Ninja 400 Riders Forum banner

21 - 40 of 83 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
what new part?
The Clutch pull rod. Spears racing now sells one also. I think the Spears one is actually machined from billet and is not just a modified OEM one like norton sells. Also includes a pull rod bearing and the norton one does not. Both are the same price.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
I'm a Spears Racing dealer..I have all the trans goodies installed on all my builds...as far as the 20 bike..to know if the OE parts are different,we would have to remove each part and measure it against the 18 & 19 parts..IMO I don't think there will be much differences in the new bike besides color....we will have to wait to hear from the 20 owners that have put some hard canyon/track riding to see if there's any difference...I did go see how clutch cable feel was on the 20 bike...same as my 19





The Clutch pull rod. Spears racing now sells one also. I think the Spears one is actually machined from billet and is not just a modified OEM one like norton sells. Also includes a pull rod bearing and the norton one does not. Both are the same price.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
197 Posts
Spears Racing sells a complete trans kit with better springs..I would advise getting new friction plates while you have case cover off







Are the heavy duty springs pretty straightforward / simple to install? I've done the return spring already, I've only had a couple times where the clutch would slip during fast acceleration in higher gears. Might do this at the start of the season and see how it goes.
 
Joined
·
154 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Has anyone tried installing the 2020 part on a 2018/2019 Ninja 400?
We had one of our sponsored riders inspect a 2020 Pull Rod from a 2020 Ninja 400 and it was still the same as the 18-19. So no update yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
139 Posts
I've just installed the heavier clutch springs and adjusted pull rod from Norton. Fairly straight forward. I've never taken an engine cover off before, but it went fine. A handy vid on youtube linked below, although I did take off the fairing and clutch cable, unlike in the video.
I didn't have any clutch issues and the bike has only done 1,200km. I just figured I'd take some preventative measures rather than wait for a problem that seemed likely to happen. My 1991 Honda MC22 has done 124,000km and still fine on the original clutch after lots of thrashing, so I'd like to give the Ninja the best chance at competing.

I can confirm you don't need to drain the oil.

The pull rod is just floating behind the steel plate next in line after removing the clutch springs. The pull rod pops out with the bearing, transfer some grease to the new pull rod and drop in.

I was surprised to see no visible gasket for the clutch cover. Looking closer there are some slight traces of some sealant, but it's barely noticeable. I didn't add any sealant or clean the surfaces on reinstall. After returning from a short spin I felt a very minor oil film at the bottom of the clutch cover. Cleaning it up and going for another spin didn't result in any more oil, so I figure this was just oil that was still on the surfaces when I replaced the cover. Here's hoping.

Anyway, clutch feels good. I like the thought of getting full wear out of it with the new pull rod and warding off any potential slippage with the tougher springs.






Original on the left.


 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
139 Posts
Good pics and info, cheers. What did those parts cost landed in NZD please?
All up $335.59 USD for Woodcraft clip ons, clutch springs, pull rod and I threw in their clutch cable spring too. No GST incurred.

So basically their website prices + $60USD postage (man US get it sweet with free domestic postage). I requested they price match Spears postage to which they said they could if they removed the clip ons from packaging to fit into smaller bag, thus this is cheaper than the default postage listed on their website.
On the plus side I paid on 30/1 and received it all yesterday 3/2. Prob the fastest international shipping I've ever had.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,732 Posts
All up $335.59 USD for Woodcraft clip ons, clutch springs, pull rod and I threw in their clutch cable spring too. No GST incurred.

So basically their website prices + $60USD postage (man US get it sweet with free domestic postage). I requested they price match Spears postage to which they said they could if they removed the clip ons from packaging to fit into smaller bag, thus this is cheaper than the default postage listed on their website.
On the plus side I paid on 30/1 and received it all yesterday 3/2. Prob the fastest international shipping I've ever had.
Yeah that is quick. This is after the event (of course!) but if you sign up to NZ post 'You shop" service you can get stuff cheaper from the states through their collection warehouse in Portland, Oregon. It takes longer but worth it esp if you tick the economy 9-14 day option. $9.00 per parcel up to 500g and $3.50 for every 500g over that.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,015 Posts
Yeah that is quick. This is after the event (of course!) but if you sign up to NZ post 'You shop" service you can get stuff cheaper from the states through their collection warehouse in Portland, Oregon. It takes longer but worth it esp if you tick the economy 9-14 day option. $9.00 per parcel up to 500g and $3.50 for every 500g over that.

And for $800, I will hand deliver it to you, as long as it will fit in checked luggage :grin:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
448 Posts
I am nearing 12,000 km's. Latley I am starting to have a bit of a problem shifting to 1st from neutral. Not all the time, but when I shift to 1st while standstill it doesnt give me the firm "click" we all know and love but kind of clatter in the teeth. Any ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
247 Posts
I've just installed the heavier clutch springs and adjusted pull rod from Norton. Fairly straight forward. I've never taken an engine cover off before, but it went fine. A handy vid on youtube linked below, although I did take off the fairing and clutch cable, unlike in the video.
I didn't have any clutch issues and the bike has only done 1,200km. I just figured I'd take some preventative measures rather than wait for a problem that seemed likely to happen. My 1991 Honda MC22 has done 124,000km and still fine on the original clutch after lots of thrashing, so I'd like to give the Ninja the best chance at competing.

I can confirm you don't need to drain the oil.

