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2018 Kawasaki Ninja ABS Matte Black
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Ninjas,

I replaced the rear brake pads 4 weeks ago with HH sintered pads because one side had worn unevenly. Now, 4 weeks of moderately much riding later, they look like this:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive fuel system Bumper


BASICALLY, one side is not wearing at all, the other seems to be rubbing against the brake rotor even when brakes not applied. When I turn the rear wheel manually to do chain maintenance, i can hear an interval 'shh.......shhh...sshh' from the rotor. I bought new pads and pins, and see if that'll fix it. Will take rear apart this weekend and replace rear wheel and then also clean and do the brakes. I am very new to motorcycles but trying my best to get goot at maintenance and technicals.

Any ideas what could be causing this? What should I be looking for? Should I replace rotors?

Best,
M
 

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Registered
2018 Kawasaki Ninja ABS Matte Black
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Hey Ninjas,

I replaced the rear brake pads 4 weeks ago with HH sintered pads because one side had worn unevenly. Now, 4 weeks of moderately much riding later, they look like this:


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive fuel system Bumper


BASICALLY, one side is not wearing at all, the other seems to be rubbing against the brake rotor even when brakes not applied. When I turn the rear wheel manually to do chain maintenance, i can hear an interval 'shh.......shhh...sshh' from the rotor. I bought new pads and pins, and see if that'll fix it. Will take rear apart this weekend and replace rear wheel and then also clean and do the brakes. I am very new to motorcycles but trying my best to get goot at maintenance and technicals.

Any ideas what could be causing this? What should I be looking for? Should I replace rotors?

Best,
M
 

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2019 Ninja 400 ABS, Pearl Storm Gray
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369 Posts
Does this help? You can find the full service manual in pdf form from freerider on this forum, still, I believe.

Motor vehicle Font Auto part Engineering Machine

One more snip of the boots:
Rectangle Gesture Font Paper Art

One last snip from the maintenance section (here they refer to "shaft" instead of "pin"?):
Font Rectangle Working animal Event Circle

It seems lack of silicone grease on the shafts/pins [C] and holes [D], or damage, may be your issue?
 

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Wonder if the caliper was in a bind, or crooked or the caliper bracket not properly aligned or in the groove.

Or like Rich said definitely something that has the caliper putting force on the rotor, not allowing it to move side to side any thereby constant pad drag
 

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2019 Ninja 400 ABS, Pearl Storm Gray
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See: Highly Uneven Brake Pad Wear - Opinions? | Ninja 400 Riders Forum

BTW, for what it is worth, there are two kinds of "floating" going on here...

1. The (front and rear on N400) caliper floats from side-to-side, on pins, to keep it centered around the rotor/disc (so both pads can exert pressure even though only one moves with pistons).

2. And the (front on N400) rotor/disc floats radially, on rivets, to allow it to expand/contract with heat, without warping.

So for this side-to-side issue, I'd check out the caliper and the caliper holder pins.
 

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See: Highly Uneven Brake Pad Wear - Opinions? | Ninja 400 Riders Forum

BTW, for what it is worth, there are two kinds of "floating" going on here...

1. The caliper floats from side-to-side, on pins, to keep it centered around the rotor/disc (so both pads can exert pressure even though only one moves with pistons).

2. And the rotor/disc floats axially, on rivets, to allow it to expand/contract with heat, without warping.

So for this side-to-side issue, I'd check out the caliper.
Not on the rear. So yeah, you're #1 point is what I'd be looking into as well. Probably a bit stuck somehow and isn't moving side to side like it's supposed to.
 

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2019 Ninja 400 ABS, Pearl Storm Gray
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Oh, you're right, not enough heat there I suppose...

I edited to make it clear... I also misused axially vs. radially originally!

(I was just trying to clarify because someone mentioned "floating rotor" -- and the rotor and caliper "floatings" are in two different directions...)

(Thank you whoever merged the threads! :))
 

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Just remove the rear caliper, rotor, lines, master and foot brake lever, send me the rotor, and toss the rest of it in the trash.......extra weight anyway ;)

I always grease the caliper pins when I pull the caliper off or change pads, or as the diagram calls them, "caliper holder shafts" , and then ensure it slides back and forth some on the pins mounted to the bracket, but not mounted on the bike, so no rotor between the pads/caliper. so you can move it or check it movement
 
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