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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ninja 400 Fairing Removal - The Nuts and Bolts.

I removed my fairings and tank to get them painted and figure some may benefit from photos of all the nuts and their location.

There was no lock tight found on any of the bolts during the fairing removal process.

These posts also show the fairing removal sequence, each fairing section will have its own post in this thread. Its easier to remove the fairings using a pair of stands. A rear and front stand optimally, But having the bike in an upright position using just a rear stand will make life better... stands are not required - just makes it a bit easier.

Note: Small Nylon Push Pin Rivet, these have 3 positions " Locked, Remove and Install " see photo #5. When the center button is flush with its casing its in the locked position. When the center button is depressed 3mm inward below its casing you can remove the rivet. when the center button is pulled out 3mm above its casing you can install the rivet.

A very minimal amount of tools are needed to remove all the fairings and gas tank. Tool List: 3mm, 4mm, 5mm Allen Wrench - an 8mm and 10mm Socket & Ratchet or Wrenches - Adjustable Wrench - Micro Flat head screw driver - Long Phillips Screw Driver and dental pick as shown in photo #1.

Note: Cold weather means rubber is less pliable, it will require extra care not to break your fairing stand-offs or plunger while pulling them out of the rubber grommets, take your time and go slow. This project will take you about an hour to complete if you have some experience and longer if you dont. If you have to force it somethings wrong, Study the photos and see if your missing something. Even in warm weather you need to take your time and be cautious - Ill try and point out problem areas.

Lower Fairing Removal.

Remove all bolts and 1 Lrg 8mm Nylon Pull Pin Rivet Photo#6, Carefully pull the bottom of the lower fairings towards you and up to remove. store the 6 fasteners in a Ziploc bag labeled Lower Fairing.

You can use this link Fairing parts or the ninja 400 parts list found here on the forums to further identify your bike parts.

Photo 1. All the tools used to remove the fairings and gas tank from the bike.
Photo 2. Bolts that hold the fairings to the bike, Ill circle the ones for each fairing set.
Photo 3. Fairing front bolts 5X16 with nylon washers, 2 ea per side.
Photo 4. Fairing rear bolt 6X14 with metal Collar, 1 ea per side.
Photo 5. Nylon Push Pin Rivet button states.
Photo 6. Nylon 8mm pull pin rivet with button pulled out. Holds left and right Lower fairing sides together.
Photo 7. Your bike all Naked when your done reading this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Front Fender Removal.

This is a No-brainer but I still wanted to post the photos of the fasteners used for identification.

Remove the reflector 1 ea per side, Remove 6X30 bolt 1 ea per side. Slowly slide the fender forward away from the bike. store the fasteners in a Ziploc bag labeled Front Fender.

Caution the flat nut is held to the fender by a small tang and can be easily lost, carefully remove the flat nut by giving it a slight twist and place in your bag.

Photo 1. Reflector assembly. photo shows individual components.
Photo 2. Bolts used to attach fender to forks.
Photo 3. Front fender.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Tank Cowling Removal.

This will be your first chance to practice being careful. Use caution pulling the cowling plungers away from the rubber grommets. There are 4 plungers on each of the tank cowling's, study photos #4 and #5 below.

Remove the bolts 2 ea per side, and place them in a Ziploc bag labeled Tank Cowling, Starting at the rear of the tank cowling, slowly apply a small amount of pulling force as close to the cowling plunger as possible. There is enough room to slide your finger(s) in front of the rear bolt you took out to get close to the plunger.

Again start slowly increasing pulling pressure and the grommet will eventually release the plunger. when the grommets lose their grip on the plunger they tend to pop right out.

Continue onto the next closest plunger position as seen in the photo and repeat, immediately release pressure when each plunger pops out. you'll start to get a feel for it after the first few attempts. Also note that your fairing plastic is not as pliable as the tank cowling plastic... The faring plastic is stiff and can crack or snap if bent to far, which is why you need to apply pressure as close to the plungers as possible.

If this is your first time doing this you should watch a few faring removal videos to get an idea of what your up against. Its really not hard once you get the hang of it. If you do break a part you can sometimes make repairs to your plastic with Plastex and chalk it up to experience.

Photo 1. Cowling front bolt 5X20 with nylon washer, 1 ea per side.
Photo 2. Cowling rear bolt 5X12, 1 ea per side.
Photo 3. Bolts that hold the tank cowling's to the bike.
Photo 4. Rubber grommet Location.
Photo 5. Cowling plunger location.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Inner Cowling Removal

Remove the front inner cowling by pressing in each of the 8 push pin rivet buttons, Remove the rivets along with 2 bolts just under the Headlight Assembly ( see photos below ). and place them in a Ziploc bag labeled Inner Cowling.

Grab the cowling near the bottom edge and pull away from the main fairing, It will almost just fall out of place.

Photo 1. Upper push pin rivet location, 1 ea per side.
Photo 2. lower push pin rivet locations, 3 ea per side.
Photo 3. Cowling front bolts 5x12, 2 ea.
Photo 4. bolts and Rivets that hold Inner cowling to bike.
Photo 5. Cowling side view, with rivet holes circled.
Photo 6. Cowling front view, with bolt holes circled.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Side Fairing Removal.