The pull rod is just floating behind the steel plate next in line after removing the clutch springs. The pull rod pops out with the bearing, transfer some grease to the new pull rod and drop in.

I was surprised to see no visible gasket for the clutch cover. Looking closer there are some slight traces of some sealant, but it's barely noticeable. I didn't add any sealant or clean the surfaces on reinstall. After returning from a short spin I felt a very minor oil film at the bottom of the clutch cover. Cleaning it up and going for another spin didn't result in any more oil, so I figure this was just oil that was still on the surfaces when I replaced the cover. Here's hoping.

Anyway, clutch feels good. I like the thought of getting full wear out of it with the new pull rod and warding off any potential slippage with the tougher springs.






Original on the left.


https://youtu.be/kx1IyNYZFuM
Your gasket stuck to the case. It’s still there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
247 Posts
A clear, extremely sparing, liquid gasket I suppose.



Can confirm no leaks after further riding, so that's good.
You can see some dimpling on it around the mounting holes in the pics above. It’s graphite as yarddog says. Mine came off with the cover and got a bit crinkled while I was maneuvering it on & off, so I was glad I had a ordered a replacement - yours stayed on the case and looks to have stayed in good shape (not leaking is also a good sign of that). :cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
690 Posts
i had a small spot on my gasket that had some damage. i used some graphite paste from work to help keep a good seal in that spot. we use it to help lubricate injectors during installation, but it seemed to do fine for me, or it would not have leaked anyway. who knows. it dos not leak so whatever...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
139 Posts
I am nearing 12,000 km's. Latley I am starting to have a bit of a problem shifting to 1st from neutral. Not all the time, but when I shift to 1st while standstill it doesnt give me the firm "click" we all know and love but kind of clatter in the teeth. Any ideas?
I had the same problem of shifting from neutral into 1st after shifting to gp shift on the stock rearsets. I'd have to roll the bike back for it to click through. If you google it, it's not uncommon and people seem to accept it. I got caught a few times at the lights needing to rock the bike and wasn't too impressed. I took to holding the clutch in rather than risk it.

I just installed some rearsets which has made the issue disappear, for now at least. The rearsets themselves obviously can't change the gearbox, but they caused me to set up a different angle of attack on the shift shaft which must have affected things.

So some messing with your shifter might sort your issue.
1. Sliding the gear shaft bracket closer toward the engine/further from the engine. There is a fair bit of horizontal play there in the bracket. Mine is now at the furthest point away from the engine.
2. Experiment with rotating the bracket onto different gear shaft splines and compensate for the change in pedal height by adjusting the shift rod. Even if it doesn't seem to have changed shifting while turned off on a paddock stand, try again with the motor running as it can behave differently.

The theoretical ideal is to have your shift rod at right angles to the gear shaft bracket, and making sure those little joints that allow some movement in the shift rod are free and not bound up to one side or the other. In saying that, my shifting improved when I went to more of a 120 degree angle. Funnily it was at the ideal 90 degree angle with the stock rear sets when I had the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
448 Posts
I had the same problem of shifting from neutral into 1st after shifting to gp shift on the stock rearsets. I'd have to roll the bike back for it to click through. If you google it, it's not uncommon and people seem to accept it. I got caught a few times at the lights needing to rock the bike and wasn't too impressed. I took to holding the clutch in rather than risk it.

I just installed some rearsets which has made the issue disappear, for now at least. The rearsets themselves obviously can't change the gearbox, but they caused me to set up a different angle of attack on the shift shaft which must have affected things.

So some messing with your shifter might sort your issue.
1. Sliding the gear shaft bracket closer toward the engine/further from the engine. There is a fair bit of horizontal play there in the bracket. Mine is now at the furthest point away from the engine.
2. Experiment with rotating the bracket onto different gear shaft splines and compensate for the change in pedal height by adjusting the shift rod. Even if it doesn't seem to have changed shifting while turned off on a paddock stand, try again with the motor running as it can behave differently.

The theoretical ideal is to have your shift rod at right angles to the gear shaft bracket, and making sure those little joints that allow some movement in the shift rod are free and not bound up to one side or the other. In saying that, my shifting improved when I went to more of a 120 degree angle. Funnily it was at the ideal 90 degree angle with the stock rear sets when I had the problem.
I know the situation that you described, it's not it. The gear does go into 1st, however in the way I feel like some mess is going between the teeth before it, like it's doing half the drop, goes back, and only then again I press it with my leg and it drops down. It's an instant. Hard to describe it...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
615 Posts
Muchacho,

I'm at @ 5000 km haven't experienced this before. I would look at the service manual, in the transmission section, it will tell you to check the transmission parts such as the clutch pack thickness specs, shift shaft, springs etc. Check the condition of the small return spring of the shift shaft paw, and the gear position lever spring, they may have fatigued. If components are in spec and look good, then at the very least get the Norton heavy duty gear position lever spring.

I'll be installing all the Norton transmission fixes sans transmission udercutting come spring time because the occasional false neutrals from 1st to 2nd or 5th to 6th.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
1,015 Posts
I am nearing 12,000 km's. Latley I am starting to have a bit of a problem shifting to 1st from neutral. Not all the time, but when I shift to 1st while standstill it doesnt give me the firm "click" we all know and love but kind of clatter in the teeth. Any ideas?
For me, adjusting the clutch cable is the cure. Start at the hand lever, finish at the clutch arm.
 
21 - 40 of 83 Posts
Top