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Discussion Starter #302
Hi. I can't help you as I'm based in New Zealand but I know there are guys on the forum running 38T sprockets so they will be available somewhere. I havent got time to do a search now as I'm on my half hr lunch break but try Vortex site maybe. You'll probably find they will all be aluminium but thats Ok.
Someone else may also be able to chime in with info.

Late EDIT: Didnt see Boat's reply. Looks like your sorted.
 

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I'm go'in 1 tooth up on the front myself, (If I can ever get the counter shaft nut off? :LOL: ) Mechanic friend 'n former racer said bigger front sprockets = less friction/drag. Plus, I'll move the rear wheel forward, shortening the wheel base. (y)
Butt, HERE are some different colored rear sprockets including 38 teef.
EDIT make sure you read this whole thread, cuz changing yer sprocket will cause a CEL to come on, 'n gear indicator to go wacky, until you jump yer clutch switch.
 

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Will a 1 tooth difference in front sprocket only 13 T no back sprocket change, cause a CEL? Been reading this thread for 30 mins cant find the answer
 

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Have you considered going up to a 15 tooth in the front instead? That’s the route I went at first, and was much happier at highway cruising speeds.
Yep, this is the route to go in my eyes.
Essentially the same ratio change as a -3 rear, however it'll have less chain stress due to it turning a larger radius, hence should result in marginally less wear/stress on components over time.
 

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Discussion Starter #307
Yep, this is the route to go in my eyes.
Essentially the same ratio change as a -3 rear, however it'll have less chain stress due to it turning a larger radius, hence should result in marginally less wear/stress on components over time.
Agree with regard to chain wear and also cheaper to purchase I'd imagine. I wanted my axle right back in the slot for high speed stability. I dont do a lot of tight corner carving. Plus because I make these rear sprockets up from blanks I can produce them pretty cheaply.
.
 

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Will a 1 tooth difference in front sprocket only 13 T no back sprocket change, cause a CEL? Been reading this thread for 30 mins cant find the answer
Purdie sure it will, butt no biggie, I'll just jump the clutch switch. Or just put electrical tape over the idiot light? :LOL:
 

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Purdie sure it will, butt no biggie, I'll just jump the clutch switch. Or just put electrical tape over the idiot light? :LOL:
Ok, did the paper clip hack, the gear indicator is back on and CEL is off. Now what? Just leave the paper clip in or remove it and plug the clutch switch back in as normal?
 

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Discussion Starter #311
Ok, did the paper clip hack, the gear indicator is back on and CEL is off. Now what? Just leave the paper clip in or remove it and plug the clutch switch back in as normal?
Heck no, that suckers in there for life now! As soon as you pull it all the bad stuff happens again 😄
 

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really interesting, I've been thinking about it since 1st gear seems too short and torquy, and find myself having to go to 2nd very quickly (in city regular riding) and is also true that cruising on the higway I could use a longer 6th gear too... what are the options to get a rear sprocket? I live in Spain, are those standard or...?
 

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You can go up one tooth on the front sprocket, or down 3 teeth on the rear. I chose one up on the front because;
1.) Less chain bind (A small front sproket causes more friction 'n power loss.
2.) It'll shorten the wheel base make'in the bike steer quicker, butt it'll be less stable at high speeds. (I don't care, I like my bikes twitchy like my women! :LOL: )
Good selecting of sprockets HERE
Also when you change the gearing, your check engine light will come on eventually, and gear selector will go crazy. The cure is to jump the clutch switch at the handlebars. See page 15b of this tread, @Boat has a nice pic 'n description. (y)
 

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You can go up one tooth on the front sprocket, or down 3 teeth on the rear. I chose one up on the front because;
1.) Less chain bind (A small front sproket causes more friction 'n power loss.
2.) It'll shorten the wheel base make'in the bike steer quicker, butt it'll be less stable at high speeds. (I don't care, I like my bikes twitchy like my women! :LOL: )
Good selecting of sprockets HERE
Also when you change the gearing, your check engine light will come on eventually, and gear selector will go crazy. The cure is to jump the clutch switch at the handlebars. See page 15b of this tread, @Boat has a nice pic 'n description. (y)
thats veeery helpful Banjo, do we know what is the bike using the signal from the clutch switch for? bridging it looks supereasy, but makes me wonder if the bike doesnt need that information to be true at some point :unsure::unsure:... maybe to block the gear shifter lever? or is it mechanically locked somehow until you push the clutch handle??
I think I´ll go front sprocket, they're also cheaper so...
 

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Yeah, it's a safety thing so you have to have the clutch in when you start. After the jumper mod, you could start the bike in gear, 'n take off, so be careful. :LOL:
 

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Hi all,
First post here, I've been reading about the CEL coming on with gearing change.

And yes I did a front gear change from 14T to 15t after about 25klm I got the CEL without the jumper in place.grrr

So with the jumper in place now how long till the CEL goes away?

Cheers
 

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Hi all,
First post here, I've been reading about the CEL coming on with gearing change.

And yes I did a front gear change from 14T to 15t after about 25klm I got the CEL without the jumper in place.grrr

So with the jumper in place now how long till the CEL goes away?

Cheers
From my experience just ride it normal and one day it will all be working normal. I don't remember exactly but it took about three rides. The CEL and gear indicator has not been a problem since. One thing, don't hit your starter button while in gear.
 
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