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Not sure...I'll do my best to follow the manual.
Just ordered a complete cylinder head assembly off ebay for $660. There were 6 available this morning, but this one was the only one that had the complete assembly including cams. I looked at complete engines and prices are outrageous! $1500 to $2000 for a ninja 400 used engine! I've sold Ducati and Aprilia engines for that much! Barely got $700 for a zx6r engine with only 5000 miles a few years ago. This is getting as bad as the housing market.
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
Just ordered a complete cylinder head assembly off ebay for $660. There were 6 available this morning, but this one was the only one that had the complete assembly including cams. I looked at complete engines and prices are outrageous! $1500 to $2000 for a ninja 400 used engine! I've sold Ducati and Aprilia engines for that much! Barely got $700 for a zx6r engine with only 5000 miles a few years ago. This is getting as bad as the housing market.
Good to hear you found what you needed!

Yeah, prices and lead times sucks for riders right now, but at least the dealers are doing well. Hopefully the supply chain catches up soon!
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Plastigauge came in the mail today. I installed the camshaft cap and upper chain guide per the service manual. This was done with the engine top end on the workbench. (Engine top end not mounted in the bike). @Rich T The service manual makes no mention of removing/adjusting the valves when checking camshaft journal clearance, so I think it will be fine.

Good news is that all of the gaps are in spec and all about equal. Right around 0.050mm gap.

18762



The bad news is the exhaust side camshaft cap center guide (not sure the proper name...circled in pink below) is extremely tight. When placing the camshaft in the cap (Just the cap, not seated in the engine), the center guide pinches the camshaft making if difficult to remove and puts up quite a bit of resistance when rotating the camshaft by hand. I assume this amount of friction is not correct, and is bad? I would like to confirm that this is not expected before attempting some very lightly sanding of the center guide.

The intake side camshaft rotates with very little resistance and does not get pinched in place by the camshaft cap center guide.

18763
 

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Plastigauge came in the mail today. I installed the camshaft cap and upper chain guide per the service manual. This was done with the engine top end on the workbench. (Engine top end not mounted in the bike). @Rich T The service manual makes no mention of removing/adjusting the valves when checking camshaft journal clearance, so I think it will be fine.

Good news is that all of the gaps are in spec and all about equal. Right around 0.050mm gap.

View attachment 18762


The bad news is the exhaust side camshaft cap center guide (not sure the proper name...circled in pink below) is extremely tight. When placing the camshaft in the cap (Just the cap, not seated in the engine), the center guide pinches the camshaft making if difficult to remove and puts up quite a bit of resistance when rotating the camshaft by hand. I assume this amount of friction is not correct, and is bad? I would like to confirm that this is not expected before attempting some very lightly sanding of the center guide.

The intake side camshaft rotates with very little resistance and does not get pinched in place by the camshaft cap center guide.

View attachment 18763
Did you put any grease and oil on it like the manual mentions? I did not have that problem with my own, but had the same issue with another cylinder head I was messing around with at work after I took the cams out and put them back in. It didn't seem to be caused by the part you highlighted, but just from the friction in the journals (I hadn't put any grease on it, so I figured that's why).
 

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I don't recall my cam doing what you mentioned, nor did I dry test fit out of the head. Can you be more specific by the term "pinched"? If it is laterally pinched (side to side) then I don't think that is right. But if the cam pinches or contacts the radial ends of the cap slot, then it should get additional clearance when the cap is mated/bolted to the cylinder head. I would assume doing so will give the additional clearance. What sbk1198 said, lube and test fit.

On a side note, anyone notice the hairline fracture on your cam cap in the mid section. Where the little bridge meets the pair valve ports. Clean it and if it rubs out, it's just carbon dirt.
 

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I don't recall my cam doing what you mentioned, nor did I dry test fit out of the head. Can you be more specific by the term "pinched"? If it is laterally pinched (side to side) then I don't think that is right. But if the cam pinches or contacts the radial ends of the cap slot, then it should get additional clearance when the cap is mated/bolted to the cylinder head. I would assume doing so will give the additional clearance. What sbk1198 said, lube and test fit.

