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I'm thinking about changing out my sprockets and chain, as well as the rear shock. And I wanted to see how do you all lift up your N400 in the middle? What do you use to get that bike in the air without using that rear swing arm?


I didn't know exactly where else to post this thread so sorry if it's not in the perfect place either lol.
 

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Greetings


I'm thinking about changing out my sprockets and chain, as well as the rear shock. And I wanted to see how do you all lift up your N400 in the middle? What do you use to get that bike in the air without using that rear swing arm?


I didn't know exactly where else to post this thread so sorry if it's not in the perfect place either lol.
Bursig makes a side stand that lifts by the frame, SV Racing parts makes a paddock stand that lifts by the frame, probably even some cheaper Chinese options, but even with these you still need a way to "support" the swingarm to remove the rear shock. A 2x4 under the rear tire can work with the right monkeying about.

But, there is a much easier and cheaper way. Purchase or use any rear stand, I prefer swingarm spool stands, but a rear swingarm stand that uses the actually swingarm with rubber padded arms to lift on should be fine, might make it a little tougher to find that sweet spot, but should work.
2 jack stands, price, rating, etc. does not matter much, so long as they work.
Also I like to get a small section of 2x4 and sometimes depending on the surface a small section of 1x4 or thinner board.

1. Put the bike on a rear stand
2. Remove the pins that hold the foot pegs in and take the foot pegs off
3. Install the foot pegs back on the bike upside down, so now they just flop down towards the ground like floppy dog ears
4. Fold the foot pegs up as far as they will fold up and place a jack stand under each foot peg, so now the bike is sorta resting on the foot pegs. Tip: To protect the foot pegs, take rubber hose that will slide over the foot pegs before placing the jacks stands under them. If you have some laying around that almost fits, cut a slit all the way down one side of it, run the length of it, they will slide over then.
5.Loosen the nuts/bolts holding the shock on the bike, do not try to remove the bolts yet
6. Using your other hand, or a friend, take the rear swingarm stand and move it up as if you are taking the bike off the stand. Once the stand is moved to a certain spot, the motorcycle will now be supported by the jack stands.

At this point you should be able to pull the lower shock bolt out of the bike, if not move the swingarm stand either way until it does get easy to take out.
*Not necessary, but makes my life easier, at this point, the bike is on the jack stand and the rear stand is up in the air almost not supporting the bike anymore, and I can pull the lower shock bolt out of the bike, I put a 2x4 or 2x4 and 1x4(stacking blocks to make up the gap) under the tire to now support the rear swingarm and tire from dropping all the way to the floor which is pretty far off the lining up of the bolt holes.
Once the rear tire is supported, and the swingarm stand is just kind of hanging out or removed from the bike, I pull the lower shock mount bolt out and start removing the upper bolt, etc.
The jack stands will support the bike at this point.

When I go back together with it and put the lower shock mount bolt back in the bike I usually have to use the swingarm rear stand, depending on how well I was able to stack boards under the rear tire, with one hand while moving the swingarm up or down to line up the bolt hole for the lower shock mount. Since that is the last thing I put in to button it back up, requires little messing about with moving the swingarm and rear tire weight around to line up the shock mount(s).

Then torque everything up and return the foot pegs and bike to the way it was.

Also something to note, they claim you should replace the shock bolt nuts after each loosen and tighten, but I usually just torque them and occasionally check there torque after riding.
The reason being they are locking nuts, but use metal tabs to lock against the threads to avoid rattling loose and on and off of those bend the locking tabs out enough they no longer work, but you could tap them, or just check them every now and then to be sure. Or replace them, whichever works, but if they come on and off a few times to make adjustments and etc. could get pricey(I had to pull mine back off to add washers to the right side of the dogbones to provide enough clearance for the spring, I can now fit a folded piece of paper between the spring and the dog bone, linkage on that side, left side always had enough clearance)

I just did that, knowing this, I should have made a video of how..........ahh well:grin:
 

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Bursig makes a side stand that lifts by the frame, SV Racing parts makes a paddock stand that lifts by the frame, probably even some cheaper Chinese options, but even with these you still need a way to "support" the swingarm to remove the rear shock. A 2x4 under the rear tire can work with the right monkeying about.

But, there is a much easier and cheaper way. Purchase or use any rear stand, I prefer swingarm spool stands, but a rear swingarm stand that uses the actually swingarm with rubber padded arms to lift on should be fine, might make it a little tougher to find that sweet spot, but should work.
2 jack stands, price, rating, etc. does not matter much, so long as they work.
Also I like to get a small section of 2x4 and sometimes depending on the surface a small section of 1x4 or thinner board.

