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Where does the aftermarket spring we've talked about comes into play :grin:?
See that whole clutch basket assembly on page 6-12, has to be removed to expose the detent spring.
 

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Is there anyone on here that has done a clutch upgrade? I'm currently looking doing mine up because I ride way too hard for the stock clutch to handle. I'm looking for noteworthy brands etc to buy from, any suggestions would be much appreciated.
 

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Is there anyone on here that has done a clutch upgrade? I'm currently looking doing mine up because I ride way too hard for the stock clutch to handle. I'm looking for noteworthy brands etc to buy from, any suggestions would be much appreciated.
You would hope or like to think that Kawasaki have factored in a certain amount of over-engineering into the clutch design to allow for the track riders and racers.
I'd just keep riding it hard till you notice any signs of wear. It should handle it?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
One of our forum vendors, Spears Racing Enterprises has a kit.
 

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Need help please. Picked up my 400 after taking it in for my first maintenance at my local Kawasaki dealer and all is well except. (Hip hip hooray 600 mile club.)
Being new, I still do a lot of slow speed maneuvers practicing and realized how different my clutch feels.

Before taking it in, I had almost the whole clutch to work with and it really helped my control & feel. ( I could weave around cones, pull in clutch to slow down toward a stop, release gradually to regain a little speed)

After taking it in, now the first 50% (wild estimate) of the clutch does nothing and now I have this tiny clutch play area and it's so much harder to control my slow speed. ( Now its like clutch control on double shot of caffeine...and even if I pull the clutch in all the way it still moves at a good rate of speed, where before it slowly brought it all the way to a stop ) I have little play on releasing the clutch as well and stalled a few times where before i would of still been in the friction point.

Honestly while moving it feels quicker to clutch and shift smoother, yet doing slow speed now super difficult compared to before as its hard to control my speed.
I'm sorry for being such a noob, but does that mean I have too much clutch play or too little? For comfort I just wish it was like it was before taking it to dealership.
 

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Need help please. Picked up my 400 after taking it in for my first maintenance at my local Kawasaki dealer and all is well except. (Hip hip hooray 600 mile club.)
Being new, I still do a lot of slow speed maneuvers practicing and realized how different my clutch feels.

Before taking it in, I had almost the whole clutch to work with and it really helped my control & feel. ( I could weave around cones, pull in clutch to slow down toward a stop, release gradually to regain a little speed)

After taking it in, now the first 50% (wild estimate) of the clutch does nothing and now I have this tiny clutch play area and it's so much harder to control my slow speed. ( Now its like clutch control on double shot of caffeine...and even if I pull the clutch in all the way it still moves at a good rate of speed, where before it slowly brought it all the way to a stop ) I have little play on releasing the clutch as well and stalled a few times where before i would of still been in the friction point.

Honestly while moving it feels quicker to clutch and shift smoother, yet doing slow speed now super difficult compared to before as its hard to control my speed.
I'm sorry for being such a noob, but does that mean I have too much clutch play or too little? For comfort I just wish it was like it was before taking it to dealership.

The clutch lever should have a really bare minimum of freeplay. See the point in yellow, and take it as refrence, this point should move a bit. And that's how adjusted the clutch should be. Too more, or too little, you'll burn it out eventually.


https://prnt.sc/lnqpvm


You'll get used to it.
 

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I'm sorry my wording might not be correct, maybe it's not free play of the clutch which I'm regarding.
Maybe its how much of the clutch actuates/works... before taking to dealership, it seemed like the whole clutch lever engaged and the friction zone was this super large area in the middle area of it. I actually had to let the clutch lever out a pretty good amount of distance before it engaged.

After dealership, now it seems like I only have a fraction of the area where the clutch engages (pretty close to handle bars) and now I barely release the clutch lever for it to engage. Now friction zone is much smaller as well.

Is their a way to change this back? Maybe it's me and i'm overthinking it and like you said I just have to get used to it, but it honestly made the feel of my bike at slow speed really different.
 

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I'm sorry my wording might not be correct, maybe it's not free play of the clutch which I'm regarding.
Maybe its how much of the clutch actuates/works... before taking to dealership, it seemed like the whole clutch lever engaged and the friction zone was this super large area in the middle area of it. I actually had to let the clutch lever out a pretty good amount of distance before it engaged.

