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As my Z400 was due for a change out of the break in oil, I decided to do the Barnett springs upgrade, new bearing and pull rod at the same time. I also went with the Motul 7100 synthetic to replace the dino oil.

What a night and day difference this has made. I can actually feel clutch engagement now which makes feathering the clutch for those slow takeoffs a breeze. I think it was Watcher who said that rev matching is better and yeah it's a joy now. Shifting is smooth and positive with no more missed shifts. Overall smoothness of the engine and tranny is subjective but it is there for sure. Don't be on the fence about doing these upgrades I highly recommend it.
 
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Discussion Starter #84
I've updated this article and our recommended parts package to account for the 2020 bikes which use an updated Pull Rod and corresponding thinner bearing to solve the interference issue. The rest of the issues still exist in the 2020 bikes.
 

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So would this fall into poor shifting or downshifting .

On sundays ride when I would down shift from 3rd to 2nd and then to 1st I would at times get this "--" signal blinking when I would have the clutch pulled in. In order for the gears to catch I would have to release the clutch about half ways out then engage the clutch again to down shift.

Is this normal? It was a bit frustrating to be honest.
 

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So would this fall into poor shifting or downshifting .

On sundays ride when I would down shift from 3rd to 2nd and then to 1st I would at times get this "--" signal blinking when I would have the clutch pulled in. In order for the gears to catch I would have to release the clutch about half ways out then engage the clutch again to down shift.

Is this normal? It was a bit frustrating to be honest.
Definitely the bike shifts better as soon as possible after disengaging drive or engine braking to the rear wheel and you still have some rpm's, so not at idle and not stationary. This isn't that uncommon and some bikes are more sensitive than others. If I'm doing something odd like coasting at idle while in gear with clutch in, it can make shifting hang up. Same for being stationary at idle trying to shift.
Definitely get shifting done while you've still got momentum and some rpm's to help it along.
 

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Hi Jesse Loving the product, actually I am so surprised a lot of the people who has a 2018-2019 model didn’t complain About clutch and when they did they put it down to there skill 😂 and kept buying oem clutch plates.
I’m glad Norton Motorsports did what they did at the right time as Kawasaki was not responding to my complaints and just kept replacing stock parts on warranty.
I ended up getting the race clutch fibre combination while I ordered the pull rod.
13203
 

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Hello everyone, so to solve my clutch issues, the rod and bearing I bought won't be enough? I'll have to spend the $400 ($350 + taxes and shipping) on the race clutch to ride a bike that has less than 1,000 miles on it? Absolutely insane. This will definitely be the last Kawasaki I'll ever buy. Never regretted a purchase more in my life.
 

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Hello everyone, so to solve my clutch issues, the rod and bearing I bought won't be enough? I'll have to spend the $400 ($350 + taxes and shipping) on the race clutch to ride a bike that has less than 1,000 miles on it? Absolutely insane. This will definitely be the last Kawasaki I'll ever buy. Never regretted a purchase more in my life.
No. Read the article.
 

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Hello everyone, so to solve my clutch issues, the rod and bearing I bought won't be enough? I'll have to spend the $400 ($350 + taxes and shipping) on the race clutch to ride a bike that has less than 1,000 miles on it? Absolutely insane. This will definitely be the last Kawasaki I'll ever buy. Never regretted a purchase more in my life.
Yep, it sucks to buy something new and have to put time and money into it so soon to fix it. Fortunately for me, I like to tinker with mechanical stuff and the clutch was fairly easy on the difficulty scale, unlike a Toyota V6 timing belt water pump replacement. FWIW, I spent $79 for a complete set of Barnett friction plates including tax and shipping. Purchased on Ebay from "powersportsuperstore". Again, super easy install. And btw, I didn't need the gasket.
 

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No. Read the article.
Okay, well it's still $150 plus either a few days of my time (since I'm no mechanic and this will likely be a difficult job for me) or $300-$400 in labor charges. It's amazing the motorcycle manufacturers aren't required to issue recalls for things like this. The consumer shouldn't have to spend hundreds of dollars to immediately rectify design flaws. If this were any other product, like a computer, I could return it for a full refund.
 