1. Put the bike on a rear stand
2. Remove the pins that hold the foot pegs in and take the foot pegs off
3. Install the foot pegs back on the bike upside down, so now they just flop down towards the ground like floppy dog ears
4. Fold the foot pegs up as far as they will fold up and place a jack stand under each foot peg, so now the bike is sorta resting on the foot pegs. Tip: To protect the foot pegs, take rubber hose that will slide over the foot pegs before placing the jacks stands under them. If you have some laying around that almost fits, cut a slit all the way down one side of it, run the length of it, they will slide over then.
5.Loosen the nuts/bolts holding the shock on the bike, do not try to remove the bolts yet
6. Using your other hand, or a friend, take the rear swingarm stand and move it up as if you are taking the bike off the stand. Once the stand is moved to a certain spot, the motorcycle will now be supported by the jack stands.

At this point you should be able to pull the lower shock bolt out of the bike, if not move the swingarm stand either way until it does get easy to take out.
*Not necessary, but makes my life easier, at this point, the bike is on the jack stand and the rear stand is up in the air almost not supporting the bike anymore, and I can pull the lower shock bolt out of the bike, I put a 2x4 or 2x4 and 1x4(stacking blocks to make up the gap) under the tire to now support the rear swingarm and tire from dropping all the way to the floor which is pretty far off the lining up of the bolt holes.
Once the rear tire is supported, and the swingarm stand is just kind of hanging out or removed from the bike, I pull the lower shock mount bolt out and start removing the upper bolt, etc.
The jack stands will support the bike at this point.

When I go back together with it and put the lower shock mount bolt back in the bike I usually have to use the swingarm rear stand, depending on how well I was able to stack boards under the rear tire, with one hand while moving the swingarm up or down to line up the bolt hole for the lower shock mount. Since that is the last thing I put in to button it back up, requires little messing about with moving the swingarm and rear tire weight around to line up the shock mount(s).

Then torque everything up and return the foot pegs and bike to the way it was.

Also something to note, they claim you should replace the shock bolt nuts after each loosen and tighten, but I usually just torque them and occasionally check there torque after riding.
The reason being they are locking nuts, but use metal tabs to lock against the threads to avoid rattling loose and on and off of those bend the locking tabs out enough they no longer work, but you could tap them, or just check them every now and then to be sure. Or replace them, whichever works, but if they come on and off a few times to make adjustments and etc. could get pricey(I had to pull mine back off to add washers to the right side of the dogbones to provide enough clearance for the spring, I can now fit a folded piece of paper between the spring and the dog bone, linkage on that side, left side always had enough clearance)

I just did that, knowing this, I should have made a video of how..........ahh well:grin:
Wow, I am really impressed! Never thought about reversing the foot pegs.
 

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Bursig makes a side stand that lifts by the frame, SV Racing parts makes a paddock stand that lifts by the frame, probably even some cheaper Chinese options, but even with these you still need a way to "support" the swingarm to remove the rear shock. A 2x4 under the rear tire can work with the right monkeying about.

But, there is a much easier and cheaper way. Purchase or use any rear stand, I prefer swingarm spool stands, but a rear swingarm stand that uses the actually swingarm with rubber padded arms to lift on should be fine, might make it a little tougher to find that sweet spot, but should work.
2 jack stands, price, rating, etc. does not matter much, so long as they work.
Also I like to get a small section of 2x4 and sometimes depending on the surface a small section of 1x4 or thinner board.

1. Put the bike on a rear stand
2. Remove the pins that hold the foot pegs in and take the foot pegs off
3. Install the foot pegs back on the bike upside down, so now they just flop down towards the ground like floppy dog ears
4. Fold the foot pegs up as far as they will fold up and place a jack stand under each foot peg, so now the bike is sorta resting on the foot pegs. Tip: To protect the foot pegs, take rubber hose that will slide over the foot pegs before placing the jacks stands under them. If you have some laying around that almost fits, cut a slit all the way down one side of it, run the length of it, they will slide over then.
5.Loosen the nuts/bolts holding the shock on the bike, do not try to remove the bolts yet
6. Using your other hand, or a friend, take the rear swingarm stand and move it up as if you are taking the bike off the stand. Once the stand is moved to a certain spot, the motorcycle will now be supported by the jack stands.

At this point you should be able to pull the lower shock bolt out of the bike, if not move the swingarm stand either way until it does get easy to take out.
*Not necessary, but makes my life easier, at this point, the bike is on the jack stand and the rear stand is up in the air almost not supporting the bike anymore, and I can pull the lower shock bolt out of the bike, I put a 2x4 or 2x4 and 1x4(stacking blocks to make up the gap) under the tire to now support the rear swingarm and tire from dropping all the way to the floor which is pretty far off the lining up of the bolt holes.
Once the rear tire is supported, and the swingarm stand is just kind of hanging out or removed from the bike, I pull the lower shock mount bolt out and start removing the upper bolt, etc.
The jack stands will support the bike at this point.

