600 years ago and was really pleased with them.

Here are the fronts: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/7507-py21w-led-bulb-18-smd-led-tower-bau15s-retrofit-car/527/1703/

Note that their prices are per bulb, so you have to order two to get a set. Their site, however, does not seem to realize that the Ninja 400 has a different socket type in the rear, so their compatibility search suggests the same bulbs for the front are compatible with the rear location. I sent them a message about this so hopefully they'll correct that.
 

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Nice. But of course if you want to change the rears to LEDs I don't think you'll find one in that tiny size that won't cause hyperflash, so you'll need an electronic flasher unit anyway. I just installed the first set of two different types of possibilities for the rear turn signals. I have to edit the video and will post it soon.
 

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Here's the first option of rear signals. Another option is on the way, which may or may not fit. But these do and are quite nice.

 

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OK, I got the cheaper ones for the rear signals finally. They're good, but not as good as the Amazenar ones in the video above. I didn't do a comparison video of the two rear types, but can if there is demand given how much cheaper the others were.

Final verdict is

Fronts: https://www.amazon.com/AMAZENAR-2-Pack-BAU15S-Signal-Lights/dp/B072XH5GND
Rears: https://www.amazon.com/Extremely-240Lums-Generation-Non-Polarity-12V-24V/dp/B01KY7GCXW (sold in pack of four unfortunately)
Electronic flasher unit: https://tstindustries.com/TST-2-Pin-LED-Flasher-Relay-Gen2-F.html (maybe a better one can be found in future; this one has a delay of up to one second before lights signals turn on -- a supercapacitor may help to some degree, keeping the electronics operational for a long period of time so it doesn't have to boot up nearly every time you flip the switch)
 

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Rear LED Blinker/Brake Lights

I haven't hooked these up yet, but I may make the red brake lights into 2 extra red tail lights for safety depending on the brightness. If they're super bright I'll leave them as 2 extra brake lights. The combined blinker lights are amber.
 

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While there's an obvious screw for removing the rear signal glass to facilitate changing the bulbs, I don't see an obvious way to remove the front turn signal glass. Am I missing something?

Hmm, for that matter, while I find LED replacements for the RY10W, I so far haven't seen one for the WY10W. Curious. I'll keep looking. I know entirely new signal stalks with LED arrays are available, but that'd be a bit
Here's the first option of rear signals. Another option is on the way, which may or may not fit. But these do and are quite nice.

do u need the Load Resistor Kit if 6k bulbs?
 

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I have the TST turn signal relay, better than wiring in a bunch of resistors and works perfectly, no rapid flash with LED’s all around.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
+1 on the TST turn signal relay. And it is flash rate adjustable.
 
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