The side fairings are a four part assembly, but are removed as a single unit. To minimize the stress on individual fairing components you should locate and apply a pulling force as close to the plunger area as possible.

Remove the twelve fasteners shown in photos #3 thru #7 and store them in a Ziploc bag labeled Side Fairings.

Pull the plunger out of the grommets at the rear of the left fairing photo #8 and #9 for better access the fuse boxes. place a dental pick or screw driver tip down between the metal bracket and fuse box photo #10, using it to deflect the plastic tang photo #11, away from hole in the bracket while carefully rocking the fuse box off the bracket.

Remove the two front turn signal connectors off their brackets by pulling them towards the fairing using a rocking motion, Depress the connector tab to separate the assembly photo #12 and #13. You can do this while removing each fairing side by having a helper hold the fairing while you separate the connector assembly if needed.

To remove the left fairing pull the plungers from the center and front grommets photo #14 by tilting the fairing assembly away from the bike at the bottom, pay close attention that the front plunger has been fully released before trying remove the two front alignment pins from the notches photo #15.

I tilted and balanced the fairing with one hand held near the center plunger and used the other hand to manipulate the fairing front to release the plunger and and alignment pins.

Remove the right fair using the same procedure starting at the rear of the fairing assembly.

Fasteners
Photo 1. Bolts and rivets that hold the side fairings to the bike.
Photo 2. Reference bolts use for comparison to other bolts, if hardware is mixed.
Photo 3. Upper rear section, flange Bolt 5X14 with washer 2ea per side.
Photo 4. Upper mid section, Push pin rivet 1 ea per side.
Photo 5. Upper mid section, Allen bolt 5X16 with washer 1 ea per side.
Photo 6. Lower mid section, Allen bolt 5X16 with washer 1 ea per side.
Photo 7. Front section Under Headlights, Allen bolt 5X12 1 ea per side.

Study Photos
Photo 8. left rear grommets location.
Photo 9. Left Rear Plungers.
Photo 10. Fuse box Bracket.
Photo 11. Tang.
Photo 12. Turn signal connector on bracket.
Photo 13. Connector tab.
Photo 14. Center and front grommets location.
Photo 15. Alignment pins and notches.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Front Fairing Removal.

The front fairing my look daunting, but is easily removed. Optional - Remove your mirrors and wind shield so you don't scratch the front fairing when removing it - photo #6 and #7, bag your bolts label and set aside.

Remove the 8 fasteners shown in photos #3 and #4. and store them in a Ziploc bag labeled front Fairings.

Disconnect the single headlight connector assembly shown in photo #5 by inserting a dental pick or micro screw driver under the clasp pointed to in photo and pull out to disconnect the assembly.

There are two plungers at the back of the headlight that hold it and the fairing to the bike see photo #8. place one hand under the headlamp to steady the fairing and the other hand on top of the fairing just above the headlight and slowly push down while pulling to dislodge the plungers, Be careful not to drop the assembly while pulling it away from the bike.

The headlight is held to the fairing by four Phillips screws and a plunger at the front - photo #9, remove the screws bag and label headlight. Pull out the headlight.

Photo 1. Bolts and rivets that hold the front fairing to the bike.
Photo 2. Reference bolts use for comparison, if hardware is mixed.
Photo 3. Side 5X16 Phillips screw and upper Rivet 1 ea per side.
Photo 4. Side 5X14 Flange bolt with washer and 6X25 flange bolt 1 ea per side.
Photo 5. Headlight Connector.
Photo 6. Upper allen 6X25 bolt 2 ea per side.
Photo 7. Mirrors and Windshield removed.
Photo 8. Headlight grommet location.
Photo 9. Phillips screws 4 ea and plunger.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Lower Rear Fairing Removal.

Remove the 8 fasteners holding the lower rear fairings to the bike shown in photos #2 thru#4. Store them in a Ziploc bag labeled lower rear fairings.

Note: Use great caution when removing these lower fairings. At the rear of each is a plastic retaining clip see photo #5, If you pull the fairing off by starting at the rear it will snap the small plastic retainer right off.

Remove the fairing by starting with the front most plungers and onward to the rear plunger pulling out and rotating upward from the bottom of the fairing carefully, Move the fairing towards the rear of bike to remove. study photo #6 and #7 for the plunger and grommet locations.

Photo 1. Bolts and Screws that hold the lower rear fairings to the bike.
Photo 2. Lower rear 5X16 Allen with washer 1 ea per side.
Photo 3. Lower front 5X10 Phillips screw 1 ea per side.
Photo 4. Upper Decorative 5X16 Allen with washer 1 ea per side and 6X25 Phillips 2 ea.
Photo 5. Lower rear retaining clip.
Photo 6. Fairing Plunger Location.
Photo 7. Grommet Location.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Upper Rear Fairing Removal.

Take out the 6 fasteners and 2 rivets holding the upper rear fairing to the bike shown in photos #2 and #3. Store them in a Ziploc bag labeled upper rear fairing. Use caution there are alignment tabs at the back of the rear upper fairing see photo #4.

