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Discussion Starter #61
Looks much better. Best bet is to measure with caliper or see if your can stick 3-4 credit cards in the space at the lever. Also if you have trouble shifting just tighten the cable at the perch, 1/2 turn at a time should do it. Do you think your previous adjustment was to tight?
so much tighter. i'm about to go test it out and if it shifts good i'm going to go take it for a wash :)
 

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Your clutch is still probably fried, hopefully not, but at least we know the cause now and you can properly repair if needed. Have fun!
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Your clutch is still probably fried, hopefully not, but at least we know the cause now and you can properly repair if needed. Have fun!
it actually shifts REALLY nice, i ran to petco messing with the gears and i think the only problem i see is that it starts to slip during the higher gears (assuming that the 4 and 5 plate is burnt or close to being burnt) other than that i love the way it shifts, no problems, no false neutrals, NONE of it!!!
 

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Awesome! Id order new plates now, take it easy and dont go on any long trips. Once the plates start to slip they are done, you will eventually be left stranded.
 

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so is your clutch freeplay on that bigger than usual? i see how quick it bites into gear
There is not a lot of free play. When the clutch lever is pull in, the clutch is 100% disengaged. There is a middle point where I could adjust it to engage but for my preference, I prefer it to start grabbing a little earlier than others might. Also by setting it to engage earlier, I know the clutch springs are at 100% pressure. Of course this is all my amateur opinion but just sharing what works for me.
 

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There is not a lot of free play. When the clutch lever is pull in, the clutch is 100% disengaged. There is a middle point where I could adjust it to engage but for my preference, I prefer it to start grabbing a little earlier than others might. Also by setting it to engage earlier, I know the clutch springs are at 100% pressure. Of course this is all my amateur opinion but just sharing what works for me.
Just checked mine because I knew it engaged a bit sooner than it shows in the video. Allowing for the thickness of the puppy grips I added it starts to bite at about an inch or so from the grip. This after installing Barnett springs and actually tightening up the free play at the lever from where it was adjusted with stock springs.

Hafta go with Flash on this one. 👍
 

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Have any of you guys had a similar issue? What fixed it for you guys? Any specific parts you guys have bought? Do you guys recommend the route I'm planning to take? If not, let me know what you disagree with and I will come to a consensus of what I will do and will update this thread.

I really miss riding and I really want to get back into it. Thank you.
I have had this problem. It burned out on me in the worst spots. I was on the freeway both times and it sucked. Turns out this has happened to a lot of people I found out. I have a Z400, and love it to pieces. This was a major bummer.

The first time it happened I had OEM plates put back in, the second time, about 24 hours later, I was pissed. I was also mad that the dealership told me all was normal when I mentioned the slipping, so I went to another mechanic. Anyway, second round he put aftermarket plates in and so far, about 6000 miles later and no problems.

All the advice here seems to be solid. Clutch freeplay super important I discovered and my mechanic drilled it into me.
 

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Yep, this is my free play.........


Since these gears are cut and hardened and could be shifted without clutching, clutch is really used for stop and go.....but I still use it all the time. So this is my free-play.

Also since the bike has no return spring, the lever is so light and the pull rod is so long it feels like even a strong head wind at 115 mph would slightly engage the clutch lever.

I bought the bike with 378 miles on it, rode it from Atlanta to TN, about 200 miles home the day I bought it. I was outside ATL on i-75 running about 6-7k RPM's (oh noes.........what about break-in?!?!?) and accelerated to pass someone and about 7,500-8,000 RPM's the RPM's jumped suddenly........and from riding bikes for many years I was like......what in the world? That surely was not a clutch slipping at this mileage?!?! So I did it again and yep.........slippage. While running 70-75 mph on the i-75 I adjusted the slack at the lever so I could wiggle the cable, like in this video. Ran the RPM's up again........no slippage..........slowed a bit, shifted down to 5th, did the same ripping closer to redline and no slippage.

I replaced the clutch plates and springs, and added the return spring from Spears at about 2500 miles and my friction plates still looked really good, but I replaced them anyway for much beefier plates.
I have since also done the clutch pull rod from a 2020 and replaced the bearing while I was in there....I have 7500 miles on it now. Did a track day at NCM.
 

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Wait a minute. You rode a 400 through Atlanta on I-75? 🐉
Yes sir....and it did suck....first encounter with that seat too all those miles, and that was no fun.

What was even better was I got 10 miles from the house(which was where I get off the interstate onto the fun back roads) and it decided to start pouring down rain hard and buckets.......nothing at all prior to this.....thankfully I saw the blackest skyline and changed into my rain gear at a exit up from mine, before it started :)
 

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This was pulled from an old reddit thread that i started a couple months ago. A little update to what's going on now.


TLDR: I'm frustrated on what keeps burning my clutch out so quickly (especially with such low mileage) and i'm looking to buy " Barnett Heavy Duty Clutch Friction Plates" AND "OEM 2020+ Kawasaki Clutch Pull Rod and Bearing Update – Kawasaki Ninja 400 / Z400" by Norton Motorsports. I already have the Heavy Duty Barnett Clutch Springs so according to this article in order to complete the clutch burning out and slipping whenever i ride and accelerate, I should buy those two parts.

https://www.norton-motorsports.com/product/oem-2020-kawasaki-clutch-pull-rod-and-bearing-update-kawasaki-ninja-400-z400/
Barnett Heavy Duty Clutch Friction Plates - Kawasaki Ninja 400 - Norton Motorsports

Have any of you guys had a similar issue? What fixed it for you guys? Any specific parts you guys have bought? Do you guys recommend the route I'm planning to take? If not, let me know what you disagree with and I will come to a consensus of what I will do and will update this thread.

I really miss riding and I really want to get back into it. Thank you.
the 1st oil you use, did it have MA or MA2 On it?
 

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Am I the only one who just goes by the manual and set the gap 2-3mm? No issues whatsoever. 12500 km's
What? You actually took the time to read an owner's manual? We don't need no stinking owner's manual. We'll eventually get it sorted out without going to all the trouble of actually reading. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #80
I have had this problem. It burned out on me in the worst spots. I was on the freeway both times and it sucked. Turns out this has happened to a lot of people I found out. I have a Z400, and love it to pieces. This was a major bummer.

The first time it happened I had OEM plates put back in, the second time, about 24 hours later, I was pissed. I was also mad that the dealership told me all was normal when I mentioned the slipping, so I went to another mechanic. Anyway, second round he put aftermarket plates in and so far, about 6000 miles later and no problems.

All the advice here seems to be solid. Clutch freeplay super important I discovered and my mechanic drilled it into me.
about how much freeplay do you have on your bike at the moment? since we have similar problems i wanna kinda match the amount of freeplay i have with yours if thats okay haha
 
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