For you wrencheads
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Impact works the best as the initial pounding is t as bad as using full force and pressure as a breaker bar would.
I've replaced the front sprocket on my Ninja and used an electric impact drill.
I also did this with the chain on the bike at both sprockets and used a 2x4 on the rear wheel against the spoke and swingarm.
Worked great and I'm about 5 seconds the front sprocket nut was off.
I also reinstalled the new sprocket and nut using the same method with the impact.
Don't know if this will help but hope it does. 🤞🙏🏽
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865 Posts
I didn't realize changing this was a thing. I thought it'd be good for the engines lifetime?
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3,164 Posts
Gotta pull the head
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190 Posts
You don't need to remove the timing chain sprocket at the lower end to do that.
Take off the cylinder head cover. Remove camshafts and then your timing chain is free. The head comes off. Just make sure you don't drop the timing chain.
I definitely recommend buying the shop manual. This procedure is covered in detail with torqies and bolt order of operations for tightening.
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3,164 Posts
Thank you falcn.
THAT is what. I needed to know.
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2,088 Posts
Dang sorry Tracy did not realize that was what you were doing. Exactly what falcn said. I used a long zip tie on the chain so I could easily grab it. I have also used wire and other things as well with other engines. A lot easier once you have the head off and looking at the crank. But yeah definitely not removing any sprockets. Also I am measure twice cut once, I make marks on everything and take pictures. It’s a little tough marking the cam chains with a engine paint marker for that stuff but if you are careful it won’t come off going back together, and it lines all up nicely and alot easier to see or understand than the marks in the manual(which as I mentioned in another post on first glance confused almost all of us, if even just for a minute)
Another method is to use safety wire to ensure you don't drop the timing chain.
Why are you pulling the head?
Oof, did you do a leakdown test first?
Why are you tearing apart an engine for low compression without a leakdown test? How will you know where to look and what you're looking for? If you don't know what a leakdown test is, are you sure you did the compression test correctly in the first place? If you're asking how to remove the timing sprocket but are just removing the head, and don't know what a leakdown test is, I really hope you're not too invested or reliant on this bike and are willing to accept losses. I'd highly suggest stopping, asking yourself if you have the necessary knowledge and experience to continue with confidence.
I'm not trying to be mean, and was actually trying to be a little humorous.
Engine work is especially tricky, and a fast way to kill any vehicle if you don't know what you're doing. I try to be helpful, but sometimes the best help is giving a bit of warning to people to pump the brakes and think before they act.
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2,088 Posts
Yeah you basically pressurize the cylinder that has bad compression, or low compression while that cylinder is at TDC, and then measure how much leaks off during the test. Tester typically has two gauges and air coupling hook up. All engines will have a very slight bit, but a great amount could indicate bad valve seats or guides, excessive carbon build up, blown head gasket, shot rings or scored cylinder walls, etc.
Does the motor smoke at all or have noticeable power loss, hesitation, etc.?
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