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+10000 for disabling the ABS on the track. On many bikes, you can simply pull the right fuse to eliminate the pump without changing the lines. It provides zero benefit on the track as no regularly maintained racing surface is going to have oil, coolant, or dirt patches large enough to activate it when braking in a straight line.

The problem with using it is the unpredictability. You can seemingly use the same brake pressure while braking at the same mark each lap and you will sometimes get the braking you expect and other times the ABS will activate and send you freewheeling into the corner. That's not as large of a problem going 110mph on the 400, but it is quite scary arriving at a corner at 165mph on an R1 and suddenly having no brake pressure.
 
Thanks for the info guys! Well I took the bike on a 180 mile ride on Saturday through most of the canyons in my area and surprisingly once I got the one finger grab with my middle finger to modulate the braking, I only got into abs a couple of times under heavy braking, but it wasn't that bad compared to what I complained about prior. If you all think the ABS is that bad on track, I will probably pull the fuse. Do you all think ABS would be more invasive with stickier tires? If so forget it. Fuse will be pulled lol. Sounds like DSC on a car where when the abs kicks in you can't push the pedal further while it corrects. Yuck.

Also, thoughts on the stock tires for a track day? I'm really doing a riding clinic, but will probably get plenty of laps to really push. Don't want to delaminate these things if they're really not up to par, but also don't want to compensate for skill. Will be upgrading the front rotor for sure as I'm not dealing with it cracking.
 
Thanks for the info guys! Well I took the bike on a 180 mile ride on Saturday through most of the canyons in my area and surprisingly once I got the one finger grab with my middle finger to modulate the braking, I only got into abs a couple of times under heavy braking, but it wasn't that bad compared to what I complained about prior. If you all think the ABS is that bad on track, I will probably pull the fuse. Do you all think ABS would be more invasive with stickier tires? If so forget it. Fuse will be pulled lol. Sounds like DSC on a car where when the abs kicks in you can't push the pedal further while it corrects. Yuck.

Also, thoughts on the stock tires for a track day? I'm really doing a riding clinic, but will probably get plenty of laps to really push. Don't want to delaminate these things if they're really not up to par, but also don't want to compensate for skill. Will be upgrading the front rotor for sure as I'm not dealing with it cracking.
Just depends on how hard you're pushing it. You can definitely leave ABS on without any trouble if you're pushing 7/10 on the brakes or if you know how to ride just inside the activation point. If the track is bumpy in braking zones it'll be tough not to the have ABS interfere though.

In theory sticker tires should activate ABS less due to less slippage, but the Ninja ABS kicks in even without a proper lock up which is why hard brakers don't like it on track. I've braked hard on flat surfaces and had the ABS activate even though my front tire wasn't "skidding", but presumably slipping microscopically enough to trigger it. The rear wheel should lift before the front skids unless the front tire is rubbish or the compound is slippy when cold. I don't think Ninja 400 electronics has anti rear wheel lift, just sensitive ABS which has the same effect.
 
Just depends on how hard you're pushing it. You can definitely leave ABS on without any trouble if you're pushing 7/10 on the brakes or if you know how to ride just inside the activation point. If the track is bumpy in braking zones it'll be tough not to the have ABS interfere though.

In theory sticker tires should activate ABS less due to less slippage, but the Ninja ABS kicks in even without a proper lock up which is why hard brakers don't like it on track. I've braked hard on flat surfaces and had the ABS activate even though my front tire wasn't "skidding", but presumably slipping microscopically enough to trigger it. The rear wheel should lift before the front skids unless the front tire is rubbish or the compound is slippy when cold. I don't think Ninja 400 electronics has anti rear wheel lift, just sensitive ABS which has the same effect.
Probably why I was so surprised of the ABS intervention in the first place before I changed my technique so greatly. Wasn't even close to locking the wheel and felt it. Kinda lame. Might try the first session with it on to warm up to the track. If its to invasive, out the fuse goes lol. I imagine it getting worse as the day goes by and the track gets hot and greasy. Will just be careful to not lockup and flat spot lol. Probably overthinking it. This track isn't bumpy at all thankfully.
 
Little update... after testing the new Magura setup for the past few days and almost getting thrown off balance when maneuvering the bike at low speeds, I knew it was time to cut the dash to return the original clearance. Well my friend came up with a great solution and it looks really clean. No regrets at all and now and I can turn the bars full lock with no interference. Super happy now. Not bad for a street ridden track bike. Haha.