When I go back together with it and put the lower shock mount bolt back in the bike I usually have to use the swingarm rear stand, depending on how well I was able to stack boards under the rear tire, with one hand while moving the swingarm up or down to line up the bolt hole for the lower shock mount. Since that is the last thing I put in to button it back up, requires little messing about with moving the swingarm and rear tire weight around to line up the shock mount(s).

Then torque everything up and return the foot pegs and bike to the way it was.

Also something to note, they claim you should replace the shock bolt nuts after each loosen and tighten, but I usually just torque them and occasionally check there torque after riding.
The reason being they are locking nuts, but use metal tabs to lock against the threads to avoid rattling loose and on and off of those bend the locking tabs out enough they no longer work, but you could tap them, or just check them every now and then to be sure. Or replace them, whichever works, but if they come on and off a few times to make adjustments and etc. could get pricey(I had to pull mine back off to add washers to the right side of the dogbones to provide enough clearance for the spring, I can now fit a folded piece of paper between the spring and the dog bone, linkage on that side, left side always had enough clearance)

I just did that, knowing this, I should have made a video of how..........ahh well:grin:

Well that was a more detailed response than I was expecting. I appreciate it very much lol. Definitely makes the task sound a little more possible for me to accomplish on my own. Although I feel like I'm soon having too many tools to store what with having no garage, living in LA lol. Need to replace my Prius with a Ford transit connect or somethin.
 

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I use a ratchet strap over a rafter in the garage to either side of the rear frame.
 
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Bursig makes a side stand that lifts by the frame
I have five Bursig stands (different bikes) and they are awesome! However, I do not see they offer a plate for the 400 - Which plate are you using for the Bursig and 400?

Thanks.
Mike
 

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What on earth made you revive a random 13-month old thread??
I just did the Spears swing arm pivot bolt replacement. For some reason this thread was at the top in my browser on my PC.

But, information like this doesn't go out of date. Not sure why people get all bent when someone posts to an existing thread.
 

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I just did the Spears swing arm pivot bolt replacement. For some reason this thread was at the top in my browser on my PC.

But, information like this doesn't go out of date. Not sure why people get all bent when someone posts to an existing thread.
I just always wonder what goes through people's minds lol It doesn't particularly bother me, but I just wonder because it seems so random when people do this. Like you just wake up one day, get on the forum and search for some random old thread, after which you proceed to give your opinion on the matter even though it's been years maybe since the question was asked :LOL: The best ones are when someone asks help with something, whether it be knowledge or an actual action....like "bruh...you think he still needs help after 3 years, and hasn't figured it out by now??" :LOL:

I just find it rather baffling is all. It makes sense when someone searches for an old thread to ask a question that's similar to someone else's, rather than starting a new thread. But that's about the only time it makes sense...to me at least anyway :)
 

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Most people only live for the moment any more. They only want the answers to their question, now. They have no idea who Edison or Tesla was. They only want to know why they are in the dark. :)
 

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I have five Bursig stands (different bikes) and they are awesome! However, I do not see they offer a plate for the 400 - Which plate are you using for the Bursig and 400?

Thanks.
Mike
Dang nice! 5 Bursig stands?!?!.......I actually have 0 myself, sorry if I mislead you there, but yeah I do not have one.
I have seen them, and used one before on one of my bikes, but it was not mine.......

Not sure about which plate, I wonder if anyone has used one with the 400 and could advise.......if you want to give me one I can figure out for you which plate will work? lol

Wonder if I would have to make one? I see one for the 300 on their site.........which I doubt that would work since the 300 and 400 frames appear to be so much different.......
 

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I just always wonder what goes through people's minds lol It doesn't particularly bother me, but I just wonder because it seems so random when people do this. Like you just wake up one day, get on the forum and search for some random old thread, after which you proceed to give your opinion on the matter even though it's been years maybe since the question was asked :LOL: The best ones are when someone asks help with something, whether it be knowledge or an actual action....like "bruh...you think he still needs help after 3 years, and hasn't figured it out by now??" :LOL:

I just find it rather baffling is all. It makes sense when someone searches for an old thread to ask a question that's similar to someone else's, rather than starting a new thread. But that's about the only time it makes sense...to me at least anyway :)

Well, I can tell you what goes on mine. As I browsed the forum, I noticed people saying "use the search" or point to similar topics when folks start new threads / topics. So I guessed that it is the proper netiquette to use topics if you have anything to say about them.
 

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Y'all are too fancy; get the rear up w/ rear stand, then block up under the motor w/ different size chunks of wood, using a soft piece (redwood or cedar) where the motor rests, then remove rear stand. You'll wanta loosen the counter shaft sprocket before you raise the bike, cuz they'z a beeeoootch to get off.
 
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