For those of you having issues with bodywork getting hit. If you just need a little bit of clearance, stick a bit of aluminum on the stops with 3M tape. If you need more, some companies sell aftermarket steering stops. I bought the Graves, it requires you drill a hole in the stock stop. Others make ones you don’t need to drill holes. If it is a commuter bike, make sure you don’t need a ton of steering lock to lock, if you ride a lot with the bike on the steering stops, this mod ain’t for you.
I installed a set of Amazon clip ons. They sit 6mm lower than stock. Although the degree in drop is more than stock, I don't have a measurement for it, but the bar ends sit around 12-15mm lower. They came pre-drilled which saved me some time trying to measure and drill holes for the controls. The only slight problem I see is that the clamps don't sit flush with the fork tubes. There is a 5mm space left over, but there is still plenty of clamping room that was used. Install was easy and since the drop wasn't much, there are no clearance issues with the body. I used a ton of blue thread lock so nothing falls apart while I'm riding. Now I'm just waiting on my weighted bar ends and grips to arrive so I can install them. I haven't gone on a ride yet with them, so I'm not knowledged on the vibrations yet, but they feel really good. Slight more aggressive stance compared to stock.
I installed a set of Amazon clip ons.... The only slight problem I see is that the clamps don't sit flush with the fork tubes. There is a 5mm space left over, but there is still plenty of clamping room that was used.
I had the same issue with the Vortex clip ons. To get around this you move the forks up in the triple clamps until you have 5mm more fork tube sticking out of the top yoke. Then move the clip ons down until they sit flush with the top of the fork caps.
This job is best done with the front wheel out and the front of the bike supported by a front stand that lifts from under the steering stem. Then you can adjust each fork individually in an unloaded and controlled manner.
Alternatively you can do it in a more precarious manner by just backing off the triple clamp bolts slowly and carefully until the forks JUST start to slide when you tap the top yoke with a rubber hammer. But if they slide too far it's a $hit of a job to get them back up again, esp by yourself. Don't ask how I know!
I had the same issue with the Vortex clip ons. To get around this you move the forks up in the triple clamps until you have 5mm more fork tube sticking out of the top yoke. Then move the clip ons down until they sit flush with the top of the fork caps.
This job is best done with the front wheel out and the front of the bike supported by a front stand that lifts from under the steering stem. Then you can adjust each fork individually in an unloaded and controlled manner.
Alternatively you can do it in a more precarious manner by just backing off the triple clamp bolts slowly and carefully until the forks JUST start to slide when you tap the top yoke with a rubber hammer. But if they slide too far it's a $hit of a job to get them back up again, esp by yourself. Don't ask how I know!
I've gotten a lot of feedback saying the same thing about moving the tubes up more. Thing is, my front stand lifts from the forks and not the stem . I'm currently in the process of trying to figure out a method to lower the front that won't give me the issue of the forks completely shooting up lol.
I've gotten a lot of feedback saying the same thing about moving the tubes up more. Thing is, my front stand lifts from the forks and not the stem . I'm currently in the process of trying to figure out a method to lower the front that won't give me the issue of the forks completely shooting up lol.
If your going to continue working on your bike it's probably worth investing in a stem lift stand and then you've got it. Mines only a cheap chinese one and cost like $50USD ish.
The other method I outlined is Ok as long as you dont back the 2nd clamp bolt off too quickly.
So I installed woodcraft clip ons to the 400 last weekend. Install went well, not too hard, just time consuming as it was the first time I took this stuff apart. I had the bars about 15-20 degrees further out than stock, and the risers having about a half an inch gap between the top of the clamp and the bottom of the triple. Much better positioning. Then I installed ASV levers..... bye bye great positioning... the point where the lever spring is, sticks much further out than the stock levers where that spring doesn’t exist. So when I swapped them they contacted the body work so I had to readjust the bars and I lost so much space. I had to move the cla back up to touching the triple and the angle is back to stock.
Not sure if I’ll be keeping the ASVs or not. Anyone else run into this issue with some adjustable levers but have a fix with other levers?
where it’s contacting is on the black plastic body work that goes up to a point by the windscreen. Not sure if you can buy an aftermarket piece there that will eliminate that bump where the contact is being had.
I can get pictures up in a day or so if anyone is confused about the places and parts I’m discussing.
Other than that issue, loving the clip ons and the levers!
I just installed my Woodcraft clip ons and they're perfect. Drastic improvement over stock. At full lock my ASV levers come close to contacting the plastic shroud, but just barely clear. About to upgrade to a Magura HC1 and wondering if that will clear?
Would you be able to measure how far forward the hc1 sits compared to the stock master with lever assembly? I imagine my issue will lie where the lever adjustment knob may contact the trim.
I can’t locate the stock MC right now, maybe some pics of the HC1 will help. The firs pics are with the lever adjustment all the way out, and the last two are 5 clicks in.
I can’t locate the stock MC right now, maybe some pics of the HC1 will help. The firs pics are with the lever adjustment all the way out, and the last two are 5 clicks in
Thanks for this! Just did a rough measurement based on what you posted and I think this is JUST going to clear. Only contact will be at full lock if anything when I have to use the steering lock. Normal day to day should not pose a problem I'd imagine.
Also, how far is 5 clicks in? Were there a lot to go? I have small hands so I wouldnt be surprised if I set it there or even closer. Just wanted a rough idea before I commit. Thanks!
Im looking to replace my scratched right side panel for a nicer one.
Looking for just the right side panel in Ebony, the silver fin, and an upper nose.
What have you got?
Thanks
:)
For anyone interested in replacing stock front foot pegs with rubber coated ones, I just replaced mine with these for $9 shipped on Amazon. Here's a link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017YUYXTW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Description says they're for some Honda...
Hey guys I found these clip ons from China called DI-AH-KA-01 or something like that. They're pretty affordable and I think they look pretty neat.
And they can be installed under the top yoke according to their website.
I'm thinking about getting these and installing them under the top...
Anyone come across or had any good bar end mirrors on their bike that they'd recommend?
I'm fine with ebay cheapies.
I'm going to swap my OEM's out for bar ends, just personal preference.
Has anyone seen these used much? They look alright quality but there's not many photos with it installed on the bike.
There are some nice colour options too. Here's the link if anyone is interested...
A forum community dedicated to Kawasaki Ninja 400 motorcycle owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, classifieds, maintenance, troubleshooting, and more!
GreenWeenie · updated 
mark5211 · updated 
slash3r · updated 
Kiwi Rider · updated 