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I've just today swapped out my EBC EPFA 197HH pads for Vesrah VD250RJL pads and the difference is substantial. I had been doing research and reading very positive reports about Vesrah RJL pads so I had to try. The Vesrah pads are a big improvement imo. Cost an arm and a leg at $120 NZD, but they perform like it. Far better cold and hot bite, and feel stronger in every way to the EPFA pads. No contest. The EPFA pads lacked bite and strength unless they were hot or you were going fast enough to generate some instant heat. They weren't great at braking from slower speeds. Braking from 100km vs braking from 30km produced significantly different performance. At 30km you'd have hardly any bite and need a lot more pressure on the lever, so not as good as the stock pads there, but significantly better than stock otherwise.

I pulled the 2x ABS fuses a while back while experimenting with the EPFA pads. It was a big enough improvement that I've been running without ABS for 10,000+km. Not something I'd recommend to anyone except seasoned non-ABS riders. I've had the Ninja ABS dangerously intrude a few times over bumps and general hard braking, so I don't miss it. This bike is the first I've had with ABS. For whatever reason I'm sure disabling ABS also improved the feel at the lever during any significant braking. Could be in my head.

So anyway, as it stands I've got the Brembo 5.5mm disk, Vesrah pads, stock lines with Motul RBF600 and getting some very solid braking performance.
 
Discussion starter · #71 ·
I've just today swapped out my EBC EPFA 197HH pads for Vesrah VD250RJL pads and the difference is substantial. I had been doing research and reading very positive reports about Vesrah RJL pads so I had to try. The Vesrah pads are a big improvement imo. Cost an arm and a leg at $120 NZD, but they perform like it. Far better cold and hot bite, and feel stronger in every way to the EPFA pads. No contest. The EPFA pads lacked bite and strength unless they were hot or you were going fast enough to generate some instant heat. They weren't great at braking from slower speeds. Braking from 100km vs braking from 30km produced significantly different performance. At 30km you'd have hardly any bite and need a lot more pressure on the lever, so not as good as the stock pads there, but significantly better than stock otherwise.

I pulled the 2x ABS fuses a while back while experimenting with the EPFA pads. It was a big enough improvement that I've been running without ABS for 10,000+km. Not something I'd recommend to anyone except seasoned non-ABS riders. I've had the Ninja ABS dangerously intrude a few times over bumps and general hard braking, so I don't miss it. This bike is the first I've had with ABS. For whatever reason I'm sure disabling ABS also improved the feel at the lever during any significant braking. Could be in my head.

So anyway, as it stands I've got the Brembo 5.5mm disk, Vesrah pads, stock lines with Motul RBF600 and getting some very solid braking performance.
Interesting, ive read good things about those pads too. Luckily there is only one caliper so that helps keep costs down. With our dollar being strong at the moment Ive been getting my race pads from the UK via ebay.
If you bang a direct braided line on there now bypassing the ABS unit you'll be doing stoppies everywhere! 😄
 
Interesting, ive read good things about those pads too. Luckily there is only one caliper so that helps keep costs down. With our dollar being strong at the moment Ive been getting my race pads from the UK via ebay.
If you bang a direct braided line on there now bypassing the ABS unit you'll be doing stoppies everywhere! 😄
Yeah I got these on ebay. Roughly - unit price was $80, shipping $20, GST and customs $20. *NZD
 
Thank you for the footwork gents, I just ordered a pair as well. I have been running the same EBC pads as you Grantman with no issues but if these are better then I'm in....... I happened to steal mine at $24 to my door.......Looks like a dealer was clearing out some old stock not knowing that they fit the N4 as well. Their loss my gain......:whistle:
 
$24 USD is a tremendous steal.

I looked online within NZ and found Vesrah RJL pads for other bikes, but not this part number. They were advertised around $130+ NZD, so even with the additional shipping and tax, the $120 NZD I paid was probably competitive locally.
 
The more I use the Vesrah VD250RJL (VD446RJL) brake pads, the more it's clear these things completely pulverise the EBC EPFA pads. The EPFA pads are roughly $20-$30NZD cheaper, but I wouldn't touch them now after these Vesrah pads. It really has been quite the revelation. Definitely the best value single upgrade for the brakes on this thing (combined with pulling the ABS fuses).
 
Discussion starter · #78 ·
The more I use the Vesrah VD250RJL (VD446RJL) brake pads, the more it's clear these things completely pulverise the EBC EPFA pads. The EPFA pads are roughly $20-$30NZD cheaper, but I wouldn't touch them now after these Vesrah pads. It really has been quite the revelation. Definitely the best value single upgrade for the brakes on this thing (combined with pulling the ABS fuses).
Could you perhaps put a link up?
 
In NZ there's a few places.

Ebay new part number 446
Ebay old part number 250
 
Discussion starter · #80 ·
In NZ there's a few places.

Ebay new part number 446
Ebay old part number 250
Cheers! I'll get some when the motorcycle account recovers, it's taken a bit of a hammering of late.
 
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