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For those of you having issues with bodywork getting hit. If you just need a little bit of clearance, stick a bit of aluminum on the stops with 3M tape. If you need more, some companies sell aftermarket steering stops. I bought the Graves, it requires you drill a hole in the stock stop. Others make ones you don’t need to drill holes. If it is a commuter bike, make sure you don’t need a ton of steering lock to lock, if you ride a lot with the bike on the steering stops, this mod ain’t for you.
 

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I installed a set of Amazon clip ons. They sit 6mm lower than stock. Although the degree in drop is more than stock, I don't have a measurement for it, but the bar ends sit around 12-15mm lower. They came pre-drilled which saved me some time trying to measure and drill holes for the controls. The only slight problem I see is that the clamps don't sit flush with the fork tubes. There is a 5mm space left over, but there is still plenty of clamping room that was used. Install was easy and since the drop wasn't much, there are no clearance issues with the body. I used a ton of blue thread lock so nothing falls apart while I'm riding. Now I'm just waiting on my weighted bar ends and grips to arrive so I can install them. I haven't gone on a ride yet with them, so I'm not knowledged on the vibrations yet, but they feel really good. Slight more aggressive stance compared to stock.
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Discussion Starter #83
I installed a set of Amazon clip ons.... The only slight problem I see is that the clamps don't sit flush with the fork tubes. There is a 5mm space left over, but there is still plenty of clamping room that was used.
I had the same issue with the Vortex clip ons. To get around this you move the forks up in the triple clamps until you have 5mm more fork tube sticking out of the top yoke. Then move the clip ons down until they sit flush with the top of the fork caps.
This job is best done with the front wheel out and the front of the bike supported by a front stand that lifts from under the steering stem. Then you can adjust each fork individually in an unloaded and controlled manner.
Alternatively you can do it in a more precarious manner by just backing off the triple clamp bolts slowly and carefully until the forks JUST start to slide when you tap the top yoke with a rubber hammer. But if they slide too far it's a $hit of a job to get them back up again, esp by yourself. Don't ask how I know! :LOL:
 

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I had the same issue with the Vortex clip ons. To get around this you move the forks up in the triple clamps until you have 5mm more fork tube sticking out of the top yoke. Then move the clip ons down until they sit flush with the top of the fork caps.
This job is best done with the front wheel out and the front of the bike supported by a front stand that lifts from under the steering stem. Then you can adjust each fork individually in an unloaded and controlled manner.
Alternatively you can do it in a more precarious manner by just backing off the triple clamp bolts slowly and carefully until the forks JUST start to slide when you tap the top yoke with a rubber hammer. But if they slide too far it's a $hit of a job to get them back up again, esp by yourself. Don't ask how I know! :LOL:
I've gotten a lot of feedback saying the same thing about moving the tubes up more. Thing is, my front stand lifts from the forks and not the stem :confused:. I'm currently in the process of trying to figure out a method to lower the front that won't give me the issue of the forks completely shooting up lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #85
I've gotten a lot of feedback saying the same thing about moving the tubes up more. Thing is, my front stand lifts from the forks and not the stem :confused:. I'm currently in the process of trying to figure out a method to lower the front that won't give me the issue of the forks completely shooting up lol.
If your going to continue working on your bike it's probably worth investing in a stem lift stand and then you've got it. Mines only a cheap chinese one and cost like $50USD ish.
The other method I outlined is Ok as long as you dont back the 2nd clamp bolt off too quickly.
 

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So I installed woodcraft clip ons to the 400 last weekend. Install went well, not too hard, just time consuming as it was the first time I took this stuff apart. I had the bars about 15-20 degrees further out than stock, and the risers having about a half an inch gap between the top of the clamp and the bottom of the triple. Much better positioning. Then I installed ASV levers..... bye bye great positioning... the point where the lever spring is, sticks much further out than the stock levers where that spring doesn’t exist. So when I swapped them they contacted the body work so I had to readjust the bars and I lost so much space. I had to move the cla back up to touching the triple and the angle is back to stock.

Not sure if I’ll be keeping the ASVs or not. Anyone else run into this issue with some adjustable levers but have a fix with other levers?

where it’s contacting is on the black plastic body work that goes up to a point by the windscreen. Not sure if you can buy an aftermarket piece there that will eliminate that bump where the contact is being had.

I can get pictures up in a day or so if anyone is confused about the places and parts I’m discussing.

Other than that issue, loving the clip ons and the levers!
 

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I just installed my Woodcraft clip ons and they're perfect. Drastic improvement over stock. At full lock my ASV levers come close to contacting the plastic shroud, but just barely clear. About to upgrade to a Magura HC1 and wondering if that will clear?
 

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HC1 just cleared for me; had to cut for the HC3.
 

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Won’t know until you try it.
 

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I can’t locate the stock MC right now, maybe some pics of the HC1 will help. The firs pics are with the lever adjustment all the way out, and the last two are 5 clicks in.
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I can’t locate the stock MC right now, maybe some pics of the HC1 will help. The firs pics are with the lever adjustment all the way out, and the last two are 5 clicks in
Thanks for this! Just did a rough measurement based on what you posted and I think this is JUST going to clear. Only contact will be at full lock if anything when I have to use the steering lock. Normal day to day should not pose a problem I'd imagine.

Also, how far is 5 clicks in? Were there a lot to go? I have small hands so I wouldnt be surprised if I set it there or even closer. Just wanted a rough idea before I commit. Thanks!
 

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There are 11 clicks total.
Were you able to fit the stock brake line onto the HC1 without clearance issues? Trying to figure out if I need to do stainless lines just to get the clearance I need? Really hoping I can retain stock lines as I dont want to do all that work to install lol.
 

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I installed the stainless lines at the same time as the HC1, so I can’t help with that one.
 

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Anyone seen these Evol Technologies Clip ons? Have had my Woodcrafts for about 2 months now and I love them, but will be adjusting my fork tubes in the next few days and am really not looking forward to the alignment after. I like how these Evol's use the oem alignment bolt holes on top of the triple, but it doesn't appear the bar width is adjustable like Woodcraft.

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On another note, I was planning to order the motion pro clip on alignment tool but it appears the woodcraft clip ons don't have the clearance for this to work. What are you all using as an alignment method when you want to make quick adjustments? Even using Brian Van's method with a screw driver and the oem alignment holes, it took me hours to dial in perfectly.
 

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Man these look really great I like the way their mounted kinda different to most other clip ons on the market.
Once this whole virus thing settles down and shipping isn't such a pain I think I'm gunna order these.
Cheers for sharing that
 

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So my evol clip ons finally turned up the other week and are on the bike was really impressed at the quality of them. There are a couple of issues though with the stock body work. Even with them adjusted all the way back the brake and clutch lever make contact with the stock body work. Currently waiting on a Norton steering stop to see if that makes it better. Also they come with caps on the bars not bar ends so after about 20 mins of riding on the street my hands are numb. I haven't taken the caps of yet but I'm guessing there wouldn't be a thread inside for bar ends. I quite like the look of the r&g bar ends but not sure how I'll be able to make them work if the bars don't have a threaded hole. Any suggestions?
 
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