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Yep, it sucks to buy something new and have to put time and money into it so soon to fix it. Fortunately for me, I like to tinker with mechanical stuff and the clutch was fairly easy on the difficulty scale, unlike a Toyota V6 timing belt water pump replacement. FWIW, I spent $79 for a complete set of Barnett friction plates including tax and shipping. Purchased on Ebay from "powersportsuperstore". Again, super easy install. And btw, I didn't need the gasket.
Thanks for the ebay tip, Mark. Unfortunately I don't enjoy tinkering as much as you, which is why I bought a new bike instead of saving some money and just picking up something used. Had I known that the clutch on this thing is a nightmare right from the factory, I never would have bought this thing.
 

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Thanks for the ebay tip, Mark. Unfortunately I don't enjoy tinkering as much as you, which is why I bought a new bike instead of saving some money and just picking up something used. Had I known that the clutch on this thing is a nightmare right from the factory, I never would have bought this thing.
I"m going to spend 600-700 in parts and labor to fix the sloppy gear shifting with 1200 miles in the clock. I have been stuck in gear and unable to shift on several occasions so I'm having Kawasaki replace the shift change shaft, springs, and upgrading the rod and bearing.

The bike is still under warranty and the dealership wanted to look at it to see if Kawasaki would cover anything. I told them to report anything they find to Kawasaki while doing the work and see if Kawasaki will cover some of the labor cost.
 

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An once of prevention is worth a pound of cure; or however that saying goes?
With 'bout 1,200 mi on the bike, I dun bought stiffer springs fer $30 bucks, 'n my clutch works great. (y)
 

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Thanks for the ebay tip, Mark. Unfortunately I don't enjoy tinkering as much as you, which is why I bought a new bike instead of saving some money and just picking up something used. Had I known that the clutch on this thing is a nightmare right from the factory, I never would have bought this thing.
I hear ya. My suggestion: Be sure clutch has been accurately adjusted before throwing money at clutch. It was well worth my time to digest some clutch adjustment videos, throw the bike up on a stand and learn how to adjust the clutch. My thoughts: Unless you’re popping the clutch for “hole shots“ and wheelies, you should be able to get well over 3,000 miles on a properly adjusted stock clutch.
 
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I hear ya. My suggestion: Be sure clutch has been accurately adjusted before throwing money at clutch. It was well worth my time to digest some clutch adjustment videos, throw the bike up on a stand and learn how to adjust the clutch. My thoughts: Unless you’re popping the clutch for “hole shots“ and wheelies, you should be able to get well over 3,000 miles on a properly adjusted stock clutch.
In the hour that I bought my Z400, the mechanic was explaining the machine's features. I mentioned to him that the clutch was engaging way to far out, knowing it would slip much to easily out there. He told me its at specification. The second I got it home I adjusted the clutch to engage closer to the grip.
I've always adjusted my motorcycles clutch and have never worn out any of them out. But for a precaution I installed Spears clutch springs all by myself, hey, I'm proud of myself, lol.
 

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Okay, well it's still $150 plus either a few days of my time (since I'm no mechanic and this will likely be a difficult job for me) or $300-$400 in labor charges. It's amazing the motorcycle manufacturers aren't required to issue recalls for things like this. The consumer shouldn't have to spend hundreds of dollars to immediately rectify design flaws. If this were any other product, like a computer, I could return it for a full refund.
Heck no. Where are you getting these silly prices??
It shouldn't be more than $80 NZD for the new bearing and pull rod. Nothing else needs changing.

I agree Kawasaki should be fixing it at their expense. If you complain to the dealer they may do it free of charge. Depending on how you use the clutch, and if it's adjusted at the lever properly, you might not experience a problem for years even if you leave it untouched.
 

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Heck no. Where are you getting these silly prices??
It shouldn't be more than $80 NZD for the new bearing and pull rod. Nothing else needs changing.

I agree Kawasaki should be fixing it at their expense. If you complain to the dealer they may do it free of charge. Depending on how you use the clutch, and if it's adjusted at the lever properly, you might not experience a problem for years even if you leave it untouched.
Mine is slipping quite badly and I'm not even getting on it that much. The article said that a badly slipping clutch you should replace friction plates, clutch springs kit, cable spring kit and the rod and bearing. I'll try adjusting the clutch lever engagement but the engagement feels fine to me.
 
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Discussion Starter #100
Mine is slipping quite badly and I'm not even getting on it that much. The article said that a badly slipping clutch you should replace friction plates, clutch springs kit, cable spring kit and the rod and bearing. I'll try adjusting the clutch lever engagement but the engagement feels fine to me.
That's correct, you'll want to replace the parts you mentioned. It's possible you can get a little more life out of those plates by doing the springs, cable spring, and rod/bearing since the rod and bearing extends life a bit.
 
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