After dealership, now it seems like I only have a fraction of the area where the clutch engages (pretty close to handle bars) and now I barely release the clutch lever for it to engage. Now friction zone is much smaller as well.

Is their a way to change this back? Maybe it's me and i'm overthinking it and like you said I just have to get used to it, but it honestly made the feel of my bike at slow speed really different.
It sounds to me like they have adjusted your clutch incorrectly and you now have too much free play in the cable. This is why it is not disengaging the clutch plates until the lever is all the way into the bars and you only have to release it a little bit before they engage quickly again.
Its just a matter of screwing the adjuster out from the clutch perch a few turns. There's a lock nut you have to release first though.
Best thing you can do is have a read of the appropriate page in your owners manual. It's page 118 in my book but yours may be different as I'm a Southener. Pictures tell a thousand words and all that.
 

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It sounds to me like they have adjusted your clutch incorrectly and you now have too much free play in the cable. This is why it is not disengaging the clutch plates until the lever is all the way into the bars and you only have to release it a little bit before they engage quickly again.
Its just a matter of screwing the adjuster out from the clutch perch a few turns. There's a lock nut you have to release first though.
Best thing you can do is have a read of the appropriate page in your owners manual. It's page 118 in my book but yours may be different as I'm a Southener. Pictures tell a thousand words and all that.
Yeah they probably did this to avoid earlier on slippage and avoid warranty clutch repairs :)
 

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Thanks, I played with the nut/perch screw next to the clutch lever found the sweet spot again. Turning it to the right made it worst I would barely release the clutch and it stalled right away, so I turned it to the left like 3-4 full turns and now I can release the clutch out a good inch or so again before it starts engaging.

Simply fixes, but I guess I was just really hesitant to touch anything to make it worst.
 

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Thanks, I played with the nut/perch screw next to the clutch lever found the sweet spot again. Turning it to the right made it worst I would barely release the clutch and it stalled right away, so I turned it to the left like 3-4 full turns and now I can release the clutch out a good inch or so again before it starts engaging.

Simply fixes, but I guess I was just really hesitant to touch anything to make it worst.
Good result, I knew you'd sort it.
You cant do any damage by having too much free play but you can by not having enough, which is probably why the dealer err'd on the side of caution and gave you more free play. Esp given the reputation of the N400 clutch, as bOXcrash eluded too in his post.
 

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It could be worth takin g it back to dealers clutch that's starting to slip could show these symptoms

when lever is coming almost to bar, before engaging
if it was my bike I would have it back to dealer
 

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View attachment 2903
are you able to tell me what the two pieces under the pull up clutch lever bar that are? the two labeled GR and EO? My lever at the bottom moves like it isnt catching the piece labeled M
 

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What year is your bike? Those two parts shouldn't have anything to do with your symptom. Is the clutch slipping?
its a 2019
i dont think its slipping (not 100 percent on what that means yet but i burned out the clutch doing burnouts and so i replaced it. but now i cant get the clutch cable to tighten its like its stretched out. either that or the centerpiece in the clutch that gets pulled by (M) is messed up. (should that centerpiece be sturdy or is it supposed to have some wiggle room my piece wiggles.
12985
12984
 

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its a 2019
i dont think its slipping (not 100 percent on what that means yet but i burned out the clutch doing burnouts and so i replaced it. but now i cant get the clutch cable to tighten its like its stretched out. either that or the centerpiece in the clutch that gets pulled by (M) is messed up. (should that centerpiece be sturdy or is it supposed to have some wiggle room my piece wiggles. View attachment 12985 View attachment 12984
And you seriously need that third clutch spring bolt.
 

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And you seriously need that third clutch spring bolt.
True that!

When you say the lever is loose do you mean it's not rotating rod M?

The other M is called the pull rod and no it shouldn't wiggle around. Hard to say what's going on with your clutch without a hands on. It could be a couple of things. The pull rod bearing could be shot or you simply messed up somewhere else on the re-assembly along the way. Take it to a dealer.
 

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yes its either not connecting to rod m or rod m isnt pulling it out for it to engage. i want to learn to fix it my self plus dealers are gonna have long wait times
 
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