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You can go up one tooth on the front sprocket, or down 3 teeth on the rear. I chose one up on the front because;
1.) Less chain bind (A small front sproket causes more friction 'n power loss.
2.) It'll shorten the wheel base make'in the bike steer quicker, butt it'll be less stable at high speeds. (I don't care, I like my bikes twitchy like my women! :LOL: )
Good selecting of sprockets HERE
Also when you change the gearing, your check engine light will come on eventually, and gear selector will go crazy. The cure is to jump the clutch switch at the handlebars. See page 15b of this tread, @Boat has a nice pic 'n description. (y)

With the 15T front sprocket, was the decrease in wheelbase VERY noticeable? I would think not. Butt stock wheelbase is perfectly fine, and I don't need it to be more squirrely. Would getting a new chain with an extra link offset this and set the wheelbase (closer) back to stock? I only say this because when I get the Norton power package installed, I feel a taller gearing will be necessary.
 

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Went 13 in front . Put 14 back on rode bout 130 mi. This morning. I paid attention. used 6th gear 6 times. Gotta 42 ordered for back. Not much difference bout 2.5%.. but hey that's me 🐉 and where I ride
 

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Went 13 in front . Put 14 back on rode bout 130 mi. This morning. I paid attention. used 6th gear 6 times. Gotta 42 ordered for back. Not much difference bout 2.5%.. but hey that's me 🐉 and where I ride
Yep, it all depends on where and how you ride. I have one of those fancy light weight 13 tooth front sprockets I haven't tried yet. I was saving it for if and when I ever do a trackday...

I was commuting to work on the freeway for about 20 miles each way, so that's why I decided to get the 38 tooth rear. I wanted to lower the RPM's while cruising on the freeway for long stretches at 80mph. I went from 8k to 7k RPMS at 80mph...

I also didn't really like how first gear was so short and I was sometimes having to shift into second while making left turns from a light (depending on the intersection). One thing about the 38 tooth rear is that wheelies are much harder in first gear...LOL
 

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I also didn't really like how first gear was so short
Around town with stop signs I've frequently been skipping second entirely and going to third (double-shift from first). The close ratios may be needed if at the GVWR with a passenger starting out on uphill slopes, but for a lot of riding wider ratios for some of the lower gears would probably be nice.

Several of my friends in the 1980s had Suzuki GS1100/1150s, the early air-cooled 16v motors. They were pretty torquey and had a wide powerband, and they'd drop a few teeth on the rear sprocket and still either skip second or just start out in second and avoid first gear.

A transmission that is ideal on the track or for "sporty" riding may not be the same one you want for everyday "just riding around" use.
 

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With the 15T front sprocket, was the decrease in wheelbase VERY noticeable? I would think not. Butt stock wheelbase is perfectly fine, and I don't need it to be more squirrely. Would getting a new chain with an extra link offset this and set the wheelbase (closer) back to stock? I only say this because when I get the Norton power package installed, I feel a taller gearing will be necessary.
:LOL: Dunno, never got my nut off! :LOL: The counter shaft sprocket :LOL:
I've since gotta big-ass breaker bar, 'n 4' pipe in case I need a little more persuasion?
My front wheel supposed to arrive tomorrow, gotta mount 'n balance new tyre, then ride the thing to see if I'm gonna need to send off the rear; it's bent, butt not as bad as the front was.
Do the kawasaki specified ride sequence if you want to get rid of it straight away.
? Link?
 

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Discussion Starter #327
Ah dang, I was hoping no one would ask that! It's in the workshop manual some where, I'll have to dig it out tonite as I'm on my half hr lunch break. I know I've posted it a couple of times previous but a quick try of the search box function didnt bring it up. Someone else may be able to dig it it before me.

Late edit: Found the thread:
Clearing error/fault codes
 

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So today I spent most of the day riding trying to clear the CEL with the jumper in place from doing the front gear upgrade 14t to 15t.

1.10 mins riding over 40klm
2.turn off after 10 mins at the ignition
3. repeat process x3

unfortunately, I can't share the same results I still have the CEL on.

My bike is 2020

oh and side note error code 25
 

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Hopefully mine will go out soon , I really like having a gear indicator :)

And plus the added tooth made 1st and 2nd easy to live with now.

If the gear indicator comes back I'll be adding a 38t to the rear.
With the 15T regear, did u readjust chain slack? And while riding the bike, how did it feel handling wise? Was it more squirrely in the turns? Did it affect handling at all?
 

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With the 15T front sprocket, was the decrease in wheelbase VERY noticeable? I would think not. Butt stock wheelbase is perfectly fine, and I don't need it to be more squirrely. Would getting a new chain with an extra link offset this and set the wheelbase (closer) back to stock? I only say this because when I get the Norton power package installed, I feel a taller gearing will be necessary.
It's such a small difference, unnoticeable. Our bikes come with 106 links so you would order a chain with 107. Removing the stock counter sprocket takes power tools, Kawasaki had a gorilla install the gear.
 

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It's such a small difference, unnoticeable. Our bikes come with 106 links so you would order a chain with 107. Removing the stock counter sprocket takes power tools, Kawasaki had a gorilla install the gear.

It's good to know that handling differences would be unnoticeable with the 15T.
 
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Hopefully mine will go out soon , I really like having a gear indicator :)

And plus the added tooth made 1st and 2nd easy to live with now.

If the gear indicator comes back I'll be adding a 38t to the rear.
Even without the clutch short out trick, the gear indicator and CEL will come back on intermittently. I hesitated to try this hack for awhile so I know by experience. Even with the paperclip short out thing I rode my Z400 normally and one day all was right with the world again without problems since.
 

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Discussion Starter #337
So today I spent most of the day riding trying to clear the CEL with the jumper in place from doing the front gear upgrade 14t to 15t.
I had the same result the first time I did it so I immediately re-did it more meticulously and it worked the 2nd time. Remember to let the bike idle for 30 seconds each time after starting before touching the throttle.
 

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With the 15T regear, did u readjust chain slack? And while riding the bike, how did it feel handling wise? Was it more squirrely in the turns? Did it affect handling at all?
Hi mate, Yes I had to change the chain tension, Handling wise mate i wouldn't really know as I've had the kids on the back so just taking it easy. But feels really nice.
 

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I think i might just
I had the same result the first time I did it so I immediately re-did it more meticulously and it worked the 2nd time. Remember to let the bike idle for 30 seconds each time after starting before touching the throttle.
I think I might just drop into the dealer to clear the codes, but if that fails ill try the throttle method as i didn't wait that long.;)
 

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I think i might just

I think I might just drop into the dealer to clear the codes, but if that fails ill try the throttle method as i didn't wait that long.;)
You have an error code 25. I posted about this myself, check it it out. Forgot who mentioned it but he said don't sweat it. So decided to just ride the thing, went for long rides with friends. Like I mentioned all functions cleared....just for awhile then cel and gear indicator malfunctioned once again. Finally I shorted the clutch switch and again ignored the problem, went for normal rides knowing eventually it would clear which it did. So my Z400 is in perfect running order and I'm a happy rider.
 
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