Remove the upper rear fairing by lifting at the front an inch or two and sliding the fairing back towards the rear of the bike.

Photo 1. Fasteners that hold the upper rear fairing to the bike.
Photo 2. Lower side rivet and 5X10 phillips screw 2 ea per side.
Photo 3. upper 5X12 flange bolts with collar 4 ea.
Photo 4. Alignment tabs.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Bonus Post - Removing The Front Cover and Fuel Tank. Everything is being removed for paint so this should be included too.

Remove the 7 fasteners holding the Front Cover, Odo and Fuel Tank to the bike shown in photos #2 thru #4. Store them in a Ziploc bag labeled Tank, Odo & Cover. The Cover and Odo removal is optional. Technically the tank can be removed by removing the tank cowling alone - see tank cowling post #3, then back here for the remaining instructions.

Remove the Moisture cover and Harnees from the Odo by rolling back the rubber moisture cover at the back of the Odo and disconnect the Harness see photo #5 and #6 Wrap paper towels around the Odo place in a large plastic bag and store in a safe place.

Remove the front cover by releasing the two plungers at the rear of the cover, and dislodging the cover from the left and right mirror stand-offs'. Pull up at the rear of the cover moving it forward off the bike. Study the plunger and grommet locations on the front cover and frame see photo #7 and #8.

Fuel Tank Removal.

Disconnect the Fuel Pump connector using a dental pick or tiny screw driver by lifting up the clasp and pulling out the connector plug see photo #9.

Warning: The fuel line is under high pressure and may spray a small amount of fuel when disconnected, wear safety eye glasses and wrap the connection with a paper towel or shop rag when removing the line.

Suggestion: If the tank is full of fuel, siphon the fuel to a suitable container to reduce its weight befor removal.

Pull out the fuel line connector Clip that locks the connector to the fuel rail, see photo #10. Use a dental pick or screwdriver to slide the clip to the open position, see photo #11. wrap a towel over the connector and slowly remove it from the fuel rail.

Remove the left Overflow and right Evap hoses from the tank see photo #12.

Lift the rear of the fuel tank off the bike frame 2 to 3 inches with one hand while holding the side of the tank as close to front as feasible with the other. lift the fuel tank front plungers up and out of the retaining grommets at about a 45 degree angle, sliding the rear of the tank side to side while pulling up on the front of the tank will help dislodge the plungers.

Photo 1. Fasteners that hold the Cover, Odo & Tank to the bike.
Photo 2. Cover 5X12 Allen 1 ea per side.
Photo 3. Tank 6X25 flange bolt 2 ea per assembly.
Photo 4. Odo 5X14 Screw 3 ea per assembly.
Photo 5. Moisture Cover with meter connector.
Photo 6. Odo Rear view.
Photo 7. Cover plunger location.
Photo 8. Frame grommet locations.
Photo 9. Fuel pump connector location.
Photo 10. Lower fuel line disconnect location.
Photo 11. Fuel line clip released.
Photo 12. Fuel tank Overflow and Evep hoses.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Ninja 400 Fairing Removal Thread Is Now Complete...!

I'd like to say thank you to everyone for not posting in this thread while it was under construction, we now have a nice clean consecutively posted thread on how to remove the ninja 400 Fairings... With photos of every Nut & Bolt that holds the fairings to the bike. I'm hoping everyone will use and benefit from it.

lol how many times have we taken something apart, only to put it back together and wonder which bolt goes where, or worse have extras left over when were done and wonder... Hmm where do these go. I know I'm guilty, it happens - So in essence I made this thread for my own benefit as well as others.

Now go have some fun and take your fairings off...
 

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So, have you decided on a color? or will it be a surprise?
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
So, have you decided on a color? or will it be a surprise?
I haven't decided on the color or whether it will be a 2K paint or Plasti Dip.

Just wanted to say thanks for this awesome and detailed post!
I was scared to remove some of the fairings and this was exactly what I needed
You have nothing to fear now, Your welcome.
 

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Mr Mike I think you did an excellent job!! :grin::nerd::grin:
I can't wait for the real time Video, when you put every screw back in!!! :grin::devil::grin:
 
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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Mr Mike I think you did an excellent job!! :grin::nerd::grin:
I can't wait for the real time Video, when you put every screw back in!!! :grin::devil::grin:
By your command... Here watch this video in real-time.


On the funny side, Making this whole thread about being careful to not lose any fasteners - After putting all the fairings back on I was short 1 Allen Bolt.. Go figure..!

lol I didn't say the video was in real time, but that you could watch in real time... :grin:
 

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Mr Mike

Awesome job, thanks for the effort of sharing.
Now you maybe able to answer a question I have, or another member perhaps, So how does the 400 fairing removal compare to the 300.?
Early this year I removed the side panels, and fuel tank on the 300, and I have to say I was surprised how much work it took, Sure once you have done a few times it will be much quicker and easier, but Im in the habit of whipping off panels and giving said bikes a good wash, and Kawasaki haven't made the little ninja very fast n friendly for that...

Cheers W
 
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