On a side note, anyone notice the hairline fracture on your cam cap in the mid section. Where the little bridge meets the pair valve ports. Clean it and if it rubs out, it's just carbon dirt.
Good observation! That does look like a crack.
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
Did you put any grease and oil on it like the manual mentions? I did not have that problem with my own, but had the same issue with another cylinder head I was messing around with at work after I took the cams out and put them back in. It didn't seem to be caused by the part you highlighted, but just from the friction in the journals (I hadn't put any grease on it, so I figured that's why).
Re-lubed the camshaft for good measure and tried again. Sill a bit of resistance. I was expecting the part to turn freely.

I don't recall my cam doing what you mentioned, nor did I dry test fit out of the head. Can you be more specific by the term "pinched"? If it is laterally pinched (side to side) then I don't think that is right. But if the cam pinches or contacts the radial ends of the cap slot, then it should get additional clearance when the cap is mated/bolted to the cylinder head. I would assume doing so will give the additional clearance. What sbk1198 said, lube and test fit.
Correct, the part circled in pink is laterally pinching (side to side) the camshaft cap.

On a side note, anyone notice the hairline fracture on your cam cap in the mid section. Where the little bridge meets the pair valve ports. Clean it and if it rubs out, it's just carbon dirt.
D*mn. Good catch. Not really visible from the top, but yeah, the camshaft cap is definitely cracked in the mid section, too. Crack does not go 100% all the way through.
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Hey Tracy, thanks for checking in!

I am still waiting for those crush washers! The washers were originally on 1-2 week backorder and we are now up to 3 weeks and counting. I called Revzilla a few times and all they can say is that Kawasaki has the order, and should be shipping the parts to RevZilla soon...

...On an unrelated note, there might be a versys 650 in the garage...
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
Very Nice! I really like your red rear shock. It stands out nicely.

I literally just picked mine up yesterday and only have 43 miles on the OD. Loving it so far!

18991
 

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Mines an 18, bought it at the end of 19 new. Got a good deal cause it was a leftover. Before I had it a week I took a saw to that piece of the back fender that sticks down so far. If ya do it just right the cut is hidden by the tag. I like the graphics on yours
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
Thanks! I do miss the wind from the z400 (can't wait to get it running again!), but this bike does fit me better and is a much more comfortable seating position.

My wish list of mods is starting to grow: center stand, USB charger, garage door opener. Sawing the back fender is a good suggestion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
Just got the shipping notification from RevZilla that 5 of the 6 crush washers have been shipped. The 6th crush washer was never received from Kawasaki, so it's now on 1-2 week back order. :oops:

I thought that luck would dictate that all six washers would get shipped out as soon as I got a new bike. Sadly, that is not the case. Total wait time for the first five washers is going to be one month (assuming shipping only takes 2 days--unlike the o-rings which too almost two weeks). So there is a good chance that the sixth washer won't arrive until mid July(!) :eek:
 

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Just got the shipping notification from RevZilla that 5 of the 6 crush washers have been shipped. The 6th crush washer was never received from Kawasaki, so it's now on 1-2 week back order. :oops:

I thought that luck would dictate that all six washers would get shipped out as soon as I got a new bike. Sadly, that is not the case. Total wait time for the first five washers is going to be one month (assuming shipping only takes 2 days--unlike the o-rings which too almost two weeks). So there is a good chance that the sixth washer won't arrive until mid July(!) :eek:
Wow....
🐉
 

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Just got the shipping notification from RevZilla that 5 of the 6 crush washers have been shipped. The 6th crush washer was never received from Kawasaki, so it's now on 1-2 week back order. :oops:

I thought that luck would dictate that all six washers would get shipped out as soon as I got a new bike. Sadly, that is not the case. Total wait time for the first five washers is going to be one month (assuming shipping only takes 2 days--unlike the o-rings which too almost two weeks). So there is a good chance that the sixth washer won't arrive until mid July(!) :eek:
Crush washers for what? The head bolts? Just re-use the old ones. I re-used all of mine, and all the bolts. I'm not saying that's the right way to do it since it's obviously not what the service manual says, but it can work fine. And if you're already replacing 5 with new ones, re-using the 6th won't make a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
Crush washers for what? The head bolts? Just re-use the old ones. I re-used all of mine, and all the bolts. I'm not saying that's the right way to do it since it's obviously not what the service manual says, but it can work fine. And if you're already replacing 5 with new ones, re-using the 6th won't make a difference.

Yes, these are the washers for the head bolts (securing the engine top end to the cylinder). If you reuse the old ones without issue, then I'll wait until the 5 new ones come in and re-use one of the old ones. Thanks!
 
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